By Nathan Allen

Antique Province – “Where The Mountains Meet The Sea”

(Scroll down if you want to go directly to Antique hotels and attractions)

About a year ago I was researching new places to explore in the Philippines.  I came across a photo of Filipino blogger Melo Villareal “cooking” in giant pot. It was in a little-known province called Antique, and from then on, I knew I had to see this place for myself!

Found south of Boracay on the western side of Panay Island, the sleepy province of Antique provides many opportunities for adventure and relaxation – and all off the beaten path. 

While the province has some pretty good beaches, that’s not where Antique really shines – it’s more about the lush mountains, rice fields, cascading waterfalls, and warm smiles from the people that call it home. 

Oh yeah, that, and the unique experience of being “cooked” in a hot KAWA bath!  In truth, it’s very relaxing after a good hike and chilly swim in Bugtong Bato Falls:)

 (Some of my favorite photos from Antique)

One of my favorite things about Antique is that it spans the the whole west coast of Panay island, so there are so many opportunities to photograph beautiful sunsets.  Walking barefoot in the mud with a stunning sunset over the rice paddies – that was was something I’ll never forget!  I also loved how affordable food and accommodations were, and the fact that for some reason, mosquitoes in Antique don’t find me very delicious!  Ohh how I loved that…anyhow, here is the story of Antique and I…

“Kkkruhayyyy!!!” my local guide Flord enthusiastically yells out upon my arrival.  The language here is called “Kinaray-a”, and kruhay means welcome. 

Then he handed me a packed schedule of activities for the next three days of filming.  Wait…filming? 

It turns out ABS CBN’s “Rated K” crew was covering Antique   on the same weekend, and they wanted to use footage of me exploring as well.  I was hesitant at first, but life is like a river, I say…so you just go with the flow. 

The next morning we began touring the province to meet and dine with many of the provincial mayors.  I want to thank all of them for their warmth and hospitality!  We were even treated to a musical performance in one of their homes.

Later we attended a lively singing performance called “Istorya-Kanta Kinaray-a”.  I was so happy that these two talented singers are working hard to promote and preserve the local Karay-a culture.  The colorful young dancers added a nice dimension to the experience as well. 

Kinaray-a is a fascinating language – and it’s quite descriptive!  One very interesting example is how they have 3 different names for male and female genitalia – depending on the age and development stage of the person in question!  Kinaray-a is also one of the only Filipino languages I know of that has uses a “schwa” vowel sound.  An example is the Cebuano word ‘hubog’, which in Kinaray-a would be pronounced “hubug” – except the “u” is pronounced like the English words “hug” or “bug”. 

Kayaking and Hiking To Bugtong Bato Falls

Tibiao is known for its exciting eco-adventure park.  The Tibiao River offers kayaking at all skill levels.  After a brief kayaking session, I took a swim in the river to cool off.  Then I explored the surrounding area a bit and met some very friendly locals.

After all the kayaking footage was finished, we began the beautiful, brief trek to Bugtong Bato Falls. 

The trail starts in the village of Tuno, where our presence cause many curious smiles.  The scenery on the way to the falls was just stunning. Shown here are some rice terraces we passed along the way. Note: There are some other beautiful rice terraces that I didn’t have a chance to explore. Ask the locals!

We arrived at the falls, but had lunch  waiting for us at Bugtong Bato Falls Inn (formerly Peter’s Lodge).  I was so happy to finally have good Filipino food after being away in the States for so long! 

Afterward, they filmed members of our group repelling down the falls, and I took a swim in the chilly water.  Then I was finally ready for a soak in the hot kawa!  What a day – and what a beautiful place!

Boat Trip To Malalison Island

Malalison (also known as Mararison) island is part of Culasi, and is just a short boat ride away. 

We boarded the boat before sunrise, and first made our way toward far away Seco Island (in the process of being rehabilitated). 

We hit some rain and rough water on the way.  I fell asleep, but when I woke up, the skies had cleared up and the perfectly calm water looked like glass! 

To add to the magic of the moment, flying fish began to shoot out of the water and soar through the sky – I’ve never seen them before!

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-Nathan

There are a few pretty good snorkeling sections with corals and fish.  I saw a very large puffer fish, some clownfish, and a few lionfish, which was a first for me.   Ask the locals where the best places to snorkel are.  You will need to bring your own snorkel, mask, and fins.

The children of Malalison island (Culasi) are just adorable.  They love to sing – and in fact prepared a special Karay-a (local language)  version of the Frozen song “Let It Go” for us!  A few of them took me on a hike over the of of the island. If you are familiar with Batanes island, Malalison has dry, grassy hills that are a bit similar.  It seems quite uncharacteristic for this region of the Philippines. 

On the hike, I also noticed “pitcher plants“, which are fascinating insect-eating plants!  Since I was a kid, I always wanted to see one in real life.  I really loved the experience of being on this humble little island.

Again, Malalison Island can be reached via a brief boat trip from Culasi.  Ask the boat men on the beach, or use the contact info mentioned later.

Lambaklad Fishing in Tibiao

I almost skipped Lambaklad fishing, but I’m so glad I didn’t…just look at what an incredible experience this was! 

The name Lambaklad come from the word for “net” (lambat) and “fish corral” (baklad). 

