By Nathan Allen

The hotel sits overlooking Liugongzhen Park, in Taipei’s hip (and historic) Da’an District. The hotel’s PR guru, Mr. Calvin Lai, picked me up and gave me a tour of the facilities. Impressive is an understatement…

The design of the hotel really has a rich, warm feel to it.

Interestingly, the hallway walls and room doors are adorned with copper plating.

You may notice hand and fingerprints from the guests on the walls, and the preservation of these is actually intentional. It’s a way for guests to leave their mark on the hotel, and kind of  give the place a broken in feel. This quirky idea is the brainchild of mastermind designer Ray Chen.

I was fortunate to experience his other designs in both HOTEL QUOTE and GLORIA RESIDENCE as well…each with their own unique feel.

When I reached my room, this was the greeting I found waiting for me. What a nice touch, to put my name up on the giant flats screen TV! I believe it is also programmed into the digital readout on the in-room phone. What a way to make feel guests feel welcomed and valued.

The rooms envelop you in a warm atmosphere of plush fabrics, carpets, and wood paneling. Leather is used as tasteful accenting on some of the furniture as well. As is the case with all Gloria Hotel properties I toured, there is a nice oversized safety deposit box provided (although Taipei feels quite safe to me).

Room Details

I loved the vintage lighting and control switches in the rooms, what a nice retro touch! Ray Chen is a big fan of chandeliers, too…and you’ll notice them throughout the hotel – even at the side of your bed. Quite a unique and dramatic touch.

Another “vintage” feature is the deliberate choice to include normal keyed locks. I can’t remember the last time I stayed at a hotel this nice that didn’t use electronic room cards. The locks are concealed behind classy copper (or brass?) covers. I’m a sucker for nostalgia, so I loved this.

Pictured here is the beautiful, spacious layout of the Deluxe Room. It comes complete with a desk and sleek leather chair. My “job” has provided many, many stays in hotels and resorts…but very few have bedding with this level of comfort. Honestly, the Gloria Hotel group (or Ray Chen…or both?) really hit the nail on the head with their heavenly comforter and mattress choices.

The Most Elegant Bathroom…All To Myself

Can you believe this? I took full advantage of this luxurious bathtub, and was quite amazed by the electronic toilet. Upon approach, the lid automatically lifts, and the inside of the bowl is illuminated with blue LED lighting. Of course it includes a bidet, and even has the option to adjust both water placement and pressure. I believe the seat is heated as well.

HOTEL PROVERBS spares no expense…even the faucets are classy works of art.

Depending on which way your room faces, you may get a nice view of the city and park below.

It was a beautiful day in Taipei.

I took the elevator down to check out the bar / lounge below. I’d say this elevator wins the award for best & most hip mood lighting…

EAST END Bar – One of the Hottest in Taipei

Sadly, I didn’t have time to experience the bar at night. I’ve heard plenty of stories about it, though…and even during the day, it looks like an incredible place to have a drink. The bar / lounge is owned by world famous Tokyo mixologist Hidetsugu Ueno. Apparently it’s one of the trendiest cocktail bars in Taipei’s Eastern District.

By the way, note the grey tiles on the right and above the bar. They can be found adorning the walls of the lobby and bar…each one is unique, and they were collected from vintage buildings in New York!

TK SEAFOOD & STEAK Restaurant

The EAST END Bar is not the only famous establishment housed in the hotel…this steakhouse is also quite known for it’s fresh and unique menu options. When you walk into the lobby, on the left you’ll notice a curing rack on display…complete with curing meats inside!

Apparently the chef owns a farm, and the restaurant’s ingredients are organic, and straight “from farm to table”. Be sure to check out the Jack Daniel’s infused steak as well!

Above, you’ll notice the dining hall, with an impressive display of the before mentioned chandeliers.

Here you can get an idea of how fresh the seafood options are…I believe the chef and dining staff were conducting a training in the background. 

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Rooftop Swimming Pool – Hotel Proverbs Review

I loved being up here….I swam just before closing, with sweeping views of downtown Taipei and the iconic Taipei 101 building on the skyline.

That’s about it for my first trip to Taiwan…though I doubt it will be my last. I loved this friendly country so much. I plan on coming back to explore much more (and even try to learn some Mandarin!) Big thanks to Calvin Lai, Spud Chang, and the rest of the helpful staff at the hotel. Your warm service and attention to detail did not go unnoticed….

Location & Booking

HOTEL PROVERBS Taipei is conveniently located about a 5 minute walk from the Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT station, and less than 1 km from the Liaoning Night Market.

You can browse more photos & reviews on Agoda HERE

For Booking. com, you can click HERE

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share.

More Taiwan Blog Posts

A Surreal Experience Staying @ HOTEL QUOTE Taipei

My Own Sleek Apartment in the Heart OF Taipei – GLORIA RESIDENCE

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By Nathan Allen

As for my room, it was just my style. I’m a huge fan of mid-century furniture, and I love how well Amorita made it work with a native twist.

Check Amorita Rates HERE.

The space planning is excellent. It’s essentially one giant room, but the layout makes it feel like a complete, well-sectioned unit. For a property to really win me over, my bed must be extremely difficult to get out of in the morning. Amorita scores in this department; the beds are heavenly.

A Personalized Touch

The staff at Amorita never miss an opportunity to greet you with a warm smile. They do a fantastic job catering to your needs, and you shouldn’t be surprised to find friendly notes and sweets left in your room when you return from lunch or dinner each day.

One of my favorite things about my room was the cozy “reading nook”. I love the way the sunlight lit up the green leaves of the tree outside the window….and how the light filters through the blinds in the morning.

I did not get to experience a massage at the spa, but I did take a look around, and it definitely looks like an option worth exploring. The atmosphere is super comfortable and relaxing.

I also enjoyed the little details, like returning to find my towels folded into a dog or an elephant…and using the creative “bamboo speaker” for my iphone. Nicely done!

One of my pet peeves is hotels that provide a safety deposit box that is almost large enough to fit a standard-sized laptop. A laptop-in-tow is quite common these days, and of course it is also one of the most valuable items a hotel guest has with them. So, properties should always keep this in mind, right?

Well, thankfully Amorita thinks like I do:) Laptop-sized, and they even went one step further…they put a little light in there so I won’t forget anything. Bravo!

Anyhow, let’s move on to the outside of the property…in front of the infinity pool, you can enjoy dinner or drinks with a spectacular sunset! I enjoyed this view each and every day I was there.

Lush Landscapes

Strolling around the property provides plenty of opportunities to connect with mother nature. The landscaping utilizes so much green space – not only does it help cool the area, but it also is quite pleasing to the eye. You’ll find tropical plants, flowers, and butterflies just about everywhere you look.

Amorita’s location is quite nice, because you can enjoy all the action on Alona Beach if you’re in the mood, but easily get back to your tranquil hideaway afterward.

*One thing I should mention was the spotty wifi in my room. You know what they say, though, it’s good to unplug when you’re on vacation! Haha. Don’t worry, it works in the restaurant area:)

I didn’t experience much the restaurant had to offer, but I can say that the breakfast buffet was the best I had anywhere on my Bohol travels! Special mention goes out to their Lugaw (loo-gow), which is a Filipino rice porridge. Congee, basically.

