By Nathan Allen

Well that can be good, too…and of course I have plenty of those shots. However, I want this post to be different. My goal was to create a snapshot “time capsule”…a window into the daily life of historic Manila, in 2017.

To accomplish this, I decided to take my tiny Sony RX100III on a photo walk. I went during the week, to experience less tourists and more locals. After lunch, I boarded a packed MRT train in Mandaluyong, and started the long journey to Divisoria.

The Bustling Outdoor Market of Divisoria.

The crowds in the market were thick, even during the week. This place is famous for the best deals – on almost everything. There are pickpockets in Divisoria, so I was careful to avoid them. Knock on wood, I’ve never had a bad experience in 4 years exploring the Philippines.

I also popped into a few camera stores while here. Hidalgo Street is also famous for great deals on camera equipment. In fact, this is where my little RX100 came from! I think my baby was happy to be back for some Manila street photography.

The shot below is a good example of what I’m talking about. This street food vendor didn’t notice me until after I took the photo. Then he let out a big smile and posed for a picture. Super nice guy.

I studied the afternoon light, and tried to use the sun / shade drama to my advantage.

I am a landscape photographer at heart, so I actually prefer the wider lens of the Sony RX100III. It’s 24mm, and I guess this makes me somewhat of a unique street shooter. Even 28mm is too wide for most “street ‘togs”.

Quiapo Church – Now Almost 600 Years Old.

This iconic church is one of Manila’s oldest landmarks. As you can see, there are many vendors selling candles to the devotees who attend services there. Originally made of bamboo and nipa, the church dates all the way back to 1586!

Again, I enjoyed how the afternoon light perfectly illuminated the church, while leaving the crowds blanketed in shadows.

Escolta Street, One of Manila’s Oldest.

After Quiapo, I started making my way to Escolta Street, another historic part of the city. There were no sidewalks in this section, so I actually had to walk with the street traffic to pass by. Of course, anybody who knows Manila is used to doing this now and then.

I love to walk. I have explored countless regions of Manila on foot, and at all hours of the day and night. People are quite surprised to see me in areas that are believed to be unsafe, but as mentioned before, I have never had a problem. A friendly smile and bit of Tagalog (the local language) goes a long way.

(continued below)

This is a “Jeepney”, an old military vehicle repurposed for transporting the public. I spotted this one while crossing the Jones Bridge. The Japanese bombed this structure back in WWII. One of the busiest bridges in the country, it was repaired in 1945 with the help of the U.S.

Manila Street Photography – Historic Intramuros

The old Spanish fort of Intramuros is just across the Jones Bridge. By now it was very late in the afternoon, and the sun was just about to dip below the fort walls. Below, I was lucky to capture 2 horse drawn carriages, called “kalesas”, beautifully lit by the sun.

Pictured here is an ancestral house. I love the cobblestone used to paved these streets. It’s one of my favorite part of Intramuros, and even though I don’t have any pictures from this trip, check out beautiful San Agustin church nearby! It’s by far my favorite in all the Philippines.

This is a less touristy street on the outskirts of Intramuros, and I was lucky to catch this moment. The late afternoon sun created a lot of dramatic shadows on the streets.  This my favorite picture from this Manila street photography series.

I also toured Fort Santiago while here (again, no pictures), and by the time the light had all but faded completely, I was starving. There was an eatery nearby, and had a great time sharing a table with some locals.

Fiesta at Sundown

Afterward, I was lucky to stumble upon a fiesta there in Intramuros! People were kind to invite me to join their groups celebrating the event.

We had a lot of fun (perhaps a bit too much)…late into the night, I even got on the microphone and sang Frank Sinatra’s “My Way” right there on the crowded streets! I don’t know if I did OK, or if the locals were just 3 sheets to the wind, but they clapped and cheered as I reached the chorus and belted out the ending.

I’ll never forget those guys, Diego, Juneer, Wendel, Jun, Ian…I don’t know if they’ll ever see this, but thanks for taking good care of me. I told you I’ll return to Intramuros…and I promise you, someday I will.

For those who are curious, all shots were taken with my Sony RX100III pocket camera. . Sony is not a partner of mine. However, if you use the links above, it will help me continue providing stories like this.

In closing, I hope you enjoyed my Manila street photography series. You can also check out my Singapore street photography – it’s a change of pace.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Related Links:

Low Light & Night Photography Tests w/ Sony RX100 III

Sony RX100 vs Ricoh GR II – Which Pocket Cam is King?

Street Photography in Chinatown, Singapore w/ Sony RX100 III

Like my page to follow along with me  – Nathan

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Manila Street Photography w/ RX100 – The Beauty & The Chaos appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

Open For Business – & Better Than Ever

I know it’s been over 3 years…but I guess I didn’t expect this much progress. The Philippines is a country close to my heart, and it has many strengths. However, if I’m being honest, progress isn’t really one of them. Like the U.S., there is so much political infighting. Progress moves at a snail’s pace…if things are even moving forward at all.