You can join the fisherman very early in the morning, or at 3pm in the afternoon. 

The tradition is to leave your tsinelas (flip flops) on the beach, wash your feet in the water, then board the giant bamboo raft.  e words lambat (net) and baklad (fish corral).

As the name suggests, there is a large corral and net under the water.  As far as I know, the fisherman slowly pull the net in, which brings the raft toward the fish, and pushes them into net. 

Afterward, the fisherman take their share, and the rest is bought after a negotiation.  I loved witnessing this!

Tibiao Fish Spa – Don’t forget to “feed” the fish at Tibiao Fish Spa afterward!  It is directly across the street from the beach entrance for Lambaklad fishing.  I have tried a few different fish spas now, but the experience here is much better.  The fish are not so timid, and they will really nibble away at your feet!  It tickles at first, but I got used to it very quickly.  If you are brave enough to dip your feet into the pool with the bigger fish, my advice is to not keep them in too long:) 

Trekking to Igpasungaw Falls in Sebaste

I am very independent, and when I was told that I would have guides accompanying me to Igpasungaw Falls in Sebaste, I was a bit frustrated.  

However, this hike was MUCH more challenging and confusing than I thought, so the guides were actually very much appreciated!  Go to the municipal hall in Sebaste to inquire about guides to this incredible place. 

I learned that Antique got its name from “hantik“, which is the word for the black ants which can be found on Panay. Island  Here at the falls, I put my hand down and was bitten by one! I always knew red ants bite, but I’ve never heard of black ants that do as well!  You learn something every day, they say:)

Brick & Pottery Making in Barangay Bandoja

Later I was fortunate to visit a brick making facility, and not only did I see where the clay was excavated from, but also the giant kiln which bakes the handmade bricks.   Nearby I attended a pottery demonstration as well.  You could see the fascination in her grandson’s eyes as she showed us the age-old tradition of this barangay. 

The Colorful Binirayan Festival – Dec 28th through the 30th

On a last-minute trip to Nogas island in southern Antique, I was sidetracked by bad weather and instead ended up at the colorful Binirayan Festival.  What an experience!  This was a perfect reminder that “when one door closes, another opens”.

All the cities in the province came together to compete in the capital, San Jose.  While I was quite impressed with all of the performances (I only witnessed 6, to be fair), two really caught my attention.  Caluya and Sibalom. 

Wow, they really went all out!  I was thankful to have a great view to take photos from the stage.  I was seated next to the governor, and they announced that “I Dreamed Of This” was visiting.  What an honor to be there.  This festival is technically 29 days long, because you know, it really is more fun in the Philippines!

Exploring and Snorkeling Nogas Island – Anini-y, Antique

After the festival, I finally had a chance to visit Nogas island in southern Antique.  Thanks to the local tourism officer, Mrs. Karen, I explored the famous “Kalachuchi”  flower walkway and lighthouse at the end.  The island has kubos (beach huts) you can rent, but no place to eat, sleep, or buy snacks. 

We hiked to the opposite end of the island, and on the way, experienced a fascinating rubber tree, along with unique mangrove forests along the shore. 

The snorkeling and diving here is quite underrated if you ask me!  I recommend taking a trip with The Divehouse – you can depart from the mainland in Anini-y.  There is more info about this below in the “Where To Stay” section. 

San Jose’s “Purple House” & Hanging With The Locals

What a unique “I Dreamed Of This” experience!  To say that Mrs. Violetta loves the color purple is an understatement.   She has decorated her entire house (and family) in the color purple! 

She is a very sweet lady, and once filming was finished, we were again treated to a nice meal (with purple snacks!)  Even the bedrooms, furniture, and kitchen utensils were purple! I felt like I was Alice In Wonderland. 

While here, I also had a chance to explore the surrounding barangay (neighborhood)  People were so curious to see me taking photos on the side of the road!  It was truly an unforgettable experience  to be immersed in the day-to-day life of Antiqueños! 

Where To Stay – Antique Hotels and Inns

Phaidon Beach Resort

If you are looking for a beach resort in Antique, Phaidon in Pandan is the #1 recommendation online.  Great for couples, divers, or just those looking for a peaceful alternative to the crowds of Boracay.  Staff is gracious, wifi is good, and breakfast is included.  Your money goes further in Antique. 

Book Phaidon Beach Resort HERE (Agoda) or for Booking.com, click HERE

Kayak Inn

This cheaper and more “native” alternative is located directly on the Tibiao River, and has a view of the rice fields as well.  It is the original location of the “kawa” bath, and is great for a photo op. 

Book Kayak Inn HERE

Kasa Raya Traveller’s Inn & Resto

Kasa Raya is a great budget option in Tibiao, and they recently even added aircon rooms.  Conveniently located on the main road where the junction to Tuno and Bugtong Bato Falls is.  There is a Petron station attached to the inn.  The falls are just 5km away from here.

I have to be honest, I am friends with the nice little family that runs it, but you can feel better knowing that I became friends with them by staying here:)

I like the feel that the bamboo construction gives the place.  The restaurant has a modest but solid menu with some great value options, and the budget rooms even come with breakfast! 