Things To Do

I believe the resort offers dolphin watching and island hopping tours to Pamilacan and Balicasag Islands…but you can also go snorkeling right at the bottom of the stairs going down to the beach!

Overall, I would not hesitate to return to this fantastic property, and I thank them for the opportunity to share my experience with all of you.

To me, Bohol is simply unforgettable – and in large part, I have Amorita to thank for that!

Check Amorita Resort rates.

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– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

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By Nathan Allen

Abandoned for many decades, it is the final resting place for many early Chinese pioneers…and currently home to a lot of colorful wildlife–such as kingfishers, woodpeckers, and even a troop of curious monkeys!

Singapore’s Chinese Heritage – Lost in a Jungle

Almost forgotten by time, the dense jungle has taken over much of this historic site. For me, that’s actually a huge part of its appeal. Bukit Brown was named after the original owner, George Henry Brown. He was a British trader that lived on this land.

Brown had sailed from Calcutta in the 1840s, and after purchasing the area, he named it “Mount Pleasant”.

It was then sold to Ong Kew Ho and Huay Kuan, but eventually transferred to the government when the need for a cemetery arose. It served Singapore’s Chinese community for about 50 years, and was actually considered the largest cemetery outside of China. It closed down decades ago, but you can still visit and take a self-guided tour of these mysterious gravesites.

I absolutely loved wandering and taking pictures here…with not a (living) soul around. It’s so solemn and peaceful – a wild and scenic counterpart to Singapore’s well-manicured green spaces (of which I am also a fan).

Photographers, birders, and general nature-lovers feel quite at home here. Have a look at this giant, “rain tree“! These are the kinds of jungle scenes I dreamed of as a kid. I never imagined ferns could grow high up in a tree, but these bird nest ferns feel right at home there.

Some Bukit Brown graves are adorned with stone statues and figurines.

This is one of those times when I wish I could read Chinese…I’m so curious about who these people were, and how they were immortalized and remembered on their tombstones.

A few have actual photos on them…and this helps to paint a picture of who these early Singaporeans actually were.

(continued below)

While exploring these jungle trails on my own, I began to hear rustling in the trees around me. I’m not a very superstitious person, but Bukit Brown is supposedly one of the top 10 haunted sites in Singapore. In fact, the “Asia Paranormal Investigators” are one of the groups working to preserve this historic cemetery!

As it turned out, these “ghosts” were of the long-tailed variety…

Spirit Guardians? – Long Tailed Macaques

Eventually I spotted a curious face through the jungle trees…it was a family of monkeys! There must have been 11 or 12 of them.

I approached slowly, but was still met with a bit of resistance. Most of the group slowly shuffled away, but the dominant male stood his ground and showed his teeth. I did not push my luck, but instead just sat peacefully, hoping to show them that I was no threat.

It worked. The old male kept a watchful eye on me, but he began to relax…and even start foraging for food around him. The female and baby monkeys slowly inched back into view.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Needing to get closer, I switched cameras. With my little Canon superzoom, I continued shooting photos in the fading afternoon light. Some of these monkeys even seemed to pose for me!

They were so fascinating to observe…I can see why anthropologists like Jane Goodall & Dian Fossey studied them so intensely. Their behavior seemed to mirror a human family’s so much…it was uncanny.

The youngest members were the most curious…but the easiest to be spooked as well. This makes sense, as they would be the most vulnerable. These baby monkeys were adorable…and so expressive!

Eventually, curiosity got the better of some members. They began to climb the trees and position themselves above me, so as to get a better look. At one point I had one almost reach down  and touch the top of my head. Of course, I didn’t let things progress too far, because wild animals are, after all, wild.

Still though, these monkeys and I bonded. They were nothing like the super aggressive ones I encountered in India or the Philippines. Those monkeys have no fear of humans, and will even steal food or attack if they feel at all threatened…or are simply in a bad mood! Haha. No…this group, this group was different.

Being in an abandoned jungle cemetery gives them some access to humans, but not too much. They are not too comfortable…but not too afraid, either. I had found a sweet spot. Being allowed to join them, in the wild…in such a humbling and surreal location…was an experience I will never forget.

How To Get There

Bukit Brown is near MacRitchie Reservoir. You can take a bus and get off here. Then walk a few steps down Kheam Hock Road until you see the sign for the cemetery on the left. I think there may be a possibility of guided tours, but I’m not certain.

Tips: If you visit Bukit Brown, I hope you’ll be respectful in this solemn place. Please don’t feed the wildlife, and be sure to pack out all of your trash. Definitely don’t forget mosquito repellent if you’re going in the morning or late afternoon. Other than that…enjoy!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

These Singapore Photos Were Shot During a 50-Cent Bus Ride (Ricoh GR II)

Singapore Street Photography (Ricoh GR II)

My Detailed Comparison of the Sony RX100 vs the Ricoh GR II

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*I am not connected to Canon, I bought the camera myself. However, using my Amazon links will help me keep creating content like this, so I appreciate it!

The post How I Was Adopted By Monkeys in Bukit Brown, a Singapore Cemetery appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

This was different – a whole new ballgame. It was massive…and oh so swanky!

For the first time in my life, I felt a bit…presidential.

For the sake of promoting tourism in my beloved Philippines, I returned from the jungle and endured 3 days of pampering, just  so that I can share the experience with you! Yes, I make these sacrifices for you.

Now that I’ve got my daily dose of sarcasm out of the way, let’s get on with the show!

Of course, I have featured luxury hotels previously, but somehow, looking out the window at your own private plunge pool adds another dimension to things. So does watching HBO on your flat screen TV…while taking a hot bath.

Honestly, I thought to myself: “What did I do to deserve this?”

Sleek, Warm, & Refined

To say I was impressed with the design and decor of my villa would be a drastic understatement. Of course, it had everything you would expect from a high-end property…private entry, kitchen, dining, and living room areas, along with a separate bed and bathroom.

However, what really struck me was the level of quality and attention to detail – at every turn. The space planning, the fabrics, the furniture design – it all felt quite deliberate. It was so elegant, but thankfully, not at the expense of being warm and inviting. I felt comfortable – not like I was tiptoeing around a museum or something.

From my calculations, the bathroom could accommodate a moderately-sized elephant or two, and comes equipped with a luxurious tub, oversized glass shower, and 2 soft, cotton bathrobes. As mentioned before, there is a TV in the bathroom, but there is also a much larger one in both the living room and bedroom.

The Kind of Sleep You Dream of…

Speaking of the bedroom, this surely was the highlight of the villa for me. Just look at that heavenly 4 post bed! Getting up in the morning has never been more difficult.

Somehow, this room reminded me of the scenes from “Out Of Africa”, which I watched as a kid. I always dreamed of visiting an exotic location and sleeping in a room like this…though I never imagined it would be this fancy:)

The “plunge pool” is just outside this window, though the door to the patio is located in the living room, not the bedroom.

Personalized Service

The staff was very kind to drop by the villa from time to time and ask if there was anything I needed. That was a nice touch. They would also deliver a note with a bowl of fresh flowers to my doorstep each morning…that’s what you see at the top of the page.

