Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Tour Departs By Boat From Palompon Town

Due to the nature of my trip (weather…possible motorbike breakdowns…etc), unfortunately I couldn’t inform the tour company exactly when I would be there. I was impressed, because even at the last minute, they were able to throw an overnight camping trip together for me. What a dream come true!

I met my guide, Mrs. Warblitz at the Palompon port early the next morning. It was a bit cloudy, so I hoped the weather would clear for nice pictures.

It was only about a 45 minute boat trip, and before I knew it, I was already exploring the tiny island! I came across the rocky beach pictured above, and also a small island chapel...as well as a tree house on the far end. I heard that it’s private property, unfortunately.

I took a few photos and made some new friends…there were some tourist groups from the Philippines, and quite a large one from China. Soon, the clouds began to part, and I was thrilled to see the sun shine down on our little island paradise…

A Picture-Perfect White Sandbar

The tide was starting to come in by the time the sun came out…so the sandbar was slowly submerged by the sea. As you can see here, there is a native-style lifeguard tower, and the lifeguard is constantly kept busy chasing after tourists who try to cross the sandbar at high tide (you’re only allowed to cross when the sandbar is exposed).

There is a small mound of sand at the end of the sandbar…it becomes its own little island at high tide, too. It’s incredibly beautiful.

Blessed by powdery white sand and the shade of plenty of coconut trees, Kalanggaman island truly is a gem in the pacific. “Langgam” means “bird” in the local dialect, and the island gets that name from its shape, when viewed from above.

I climbed up in the nipa hut lifeguard tower for a better view of the sandbar.

The lifeguards were friendly, and I interviewed them a bit as they kept watch on the beach. Below is Nick, who came to Palompon because he has family here. With all the discipline of a military man, I had no doubt that Nick and the guys would keep the island safe throughout the night.

Some tourists recognized me on the beach, and requested a photo. Thanks for sending me the picture, Mrs. Suzette!

Overnight Camping on the Island

Here I am in my own little “bahay kubo”, or native hut. Made from bamboo and nipa, these are iconic in the Philippines. I just relaxed and got some reading done in my hammock. Not a bad life!

As you can see below, the tour company took good care of me. My trip was so last minute that they were not able to include an overnight tour guide. For me this was actually ideal…I love being on my own to take photos and explore. They introduced me to the island guards and the caretaker, and left me with all the supplies I could ever need…

I had a tent, a hammock, rain gear, coffee, tea, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of Filipino foods to last many meals. I even had nachos and beer…and there was enough food to share with new friends, which is the Filipino way. The team set up a beautiful campsite before departing the island. The boat would return to pick me up in the morning.

Being left on my own beautiful tropical island…this really is the kind of adventure I’ve always dreamed of. Guess what?  It gets better…

Snorkeling Off The Beach

A local told me where I might find some corals near the beach. You’ll have to ask for specifics once you’re there. In the fading afternoon light, I managed to get some underwater photography done. Here is a small school of colorful fish above the corals.

I took the these photos with my Olympus TG-5, The Amazon link is HERE. 

There were some beautiful flower-type coral gardens, with both hard and soft corals.

I also spotted a puffer fish, a large lionfish, and a beautiful giant clam. Not bad for an island which isn’t even known for its snorkeling! Something I’ll never forget is one of the young guards who wanted to go snorkeling with me, to make sure I was safe out there.

It was actually his first time using a snorkel & mask to see underwater! He was totally blown away, and I loved watching him experience it for the first time.

TIPS: Always wear a life vest, and do not swim or snorkel near the actual sandbar. The lifeguards told me the current is incredibly strong there. Also, please apply “reef safe” sunblock if you use it, as the chemical “oxybenzone” can kill or damage the coral reefs. I think Banana Boat for kids may be OK.

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Sunset on the Sandbar

By sunset, the tide had gone back down, and it was safe for us to walk along the sandbar and take photos. I can imagine the sunsets get even better than this on less cloudy days, too. Just magical.

The local guys and I listened to reggae music (I brought a tiny speaker) as we enjoyed the prepared food. Around 9pm they retired to the other end of the island, and I had the whole sandbar and coconut grove to myself. Perfect weather to sleep outside…so peaceful. I’ll never forget it.

How To Get To Kalanggaman

The most convenient way might be to take a cheap promo flight to Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, then join Leyte Gulf Travel and Tours. They provide vans for the 2-3 hour trip, and of course the boat and all your supplies.

Where to Stay

Overnight camping was pretty epic, but you can also stay in Palompon Town. I stayed at Asayas Pension Plaza…it was OK, but they don’t have online reservations.  Mrs. Warblitz or Mrs Ludette @ Leyte Gulf can make some good hotel recommendations for you if you need.

Again, many thanks to the team for providing this incredible experience! I’m not usually a “tours” kind of guy, but after experiencing everything they have to offer, I can see why it’s worth the extra money.  You can just enjoy your vacation…without the stress of planning so many things. They were super nice, and most importantly – professional.

