Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

As I sat on the beach in Caramoan, I gazed across the water to the island of Catanduanes…I wasn’t sure how I would get there, but I knew I had to explore it. Suddenly, I noticed some tourists relaxing nearby. I started up a conversation with them, and realized that they had come all the way from Canada.

After a while, I learned that after their vacation in Caramoan, they were taking a speedboat across the water to Catanduanes. Not only that, but amazingly, they knew a friend of mine from Manila – she grew up in Catanduanes! Next thing you know, I’m hitching a ride on a thrilling speedboat.

I will never forget the motorbike trip I took around the “enchanted” island of Siquijor in 2013.

Well, I was excited about recreating that trip on the rugged island of Catanduanes. Photo adventures like these are a big part of why I came to the Philippines in the first place!

What I didn’t realize is that this island is much, much bigger than Siquijor. My 2 day trip ended up taking 5, and I’ll never forget it!

Exploring Catanduanes

A part of the Bicol region in the eastern Philippines, Catanduanes used to be part of Albay, and is said to be named after the “tandu” or giant click beetles that can be found flying around the area at night.

I put my feelers out to my friends and managed to locate a motorbike I could borrow on arrival. Catanduanes is rugged; there are still remote sections with no paved roads, and for me, it made my journey that much more exciting. My trip began in San Andres…

Sto. Domingo River

Sto. Domingo River is also known as Pajo River, and is a place where you can find floating huts and local children swimming in the fresh water. The water was awarded cleanest in Bicol back in 1999. I snapped this photo from a bridge that crosses over the river.

You don’t hear much about the waterfalls of Catanduanes, but when I looked at the tourist map, I could see that they were EVERYWHERE! I wanted to visit all of them, but there really were too many.

Hicming Falls

Hicming Falls isn’t too well known, but it was quite impressive! You can reach it via a short hike from the village of Hicming, near Sto. Domingo.

Trike drivers may be able to take you there. This brief, beautiful hike up a scenic creek bed will reward you with a gushing, 3-tier waterfall at the end.

There are many smaller falls and tranquil pools on the way up…This really was one of my favorite waterfalls in Catanduanes, and I’m surprised it’s not more publicized.

I guess the lack of crowds and development is what I liked most about it, though. For now, hopefully these falls can remain our little secret…

Luyang Cave in San Andres

Just off the highway is impressive Luyang Cave(see photo). This vast, limestone cave is quite accessible, and fascinating to explore. You can bring your own flashlight and do a DIY walkthrough tour, but just be careful, because the path can be very slippery.

There is a tragic story attached to Luyang Cave. Reportedly, all the locals hid in the cave when the Moro invaders arrived. They would carefully send a woman out to fetch water when needed, but eventually her luck ran out. She was spotted returning to the cave, and she gave away their hiding spot.

Knowing that they would all meet their demise at the hands of the Moros, the locals quickly piled up sticks and branches at the entrance to the cave.

When they realized that wasn’t enough to protect themselves, as a last resort, they lit the branches on fire…hoping that the flames would deter the pirates.

Sadly, the wind changed directions, and filled their cave with thick, black smoke. They could not breathe, and there were no survivors.

Mamangal Beach

Mamangal Beach, can be found in barangay Balite, Virac. It’s one of the nicest beaches I came across in Catanduanes. However, to be honest, I was more focused on waterfalls than beaches, so keep that in mind:) Roads are a bit rough to get here, and there is an entry fee upon arrival. Many thanks to Che and the Gurrobat family for the assistance getting here! Che’s blog is called Backpacking Pilipinas.

From my research, some other popular beaches are Twin Rocks Resort Beach, Marilima Beach, Batag Beach…all within Virac. Sakahon Beach is nice as well, in Bato.

For a real off-the-beaten-path Catanduanes adventure (and the most stunning beach of all), check my Palumbanes Island Blog.

Snorkeling at Agojo Marine Park and Sanctuary

I went exactly where they told me to and explored for over an hour. Unfortunately there wasn’t much to see. After being protected for 20 years, there should be much more coral regrowth here. It’s mostly dead still, and there aren’t a whole lot of fish. Either people are sneaking in to do dynamite / cyanide fishing still, or somehow there are other environmental factors at work.

The best part of Agojo for me was actually the fascinating mangrove trees, as you can see pictured here..

I was told that Agojo was the best place to snorkel and see corals in Catanduanes…sadly, this was not my experience. The bantay dagat (security guards for the marine life)  were not able to take me out in the boat, because it was broken. However, they told me I could just swim out a few hundred yards in the shallow water to gosnorkeling. Btw, if you are curious, I took these photos with my TG4 underwater camera.