However, Tacloban looked great. It was bustling with shops and businesses, and the quality of goods and services went far beyond my expectations. It’s not a large city, but somehow it feels more sophisticated like one.

I had a motorbike very generously provided by Haven’s Tourist Transport near the airport. Rhoel, the owner, was a great guy. He gave me a quick tour of the area before I took the bike out myself.

I stopped by a few places downtown. The first was beautiful Hotel Alejandro, which dates back to prewar times. There is an impressive exhibit with hundreds of historical photos on the walls. After that, I checked out Sto Niño Church, which is a vibrant white color now that it has been restored post-typhoon.

(More Tacloban street photos)

Next was the Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, a rest home built for former President Marcos’ wife Imelda. Apparently her bathroom was larger than most of the citizens’ homes, and she actually ended up staying in the place only once.

I was able to do some street photography downtown, where I captured the hustle and bustle of the jeepneys, trikes, and commuters. Last, I visited the Anibong Memorial, or Yolanda Shrine. Many cargo ships washed ashore during the storm, but people began visiting and taking photos of this one in particular. Knowing this, the government decided to turn it into a monument – to memorialize the victims of the super typhoon.

The MacArthur Landing Site

Leyte is famous with WWII history buffs. That’s because just south of Tacloban, you can find the site of General Douglas MacArthur’s famous return to the Philippines. The American general had been forced to flee from the Japanese previously, but he kept his promise – and these statues memorialize his unit’s return.

It was quite surreal for me, because I ended up here on the 4th a July, our Independence Day in the U.S. It’s a time of celebration with friends and family, which I was desperately missing, having been on the other side of the world for over a year. Somehow, visiting this monument on this day brought me home.

I’ve always wanted to come here. It’s actually a National Park, and it’s located in the town of Palo, about 10 kms south of Tacloban City.

Tacloban Restaurants

This is what particularly impressed me about Tacloban. The business owners seem to be so motivated, and the service + quality standards are a cut above much of the rest of the country. I guess I was impressed by the food in Leyte and Samar in general. Are the ingredients better in this region, or do people just have tastes that fall more in line with mine? 

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina

Rewind back to March, 2013. I’m wandering the streets of Dumaguete (southern Philippines), with a hunger in my belly. I find a nice looking chicken restaurant, and try some Chicken Inasal.

Now fast forward to present day. I never imagined I would receive an invite to dine with the owner of the Tacloban branch, 3 years later. Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina serves family-style Filipino food in a comfortable garden-style environment.

(Photos of Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina)

(Assortment of Filipino foods)

The owner, Apple Anido Alagon was kind to prepare a nice selection of dishes and desserts for me to sample. Loved the Pineapple Mango Ginger Slush…all shakes and slushes are made with real fruit.  Also pictured is the dessert turon (fried banana) with langka (jackfruit) and ice cream.

Next is the house specialty. It looks like Bacolod-style Chicken Inasal, but with a pork BBQ stick included. It’s called Jo’s Chicken Inato Combo. Last, a plate of Zamboanga-style Spicy Shrimp.

Yes, there’s also unli (unlimited) rice.

Another one of Apple’s claims to fame is her Salted Egg Potato Chips. Apparently they have proven quite popular with the locals, even some being taken back home as pasalubong, or souvenir gifts. If it’s not obvious, Jo’s is well suited for Asian / Filipino taste buds.

Apple’s family has been in the Leyte region for generations, as is evident by the 90 year-old fountain on display in the garden. It was built by her great grandparents. She does quite a bit of community outreach as well, and is just a bright and cheery person in general. Stop by and check the place out!

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina: 241 P. Burgos St. +63 53 832 2042

Canto Fresco Pizza (Italian Influenced)

Pizza is one of my guilty pleasures, and the best way to cure my homesickness when I’m out on the road. However, it’s not always easy to find decent pizza in the Philippines. Well, Canto Fresco goes well beyond decent pizza, in fact it’s quite gourmet. I was particularly interested in the Mozzarella Bites I saw on the menu…

Oh my, they really hit the spot. It’s so nice to nice to have legit pizza with authentic ingredients like this. I can’t remember name of the one I ordered, but I’ve never tasted anything like it. Very festive! Haha. Honestly, I enjoyed it, but the herb flavor they used could have been toned down a tiny bit. It was unique, but a bit overpowering.

(Photos – Canto Fresco)

The carafe of mixed fruit and vegetable juices was delicious! Very refreshing. I was hoping to find a menu online so I could specify all items, but no luck. Anyhow, the ingredients are fresh, pizza is homemade (and hand-tossed), and the indoor / outdoor seating atmosphere is rustic and charming. Very much recommended!