For me, Kalanggaman Island is just incredible – not too developed or crowded…with a nice white-sand beach and plenty of shady coconut trees. Add to that friendly locals, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for paradise.

Really, this island is pure eye candy.

Enjoy, and be sure to check out my other Leyte posts!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Leyte, Philippines

My motorbike tour of Leyte Province

Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos

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The post KALANGGAMAN ISLAND: The Best Beach in the Philippines? appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

1st Stop in Southern Leyte – Peter’s Dive Resort

When Peter’s Dive Resort sent me an invite to come and experience the region for myself, I jumped at the chance. Fascinating corals and thousands of colorful fish lied in wait just below the surface…and that was just the snorkeling…

On a beautiful day, our boat “set sail” out on the open sea. Next stop, Napantao Dive sanctuary on Panaon Island – just across Sogod Bay from Peter’s Dive Resort.

Napantao Dive Sanctuary

We anchored the boat about 10 meters from a rugged, coconut tree lined beach. After the divemaster pointed me to the best corals, I put my life vest, mask and snorkel on and swam out.

Full disclosure: I joined a group of Peace Corps Volunteers who were all diving, but I just snorkeled on this trip.

Snorkeling over Surreal Coral Landscapes

Just off the beach where we docked, I found the coral garden above while snorkeling in about 2-3 meters of water. Pretty cool!  They kind of remind me of flowers. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this type of corals? I have had no luck in my research so far…

I have snorkeled all over the Philippines, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many fish. They were small, but neon blue…and shimmering beautifully in the sunlight above. I also took a photo of a unique brain coral tucked away in a coral “cubby hole”. Never seen anything like it.

I also stumbled upon a massive group of Clownfish. Must have been 30 + in one location! I’ve seen a lot of clownfish in the Philippines, but never more than 3 or 4 in one place. I wonder if this was a breeding site, or what?

Feeling the after affects of my strenuous rifr around Leyte, after about 40 minutes in the water I was tired, cold, and hungry. Luckily, back on the beach,  the team was preparing lunch with fresh caught fish grilling over a fire. The problem was that the wood was moist, and not so easy to burn.

Here’s comes good ol’ Filipino ingenuity to save the day….a dive instructor borrowed one of my fins to fan the flames!

Totally worked.

There was much more to the meal than just fish…we had a full spread with rice, veggies, and even chicken, I think. We definitely didn’t go hungry, I’ll tell you that much. This was a pretty good intro to to snorkeling and diving in southern Leyte, but the next day I was super excited to join a boat trip to Limasawa island, to the south.

Limasawa Island Dive Site

The weather on the first day was a bit cloudy, which put a damper on my photography – both above and below the water. The Limasawa trip was much better, though. Beautiful, sunny day out on the water!

I noticed in southern Leyte the local fishermen wear conical hats, similar to the ones worn in Vietnam. I know they do a good job keeping the sun of your head, but I didn’t see them worn anywhere else in the country, so it makes me wonder if there’s a story behind them.

These fishermen were pretty curious about me taking pictures. At one point they started waiving their paddle in the air to get my attention for a shot! Haha.

Limasawa Island (which means “5 Wives” in Filipino) is supposedly the site of the very first Catholic mass in the Philippines, undertaken by father Pedro de Valderrama, sailing with the fleet of the explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

Anyhow, the island itself is just stunning. We weren’t able to get off the boat and climb up to the marker cross on the hill (I read about it), but the turquoise sea and white sand beaches dotting the island were just beautiful.

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Coral Reef + Fish @ Limasawa Snorkeling Site

This was one of the more colorful and fascinating coral formations I came across. If you’re wondering, I took all these photos with my underwater camera, the Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE

(More photos)

I wish I knew more about the fish and coral species, so I could share the names with you. If you know, please leave a comment! I know I saw some nice table corals  + other hard corals…as well as some beautiful soft corals, and even a Banded Sea Krait (snake)!

They are highly venomous, but also highly harmless…haha. They pretty much ignore you. If you were unlucky enough to step on one you could *possibly* get bit. Even then, apparently they don’t always release their venom. Beautiful creatures, in any case.

These last 2 photos are my favorites from this snorkeling trip. Above is a male clownfish protecting his nest in a beautifully sunlit anemone.

Below…I have no idea what this leopard-patterned fish is called. I’m hoping somebody can tell me. It’s the first one I’ve ever seen…so striking! I think it’s some kind of a bottom feeder. * I just found out that this could be a Leopard Blenny…or some other type of blenny perhaps? I wonder if any of you have any ideas?

How To Get To Southern Leyte

You can take flights from Cebu or Manila to the smaller airports of Tacloban or Ormoc (that one’s further away). If you’re a bit flexible with schedule, you might find a great deal on a promo flight from Cebu Pacific Air. There are also fast ferries departing from Cebu (about a 3 hour trip) + a 45 minute bus transfer to the Resort.

If you’re adventurous, you could rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s transport in Tacloban and drive yourself!

Big thanks to Shelani and the Peter’s Dive Resort team! As a lot of dive resorts tend to be,  it’s pretty simple…but a good value with top notch food & service. Plus, the snorkeling and diving was fantastic. Definitely recommended.