The Resort IS the Destination

Crimson is just 20 minutes from Mactan International airport, but once you arrive, you quickly realize how isolated you are there. However, I realized that being isolated in a place like this is a good thing! You see, the resort has everything needed for a perfect couples or family getaway. Actually, if you want, they do have a daily shuttle going to the shopping mall in Cebu City:)

Activities & Amenities

While it may not have the largest beach, the resort more than makes up for it with amenities galore. Of course, there’s the usual spa, gym, restaurants and bars, but add to that a game room + badminton court, music rooms, and countless activities such as diving, banana boats, and jet skis. That’s just a start – each morning guests receive a schedule chock-full of activities for the day. Have a look at the “foam party” above – what a blast!

The best part is the resort also has a well-qualified child care facility, so mom and dad can get that coveted alone time if they need. Oh! Another nice touch is the mini bar – everything in it is free on the first day of your stay! Free child care AND a free mini bar? These are the kinds of perks that will resonate well with overworked and underappreciated parents. Haha.

Check Crimson Resort rates.

Interiors

Breakfast Buffet

Due to the fact that it was a holiday, it was a bit crowded when I stayed at Crimson. When I finally saw a break in the breakfast buffet crowd, I snapped the picture below. The offerings were varied and plenty…special mention goes out to the pancakes, though they were so good that I wish they were a bit larger! Haha.

Various Night Shots

The 3-tier infinity pool is quite impressive, as is the lighting around the property at night.  

Azure Beach Club (Dinner & Drinks)

I was quite fortunate, because the restaurant’s renown chef, Godfrey Laforteza, prepared a mouthwatering assortment of menu items for me. Not only that, but he took the time to personally present each beautiful dish.  It was certainly a feast fit for a king! Azure even serves craft beer from Cebu City – and it’s brewed especially for them!

A note to international guests: Tastes in the Philippines are generally on the flavorful side ( I hear this from a lot of visitors, and I agree). I find that everything is more sweet, salty, or creamy than we are used to back home. Of course, restaurants are just catering to local tastes, but If you would like to tone down the flavor, just let the server know when you place your order.

Contact Info

Overall, as you can see, I had an incredible experience at Crimson. I want to thank the property for hosting me, and providing the opportunity to share the experience with all of you. The Philippines is my adopted home, and this resort is truly representing Philippine tourism in a world-class fashion. For that, I am grateful, and happy to support it.

Enjoy your stay, and please say hello for me!

Check Crimson Resort rates.

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– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

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By Nathan Allen

Since I was already in Siargao, I took the tour from there (General Luna). It was a beautiful trip…I loved seeing the lush green hills and untouched beaches lined with coconut trees along the way. Some had massive waves breaking on them, just like the famous surfing spots in Siargao.

Along the way, we passed mining operations that have scarred and discolored the landscape on the other side of the water. Local fishermen claim that their catches have dwindled due to all the disruption and sediment in the water. I did not take any photos, but there was a stark contrast between the lush beauty of Bucas Grande on our right, and the barren, dusty hills on our left.

Anyhow, as long as you stay focused on the beauty of Bucas Grande, you’ll love it. We passed local fishermen and they seemed friendly. I loved seeing all the corals just below the surface in the lagoon! Very cool, and I hope the boat operators are always careful to not damage them.

We did not stay at Club Tara Resort (pictured above), but judging by the reviews I read online afterward, we didn’t miss much. From what I’ve read, people recommend stopping to take pictures there, but staying overnight is not really worth it. 

You may notice that I haven’t included a single picture of the actual cave, and I admit, that is kind of funny. It’s because for me, the most beautiful part of Sohoton was the boat ride there, and the landscapes and lagoon around the cave. If you’ve already seen a few caves, I don’t think this one will impress you much.

The fact that you can swim into the entrance of the cave is kind of cool I guess. Once you climb up into the cave, there’s also a 6 or 7 meter cliff jump back down into the water. This will give thrill-seekers their fix!

Jellyfish Lagoon

This was pretty cool. It’s a lagoon that fills up with stingless (harmless) jellyfish. Apparently there are hundreds and hundreds of them, depending on the time of year. There is some confusion about whether or not you are allowed to swim with them, though. On my visit, one official told me it was OK, while another said it is not.

There might have been 50 jellyfish in the lagoon at that time…but they were spread out over a large area, so there might only be one within 2 meters of you at any given time. The photos I’ve seen online show jellyfish everywhere, so I do hope the decline is a seasonal thing, and not something brought on by tourist activity.

By the time my group finished seeing the jellyfish, we were quite hungry. We did buy fresh fish, vegetables, and rice at the market to bring with us, but we found that the cooking fees were a bit high. I don’t know if it would be the same for every tour, but it’s good to know what to expect. I recommend asking your guide about this before you leave.

More Tips For Your Tour

Sohoton Cove and Lagoon reminds me a bit of Palawan. Honestly, unless you have a lot of time and money, if you’ve already seen Palawan, you might want to skip Sohoton. Almost everybody agrees that is just too expensive. It’s totally worth it if your group is large enough to keep costs down, though. 

Make sure you negotiate with your tour guide, and ask about any and all fees. The environmental / entry fees are very steep, and don’t forget the snorkel rental and cooking fees if you’re bringing lunch. Just so you know, there were 6 of us in my group, and I think it was worth it.

If you haven’t already, check out my Siargao post for more island love:)

– Nathan Allen

*Note: I incorrectly labeled “Sohoton Cove” as “Sohoton Cave” in the title. There is a separate place called “Sohoton Cave” in the province of Samar.

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Related blogs:

Surfing and Exploring Siargao

Island Hopping in Siargao

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  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Tour Departs By Boat From Palompon Town

Due to the nature of my trip (weather…possible motorbike breakdowns…etc), unfortunately I couldn’t inform the tour company exactly when I would be there. I was impressed, because even at the last minute, they were able to throw an overnight camping trip together for me. What a dream come true!

I met my guide, Mrs. Warblitz at the Palompon port early the next morning. It was a bit cloudy, so I hoped the weather would clear for nice pictures.

It was only about a 45 minute boat trip, and before I knew it, I was already exploring the tiny island! I came across the rocky beach pictured above, and also a small island chapel...as well as a tree house on the far end. I heard that it’s private property, unfortunately.

I took a few photos and made some new friends…there were some tourist groups from the Philippines, and quite a large one from China. Soon, the clouds began to part, and I was thrilled to see the sun shine down on our little island paradise…

A Picture-Perfect White Sandbar

The tide was starting to come in by the time the sun came out…so the sandbar was slowly submerged by the sea. As you can see here, there is a native-style lifeguard tower, and the lifeguard is constantly kept busy chasing after tourists who try to cross the sandbar at high tide (you’re only allowed to cross when the sandbar is exposed).

There is a small mound of sand at the end of the sandbar…it becomes its own little island at high tide, too. It’s incredibly beautiful.

Blessed by powdery white sand and the shade of plenty of coconut trees, Kalanggaman island truly is a gem in the pacific. “Langgam” means “bird” in the local dialect, and the island gets that name from its shape, when viewed from above.