Note: The photo of this beautiful coral reef was actually taken in Catanduanes also, but it was taken north of Agojo, at a random (unprotected) spot I pulled my motorbike over and decided to explore.

I really was snorkeling in the middle of nowhere, and I guess that explains why there were still corals and fish.

I hope the Local Government Units will look into this, because Catanduanes has some beautiful corals and marine life that could really draw tourists if preserved and protected.

Hiyop Point – Pandan

In the far northwest part of the island, you can find the rolling green hills and vistas of Hiyop Point. Below are more various photos from my ride along the west side of the island.

Carangyan Resort is near here, but it’s a bit pricey for being so provincial. The couple who runs it is very nice, and the food is quite good, though. It might be worth stopping by for lunch, if nothing else.

One thing I loved seeing around Catanduanes was all the colorful buildings and churches…this pink church was a first for me!

(continued below)

Catanduanes is known for its production of Tiger Grass, or Sugbo, as it is known locally. It’s used to make brooms. Also produced here is the strong natural fiber called Abaca, (Manila Hemp).

“The Happy Island”

Catanduanes was most memorable to me because of the hospitality of the people I met along the way. Known as “The Happy Island”, I felt it from the moment I arrived.

Due to the plenty of roadside photo breaks and rough roads, my trip took longer than expected, and I was forced to spend an unplanned night in barangay Tokio, Pandan. A local introduced me to the barangay captain, a very nice lady by the name of Mrs. Bernacer.

After arranging a local guide to bring me to the nearby waterfall for a swim (see above), Mrs. Bernacer was so kind to prepare a dinner for me. Her family even made room in their home, so that I could rest before continuing my journey in the morning! Incredibly hospitable, and I appreciated it.

I also stopped at the School of Fisheries in Caramoran. I met many friendly people there.

Snorkeling in Soboc, Viga

What an unexpected surprise! There are some fascinating coral formations underwater there in Soboc. I was so happy to see that much of it has been preserved.

I saw quite a few clownfish, a lionfish, and a variety of other marine life such as colorful clams and urchins. Remember to bring your own snorkel, mask, and fins! As always, I used my Olympus TG-4 underwater camera.

Big thanks to my local guide Mathew Barceta, and also to a local mechanic – kuya Rey. My motorbike was having problems when I arrived, and he quickly repaired it for only the cost of parts! Kuya Rey and the rest of the guys there were very kind. I do hope to return to Catanduanes someday and repay their kindness.

Viga and Bagamanok – The Countryside

This was particularly beautiful stretch of the trip. I loved seeing the town marker they put up in Bagamanok – reminiscent of the Holywood sign:) I also came across a beautiful cemetery where I stopped and took some photos. The weather was just perfect.

I snapped this photo of a few carabaos (water buffaloes) cooling off in a creek.

If you’re going north to Viga from Virac (via the central route), check out Cathy’s Spring Resortalong the way.

There is a famous rock formation here near the beach. It’s called “Boto ni Kurakog“, which translates to “Kurakog’s penis“. Yes, you read that correctly.

Legend says that a sleeping giant on the beach was washed out to sea. Now he rests underwater on his back, with 5 meters of his…ummm…”manhood” rising up out of the water. Catanduanes…the “happy island” indeed. Haha.

Nahulugan Falls

Nahulugan Falls is a great place to take pictures, and very much worth the visit! You can take a trike all the way there, unlike Hicming Falls, where you have to hike a bit.

Nahulugan is in the town of Gigmoto, where I found a lot of really good people.

First, I stopped to leave my things at the local police department, because I thought I needed to hike to get to the falls, and my bag is quite heavy.

The officers were very friendly, and I really got the sense that I could trust them. I was right!

Unfortunately, on the way to the falls, my motorbike broke down once again. I was far from any ATM, and I wasn’t sure what to do.

Eventually a very nice man named Manny came to my aid, and not only took me to Nahulugan Falls, but also helped me get my motorbike repaired afterward…without asking for anything in return.

Kuya Manny and family, if you’re reading this, thanks for helping me in my time of need! Proving yet again that Catanduanes really is the “happy” and friendly island…

Balacay Point

Further south in Baras, I came across Balacay Point. Here you can find iconic, sweeping views of the coastline and small islands of Catanduanes & Pacific Ocean. Just be careful on the rocky dirt road going up…it was quite rough when I was there…the vista at the top is worth it, though!

Surfing in Puraran – Baras

Catanduanes is home to Bicol’s most famous surf spot, known as Puraran. This is a great place to learn, or just relax and enjoy the beach. I didn’t try surfing here, but I hope to learn soon! Balacay Point is only a few kilometers from here, and you can see Puraran Beach from the viewpoint.