Be sure to check out my other Leyte posts, too…

My Massive Motorbike Trip Around Leyte Province

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

A Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour – Leyte, Philippines

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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The post Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos – Leyte, Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

Open For Business – & Better Than Ever

I know it’s been over 3 years…but I guess I didn’t expect this much progress. The Philippines is a country close to my heart, and it has many strengths. However, if I’m being honest, progress isn’t really one of them. Like the U.S., there is so much political infighting. Progress moves at a snail’s pace…if things are even moving forward at all.

However, Tacloban looked great. It was bustling with shops and businesses, and the quality of goods and services went far beyond my expectations. It’s not a large city, but somehow it feels more sophisticated like one.

I had a motorbike very generously provided by Haven’s Tourist Transport near the airport. Rhoel, the owner, was a great guy. He gave me a quick tour of the area before I took the bike out myself.

I stopped by a few places downtown. The first was beautiful Hotel Alejandro, which dates back to prewar times. There is an impressive exhibit with hundreds of historical photos on the walls. After that, I checked out Sto Niño Church, which is a vibrant white color now that it has been restored post-typhoon.

(More Tacloban street photos)

Next was the Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, a rest home built for former President Marcos’ wife Imelda. Apparently her bathroom was larger than most of the citizens’ homes, and she actually ended up staying in the place only once.

I was able to do some street photography downtown, where I captured the hustle and bustle of the jeepneys, trikes, and commuters. Last, I visited the Anibong Memorial, or Yolanda Shrine. Many cargo ships washed ashore during the storm, but people began visiting and taking photos of this one in particular. Knowing this, the government decided to turn it into a monument – to memorialize the victims of the super typhoon.

The MacArthur Landing Site

Leyte is famous with WWII history buffs. That’s because just south of Tacloban, you can find the site of General Douglas MacArthur’s famous return to the Philippines. The American general had been forced to flee from the Japanese previously, but he kept his promise – and these statues memorialize his unit’s return.

It was quite surreal for me, because I ended up here on the 4th a July, our Independence Day in the U.S. It’s a time of celebration with friends and family, which I was desperately missing, having been on the other side of the world for over a year. Somehow, visiting this monument on this day brought me home.

I’ve always wanted to come here. It’s actually a National Park, and it’s located in the town of Palo, about 10 kms south of Tacloban City.

Tacloban Restaurants

This is what particularly impressed me about Tacloban. The business owners seem to be so motivated, and the service + quality standards are a cut above much of the rest of the country. I guess I was impressed by the food in Leyte and Samar in general. Are the ingredients better in this region, or do people just have tastes that fall more in line with mine? 

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina

Rewind back to March, 2013. I’m wandering the streets of Dumaguete (southern Philippines), with a hunger in my belly. I find a nice looking chicken restaurant, and try some Chicken Inasal.

Now fast forward to present day. I never imagined I would receive an invite to dine with the owner of the Tacloban branch, 3 years later. Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina serves family-style Filipino food in a comfortable garden-style environment.

(Photos of Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina)

(Assortment of Filipino foods)

The owner, Apple Anido Alagon was kind to prepare a nice selection of dishes and desserts for me to sample. Loved the Pineapple Mango Ginger Slush…all shakes and slushes are made with real fruit.  Also pictured is the dessert turon (fried banana) with langka (jackfruit) and ice cream.

Next is the house specialty. It looks like Bacolod-style Chicken Inasal, but with a pork BBQ stick included. It’s called Jo’s Chicken Inato Combo. Last, a plate of Zamboanga-style Spicy Shrimp.

Yes, there’s also unli (unlimited) rice.

Another one of Apple’s claims to fame is her Salted Egg Potato Chips. Apparently they have proven quite popular with the locals, even some being taken back home as pasalubong, or souvenir gifts. If it’s not obvious, Jo’s is well suited for Asian / Filipino taste buds.

Apple’s family has been in the Leyte region for generations, as is evident by the 90 year-old fountain on display in the garden. It was built by her great grandparents. She does quite a bit of community outreach as well, and is just a bright and cheery person in general. Stop by and check the place out!

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina: 241 P. Burgos St. +63 53 832 2042

Canto Fresco Pizza (Italian Influenced)

Pizza is one of my guilty pleasures, and the best way to cure my homesickness when I’m out on the road. However, it’s not always easy to find decent pizza in the Philippines. Well, Canto Fresco goes well beyond decent pizza, in fact it’s quite gourmet. I was particularly interested in the Mozzarella Bites I saw on the menu…

Oh my, they really hit the spot. It’s so nice to nice to have legit pizza with authentic ingredients like this. I can’t remember name of the one I ordered, but I’ve never tasted anything like it. Very festive! Haha. Honestly, I enjoyed it, but the herb flavor they used could have been toned down a tiny bit. It was unique, but a bit overpowering.

(Photos – Canto Fresco)

The carafe of mixed fruit and vegetable juices was delicious! Very refreshing. I was hoping to find a menu online so I could specify all items, but no luck. Anyhow, the ingredients are fresh, pizza is homemade (and hand-tossed), and the indoor / outdoor seating atmosphere is rustic and charming. Very much recommended!