I was particularly impressed by the lechon manok and fried chicken.  They also serve a good brewed coffee.  The best part is that you can enjoy your meal overlooking the rice fields out back.

You can contact the owner Alex by phone here: 09175247875  I believe Kasa Raya is also listed on airbnb.com. Please say hi for me, and tell him I sent you…Alex also gives incredible personalized tours around Antique & Panay!

Zipline Inn and Bugtong Bato Falls Inn

The first photo is from Zipline Inn, which offers native-style rooms in a beautiful setting.  Zipline Inn is located on the road before you get to Tuno.  Yes, there is an actual zipline, but I’m not sure if it’s currently operating.  The rest of the photos are from Bugtong Bato Falls Inn – which is a bit more adventurous, as you have to hike in a bit to get there.  Don’t worry, it’s a mild 20 minute trek:)  Nearby the falls, they have a beautiful setting for a meal or hot kawa bath – and they have budget options as well!

The rest of the photos are from Bugtong Bato Falls Inn – which is a bit more adventurous, as you have to hike in a bit to get there.  Don’t worry, it’s a mild 20 minute trek:)  Nearby the falls, they have a beautiful setting for a meal or hot kawa bath – and they have budget options as well!

Dalaag Resort and Campsite, Dao

Dalaag Resort and Campsite is a complex under development, but the 800 square meter pool (yes, you read that correctly) and 3-story water slide is open now.  You can also rent the kubos (huts) for the day or evening.  There are many more exciting plans for this property, including the possibility of an obstacle course, zip line, and even fishing facilities!

The Divehouse – Anini-y

The Divehouse is rustic resort on the beach has been constructed in large part from reclaimed wood from old ships and sailing vessels.  I really got a sense of history from all the bits and pieces that comprise the beams and railings of the property.  I quite enjoyed taking photos of everything. 

The owner “Boy” and his cast of characters here are entertaining as well.  They are very welcoming, and a lot of fun.  The place is definitely more on the rustic side, and if you ask me, that’s what’s so charming about it – don’t come expecting an updated resort with a modern design.  You can stay overnight with all meals and 3-4 dives included.  In my opinion, Anini-y is an underrated snorkeling and diving destination!  Ask the staff where the most beautiful corals are.

There is a nice veranda with a hammock and reliable wifi if you want to stay in and relax.  Great company and freshly prepared meals cooked over an open flame – this is what it’s all about.  Also make sure to witness the locals pulling the giant nets in right from the shore – it’s called “sahid” fishing!

How To Get To Antique – Contact Info & Tours

Antique province can be reached by bus or van from Kalibo or Caticlan airports, and also by bus or van from Iloilo city.  Depending on where you are going, it can be anywhere from a 2 hour to 5 hour trip.

If you have time and are very adventurous, the region can be explored independently, and you can contact Karmila Dimamay if you need any assistance.  I recommend connecting with Alex @ Kasa Raya Traveller’s Inn for tours. He is focused on providing excellent environmentally conscious tours, and he is a great guy. Alex can be reached at phone # 09175247875

Where To Eat in Antique

• Kasa Raya Traveller’s Inn and Resto (Tibiao) – Please see the listing above.  They have some delicious and affordable options here.

• The Green Mug Coffee shop (Tibiao) – I love this place, because they have great coffee – and it’s very reasonably priced!   I never understood why “real” coffee is so expensive in the Philippines – a coffee growing country!  Haha.  Anyhow, they have Americanos for 30 pesos, and lattes for just 50.  Some very affordable food options as well!  Hidden away location, so you may have to ask the local trike drivers. 

• Tibiao Bakery – I’ve seen these around the island of Panay, but of course, the first one can be found here in Tibiao.  Worth stopping by for pastries and snacks!

• Mamma Mia Pizzeria (Tibiao) – One of the owners is Italian I hear, so the ingredients are legit.  The pizza is pretty good, but it’s a bit pricey for the region.  The pasta was very good!

• Island Choice (Culasi) – I had a very affordable pizza here, and for the money, I was quite impressed!  Also tried a buko shake, and that was good as well.  Great prices and friendly service.  Located in the city center. 

(Tip:  I think there is an international ATM in San Jose (BPI, I believe), but as far as I know, there are no others around Antique. You might want to get cash in Iloilo, Caticlan, or Boracay if you are a foreigner)

Goodbye, Antique – My Home Away From Home

I felt so comfortable there, and I have a feeling I’ll be returning over the years.  I’d like to thank Flord + Katahum, Karmila Dimamay, and Alex de Moscoso+family for all the hospitality and help during my stay.  Like I mentioned at the start, while there are a few decent resorts here, this province is really great for the off-the-beaten-path adventures – the ones who want to roll up their sleeves and get dirty trekking to a stunning waterfall, or be invited to an impromptu dinner with a rice farmer and his family.  

Antique may have been over-hyped a bit in the past, but as long you’re realistic about what to expect, I think you’ll love it.  If you go and experience some of my recommendations, please give me your feedback! I will update info in my listing if needed. 

Thank you for an incredible, unforgettable experience, Antique.

Hope to see you again soon!

 Like the “I Dreamed Of This” page below to follow along.

– Nathan Allen

The post Explore Antique, Philippines – The Land of Cool Waterfalls and Hot Kawa Baths appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

How Do They Look?