Bato Church

St. John the Baptist Church can be found in the town of Bato. It is also known as “Bato Church“. Can you believe it was originally built from wood in the late 1500s? Rebuilding with stone materials began in 1830. The church has withstood the test of time ever since.

Maribina Falls

Nearby Maribina Falls (also in Bato) is the most well known and accessible of all the waterfalls on the island.

This is a great place to swim, relax, or have a picnic.

This mulit-tiered waterfall gets its name from the 2 surrounding neighborhoods, orbarangays:

The combination of Marinawa andBinanwahan = “Maribina”.

Virac Cathedral

Virac Cathedral is also known as “the Roman Catholic Diocese of Virac”.

It is located right in the heart of Virac, and is one of the most prominent landmarks.

Virac Cathedral is only a few decades old, but it was built over an older parish.

Virac is the largest city and capital of Catanduanes. I loved the vibrant energy here.

On a Friday night, I wandered over to the plaza and found many kids practicing everything from skateboarding, to dance routines, to their marching band songs.

I’m glad the city is supportive of this.

I didn’t get to try many restaurants in Virac, but I did find a pizza place that I LOVED! It’s called “Carrie’s Pizza“, and it really is a great value. The pizza was quite good for the price, and the service can’t be beat. Check it out!

Hotels & Guest Houses

Marem Pension House, Virac  – A beautiful and very affordable place to stay.  It has been operating for years, and is quite well maintained.  You can explore options at Marem Pension House HERE

Rackdell Inn, Virac – Also good for the budget-minded, and close to Jollibee! Haha. +63 908 885 0569

Catanduanes Midtown Inn (Virac)  – For a bit more money…you can take a big step up with the Midtown Inn. Still a great value! You can explore options at Catanduanes Midtown Inn HERE

Pacific Surfer’s Paradise Beach Resort, Puraran – This was my favorite option in Puraran. Service was great + accommodations / food were a good value. You can explore options atPacific Surfer’s Paradise Beach Resort HERE

More options HERE

How To Get To Catanduanes

The island can be reached by direct flight to from Manila to Virac, or overnight bus to Tabaco Port, where you can catch a 3 hour ferry to Virac. Once there, you should be able to take a bus to Puraran and other destinations. If not, you may have to rent a trike or van for the whole day, and it could be quite pricey.

Big thanks to Carmel Bonifacio and the Catanduanes tourism office in Virac! The tourism brochures I was provided with were well-designed, very professional, and quite useful. The museum above the office is worth seeing, too! Many thanks to Mayleine Olfindo, and all the good, humble people of “The Happy Island”! Thanks for reminding me why I fell in love with the Philippines in the first place.

Hope you enjoyed my photos & adventure.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Like my page to follow along with me:)  – Nathan

I use Agoda to book my rooms online, check it out below! – Nathan Allen

Related blogs:

Palumbanes Islands – The Grand Adventure Nobody’s Talking About

Life Goals: Island-Hopping in Caramoan

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Catanduanes By Motorbike – Exploring a Rugged, Scenic Beauty appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

My First Glimpse of the San Juanico Bridge

The motorbike for this trip was generously provided by Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban, Leyte. Being just across the water from Samar, this gave me the chance to ride across the famous San Juanico Bridge. It snakes its way across the sea, connecting the 2 giant islands. Elegant and picturesque, it’s also the longest of its kind in the Philippines.

I rode north and thought I’d easily make it to Calbayog City before sunset. Wrong. By the time I finally did arrive, I was tired, hungry, and quite sore from the ride. The problem was, the city was in chaos. There was no power anywhere, and it was rush hour…so there were cars, jeeps, trikes, and people everywhere.

An Earthquake Left Us in the Dark

I was too hungry to think straight. I stopped at a bank to ask how to get to a hotel I read about. The guard gave directions, and then explained that there was no electricity because of a big earthquake in Leyte, where I just came from. The entire region (both huge islands) was pitch black. Crazy. I rode right through it – I didn’t feel a thing.

Unfortunately my hotel was booked, because everybody was clamoring for rooms with electricity (some hotels had generators). I lucked out and got the last room at a clean, modern place called Meaco Hotel. I really needed it. Staff was great, and I was lucky to find some tasty Bicolano food next door at an eatery. They were nice, too. I’m going to like Samar, I thought to myself.