Canto Fresco: 279 Burgos St. +63 53 523 9085

 (Continued below, but I recommend Booking.com if you need a good hotel in Tacloban)

Highside Bar & Restaurant

How perfect is it to visit a motorcycle-themed restaurant during my motorbike trip around Leyte? Highside was born from a passion for riding, but also from the tragedy of typhoon Haiyan. I sat with a few of the owners, Jo Jo and Mal, and listened to their story.

Mal has quite a harrowing tale of loss and survival himself. After the storm, the old friends would gather to have drinks and perhaps try to cheer each other up. They only had each other, as their wives and remaining family members had been relocated to safer areas. Like thousands of other Taclobanons, they had lost so much. Their city was devastated. What to do now?

Well, you know the expression…when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. In their case, they rebuilt. Not only that, but they channeled their love of motorcycling into a restaurant business, and even repurposed the remnants of vehicles destroyed in the storm. These pieces were used to decorate the bar, along with some of their own complete motorcycles, which were left inoperable.

The guys told me that before, people were more timid to invest their money in new businesses, or to spend it around town having a good time. However, the storm taught them that you never know what will happen tomorrow, so you might as well enjoy today.

(Click photos for more info about Highside)

I’ll never forget Jo Jo telling me “Money could do nothing for us. During the storm, Taclobanons were all struggling together. ..regardless of their income or status. That storm leveled the playing field”. A powerful reminder of this sits right on the wall. It’s the hood and trunk of a fancy BMW, which completely washed away in the storm. Oil barrels are now creative lounge seating, Hummer tires serve as giant beer coasters.

Speaking of beer, this is the best place to make it happen. The food is excellent, too. While not a single dish let me down, I especially loved the spicy jalapeño “lumpia”, called “Dynamite”. It’s jalapeño, cheese, chili, and ground beef – wrapped up lumpia style, and served with a tangy sauce.

I have to give it to these guys, they have done a great job making the most of this truly unfortunate situation. They felt like brothers to me, and I hope to visit them in their popular hangout again someday.

Highside Bar & Restaurant Gomez St @ Paterno +63 917 504 9452

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HQ Food Park

While checking out the food stalls on Justice Romualdez Street, I met a guy who recommended a newly opened place south of town. It sounded familiar, and I realized I had passed it on my motorbike on the way to the MacArthur Landing site.

I came for an early dinner during the week (hence the smaller crowd). I imagine it gets pretty lively during the weekends. HQ is the first of its kind in Tacloban – a large food / gastro park, complete with drinks, darts,  and live music.

I love the graffiti mural of General MacArthur out front…due to its proximity to the landing site, that was a nice touch.

General MacArthur Graffiti & Grilled Pork Belly @ HQ

I found some super cheap and delicious liempo (pork belly) here…nice to have a kamayan dinner! That means you eat only with your hands. I loved that they serve the rice wrapped in coconut leaves…I think this is called puso in Cebu. Anyhow, HQ Food Park is open pretty late, and worth checking out!

HQ Food Park – Real St, Fatima Village

Cafe Lucia – Definitely Worth a Mention

This charming little cafe sits across from the Tacloban Astrodome. It serves delicious + affordable coffee and snacks. Really, I was impressed! Wish there were more places like it in the Philippines, and that I had more time to explore other menu options:)

Tacloban Hotels

(Agoda)

GV Hotel is a super cheap option right downtown. A good value, but you get what you pay for.

Ironwood Hotel is a classy place (more money, but still a great value). It has a very good reputation, with plenty of rave reviews.

(Booking.com)

If you prefer to use booking.com, check out more Tacloban City hotels here

How To Get There

Tacloban can be reached via boat or plane…but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila and Cebu. Again, if you need transportation when you arrive at the airport, check out Haven’s Car & Motorbike Rental.

Thanks for the Memories, Tacloban

This city is now high on my list of favorites in the Philippines. The people, the culture, and the food left a lasting impression on me. Big, big thanks to all who made this trip possible: Canto Fresco team, Mal, Jo Jo, Apple, Krizette and Rhoel…keep on making Tacloban proud.

I took this photo of the sunset at Tacloban Port. One of my favorites from this trip, and a great way to wrap up this piece.

I Shall  Return…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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The post A Tour of Tacloban City: Once Defined by Tragedy – Now, Ambition appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

A Pristine Beach, Just Minutes From Romblon Town

Romblon Island, the middle of 3 islands in Romblon province, fast became one of my favorites anywhere in the Philippines. It’s off the beaten tourist path…I rented a motorbike and circled the entire island, taking photographs along the way. Conveniently, Bonbon Beach is just a 10 minute drive south from Romblon Town proper. You’ll follow the scenic coastline (pictured below).

With the help of some top secret info I received from the locals, I was able to locate the trail head and park my motorbike. A brief but beautiful trek through the jungle led me to an opening.