Well, I think most sane people would agree that the Olukai Ohanas are much more pleasing to the eye. They are low profile, sleek, and stylish.

The Oofos, on the other hand, are marketed as orthopedic or “recovery” thongs.

Yes, they look just as bulky and “Croc-y” as you would imagine, though I guess the design could be worse.

Still fugly enough to warrant me making a few jokes: “I just bought some rubber shoes, and now I’m going to start watching the Weather Channel and yelling at neighborhood kids to get off my lawn.”

I felt like I was wearing paddles on my feet, and not many reviews mention this, but the soles are thick. If you’re a bit short, you will love the 1+ inch of lift. I am already awkwardly tall, so I would prefer less “help” in this department. Haha.

Footbed & Sole Traction

Olukai Ohanas

Again, the Olukai Ohana sandals have been designed for water and beaches…even trekking. The grip on the soles is fantastic. I read some reviews about the inside footbed being a bit slippery when wet, but I ordered the Olukai Ohana Koa sandals (updated model?), and if this was a problem before, it’s definitely not now. Perfect grip when wet.

Oofos

The Oofos are a different story. The footbed is slick when wet, and the soles can be incredibly slippery on smooth, wet surfaces. Every time it rained I had to step ever so gingerly. My muddy jungle hikes were challenging, to say the least.

In the city, one day a downpour came out of nowhere, and I rushed the last few steps to the elevator in my building. I hit a patch of wet cement and BAM. I was on the ground. No injuries, luckily…and even though my fall put a LOT of pressure on the Oofos toe strap, the material did not break. This was after a full year of use.

That was impressive. Speaking of long lasting…

Durability

Oofos

As mentioned, I wore my Oofos for a full year before they finally gave out. Those familiar with my lifestyle know that I am constantly on the move. I hike in the tropics a LOT, and put my footwear under extreme stress. I honestly didn’t expect them to last that long.

There were many times when I was hiking trails or at the beach, and they got yanked away from my feet by sticky mud or the incoming tide. The toe strap on many other flip flops snapped in these conditions, but again, the Oofos never did.

The soles wore down over that year. Eventually I wore a hole all the way through, and duct-taped them up until my Ohanas arrived. Haha. If I can get a full year out of a pair of flip flops, most people can probably get two. I was impressed.

Olukai Ohanas

I did have higher durability expectations for the Ohanas, but they certainly have delivered. After 2 months of fairly rigorous daily use, they are still going strong, with barely any wear on the soles. Not much more to say about that. They are tough.

Comfort

Oofos

By now, you may have wondered why I ever bought the Oofos in the first place. Well, I’ll tell you why…it’s because I tried them on. Haha…seriously, it’s kind of unreal wearing a pair of Oofos. I have never experienced that level of comfort – with any shoe.

I had a knee injury some years ago, and on my long treks (especially with a heavy pack) my knee can really ache now. That literally stopped happening when I started wearing the Oofos.

They kind of feel like you’re always walking on the ground at one of those fancy kids’ playgrounds…you know, the ones with the soft, padded flooring? Tip: If you really do wear Oofos on those playgrounds, it’s double softness. You’ll be walking on clouds!

However, for some people, there is such thing as too much comfort. Many hikers / adventurers prefer more firmness in the soles, and I can see why.

Olukai Ohana Koa

After wearing my Oofos for a year, I was a bit disappointed by how stiff the Ohanas felt when I tried them on for the first time. Still, after all the glowing reviews I read, I decided to give them a chance.

The girl at the store recommended I buy a snug fit. I wear size 10.5 US,  and usually have to buy 11 if there are no half sizes. With her suggestion, I bought a 10.

You want the truth? After a week or two, I was ready to return these. My feet have never been in so much pain. I think they actually bruised the tops of my feet. I kept pushing, hoping to break them in…just like the reviewers said. It was an epic struggle.

Then, after about a month of pretty solid use, something miraculous happened. I don’t know if the “compression molded midsole” finally formed to my feet, or if I developed some tough calluses, but now they feel great. Snug and secure!

Oofos – Pros and Cons

Pros

• Ridiculously Comfortable
• About 30% Cheaper
• Lightweight
• Might Help You Get a Senior Citizens Discount at Denny’s

Cons

• You’re Wearing Boats on Your Feet
• No Traction When Wet / Slippery Footbed
• Too Comfortable For Rugged Use
• Thick Soles (Gives Tall People Extra Unwanted Height)

You can have a look at them HERE

(Continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…I’m a photographer and wanderer, reviewing my favorite travel gear along the way)

– Nathan Allen

Olukai Ohana – Pros and Cons

Pros

• More Stylish / Better Design
• Very Good Traction On All Surfaces & In All Conditions
• Firm, Yet Comfortable Enough For Hiking & Trekking

Cons

• 30% More Expensive
• Painful Break In Period If You Want a Snug Fit
• Slightly Heavy

Common Strengths of Both

• Very Durable (Even More So For Ohanas)
• Quick Drying & No Foot Odor (Huge Plus!)
• Comfortable Enough For All Day Use
• They Do Not Mark Floor Surfaces
• Both Are Unisex (As Far As I Know?)