I climbed up in the nipa hut lifeguard tower for a better view of the sandbar.

The lifeguards were friendly, and I interviewed them a bit as they kept watch on the beach. Below is Nick, who came to Palompon because he has family here. With all the discipline of a military man, I had no doubt that Nick and the guys would keep the island safe throughout the night.

Some tourists recognized me on the beach, and requested a photo. Thanks for sending me the picture, Mrs. Suzette!

Overnight Camping on the Island

Here I am in my own little “bahay kubo”, or native hut. Made from bamboo and nipa, these are iconic in the Philippines. I just relaxed and got some reading done in my hammock. Not a bad life!

As you can see below, the tour company took good care of me. My trip was so last minute that they were not able to include an overnight tour guide. For me this was actually ideal…I love being on my own to take photos and explore. They introduced me to the island guards and the caretaker, and left me with all the supplies I could ever need…

I had a tent, a hammock, rain gear, coffee, tea, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of Filipino foods to last many meals. I even had nachos and beer…and there was enough food to share with new friends, which is the Filipino way. The team set up a beautiful campsite before departing the island. The boat would return to pick me up in the morning.

Being left on my own beautiful tropical island…this really is the kind of adventure I’ve always dreamed of. Guess what?  It gets better…

Snorkeling Off The Beach

A local told me where I might find some corals near the beach. You’ll have to ask for specifics once you’re there. In the fading afternoon light, I managed to get some underwater photography done. Here is a small school of colorful fish above the corals.

I took the these photos with my Olympus TG-5, The Amazon link is HERE. 

There were some beautiful flower-type coral gardens, with both hard and soft corals.

I also spotted a puffer fish, a large lionfish, and a beautiful giant clam. Not bad for an island which isn’t even known for its snorkeling! Something I’ll never forget is one of the young guards who wanted to go snorkeling with me, to make sure I was safe out there.

It was actually his first time using a snorkel & mask to see underwater! He was totally blown away, and I loved watching him experience it for the first time.

TIPS: Always wear a life vest, and do not swim or snorkel near the actual sandbar. The lifeguards told me the current is incredibly strong there. Also, please apply “reef safe” sunblock if you use it, as the chemical “oxybenzone” can kill or damage the coral reefs. I think Banana Boat for kids may be OK.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Sunset on the Sandbar

By sunset, the tide had gone back down, and it was safe for us to walk along the sandbar and take photos. I can imagine the sunsets get even better than this on less cloudy days, too. Just magical.

The local guys and I listened to reggae music (I brought a tiny speaker) as we enjoyed the prepared food. Around 9pm they retired to the other end of the island, and I had the whole sandbar and coconut grove to myself. Perfect weather to sleep outside…so peaceful. I’ll never forget it.

How To Get To Kalanggaman

The most convenient way might be to take a cheap promo flight to Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, then join Leyte Gulf Travel and Tours. They provide vans for the 2-3 hour trip, and of course the boat and all your supplies.

Where to Stay

Overnight camping was pretty epic, but you can also stay in Palompon Town. I stayed at Asayas Pension Plaza…it was OK, but they don’t have online reservations.  Mrs. Warblitz or Mrs Ludette @ Leyte Gulf can make some good hotel recommendations for you if you need.

Again, many thanks to the team for providing this incredible experience! I’m not usually a “tours” kind of guy, but after experiencing everything they have to offer, I can see why it’s worth the extra money.  You can just enjoy your vacation…without the stress of planning so many things. They were super nice, and most importantly – professional.

For me, Kalanggaman Island is just incredible – not too developed or crowded…with a nice white-sand beach and plenty of shady coconut trees. Add to that friendly locals, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for paradise.

Really, this island is pure eye candy.

Enjoy, and be sure to check out my other Leyte posts!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Leyte, Philippines

My motorbike tour of Leyte Province

Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos

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  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

I was on Siargao island, one of the Philippines’ epic surf spots. A tall, weathered traveler sat across from me at a roadside eatery. As is so much easier when you’re traveling solo, I struck up a conversation with him.

I learned he was from Montreal…and had come to the Philippines for an ancient meditation course called Vipassana. I had heard about this “silent retreat” before, and I plied him for more information. It was intriguing.

I learned that volunteers run Vipassana Philippines.  It’s donation based, and therefor doesn’t cost anything to attend. This model helps keep the experience consistent and pure. Aside from this, he was very hesitant to share details about the experience. It was too intimate and personal, and besides, he pointed out that each person’s path will be unique.

After researching it a bit more, I fired off an email to the woman organizing the Vipassana Manila chapter. I was in luck – there were still a few openings.

Can I Even Handle Vipassana?

However, was I SURE I was ready to commit to this? She was asking the same question. People call this a “Silent Retreat”, but “retreat” might not be the best word for it. This ain’t no “Eat Pray Love”…it’s hardcore work. Buddha actually started the Vipassana technique thousands of years ago.

It is completely secular and non religious… practiced by people of all faiths. With Vipassana, students become more in tune with their bodies. One of the ultimate goals is to eliminate suffering.

Healing Old Wounds

Well, I wouldn’t exactly say I was suffering. However, I had recently made the news in the Philippines. This was because a small province declared me “persona non grata” in their region.

Strange but true – Yes, this actually happened

However, I received a LOT of support from Filipinos who knew they weren’t getting the full story. They were right. For me, the hardest part was keeping the truth inside until I left the country. I didn’t feel safe. I did this for about a year while I continued promoting tourism.

Well it took a toll on me. I worried that if I didn’t do something about it, I might end up resenting a country and culture that I loved. Perhaps a Vipassana Philippines course would do the trick.

Aside from all that, as a writer and explorer, I was just curious about the experience in general. I love pushing my mind and body to the limits….I always have.

So, in the sweltering summer, our group met in Manila and boarded a bus for Cavite, about 45 minutes south. We were dropped off on the side of the road, then loaded into “tricycles” – which are a bit like “tuk tuks” in Thailand.

Enter The Vipassana Philippines “Compound”

While Quezon is considered the “Manila area”, this location was actually quite rural. The best word to describe the place we arrived is a “compound”. When they swung the giant gate open and let us in, I half expected it to slam shut and see armed, masked men jump out of the bushes to capture us.

I wasn’t ready to make another appearance in the media – this time as a kidnap for ransom victim.

OK, also…the “jungle” part – it’s a bit of a stretch, These are the tropics, but this location’s not exactly a jungle. The Vipassana Philippines property actually appeared a bit sparse, open and dry. With the exception of the large Indian mango trees that provided shade, it actually reminded me of the California countryside.

Our group joined another in a simple “meeting hall”…basically a pole frame with giant tarps stretched over it. We were encouraged to meet and communicate as much as possible before “noble silence” commenced.

These Vipassana students had come from all over the world…the U.S., Canada, Russia, Spain, Taiwan, China, and Africa. I would say about 25% were Filipinos.

Signing a Waiver – The Shape of Things To Come

We signed waivers and surrendered our phones. This was getting real. They screen students pretty carefully, and it almost seemed like they were trying to convince us not to take the course. This is because the Vipassana experience can be quite intense.