By the way, you can browse hotels in Romblon HERE

I found a few children playing here, on what turned out to be called “Margie’s Beach”. There are 3 beaches connected to each other: Tiamban Beach (to the left), Margie’s Beach (pictured below), and Bonbon Beach, which is to the right.

Below are the small rocks you must climb over to access Bonbon Beach and sandbar. Romblon province is known as “the marble capital of the Philippines”, and if you look closely at these rocks, you’ll see some patches of white marble embedded there. Anyhow, I was excited to continue to Bonbon, because as you can see, it’s quite beautiful.

I climbed up and sat under the shade of a coconut tree. What a view.

I suppose Bonbon Beach was named after this incredible “bonbon” shaped island at the other end of the sandbar. Unfortunately it was high tide, so the sandbar is not so visible in the picture below. I was able to get some natural framing with these palm tree silhouettes, though.

A word of warning: There are very sharp thorns in the brush along the beach. They come from the bush / tree below…the one on the left side of the photo. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this species? Anyhow, these thorns are LONG, and they can pierce bare feet or thin flip flops if you’re not careful.  Just be mindful.

I swam and snorkeled here (with my own mask). The pool pictured below is perfect for swimming, but there isn’t a whole lot to see in terms of corals or fish. The sandbar is located to the right of here, and on the other side of the sandbar is a strong current. Swimming there (especially alone) was not recommended to me.

Anyhow, there is a beautiful view of “bonbon island”, and you’ll notice a few starfish here and there, which makes for a nice photo. I set my hammock up in the little bit of shade I could find and took a nap. I would return to this beach 3 more times before I left Romblon Island, and I only ran into a total of 4 other people. I had the beach to myself for the vast majority of the time.

I headed back to the trail at Margie’s Beach, and found this friendly group of local kids playing in the water. I got back on my motorbike and continued around the island…but made sure to return for sunset.

Sunset on the Sandbar

The sun will go down behind the mountains, but you can still catch a spectacular sunset here. Pictured below are the silhouettes of a couple walking on the sandbar, while a fisherman in a small boat paddles nearby.

(Continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

I was so happy to catch a nice sunset like this on Bonbon beach. The tall coconut trees provided a perfect silhouette of paradise. These photos will keep me dreaming of Romblon for years to come…

If you’re wondering, I captured these images with my little Ricoh GR II camera. That link is for Lazada (Asia), but you can find it on Amazon HERE.

How To Get To Bonbon Beach

As mentioned before, the beach is just a few minutes south of Romblon Town proper. I actually walked there, but keep in mind that it is 3 or 4kms, and quite hot. I walked because I love to take photographs along the way. 

Apparently the reason it’s hard to find is because the land between the beach and the road is privately owned, and they have fenced off the property. It would appear that the beach is private, too…but from what I hear, nobody is allowed to own the actual beaches in the Philippines.

So basically you’ll be trespassing if you cross the private land, but if you access Tiamban or Margie’s Beach and walk to Bonbon Beach, it is perfectly OK. At least, that’s the story I heard:)

If you’re in town and you rent a motorbike (I recommend asking JD&G Italian Restaurant), just pay attention to all the no trespassing signs…you’ll start seeing them on the right side as the road gets more shady. Just before you go up a small hill, the signs end and you can find the tiny jungle trail on the right. You may see a trike or motorbike parked there.

This short trail will take you to Margie’s Beach, where you can easily access Bonbon Beach as well. Please pack out all your trash, and enjoy this incredible place!

Looking for lodging? Stone Creek House is my recommendation for an awesome place to stay in Romblon Town. More general info on Romblon Island can be found in the related links below…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

 Related Links

Romblon Island Photos: A Road Trip in the Heart of the Philippines

Snorkeling @ Agpanabat Turtle Sanctuary in Romblon, Romblon

My Detailed Comparison of the Sony RX100 vs the Ricoh GR II

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  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

My First Glimpse of the San Juanico Bridge

The motorbike for this trip was generously provided by Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban, Leyte. Being just across the water from Samar, this gave me the chance to ride across the famous San Juanico Bridge. It snakes its way across the sea, connecting the 2 giant islands. Elegant and picturesque, it’s also the longest of its kind in the Philippines.

I rode north and thought I’d easily make it to Calbayog City before sunset. Wrong. By the time I finally did arrive, I was tired, hungry, and quite sore from the ride. The problem was, the city was in chaos. There was no power anywhere, and it was rush hour…so there were cars, jeeps, trikes, and people everywhere.

An Earthquake Left Us in the Dark

I was too hungry to think straight. I stopped at a bank to ask how to get to a hotel I read about. The guard gave directions, and then explained that there was no electricity because of a big earthquake in Leyte, where I just came from. The entire region (both huge islands) was pitch black. Crazy. I rode right through it – I didn’t feel a thing.

Unfortunately my hotel was booked, because everybody was clamoring for rooms with electricity (some hotels had generators). I lucked out and got the last room at a clean, modern place called Meaco Hotel. I really needed it. Staff was great, and I was lucky to find some tasty Bicolano food next door at an eatery. They were nice, too. I’m going to like Samar, I thought to myself.