So, which pair is more comfortable? I guess the simple answer is the Oofos. They are, in fact, the most comfortable I’ve ever worn.

If you’re not as active (and picky) as me, go try a pair on. You’ll be amazed.

However, for my lifestyle (and unless I injure myself), I will only buy the Olukai Ohanas again in the future…especially if they last me over a year, which I really believe they will. They are some of the most expensive flip flops you can buy, but they last – and are worth it. (Update…3 or 4? years later…I’m back in California and STILL wearing these Olukai’s seasonally. Love them! )

The first time I gripped a rocky trail in them, I realized how amazing they were. Not as cushy as the Oofos, but I still have no knee pain, and they’re quite comfortable. Since they fit snug and are designed for water use, I plan on shedding the weight of my aqua shoes in my pack – and just wearing these for snorkeling, too!

Tip: If you wear a half size, go down a size instead of up, and suffer through the break in period. Otherwise you will end up with a great big floppy flip hanging off your foot (did I just write that?)

Where To Purchase

You can find more info about Oofos, Olukai, and other sandals HERE

Cheers,

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

*I purchased these sandals myself after doing extensive research. If you use any of the Amazon links on this page, it costs you nothing extra + helps me continue to provide this content. Thanks!

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The post OluKai Ohana vs Oofos – Which Sandal is Most Comfortable? appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

I accepted a last-minute invitation to experience these remote islands in the Philippines – I’ll never forget it.  These are some of my favorite photos taken in the last year!  Make sure you scroll through and see all of them…

This is beautiful Bitaog beach on Porongpong, the largest of the Palumbanes Islands.

These 3 tiny islands are about 45 minutes off the coast of northwest Catanduanes – an island province of the Philippines.  Che of Backpacking Pilipinas told me about this place – she is the famous traveler who explored all 80 provinces of the Philippines before she turned 30.  A local of Catanduanes, she started BookSail, which has worked to provide these local children with books to read:)

Make no mistake – there is basically no tourism infrastructure on the islands.  For me, that was part of the adventure.  When our boat pulled up to the small fishermen village, the locals seemed very excited to have a visitor.  Could I be the first white traveler to experience these islands?

My host Linda (pictured above) quickly introduced me to Sir Yoy, who is the head teacher of the local school.  I mentioned that I would love to climb the hill where the lighthouse was…so I could see the sunset over the islands.  He was very kind to agree to guide me, because I realized later it’s quite a grueling trek!

As we started climbing the trail out of the village, I realized I forgot to change out of my “tsinelas” (flip flops), for the hike.  The trail was more steep and rocky than I thought it would be.  When I looked behind me, I noticed that half the kids from the village seemed to be joining us! 

This little girl was very young, and she wasn’t wearing any shoes.  I realized that I should probably stop worrying about my flip flops.

The view from the top did not disappoint.  It felt like we were on the edge of the world…and it reminded me a bit of the grassy, green hills of Calaguas Island, which I had explored a month previously.   

When we returned, I thanked my unexpected local guides and followed my host back to the family’s nipa hut, where I found our dinner being cooked by candlelight.  Out on the edge of the village there is no electricity, but again, it just added to this unique adventure. 

Our dinner consisted of rice, langka (jackfruit) + and fresh-caught fish in coconut milk. It was delicious!  I was tired after a long day, and climbed into my duyan (hammock) for the night.  Waking up overlooking a beautiful rice field the next morning was quite an experience, but so was the adventure the local kids would take me on later that afternoon!

Bitaog Beach – Part 1 of my “Lord Of The Flies” Adventure

I had heard there were some corals to see underwater at beautiful Bitaog beach.  Around noon (the hottest part of the day…and in summertime), the local kids were eager to take me up and over the hill to the beach.  Again, it is much further and more steep than you imagine it would be, being on such a tiny island.  It’s a lot of fun trekking through the underwater mangrove forest along the way, though. 

Swimming – The turquoise-blue water is quite a welcomed sight by the time you arrive at the beach (covered in sweat)!  Keep in mind that you can easily hire a local boatman to take you the beach.  It’s just 15 minutes away.  Here, we all swam and enjoyed cooling off – some of the kids climbed aboard a small banca (boat) so they could do back flips into the water. 

Fishing – The boys had brought some fishing line and homemade lures…I was amazed that they were able to catch quite a few small fish and crabs in no time at all!  I imagined them turning into experienced fishermen with families of their own someday. 

“They may not have shoes to hike around the island, but they certainly have a beautiful playground”, I thought to myself.  Their joy was infectious. 

Later, the locals had their kids take me out again for an afternoon boat tour…and these kids were young!  The boat master was 15 years old, and was by far the oldest of the group.  The youngest must have been just 6 or 7.  That is why I refer to it as the “Lord Of The Flies” adventure.  It is amazing how capable these children are. 

My “Lord Of The Flies” Adventure – Part 2

(The best photos are yet to come! )

Our first stop was the south beach of Tignob Island…I have listed it as “site #2” on the map below.  It’s nice, and if you snorkel out into 4 or 5 meters of water, you can see a few beautiful plate corals and colorful fish.  I heard that this beach is owned by the previous Governor of Catanduanes, and maybe that’s why I still noticed some fish and corals.  Unfortunately, many other locations have been destroyed and overfished already. 