Samar Landscapes

The next morning, I was back on the road…heading to Bangon and Tarangban Falls, about an hour away. The clouds slowly began to clear, and I parked the bike for a quick photo shoot. Nice bike, huh? It’s a Yamaha NMAX 155cc. Probably the most comfortable scooter you will ever ride…

My Filipino friends laugh when I tell them how much I love banana trees. We just don’t have anything like these back home in California! They look so lush and tropical to me. I particularly loved this vista looking out to some islands in the sea.

I didn’t know it, but by the time I took this picture, I had already missed the turn for Bangon Falls. This colorful waterway full of fishing boats was located about 2kms north of where I needed to be.

I guess this was some sort of temporary wooden bridge, but I wanted to take a photo to show you how rough the roads can be. There were construction sites and one-lane detours everywhere! Anyhow, a huge shipping truck came around the corner behind me, so I had to jump back on the bike and and get out of the way pretty quick! Haha.

That Time Nathan Allen Broke Down in Allen, Samar

Ever since I looked at a map of northern Samar and noticed a town called “Allen” (my family name), I knew I had to visit it. Well, right as I pulled in to town, something tried to keep me there, because my brand new motorbike wouldn’t start anymore! The locals pointed to a vulcanizing / mechanic shop up the road, so I pushed the bike there. 

The guys there were nice and helpful. Soon, we had attracted the attention of some curious onlookers. At first I thought something was wrong with the safety feature that’s cuts the engine when the side stand is down…it turns out it was super simple – the battery cable had just come loose! Still, I gave kuya a bit of money for his help. He was reluctant to accept, but I insisted. 

Some of the others were very kind to lead me to the Municipal Hall, where I hoped to find more information about the town of Allen.

Some very enthusiastic employees greeted me at the Municipal Hall. They were excited, and convinced that I must be related to the famous Allen. Haha. It turns out the town was named after Major General Henry Tureman Allen, who was Military Governor of Leyte in 1901. Similar to the Lewis and Clark expedition, he was also famous for having explored over 2,000kms of Alaskan wilderness in the 1880s.

Anyhow, no relation to me (that I know of)…but a good experience in the town of Allen anyhow. Thanks, guys!

As I continued east from Allen, I came across this beautiful “floating” native village. I believe it was near San Jose, in northern Samar.

An Encounter in a Cemetery

I also stopped to take photos of a beautiful old cemetery tucked away in the jungle. There was nobody around, and I ventured inside as the afternoon sun started fading. I lost track of my surroundings, as I was super focused on getting the best shots in the challenging light.

Suddenly I noticed a small figure out of the corner of my eye. I looked up and saw a small head disappear behind a tree. Trying to not show any fear, I walked confidently over to the tree and looked behind it…but there was nothing there.

Strange. I was positive I had seen it. I nervously took a few more shots on my way out, then prepared to leave by the side of the road. Just before I got on the motorbike, I saw a young boy watching me from the gravestones. I smiled and waived as I rode away…he waived back. I wonder what his story is.

Anything Could Cross the Highway: Kids, Chickens, Water Buffalo…Wait. Airplanes??

I was completely exhausted by the time I started nearing Catarman. It seemed like a repeat of the chaos in Calbayog…dark city streets full of people and traffic…and at one point all the vehicles were funneled through a small hole in a giant wall. Suddenly it opened back up to a huge, dark expanse, with pavement stretching in every direction. It was so odd. It almost seemed…like…the road was crossing a giant airplane runway.

Well, today on a Google Satellite Map, I confirmed that the road does in fact cross the runway of Catarman National Airport!  Haha. I realized that riding a motorbike on an airplane runway is probably a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Anyhow, hotels were all booked once again, but I was lucky to find a cheap room at Mijares Hotel, tucked away on a side street. Had to deal with the heat when the generator cycled off every few hours, but that’s life in the provinces. I was already used to it. In the morning I found an eatery nearby called Downtown Silog…

A Toasted Siopao Discovery in Catarman

There are some foods that I really love in the Philippines. One is Emong’s Malunggay Pandesal (Moringa leaf bread). The other is Toasted Siopao, which I tried in Naga City for the first time. I was surprised to see it served here at Downtown Silog, and this version is pretty different. It’s delicious, sweet like a doughnut…and you HAVE TO TRY IT.

A Yamaha Dealer – Right When You Need One

How lucky is this? Right as I turned onto the road to Calbayog, the “change oil” light came on. I promised to take good care of this sleek motorbike, but I wasn’t sure where I could find a trustworthy shop way out here. BOOM. I literally looked up and saw a Yamaha Dealership & Service Center right across the street.