Samar Landscapes

The next morning, I was back on the road…heading to Bangon and Tarangban Falls, about an hour away. The clouds slowly began to clear, and I parked the bike for a quick photo shoot. Nice bike, huh? It’s a Yamaha NMAX 155cc. Probably the most comfortable scooter you will ever ride…

My Filipino friends laugh when I tell them how much I love banana trees. We just don’t have anything like these back home in California! They look so lush and tropical to me. I particularly loved this vista looking out to some islands in the sea.

I didn’t know it, but by the time I took this picture, I had already missed the turn for Bangon Falls. This colorful waterway full of fishing boats was located about 2kms north of where I needed to be.

I guess this was some sort of temporary wooden bridge, but I wanted to take a photo to show you how rough the roads can be. There were construction sites and one-lane detours everywhere! Anyhow, a huge shipping truck came around the corner behind me, so I had to jump back on the bike and and get out of the way pretty quick! Haha.

That Time Nathan Allen Broke Down in Allen, Samar

Ever since I looked at a map of northern Samar and noticed a town called “Allen” (my family name), I knew I had to visit it. Well, right as I pulled in to town, something tried to keep me there, because my brand new motorbike wouldn’t start anymore! The locals pointed to a vulcanizing / mechanic shop up the road, so I pushed the bike there. 

The guys there were nice and helpful. Soon, we had attracted the attention of some curious onlookers. At first I thought something was wrong with the safety feature that’s cuts the engine when the side stand is down…it turns out it was super simple – the battery cable had just come loose! Still, I gave kuya a bit of money for his help. He was reluctant to accept, but I insisted. 

Some of the others were very kind to lead me to the Municipal Hall, where I hoped to find more information about the town of Allen.

Some very enthusiastic employees greeted me at the Municipal Hall. They were excited, and convinced that I must be related to the famous Allen. Haha. It turns out the town was named after Major General Henry Tureman Allen, who was Military Governor of Leyte in 1901. Similar to the Lewis and Clark expedition, he was also famous for having explored over 2,000kms of Alaskan wilderness in the 1880s.

Anyhow, no relation to me (that I know of)…but a good experience in the town of Allen anyhow. Thanks, guys!

As I continued east from Allen, I came across this beautiful “floating” native village. I believe it was near San Jose, in northern Samar.

An Encounter in a Cemetery

I also stopped to take photos of a beautiful old cemetery tucked away in the jungle. There was nobody around, and I ventured inside as the afternoon sun started fading. I lost track of my surroundings, as I was super focused on getting the best shots in the challenging light.

Suddenly I noticed a small figure out of the corner of my eye. I looked up and saw a small head disappear behind a tree. Trying to not show any fear, I walked confidently over to the tree and looked behind it…but there was nothing there.

Strange. I was positive I had seen it. I nervously took a few more shots on my way out, then prepared to leave by the side of the road. Just before I got on the motorbike, I saw a young boy watching me from the gravestones. I smiled and waived as I rode away…he waived back. I wonder what his story is.

Anything Could Cross the Highway: Kids, Chickens, Water Buffalo…Wait. Airplanes??

I was completely exhausted by the time I started nearing Catarman. It seemed like a repeat of the chaos in Calbayog…dark city streets full of people and traffic…and at one point all the vehicles were funneled through a small hole in a giant wall. Suddenly it opened back up to a huge, dark expanse, with pavement stretching in every direction. It was so odd. It almost seemed…like…the road was crossing a giant airplane runway.

Well, today on a Google Satellite Map, I confirmed that the road does in fact cross the runway of Catarman National Airport!  Haha. I realized that riding a motorbike on an airplane runway is probably a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Anyhow, hotels were all booked once again, but I was lucky to find a cheap room at Mijares Hotel, tucked away on a side street. Had to deal with the heat when the generator cycled off every few hours, but that’s life in the provinces. I was already used to it. In the morning I found an eatery nearby called Downtown Silog…

A Toasted Siopao Discovery in Catarman

There are some foods that I really love in the Philippines. One is Emong’s Malunggay Pandesal (Moringa leaf bread). The other is Toasted Siopao, which I tried in Naga City for the first time. I was surprised to see it served here at Downtown Silog, and this version is pretty different. It’s delicious, sweet like a doughnut…and you HAVE TO TRY IT.

A Yamaha Dealer – Right When You Need One

How lucky is this? Right as I turned onto the road to Calbayog, the “change oil” light came on. I promised to take good care of this sleek motorbike, but I wasn’t sure where I could find a trustworthy shop way out here. BOOM. I literally looked up and saw a Yamaha Dealership & Service Center right across the street.

The owner of Haven’s Transport uses this bike personally, and he really customized it. The guys at the shop were really drooling over it. A resort owner in Leyte loved it so much that he joked he would steal it in the middle of the night. Haha.  Anyway, this team got the job done right…and right away. I really appreciated that.

N.P.A. Ambush?