However, the real treat was waiting in the water at Bitaog beach afterward…

These are some of my favorite underwater photos I have taken anywhere in the Philippines.  I didn’t expect to see such beautiful coral formations still in tact!  These were taken about 15-20 meters out in the water from Bitaog beach (check “site #1” on the map below).  If you are approaching the beach by boat, these corals are on the far left side of the beach.  By the way, this is an excellent beach for sunset!

The beautiful photo below was taken at “site #3” just off of Calabagio island, on the way back to the mainland.  I had to hunt around to find it, but it was worth it!

If you are wondering, I took these photos with my Olympus TG-4 underwater camera.  You can see why I like it so much:)

Where To Stay

Coco Beach Resort and Karaoke – This rustic place (if it still exists) is right across the water from Palumbanes in barangay Baybay.  It’s run by a woman named Mrs. Letty.  I really loved it there!  Simple nipa hut-style rooms are just 200-300 pesos a night.  To be honest, I loved barangay Baybay, they had really great, cheap food at the carinderias (eateries), and the locals were very friendly + spoke exceptional English (especially the children)!  Great job, teachers!

Pictured here are the bahay kubos you can rest in by the beach. 

You can wake up very early and negotiate your boat trip across the water from here. 

You can Phone ate Letty at: 0928 620 4592

Marem Pension House – Virac  -This is a very affordable option right in downtown Virac.  It’s been around for many years, and is a very interesting and well maintained place.  Note that this is still 5 hours away from Caramoran, where you would take the boat to the islands.  Still, it’s a good option if you need to stay in Virac.

You can book Marem Pension House HERE

Catanduanes Midtown Inn (Virac)  -This is a bit more money, but a huge step up in quality…and a great value.  Note that this is also 5 hours away from Caramoran, where you would take the boat to the islands. 

You can book Catanduanes Midtown Inn HERE

Pacific Surfer’s Paradise Beach Resort (Puraran)  – If you will be visiting the famous surf capital of Catanduanes, This was the best of the 3 options I explored there.  A great value for food/lodging, plus a friendly staff.  Note that this is VERY far from Caramoran, where you would take the boat to the islands. I just wanted to include it because many people visit Puraran when they are in Catanduanes.

You can book Pacific Surfer’s Paradise Beach Resort HERE

Homestay

If you are looking to stay on Palumbanes longer than just one day, your only option is to speak with Sir Yoy at the elementary school when you arrive.  He might know of a homestay for you, or possibly be able to set you up with a camping spot on the beach.   Just ask the locals to point you to Sir Yoy, or the elementary school when you arrive. 

How To Get To Palumbanes Islands

(Tip: You might want to avoid the rough seas in September, October, and November)

The fastest way is to take a direct flight to Virac, Catanduanes from Manila, but it is a bit pricey.  From there, you can take a 5-hour bus up to Caramoran (notice the spelling…not “Caramoan”).  Ask the locals to point you to the port at barangay Baybay.  There you will need to find a local boatman who will agree to take you.  It should cost 300+ pesos per person each way, and you should make sure and secure a life jacket before getting on the boat. 

The cheapest way to get to Palumbanes is to take an overnight bus from Cubao, Manila to Tabaco, Albay.  Then you can take an early morning ferry to Virac or San Andres.  From there, follow the bus instructions above, or ask the local trike drivers if anybody might want to rent you a motorbike (only for the very adventurous). 

Photos were taken at the following 3 locations on the site map below:

The main village is located right where it says “Palumbanes Islands” on the map.

Traveling Safe and Responsibly

Snorkeling: As you can see, there are some beautiful corals to explore…but they need to be protected from dangerous fishing methods, damage from boats, and yes…even damage from tourists.  Make sure your boatman doesn’t damage any corals with the bottom of the boat, and make sure you jump off the boat in deep water so you don’t step on any corals yourself. Always wear a life jacket, and make sure the boat stays near you as you snorkel if possible.

Note: Nobody on the island can provide you with a snorkel and mask, and I’m not even sure you can find them in Virac.  You must bring your own.  If you use fins, make sure you swim with your fins up as high as possible to avoid touching the corals.  You should never touch the corals with any part of your body – for the safety of both you and the coral. 

Locals: If you are lucky enough to be invited to stay in somebody’s home, please be a respectful and gracious guest.  Consider offering your hosts a bit of money when you are leaving, as the people on the island are quite poor.  You might consider bringing something for the local children when you arrive. They will probably love sweet candy, but please remember they don’t have access to dentists if they get cavities.

My Dream

My dream is for people to be inspired to visit these beautiful places, and use their tourism dollars to breathe life into the local communities.  Perhaps the villagers can start to sell locally-made pasalubong (gifts for tourists to take to their friends).  The income from tourism may give the fishermen more incentive to preserve and protect the underwater world as well, so it is a win-win situation!  

I hope local governments will take note, and work to responsibly protect and promote places like Palumbanes Islands.  Many thanks to tiya Linda and the Gurrobat family for all the hospitality, and for all the smiling faces that made my time on these islands truly unforgettable!  This was the raw, real Philippines that I had been craving!!