This kind of silent retreat can shock the system more than people realize. Most people have never gone days without Internet, or just being able to read, write, or speak. People with a history of mental disorders might find the deafening silence to be too much.

As even I would find out, being alone with your thoughts (and with nothing to do) can become torture eventually. There is no escape.

Once you commit to a Vipassana course (10 days is already the short version!), they try very hard to keep you from giving up on it. They firmly believe that in order to truly reap the benefits, one must complete all the meditation steps in the 11 day period.

Waking Up Before Sunrise

I’m not exactly a morning person, and my mental state declines rapidly when I get hungry. Perhaps I have low blood sugar? Anyway, I learned we would be waking up at 4AM each morning. All meals at the silent retreat are vegetarian, but there is no dinner served. Ever. They’re not just trying to torture you, it’s actually a strategic part of the program.

We were to sleep in a large trailer, on simple cots separated by thin curtains. There is no breeze through the room, and only some of the cots have fans overhead. I chose mine a bit late, and was lucky to find a cot with a fan that reached me at least some of the time.

Men and women are kept apart…except during the actual course instruction, when they share opposite sides of the room.

Let The Silent Meditation Begin

Our daily Vipassana meditation would take place in what seemed like an oversized metal shipping container. It had one small wall fan on each end.

There was no going back now. I was determined to see this through. After our last dinner for 10 days, we headed to the meditation hall for the course intro and overview. After this, “noble silence” began. We could not communicate with each other in any way…be it verbally, with hand gestures, or any kind of eye contact.

I thought it would be too hot to sleep that first night, but somehow I was OK. At 4AM, a large bell (gong?) sounded. We were to report to the meditation hall right away. Waiting to eat breakfast was a challenge for me, especially considering that we were not fed dinner the previous night. We were required to meditate a few hours each morning – only then could we eat breakfast.

(By the way, if you’re traveling to the Philippines, I recommend these hotel options HERE)

As far as I know, all Vipassana courses are led by video on a projector. An older Indian man named “Goenka” leads you through the meditations. When he was alive, he taught these courses in person. At this point, everything was so new to me that it was easy to stay focused. I wasn’t even particularly hungry. I was amazed.

What is Vipassana Meditation Like?

I won’t go into much detail about the actual meditation itself. You can experience Vipassana Philippines on your own if you’d like.

However, I will just say that it’s not the “spiritual” type you may have in mind. You are probably not going to enter some kind of hypnotic trance and have an out of body experience or something. (He does some light chanting in an ancient language, but it is not religious or spiritual in nature. Only to help you stay focused.)

Vipassana is basically just a series of sensory exercises that help you become aware of your body, and how it reacts to the world around you.

Ideally, it keeps you focused on the present moment, so your mind doesn’t start to wander and worry about the future or the past. Goenka says our mind is like an untrained beast, and Vipassana is a tool we can use to tame it.

Did I Just Join a Cult?

So let’s recap. Here I am in a tropical compound, in what seems like the middle of nowhere. I’m following every word and instruction…chanting “in tongues” with a room full of sweaty fanatics (for all I know). All eyes fixated on our “leader” – a mysterious man in a grainy old video.

Haha yes, to those who don’t know better, it really would seem like I had just joined a cult…and there I was, “drinking the kool aid” along with everybody else.

(continued below, but I’d be honored if you follow along with me)

Eating Vegetarian Meals – In Complete Silence

I think it was 6AM when the breakfast bell rang. We lined up for food, then sat across from each other while we ate in complete silence. Eye contact was a no no…and it was all quite awkward.  We used our original seats and tables for the entire course.

The food…it was quite good! I didn’t miss eating meat at all. I had been eating heavy, oily food in Manila prior to this, so these light, healthy dishes were much appreciated. My compliments to the Vipassana Philippines chefs! My very first silent retreat was off to a good start, I thought.

Fighting The Urge To Flee

We kept busy “doing nothing”…sitting down meditating on cushions literally 10 hours each day. During our “free time”, we could walk around the property. However, most of it was off limits, with a rope tied to mark the boundary.

When we were able to speak on arrival, I heard stories of students walking too far out, and then finding the temptation to escape was just too great. They ran for it, and abandoned the course. I think that’s why they had it roped off.

You can start to go a bit mad out there…you realize just how preoccupied and busy we keep ourselves in our daily lives. When you strip away everything you use to distract yourself from things you don’t want to think about, it gets pretty real.

You have no screens of any kind, no electronics, no games, and no books. No snacks allowed. Rosaries and other religious items, either.

You shouldn’t move too quickly…exercise is out of the question. Not even a brisk walk. All focus should be on the Vipassana techniques.

Zombies in the Yard

I mention “zombies” because we ended up staring vacantly into space, trying to avoid looking at each other. It was awkward because we were always so close together. 

I remember looking out the small window in our room, seeing all these bodies scattered in the yard. They just wandered back and forth aimlessly, staring at the ground or the sky. Looked like a total cliche zombie movie scene.

My Unexpected Challenge

The first 2 or 3 days of Vipassana were challenging, but not for reasons you might think. My problem was that I had figured out these meditation techniques on my own, many years prior to this experience. Not exactly, but I had learned how to become more in tune with my body, and those experiences made learning these techniques much, much easier.

Less than halfway through the first day, I was quite comfortable…and ready to move on to the next step. The problem was that most people had not learned these techniques previously, and the course needed to progress slowly for their sake. Totally understandable.

However, I was already going full steam ahead. I had to repeat the same, basic exercise over…and over…and over….

After 2 or 3 days I thought for sure we would be ready for the next big step. As it turned out, we weren’t. Don’t get me wrong…we did move on, but to me it was basically just a another baby step. The real struggle for me was realizing then that this whole course would progress at a snail’s pace, and I would spend 7 more days here like this.

My Real Test of Patience

Knowing what needed to be done (and how to do it) became a form of torture for me. I couldn’t help but wonder if this was the true test of patience I was here for.

I would open my eyes and peek at all the fortunate souls meditating around me. How I envied them…they had a clearly defined goal – something to work towards. Well I guess I did, too….to make it to the end of this glacial course without going completely bonkers.

Over the next few days, we tried our best to adjust to life at Vipassana Philippines. Not having wifi or my phone wasn’t as difficult as I thought! Still, I’m not going to lie….I’m a writer, and I had a TON of time to sit and think out there. I had so many ideas for future goals and projects; the hardest part was not being able to simply write them down!

I considered finding a hidden spot and writing notes in the dirt…but that would technically be cheating. I began to work on mental repetition exercises, hoping I could burn these thoughts into my aging mind – and do something about them once I was back out in the real world.

There is No Escape…From Yourself

Each day dragged on…and I’ll never forget the plastic red chair. On our free time, most of us sat on plastic stools at the meal tables.  However, there was one plastic red chair with a comfortable backrest.

That chair became our coveted prize…the lucky ones were able to claim it early and sit under the shade of the mango tree. Even luckier if you were able to watch the pair of colorful Kingfisher birds that called those trees home.

Yes, any change in routine becomes a godsend during a silent retreat. For example, even a bowel movement becomes a welcomed and exciting event!