The “shortcut” road to Calbayog was much more remote than I thought it would be. It really took me into the hills and countryside. Soon, I started seeing these graffiti-type signs on the side of the road. They were painted on old wooden planks, and written in the local dialect. Littered with exclamation points, the only part I could understand was “NPA…AMBUSH!!!“

The NPA “National People’s Army” is a rebel group who hide in the mountains. I think they’re considered terrorists by the government. Anyway, these signs were clearly meant for people on the road, and each one seemed to get more and more serious as I kept riding. I don’t ever feel unsafe in the Philippines, but I started to wonder if there was something I didn’t know about this little road…

In the end, it was fine. I’m not sure if it’s true, but somebody told me that those signs were just the community trying to convince the rebels to come out from the hills and give themselves up. Anyhow, the road opened back up, and I got finally made it to Bangon Falls in Calbayog. Incredible place, the link to that blog post is at the bottom of this page…

I continued south after photographing the waterfalls. It was getting late (and raining, of course), so I stopped in Calbayog for an overnight at a place called Marju Krisel Hotel and Resort. There was quite a party going on there! So many families eating, drinking, and swimming in the pool. My room was super cheap, I was surprised. https://lap.lazada.com/banner/dynamic.php?banner_id=59eaefa8a1213&theme=1&p=1

The next day, I hoped to make it all the way to the coastal town of Catbalogan. On my way there, I stopped at a restaurant called Marcial’s Grille. This was recommended to me by an American guy who lives in Samar. They serve one of the best pork liempo (belly) I have ever tried!

Photos From Catbalogan

I came across these friendly locals when I pulled the motorbike over to take photos of Buri Island, out at sea.

Lined with huts and fishing boats, this “floating village” is on the outskirts of Catbalogan, near the Bus Interchange. After this, I explored Buri Island a bit, then continued on to Catbalogan City proper.  There, I was able to visit the tourist center and also meet with Mr. Joni Bonafacio, Samar’s resident cavemaster. He runs an outdoor / adventure shop called Trexplore.

Seeing all his Samar photos and expeditions on the walls, it was pretty clear that I barely even scratched the surface on my trip. Great guy, I enjoyed meeting him. Being that it’s one of Samar’s claims to fame, I do hope to try caving on my next trip. A far-flung place I was sad to miss was Pinipisikan Falls and Sulpan Cave. 

Rice Field Landscapes in Paranas

One my way south to Marabut, I came across these beautiful rice paddies in Paranas. It’s been my dream to see the famous Banaue Rice Terraces at a vibrant, early stage like this. Instead, I always seem to end up there near harvest time, when the greens turn to brown. Anyhow, quite a picturesque little scene on the side of the road.

Saob Cave in Basey (Famous For Banig)

This cave area features the famous weavers who popularized banig, or Ticog Grass floormats. It’s a peaceful place, and as you can see, nobody was around when I explored the cave in the afternoon. I suppose it made the experience that much more surreal.

Marabut’s Fascinating Limestone Landscapes

This was the highlight of my trip around Samar. These limestone rock formations and cliffs give the area a feel similar to El Nido. I absolutely loved it here.

It still has it’s own character, though. To be honest, I’m shocked that I didn’t hear more about this place sooner. I guess it’s not as famous as northern Palawan because it doesn’t have white sand beaches. As a photographer / adventurer though, it has everything I’m after. Definitely a place I want to come back and explore more.

You can see more of Marabut’s exotic limestone rock formations in my Caluwayan Beach Resort Post. I loved staying there.

How To Get To Samar

Domestic flights to Calbayog City depart from Manila and Cebu. I think Cebu Pacific even flies to Catarman, the airport with a highway running through it! Haha.

You can also take a page from my playbook – fly to Tacloban and rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s …and start an adventure of your own! The owner Rhoel is a great guy.

Where to Stay

Definitely check out Caluwayan Beach Resort, or for Calbayog City, check out  the options below:

Thanks for seeing this post through to the end…I know it was a long one! On this ride I probably covered 2,000kms through Leyte and Samar. Hard to believe. By the way, if you try caving in Samar, please send me your pictures!

Also be sure to check out more of my posts from Samar below…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Samar, Philippines

Bangon & Tarangban Falls – Calbayog, Samar

The Exotic Charm of Caluwayan Beach Resort – Marabut, Samar

Social Media

The post SAMAR By Motorbike – An Epic, Solo Road Trip in the Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Legend states that the Hindu mother goddess gave a spear to Murugan, the god of war. With this spear, she helped him destroy an evil demon.

Once a year on the full moon, Tamil Hindus around the world commemorate this during the fascinating Thaipusam Festival. They do so by fasting for 48 hours, and carrying heavy pots of milk on their heads. Others, incredibly, by “spearing” their own skin.

Some even wear heavy, elaborate metal cages that are literally “fish hooked” and chained into their bodies – in up to HUNDREDS of places. Here are more photos of these fascinating rituals…

Nighttime Festival Photos

Singapore’s procession starts quite late on the eve of the full moon.  Devotees gather at Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in “Little India”. The first group of worshipers depart carry pots of milk or offerings (paal kudam) on their heads.