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  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

My First Glimpse of the San Juanico Bridge

The motorbike for this trip was generously provided by Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban, Leyte. Being just across the water from Samar, this gave me the chance to ride across the famous San Juanico Bridge. It snakes its way across the sea, connecting the 2 giant islands. Elegant and picturesque, it’s also the longest of its kind in the Philippines.

I rode north and thought I’d easily make it to Calbayog City before sunset. Wrong. By the time I finally did arrive, I was tired, hungry, and quite sore from the ride. The problem was, the city was in chaos. There was no power anywhere, and it was rush hour…so there were cars, jeeps, trikes, and people everywhere.

An Earthquake Left Us in the Dark

I was too hungry to think straight. I stopped at a bank to ask how to get to a hotel I read about. The guard gave directions, and then explained that there was no electricity because of a big earthquake in Leyte, where I just came from. The entire region (both huge islands) was pitch black. Crazy. I rode right through it – I didn’t feel a thing.

Unfortunately my hotel was booked, because everybody was clamoring for rooms with electricity (some hotels had generators). I lucked out and got the last room at a clean, modern place called Meaco Hotel. I really needed it. Staff was great, and I was lucky to find some tasty Bicolano food next door at an eatery. They were nice, too. I’m going to like Samar, I thought to myself.

Samar Landscapes

The next morning, I was back on the road…heading to Bangon and Tarangban Falls, about an hour away. The clouds slowly began to clear, and I parked the bike for a quick photo shoot. Nice bike, huh? It’s a Yamaha NMAX 155cc. Probably the most comfortable scooter you will ever ride…

My Filipino friends laugh when I tell them how much I love banana trees. We just don’t have anything like these back home in California! They look so lush and tropical to me. I particularly loved this vista looking out to some islands in the sea.

I didn’t know it, but by the time I took this picture, I had already missed the turn for Bangon Falls. This colorful waterway full of fishing boats was located about 2kms north of where I needed to be.

I guess this was some sort of temporary wooden bridge, but I wanted to take a photo to show you how rough the roads can be. There were construction sites and one-lane detours everywhere! Anyhow, a huge shipping truck came around the corner behind me, so I had to jump back on the bike and and get out of the way pretty quick! Haha.

That Time Nathan Allen Broke Down in Allen, Samar

Ever since I looked at a map of northern Samar and noticed a town called “Allen” (my family name), I knew I had to visit it. Well, right as I pulled in to town, something tried to keep me there, because my brand new motorbike wouldn’t start anymore! The locals pointed to a vulcanizing / mechanic shop up the road, so I pushed the bike there. 

The guys there were nice and helpful. Soon, we had attracted the attention of some curious onlookers. At first I thought something was wrong with the safety feature that’s cuts the engine when the side stand is down…it turns out it was super simple – the battery cable had just come loose! Still, I gave kuya a bit of money for his help. He was reluctant to accept, but I insisted. 

Some of the others were very kind to lead me to the Municipal Hall, where I hoped to find more information about the town of Allen.

Some very enthusiastic employees greeted me at the Municipal Hall. They were excited, and convinced that I must be related to the famous Allen. Haha. It turns out the town was named after Major General Henry Tureman Allen, who was Military Governor of Leyte in 1901. Similar to the Lewis and Clark expedition, he was also famous for having explored over 2,000kms of Alaskan wilderness in the 1880s.

Anyhow, no relation to me (that I know of)…but a good experience in the town of Allen anyhow. Thanks, guys!

As I continued east from Allen, I came across this beautiful “floating” native village. I believe it was near San Jose, in northern Samar.

An Encounter in a Cemetery

I also stopped to take photos of a beautiful old cemetery tucked away in the jungle. There was nobody around, and I ventured inside as the afternoon sun started fading. I lost track of my surroundings, as I was super focused on getting the best shots in the challenging light.

Suddenly I noticed a small figure out of the corner of my eye. I looked up and saw a small head disappear behind a tree. Trying to not show any fear, I walked confidently over to the tree and looked behind it…but there was nothing there.

Strange. I was positive I had seen it. I nervously took a few more shots on my way out, then prepared to leave by the side of the road. Just before I got on the motorbike, I saw a young boy watching me from the gravestones. I smiled and waived as I rode away…he waived back. I wonder what his story is.

Anything Could Cross the Highway: Kids, Chickens, Water Buffalo…Wait. Airplanes??

I was completely exhausted by the time I started nearing Catarman. It seemed like a repeat of the chaos in Calbayog…dark city streets full of people and traffic…and at one point all the vehicles were funneled through a small hole in a giant wall. Suddenly it opened back up to a huge, dark expanse, with pavement stretching in every direction. It was so odd. It almost seemed…like…the road was crossing a giant airplane runway.

Well, today on a Google Satellite Map, I confirmed that the road does in fact cross the runway of Catarman National Airport!  Haha. I realized that riding a motorbike on an airplane runway is probably a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Anyhow, hotels were all booked once again, but I was lucky to find a cheap room at Mijares Hotel, tucked away on a side street. Had to deal with the heat when the generator cycled off every few hours, but that’s life in the provinces. I was already used to it. In the morning I found an eatery nearby called Downtown Silog…

A Toasted Siopao Discovery in Catarman

There are some foods that I really love in the Philippines. One is Emong’s Malunggay Pandesal (Moringa leaf bread). The other is Toasted Siopao, which I tried in Naga City for the first time. I was surprised to see it served here at Downtown Silog, and this version is pretty different. It’s delicious, sweet like a doughnut…and you HAVE TO TRY IT.