Students All In It Together

If there was one thing that helped me get through this experience, it was knowing that I wasn’t alone. You could see the struggle in everybody’s face. There is no way around it – these Vipassana courses are hard work…especially in this location. The heat and humidity are just brutal. If you’re one to believe in the benefits of “sweating out the toxins”, you’re in luck.

You’ll sweat like a beast, so drink a lot of water to stay hydrated.

Vipassana Philippines is like hot yoga…minus the yoga…and you do it all day long.

Honestly, seeing how miserable everybody looked began to take a toll on me. I began to wonder if I should really be here…if I really belonged. Many of these people seemed damaged…jaded. Broken. Was I one of them?

A Crude Symphony

As if subconsciously rebelling against our inability to make a sound, our tent cabin was a symphony of snoring, belching, and nuclear – grade flatulence each night.

As the days went on, I began to grow annoyed with people around me, and I’m sure others were feeling the same way. Familiar faces started to disappear…never to reemerge. I wondered how they convinced the staff to free them from the course…or did something sinister happen to them?? I kid, they’re fine.

The Light at the End of the Mediation Tunnel

By the last day at Vipassana Philippines, I think many of us were at the end of our rope. You have no idea how painful it is to simply sit in one position for hours and hours. What a test of patience and determination!

As if to taunt us, the last series of instruction and chanting seemed to carry on forever. However, when “noble silence” finally ended, something miraculous happened.

We started talking to each other.

We shared stories about our struggles during course days, and laughed about the “bodily function orchestra” which put on free shows each night.

I imagined that when the final Vipassana bell rang, we would all avoid each other and get out of there as soon as possible. Instead, we ended up sticking around…and even bonding. The people who annoyed me the most, the ones who always seemed to be in the way, or looked the most miserable…they were the ones who laughed the hardest with me.

It was also amusing to realize they were thinking the same things about me. They weren’t so unhappy, damaged, or broken after all.

The smiles returned.

We felt accomplished…we had seen battle together. After becoming fast friends, we exchanged contact information.

The Truth About Vipassana Philippines

Yes, I struggled getting through this silent retreat – and I joke about how cult like it seems from the outside. No, it’s not a cult, and I’m quite glad I saw it through to the end.

I probably wouldn’t do the Vipassana Philippines course again, but I do believe these techniques are useful. Most people will likely see the benefits, assuming they have the determination and willpower to push through it.

How It Helps: Benefits of Vipassana Meditation

According to students and teachers, Vipassana meditation can help ease suffering from the following conditions:

• Depression
• Anxiety
• Despair
• Guilt
• Addiction
• Pain

“Unplugging” With Vipassana

Vipassana meditation is also good for those who want to “unplug” from technology – and experience the world (and themselves) in an entirely new way. You’ll hear many testimonials before and after the course, and there is a reason that many people keep returning year after year.

One other thing: I should mention that the Vipassana Philippines location seems to be temporary. Personally, pushing my mind and body to extremes was exactly what I hoped for, but I think most other Vipassana locations are more comfortable and established.

Hopefully Manila will get a permanent location soon. It all depends on donations by former students and teachers.

Speaking of which, I’d like to thank the dedicated staff. Their cooking and hospitality was wonderful. Also, (I’m sorry if this disappoints you) the image at the top of the page isn’t from the silent retreat. The property looks a bit like that, though. A tiny bit. Haha.

What an experience…one I’ll never forget.

Website: Vipassana Philippines – Silent Retreat in Quezon (Just outside Manila)

For the main international Website: Dhamma Vipassana

(Again, if you’re traveling to the Philippines, I recommend these hotel options HERE)

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

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The post Vipassana: How I spent 10 Days of Silence in a Philippine Jungle appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

1st Stop in Southern Leyte – Peter’s Dive Resort

When Peter’s Dive Resort sent me an invite to come and experience the region for myself, I jumped at the chance. Fascinating corals and thousands of colorful fish lied in wait just below the surface…and that was just the snorkeling…

On a beautiful day, our boat “set sail” out on the open sea. Next stop, Napantao Dive sanctuary on Panaon Island – just across Sogod Bay from Peter’s Dive Resort.

Napantao Dive Sanctuary

We anchored the boat about 10 meters from a rugged, coconut tree lined beach. After the divemaster pointed me to the best corals, I put my life vest, mask and snorkel on and swam out.

Full disclosure: I joined a group of Peace Corps Volunteers who were all diving, but I just snorkeled on this trip.

Snorkeling over Surreal Coral Landscapes

Just off the beach where we docked, I found the coral garden above while snorkeling in about 2-3 meters of water. Pretty cool!  They kind of remind me of flowers. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this type of corals? I have had no luck in my research so far…

I have snorkeled all over the Philippines, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many fish. They were small, but neon blue…and shimmering beautifully in the sunlight above. I also took a photo of a unique brain coral tucked away in a coral “cubby hole”. Never seen anything like it.

I also stumbled upon a massive group of Clownfish. Must have been 30 + in one location! I’ve seen a lot of clownfish in the Philippines, but never more than 3 or 4 in one place. I wonder if this was a breeding site, or what?

Feeling the after affects of my strenuous rifr around Leyte, after about 40 minutes in the water I was tired, cold, and hungry. Luckily, back on the beach,  the team was preparing lunch with fresh caught fish grilling over a fire. The problem was that the wood was moist, and not so easy to burn.

Here’s comes good ol’ Filipino ingenuity to save the day….a dive instructor borrowed one of my fins to fan the flames!

Totally worked.

There was much more to the meal than just fish…we had a full spread with rice, veggies, and even chicken, I think. We definitely didn’t go hungry, I’ll tell you that much. This was a pretty good intro to to snorkeling and diving in southern Leyte, but the next day I was super excited to join a boat trip to Limasawa island, to the south.

Limasawa Island Dive Site

The weather on the first day was a bit cloudy, which put a damper on my photography – both above and below the water. The Limasawa trip was much better, though. Beautiful, sunny day out on the water!

I noticed in southern Leyte the local fishermen wear conical hats, similar to the ones worn in Vietnam. I know they do a good job keeping the sun of your head, but I didn’t see them worn anywhere else in the country, so it makes me wonder if there’s a story behind them.

These fishermen were pretty curious about me taking pictures. At one point they started waiving their paddle in the air to get my attention for a shot! Haha.

Limasawa Island (which means “5 Wives” in Filipino) is supposedly the site of the very first Catholic mass in the Philippines, undertaken by father Pedro de Valderrama, sailing with the fleet of the explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

Anyhow, the island itself is just stunning. We weren’t able to get off the boat and climb up to the marker cross on the hill (I read about it), but the turquoise sea and white sand beaches dotting the island were just beautiful.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Coral Reef + Fish @ Limasawa Snorkeling Site

This was one of the more colorful and fascinating coral formations I came across. If you’re wondering, I took all these photos with my underwater camera, the Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE

(More photos)

I wish I knew more about the fish and coral species, so I could share the names with you. If you know, please leave a comment! I know I saw some nice table corals  + other hard corals…as well as some beautiful soft corals, and even a Banded Sea Krait (snake)!