For many, this is where the (intentional) suffering begins. Men and women stand and walk in this position for many hours. Friends and relatives join them on the festival route (3kms – 5kms), to offer not just moral support, but physical support as well. As you can see, it’s quite exhausting.

This suffering is seen as a way to pay back the “debts” owed to lord Murugan.

However, not everybody seemed to be suffering. Many devotees appeared to be in good spirits, laughing and visiting with each other along the way. Perhaps they were just getting started on the route, and exhaustion hadn’t set in yet.

This man is carrying a “kavadi”, a colorful, intricate cage that rests on (or all around) you. He is burdening himself with this weight to assist in the healing of a loved one…or perhaps to repay his own spiritual debts.

This seems to be a simple, unattached kavadi. As you’ll see later, others are much larger, and are often hooked directly into the flesh.

The devotees continue down Serangoon Road until they get backed up waiting to cross Bukit Timah and head downtown. This was a great place to photograph the group as a whole.

I can only imagine how painful it must be to stay locked in this position, carrying these heavy milk pots for hours and hours…

Kavadi Photos in Daylight

The attendees walk through the early morning, and the procession ends at Sri Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road. I opted to go home and rest before returning the next day for more photos.

I returned the next morning to a beautiful, but oppressively warm day.

Here you can see a kavadi “cage” that is pierced directly into the skin of this worshiper. Countless chains are “fish hooked” into his chest, and decorative spikes have been pierced through his tongue and cheeks.

I believe even his ears are chained to the kavadi poles on his sides.

The Kavadi Attam “Burden Dance”

As if this burden wasn’t enough to bear already, these men stop along the procession route and dance under the weight of their chained bondage. The soft, traditional voices being played through the speakers are cut, and replaced with thunderous, energetic drumming and singing.

Again, the route is 3km – 5kms, depending on the festival location. In the harsh tropical sun, it’s downright grueling.

However, it is also a colorful, lively affair…the crowd claps and sings along, taking photos and video.  Amazingly, the performers almost seem to enjoy it…

Almost.

Women & Children Join The Procession

Men aren’t the only ones showing their strength and courage. I noted hundreds of women carrying milk pots along the route, and quite a few with pierced tongues and cheeks as well. The woman above even appears to have a pierced forehead…

While there were many children simply walking alongside their parents, a few went the extra mile and carried a burden for themselves. I think they must be 18 or 21 years old to take part in the piercing, however. https://lap.lazada.com/banner/dynamic.php?banner_id=5a7a80633bf5f&theme=1&p=1

This is where the photos get a bit graphic. These are not just fishing hooks – they are massive, industrial-grade meat hooks, pierced and looped through the skin of the back. For what I assume is continual suffering, they are attached to ropes, and kept taught during the entirety of the festival.

It was quite surreal to see so many smiles amidst the suffering. Since they were out in public, part of me wondered if attendees are encouraged to “soften” things a bit by smiling for tourists when they see them. It would make sense, because some uninformed tourists might mistake a festival that brings people closer to God for one of pure torture instead.

Yes, this is religious devotion at its most intense.

This is the front view of the man with hooks in his back – carrying on a conversation like it’s just a normal day…astonishing.

This group was accompanied by a large chariot, which blesses the crowds’ offering plates as it passes by. These plates are filled with fruits and sweets.

Perhaps the heat and exhaustion is just too much for some. Even in a “resting” position, the ropes are pulled tight to continue the devotion.

Those without a “rope puller” often attach heavy fruits to their hooks – the weight adding to the pain and suffering. Presumably this is for more blessings / attention from lord Murugan.

(Continued below…but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me)

What an honor to be a guest, and witness such intense cultural traditions.

More Info About Thaipusam

Of course, Tamil people originated from the state of Tamil Nadu, India, so the Thaipusam Festival is not just restricted to Singapore…it takes place anywhere there is a sizeable Tamil Hindu population.

I learned that in Tamil, “Thai” means month, and “pusam” means star. The festival always takes place during the full moon in the month of Thai, which falls in January / February.

Photography is permitted, assuming you are respectful and avoid interrupting the procession.

Where to Stay

Little India is actually a great place to find more affordable hotels in Singapore. There is a colorful “backpackers district” there, but of course, Singapore has options at all price points. If you’re looking for an modern, extravagant hotel, you can find that as well. Check out Booking.com:

Despite the (seemingly) brutal ritual, the participants and organisers were all in great spirits. They were very kind to me (and all guests), offering free water, juice, and snacks. I have to give it up to the police as well…it must be difficult running such a massive, cultural  festival through the heart of gleaming downtown Singapore, and on a workday no less.

It was masterfully done, and a joy to attend.

To those who still say Singapore has no culture, I offer this post…and many more to come:) This is part of the reason I love this country so much. You can simply walk through the city – and leave feeling like you’ve traveled the world.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Of My Singapore Photography

Dynamic Street Photography in Singapore

Festive Street Photography in Singapore’s Chinatown

Street Photography in Singapore’s “Little India”

Social Media

The post Thaipusam: A Deeply Religious Flesh-Piercing Festival in Singapore appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.