A Yamaha Dealer – Right When You Need One

How lucky is this? Right as I turned onto the road to Calbayog, the “change oil” light came on. I promised to take good care of this sleek motorbike, but I wasn’t sure where I could find a trustworthy shop way out here. BOOM. I literally looked up and saw a Yamaha Dealership & Service Center right across the street.

The owner of Haven’s Transport uses this bike personally, and he really customized it. The guys at the shop were really drooling over it. A resort owner in Leyte loved it so much that he joked he would steal it in the middle of the night. Haha.  Anyway, this team got the job done right…and right away. I really appreciated that.

N.P.A. Ambush?

The “shortcut” road to Calbayog was much more remote than I thought it would be. It really took me into the hills and countryside. Soon, I started seeing these graffiti-type signs on the side of the road. They were painted on old wooden planks, and written in the local dialect. Littered with exclamation points, the only part I could understand was “NPA…AMBUSH!!!“

The NPA “National People’s Army” is a rebel group who hide in the mountains. I think they’re considered terrorists by the government. Anyway, these signs were clearly meant for people on the road, and each one seemed to get more and more serious as I kept riding. I don’t ever feel unsafe in the Philippines, but I started to wonder if there was something I didn’t know about this little road…

In the end, it was fine. I’m not sure if it’s true, but somebody told me that those signs were just the community trying to convince the rebels to come out from the hills and give themselves up. Anyhow, the road opened back up, and I got finally made it to Bangon Falls in Calbayog. Incredible place, the link to that blog post is at the bottom of this page…

I continued south after photographing the waterfalls. It was getting late (and raining, of course), so I stopped in Calbayog for an overnight at a place called Marju Krisel Hotel and Resort. There was quite a party going on there! So many families eating, drinking, and swimming in the pool. My room was super cheap, I was surprised. https://lap.lazada.com/banner/dynamic.php?banner_id=59eaefa8a1213&theme=1&p=1

The next day, I hoped to make it all the way to the coastal town of Catbalogan. On my way there, I stopped at a restaurant called Marcial’s Grille. This was recommended to me by an American guy who lives in Samar. They serve one of the best pork liempo (belly) I have ever tried!

Photos From Catbalogan

I came across these friendly locals when I pulled the motorbike over to take photos of Buri Island, out at sea.

Lined with huts and fishing boats, this “floating village” is on the outskirts of Catbalogan, near the Bus Interchange. After this, I explored Buri Island a bit, then continued on to Catbalogan City proper.  There, I was able to visit the tourist center and also meet with Mr. Joni Bonafacio, Samar’s resident cavemaster. He runs an outdoor / adventure shop called Trexplore.

Seeing all his Samar photos and expeditions on the walls, it was pretty clear that I barely even scratched the surface on my trip. Great guy, I enjoyed meeting him. Being that it’s one of Samar’s claims to fame, I do hope to try caving on my next trip. A far-flung place I was sad to miss was Pinipisikan Falls and Sulpan Cave. 

Rice Field Landscapes in Paranas

One my way south to Marabut, I came across these beautiful rice paddies in Paranas. It’s been my dream to see the famous Banaue Rice Terraces at a vibrant, early stage like this. Instead, I always seem to end up there near harvest time, when the greens turn to brown. Anyhow, quite a picturesque little scene on the side of the road.

Saob Cave in Basey (Famous For Banig)

This cave area features the famous weavers who popularized banig, or Ticog Grass floormats. It’s a peaceful place, and as you can see, nobody was around when I explored the cave in the afternoon. I suppose it made the experience that much more surreal.

Marabut’s Fascinating Limestone Landscapes

This was the highlight of my trip around Samar. These limestone rock formations and cliffs give the area a feel similar to El Nido. I absolutely loved it here.

It still has it’s own character, though. To be honest, I’m shocked that I didn’t hear more about this place sooner. I guess it’s not as famous as northern Palawan because it doesn’t have white sand beaches. As a photographer / adventurer though, it has everything I’m after. Definitely a place I want to come back and explore more.

You can see more of Marabut’s exotic limestone rock formations in my Caluwayan Beach Resort Post. I loved staying there.

How To Get To Samar

Domestic flights to Calbayog City depart from Manila and Cebu. I think Cebu Pacific even flies to Catarman, the airport with a highway running through it! Haha.

You can also take a page from my playbook – fly to Tacloban and rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s …and start an adventure of your own! The owner Rhoel is a great guy.

Where to Stay

Definitely check out Caluwayan Beach Resort, or for Calbayog City, check out  the options below:

Thanks for seeing this post through to the end…I know it was a long one! On this ride I probably covered 2,000kms through Leyte and Samar. Hard to believe. By the way, if you try caving in Samar, please send me your pictures!

Also be sure to check out more of my posts from Samar below…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Samar, Philippines

Bangon & Tarangban Falls – Calbayog, Samar

The Exotic Charm of Caluwayan Beach Resort – Marabut, Samar

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