They are highly venomous, but also highly harmless…haha. They pretty much ignore you. If you were unlucky enough to step on one you could *possibly* get bit. Even then, apparently they don’t always release their venom. Beautiful creatures, in any case.

These last 2 photos are my favorites from this snorkeling trip. Above is a male clownfish protecting his nest in a beautifully sunlit anemone.

Below…I have no idea what this leopard-patterned fish is called. I’m hoping somebody can tell me. It’s the first one I’ve ever seen…so striking! I think it’s some kind of a bottom feeder. * I just found out that this could be a Leopard Blenny…or some other type of blenny perhaps? I wonder if any of you have any ideas?

How To Get To Southern Leyte

You can take flights from Cebu or Manila to the smaller airports of Tacloban or Ormoc (that one’s further away). If you’re a bit flexible with schedule, you might find a great deal on a promo flight from Cebu Pacific Air. There are also fast ferries departing from Cebu (about a 3 hour trip) + a 45 minute bus transfer to the Resort.

If you’re adventurous, you could rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s transport in Tacloban and drive yourself!

Big thanks to Shelani and the Peter’s Dive Resort team! As a lot of dive resorts tend to be,  it’s pretty simple…but a good value with top notch food & service. Plus, the snorkeling and diving was fantastic. Definitely recommended.

Be sure to check out my other Leyte posts, too…

My Massive Motorbike Trip Around Leyte Province

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

A Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour – Leyte, Philippines

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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The post Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos – Leyte, Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

It was a long ride on the motorbike. I had come all the way from Bangon Falls in northern Samar, and being the start of the rainy season, it took longer than expected. Samar is huge, too. I had severely underestimated its size.

When I finally entered the municipality of Marabut, I could hardly believe my eyes. I was greeted by fascinating limestone cliffs and lush tropical trees along the coast. It felt every bit like the exotic landscapes of northern Palawan…only without all the development and crowds. I pulled into the resort just before the sun started going down.

 The staff showed me to my room, and I passed out. I was exhausted. After a good night’s rest, I awoke to some much needed morning sunshine. The resort was beautiful. I loved the rustic, cabana huts along the beach.

 Above are some of the aforementioned limestone cliffs, jutting out from the sea between the cabanas. Such beautiful scenery!

The sea and the beach definitely have a different feel than El Nido, though. The water is less turquoise, and it’s not really a white sand beach. To me it feels more like an exotic tropical lagoon. As a landscape photographer (and adventurer), I absolutely loved this lush, rugged-looking coastline.

On the way back to my room I took some photos of the swimming pool. It’s an infinity pool right up against the sea, so you have a pretty incredible view.

The pool was kept very clean, and I would later enjoy a San Miguel Pilsen here as the sun set.

Photos of my Room

 Conveniently, the rooms overlook the water, and also face the sunset.

Overall, my room was nice…you can tell that the property is kept up well. Wifi can be challenging when you get a bit off the beaten path like this, but I was able to use my Globe Tattoo (pocket wifi) on the balcony of my room.

Everything was quite clean and in perfect working order. Aircon was cool. I particularly liked the view of the pool and island landscapes from my balcony.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner in the Restaurant

My meals were definitely a highlight…first of all, the view while you eat could not be better!

Second of all, I was quite surprised by the freshness of the ingredients, especially considering the remote location. Decent vegetables can be hard to come by on the Philippine islands, so hats off to Caluwayan for this!

Third, they have somehow managed to keep the meal prices very reasonable, especially for this quality. I was definitely impressed. Every single meal I had seemed well thought-out and prepared. I was super happy to have a real pancake breakfast – made me feel right at home!

My compliments to the chef. Keep in mind you can also sit at “Bistro Bar” for drinks with a sea view, or check out the occasional music, dancing, and cultural performances @ the Clubhouse.

Overall Review

While the building exterior may be showing a few signs of wear, the interiors, pool, and restaurant grounds have been kept very well. I found the staff to be extremely warm and helpful. The resort somehow walks a line between charming, rustic, and upscale. In fact, it does this quite well.

For this level of service and accommodation, I think it’s well worth the price. Many other resorts of this caliber would come with a much higher price tag, and perhaps a level of pretentiousness that I don’t really care for. For me, Caluwayan is everything a rustic island getaway should be, and I do hope to come back and visit again someday.

TIP: I believe there may be a free boat tour included in the room rate, so ask about it! On a nice day, I imagine it could be beautiful to explore those rock formations out in the water:) You can also visit the resort just to swim (for a fee) or eat at the restaurant.

How To Get To Caluwayan Beach Resort

The resort is located in the barangay (neighborhood) of Caluwayan, in Marabut, Samar. It can be reached via a 45 minute van ride (or direct boat) from the city of Tacloban. Flights to Tacloban from Cebu or Manila can be quite affordable if you check out some of the Cebu Pacific promos.

You also have the option of renting your own car or motorbike…I can most confidently recommend Haven’s in Tacloban for this.

Booking a Room

You can browse more information about Caluwayan Palm Island Resort on their website HERE

Enjoy this beautiful place, and please tell the friendly staff I said hello!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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The post The Exotic Charm of Caluwayan Beach Resort – Samar, Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

Open For Business – & Better Than Ever

I know it’s been over 3 years…but I guess I didn’t expect this much progress. The Philippines is a country close to my heart, and it has many strengths. However, if I’m being honest, progress isn’t really one of them. Like the U.S., there is so much political infighting. Progress moves at a snail’s pace…if things are even moving forward at all.

However, Tacloban looked great. It was bustling with shops and businesses, and the quality of goods and services went far beyond my expectations. It’s not a large city, but somehow it feels more sophisticated like one.

I had a motorbike very generously provided by Haven’s Tourist Transport near the airport. Rhoel, the owner, was a great guy. He gave me a quick tour of the area before I took the bike out myself.

I stopped by a few places downtown. The first was beautiful Hotel Alejandro, which dates back to prewar times. There is an impressive exhibit with hundreds of historical photos on the walls. After that, I checked out Sto Niño Church, which is a vibrant white color now that it has been restored post-typhoon.

(More Tacloban street photos)

Next was the Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, a rest home built for former President Marcos’ wife Imelda. Apparently her bathroom was larger than most of the citizens’ homes, and she actually ended up staying in the place only once.

I was able to do some street photography downtown, where I captured the hustle and bustle of the jeepneys, trikes, and commuters. Last, I visited the Anibong Memorial, or Yolanda Shrine. Many cargo ships washed ashore during the storm, but people began visiting and taking photos of this one in particular. Knowing this, the government decided to turn it into a monument – to memorialize the victims of the super typhoon.

The MacArthur Landing Site

Leyte is famous with WWII history buffs. That’s because just south of Tacloban, you can find the site of General Douglas MacArthur’s famous return to the Philippines. The American general had been forced to flee from the Japanese previously, but he kept his promise – and these statues memorialize his unit’s return.

It was quite surreal for me, because I ended up here on the 4th a July, our Independence Day in the U.S. It’s a time of celebration with friends and family, which I was desperately missing, having been on the other side of the world for over a year. Somehow, visiting this monument on this day brought me home.

I’ve always wanted to come here. It’s actually a National Park, and it’s located in the town of Palo, about 10 kms south of Tacloban City.