The owner of Haven’s Transport uses this bike personally, and he really customized it. The guys at the shop were really drooling over it. A resort owner in Leyte loved it so much that he joked he would steal it in the middle of the night. Haha.  Anyway, this team got the job done right…and right away. I really appreciated that.

N.P.A. Ambush?

The “shortcut” road to Calbayog was much more remote than I thought it would be. It really took me into the hills and countryside. Soon, I started seeing these graffiti-type signs on the side of the road. They were painted on old wooden planks, and written in the local dialect. Littered with exclamation points, the only part I could understand was “NPA…AMBUSH!!!“

The NPA “National People’s Army” is a rebel group who hide in the mountains. I think they’re considered terrorists by the government. Anyway, these signs were clearly meant for people on the road, and each one seemed to get more and more serious as I kept riding. I don’t ever feel unsafe in the Philippines, but I started to wonder if there was something I didn’t know about this little road…

In the end, it was fine. I’m not sure if it’s true, but somebody told me that those signs were just the community trying to convince the rebels to come out from the hills and give themselves up. Anyhow, the road opened back up, and I got finally made it to Bangon Falls in Calbayog. Incredible place, the link to that blog post is at the bottom of this page…

I continued south after photographing the waterfalls. It was getting late (and raining, of course), so I stopped in Calbayog for an overnight at a place called Marju Krisel Hotel and Resort. There was quite a party going on there! So many families eating, drinking, and swimming in the pool. My room was super cheap, I was surprised. https://lap.lazada.com/banner/dynamic.php?banner_id=59eaefa8a1213&theme=1&p=1

The next day, I hoped to make it all the way to the coastal town of Catbalogan. On my way there, I stopped at a restaurant called Marcial’s Grille. This was recommended to me by an American guy who lives in Samar. They serve one of the best pork liempo (belly) I have ever tried!

Photos From Catbalogan

I came across these friendly locals when I pulled the motorbike over to take photos of Buri Island, out at sea.

Lined with huts and fishing boats, this “floating village” is on the outskirts of Catbalogan, near the Bus Interchange. After this, I explored Buri Island a bit, then continued on to Catbalogan City proper.  There, I was able to visit the tourist center and also meet with Mr. Joni Bonafacio, Samar’s resident cavemaster. He runs an outdoor / adventure shop called Trexplore.

Seeing all his Samar photos and expeditions on the walls, it was pretty clear that I barely even scratched the surface on my trip. Great guy, I enjoyed meeting him. Being that it’s one of Samar’s claims to fame, I do hope to try caving on my next trip. A far-flung place I was sad to miss was Pinipisikan Falls and Sulpan Cave. 

Rice Field Landscapes in Paranas

One my way south to Marabut, I came across these beautiful rice paddies in Paranas. It’s been my dream to see the famous Banaue Rice Terraces at a vibrant, early stage like this. Instead, I always seem to end up there near harvest time, when the greens turn to brown. Anyhow, quite a picturesque little scene on the side of the road.

Saob Cave in Basey (Famous For Banig)

This cave area features the famous weavers who popularized banig, or Ticog Grass floormats. It’s a peaceful place, and as you can see, nobody was around when I explored the cave in the afternoon. I suppose it made the experience that much more surreal.

Marabut’s Fascinating Limestone Landscapes

This was the highlight of my trip around Samar. These limestone rock formations and cliffs give the area a feel similar to El Nido. I absolutely loved it here.

It still has it’s own character, though. To be honest, I’m shocked that I didn’t hear more about this place sooner. I guess it’s not as famous as northern Palawan because it doesn’t have white sand beaches. As a photographer / adventurer though, it has everything I’m after. Definitely a place I want to come back and explore more.

You can see more of Marabut’s exotic limestone rock formations in my Caluwayan Beach Resort Post. I loved staying there.

How To Get To Samar

Domestic flights to Calbayog City depart from Manila and Cebu. I think Cebu Pacific even flies to Catarman, the airport with a highway running through it! Haha.

You can also take a page from my playbook – fly to Tacloban and rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s …and start an adventure of your own! The owner Rhoel is a great guy.

Where to Stay

Definitely check out Caluwayan Beach Resort, or for Calbayog City, check out  the options below:

Thanks for seeing this post through to the end…I know it was a long one! On this ride I probably covered 2,000kms through Leyte and Samar. Hard to believe. By the way, if you try caving in Samar, please send me your pictures!

Also be sure to check out more of my posts from Samar below…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Samar, Philippines

Bangon & Tarangban Falls – Calbayog, Samar

The Exotic Charm of Caluwayan Beach Resort – Marabut, Samar

Social Media

The post SAMAR By Motorbike – An Epic, Solo Road Trip in the Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.