Tacloban Restaurants

This is what particularly impressed me about Tacloban. The business owners seem to be so motivated, and the service + quality standards are a cut above much of the rest of the country. I guess I was impressed by the food in Leyte and Samar in general. Are the ingredients better in this region, or do people just have tastes that fall more in line with mine? 

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina

Rewind back to March, 2013. I’m wandering the streets of Dumaguete (southern Philippines), with a hunger in my belly. I find a nice looking chicken restaurant, and try some Chicken Inasal.

Now fast forward to present day. I never imagined I would receive an invite to dine with the owner of the Tacloban branch, 3 years later. Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina serves family-style Filipino food in a comfortable garden-style environment.

(Photos of Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina)

(Assortment of Filipino foods)

The owner, Apple Anido Alagon was kind to prepare a nice selection of dishes and desserts for me to sample. Loved the Pineapple Mango Ginger Slush…all shakes and slushes are made with real fruit.  Also pictured is the dessert turon (fried banana) with langka (jackfruit) and ice cream.

Next is the house specialty. It looks like Bacolod-style Chicken Inasal, but with a pork BBQ stick included. It’s called Jo’s Chicken Inato Combo. Last, a plate of Zamboanga-style Spicy Shrimp.

Yes, there’s also unli (unlimited) rice.

Another one of Apple’s claims to fame is her Salted Egg Potato Chips. Apparently they have proven quite popular with the locals, even some being taken back home as pasalubong, or souvenir gifts. If it’s not obvious, Jo’s is well suited for Asian / Filipino taste buds.

Apple’s family has been in the Leyte region for generations, as is evident by the 90 year-old fountain on display in the garden. It was built by her great grandparents. She does quite a bit of community outreach as well, and is just a bright and cheery person in general. Stop by and check the place out!

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina: 241 P. Burgos St. +63 53 832 2042

Canto Fresco Pizza (Italian Influenced)

Pizza is one of my guilty pleasures, and the best way to cure my homesickness when I’m out on the road. However, it’s not always easy to find decent pizza in the Philippines. Well, Canto Fresco goes well beyond decent pizza, in fact it’s quite gourmet. I was particularly interested in the Mozzarella Bites I saw on the menu…

Oh my, they really hit the spot. It’s so nice to nice to have legit pizza with authentic ingredients like this. I can’t remember name of the one I ordered, but I’ve never tasted anything like it. Very festive! Haha. Honestly, I enjoyed it, but the herb flavor they used could have been toned down a tiny bit. It was unique, but a bit overpowering.

(Photos – Canto Fresco)

The carafe of mixed fruit and vegetable juices was delicious! Very refreshing. I was hoping to find a menu online so I could specify all items, but no luck. Anyhow, the ingredients are fresh, pizza is homemade (and hand-tossed), and the indoor / outdoor seating atmosphere is rustic and charming. Very much recommended!

Canto Fresco: 279 Burgos St. +63 53 523 9085

 (Continued below, but I recommend Booking.com if you need a good hotel in Tacloban)

Highside Bar & Restaurant

How perfect is it to visit a motorcycle-themed restaurant during my motorbike trip around Leyte? Highside was born from a passion for riding, but also from the tragedy of typhoon Haiyan. I sat with a few of the owners, Jo Jo and Mal, and listened to their story.

Mal has quite a harrowing tale of loss and survival himself. After the storm, the old friends would gather to have drinks and perhaps try to cheer each other up. They only had each other, as their wives and remaining family members had been relocated to safer areas. Like thousands of other Taclobanons, they had lost so much. Their city was devastated. What to do now?

Well, you know the expression…when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. In their case, they rebuilt. Not only that, but they channeled their love of motorcycling into a restaurant business, and even repurposed the remnants of vehicles destroyed in the storm. These pieces were used to decorate the bar, along with some of their own complete motorcycles, which were left inoperable.

The guys told me that before, people were more timid to invest their money in new businesses, or to spend it around town having a good time. However, the storm taught them that you never know what will happen tomorrow, so you might as well enjoy today.

(Click photos for more info about Highside)

I’ll never forget Jo Jo telling me “Money could do nothing for us. During the storm, Taclobanons were all struggling together. ..regardless of their income or status. That storm leveled the playing field”. A powerful reminder of this sits right on the wall. It’s the hood and trunk of a fancy BMW, which completely washed away in the storm. Oil barrels are now creative lounge seating, Hummer tires serve as giant beer coasters.

Speaking of beer, this is the best place to make it happen. The food is excellent, too. While not a single dish let me down, I especially loved the spicy jalapeño “lumpia”, called “Dynamite”. It’s jalapeño, cheese, chili, and ground beef – wrapped up lumpia style, and served with a tangy sauce.

I have to give it to these guys, they have done a great job making the most of this truly unfortunate situation. They felt like brothers to me, and I hope to visit them in their popular hangout again someday.

Highside Bar & Restaurant Gomez St @ Paterno +63 917 504 9452

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

HQ Food Park

While checking out the food stalls on Justice Romualdez Street, I met a guy who recommended a newly opened place south of town. It sounded familiar, and I realized I had passed it on my motorbike on the way to the MacArthur Landing site.

I came for an early dinner during the week (hence the smaller crowd). I imagine it gets pretty lively during the weekends. HQ is the first of its kind in Tacloban – a large food / gastro park, complete with drinks, darts,  and live music.

I love the graffiti mural of General MacArthur out front…due to its proximity to the landing site, that was a nice touch.

General MacArthur Graffiti & Grilled Pork Belly @ HQ

I found some super cheap and delicious liempo (pork belly) here…nice to have a kamayan dinner! That means you eat only with your hands. I loved that they serve the rice wrapped in coconut leaves…I think this is called puso in Cebu. Anyhow, HQ Food Park is open pretty late, and worth checking out!

HQ Food Park – Real St, Fatima Village

Cafe Lucia – Definitely Worth a Mention

This charming little cafe sits across from the Tacloban Astrodome. It serves delicious + affordable coffee and snacks. Really, I was impressed! Wish there were more places like it in the Philippines, and that I had more time to explore other menu options:)

Tacloban Hotels

(Agoda)

GV Hotel is a super cheap option right downtown. A good value, but you get what you pay for.

Ironwood Hotel is a classy place (more money, but still a great value). It has a very good reputation, with plenty of rave reviews.

(Booking.com)

If you prefer to use booking.com, check out more Tacloban City hotels here

How To Get There

Tacloban can be reached via boat or plane…but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila and Cebu. Again, if you need transportation when you arrive at the airport, check out Haven’s Car & Motorbike Rental.

Thanks for the Memories, Tacloban

This city is now high on my list of favorites in the Philippines. The people, the culture, and the food left a lasting impression on me. Big, big thanks to all who made this trip possible: Canto Fresco team, Mal, Jo Jo, Apple, Krizette and Rhoel…keep on making Tacloban proud.

I took this photo of the sunset at Tacloban Port. One of my favorites from this trip, and a great way to wrap up this piece.

I Shall  Return…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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The post A Tour of Tacloban City: Once Defined by Tragedy – Now, Ambition appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.