Canto Fresco: 279 Burgos St. +63 53 523 9085

 (Continued below, but I recommend Booking.com if you need a good hotel in Tacloban)

Highside Bar & Restaurant

How perfect is it to visit a motorcycle-themed restaurant during my motorbike trip around Leyte? Highside was born from a passion for riding, but also from the tragedy of typhoon Haiyan. I sat with a few of the owners, Jo Jo and Mal, and listened to their story.

Mal has quite a harrowing tale of loss and survival himself. After the storm, the old friends would gather to have drinks and perhaps try to cheer each other up. They only had each other, as their wives and remaining family members had been relocated to safer areas. Like thousands of other Taclobanons, they had lost so much. Their city was devastated. What to do now?

Well, you know the expression…when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. In their case, they rebuilt. Not only that, but they channeled their love of motorcycling into a restaurant business, and even repurposed the remnants of vehicles destroyed in the storm. These pieces were used to decorate the bar, along with some of their own complete motorcycles, which were left inoperable.

The guys told me that before, people were more timid to invest their money in new businesses, or to spend it around town having a good time. However, the storm taught them that you never know what will happen tomorrow, so you might as well enjoy today.

(Click photos for more info about Highside)

I’ll never forget Jo Jo telling me “Money could do nothing for us. During the storm, Taclobanons were all struggling together. ..regardless of their income or status. That storm leveled the playing field”. A powerful reminder of this sits right on the wall. It’s the hood and trunk of a fancy BMW, which completely washed away in the storm. Oil barrels are now creative lounge seating, Hummer tires serve as giant beer coasters.

Speaking of beer, this is the best place to make it happen. The food is excellent, too. While not a single dish let me down, I especially loved the spicy jalapeño “lumpia”, called “Dynamite”. It’s jalapeño, cheese, chili, and ground beef – wrapped up lumpia style, and served with a tangy sauce.

I have to give it to these guys, they have done a great job making the most of this truly unfortunate situation. They felt like brothers to me, and I hope to visit them in their popular hangout again someday.

Highside Bar & Restaurant Gomez St @ Paterno +63 917 504 9452

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HQ Food Park

While checking out the food stalls on Justice Romualdez Street, I met a guy who recommended a newly opened place south of town. It sounded familiar, and I realized I had passed it on my motorbike on the way to the MacArthur Landing site.

I came for an early dinner during the week (hence the smaller crowd). I imagine it gets pretty lively during the weekends. HQ is the first of its kind in Tacloban – a large food / gastro park, complete with drinks, darts,  and live music.

I love the graffiti mural of General MacArthur out front…due to its proximity to the landing site, that was a nice touch.

General MacArthur Graffiti & Grilled Pork Belly @ HQ

I found some super cheap and delicious liempo (pork belly) here…nice to have a kamayan dinner! That means you eat only with your hands. I loved that they serve the rice wrapped in coconut leaves…I think this is called puso in Cebu. Anyhow, HQ Food Park is open pretty late, and worth checking out!

HQ Food Park – Real St, Fatima Village

Cafe Lucia – Definitely Worth a Mention

This charming little cafe sits across from the Tacloban Astrodome. It serves delicious + affordable coffee and snacks. Really, I was impressed! Wish there were more places like it in the Philippines, and that I had more time to explore other menu options:)

Tacloban Hotels

(Agoda)

GV Hotel is a super cheap option right downtown. A good value, but you get what you pay for.

Ironwood Hotel is a classy place (more money, but still a great value). It has a very good reputation, with plenty of rave reviews.

(Booking.com)

If you prefer to use booking.com, check out more Tacloban City hotels here

How To Get There

Tacloban can be reached via boat or plane…but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila and Cebu. Again, if you need transportation when you arrive at the airport, check out Haven’s Car & Motorbike Rental.

Thanks for the Memories, Tacloban

This city is now high on my list of favorites in the Philippines. The people, the culture, and the food left a lasting impression on me. Big, big thanks to all who made this trip possible: Canto Fresco team, Mal, Jo Jo, Apple, Krizette and Rhoel…keep on making Tacloban proud.

I took this photo of the sunset at Tacloban Port. One of my favorites from this trip, and a great way to wrap up this piece.

I Shall  Return…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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The post A Tour of Tacloban City: Once Defined by Tragedy – Now, Ambition appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Legend states that the Hindu mother goddess gave a spear to Murugan, the god of war. With this spear, she helped him destroy an evil demon.

Once a year on the full moon, Tamil Hindus around the world commemorate this during the fascinating Thaipusam Festival. They do so by fasting for 48 hours, and carrying heavy pots of milk on their heads. Others, incredibly, by “spearing” their own skin.

Some even wear heavy, elaborate metal cages that are literally “fish hooked” and chained into their bodies – in up to HUNDREDS of places. Here are more photos of these fascinating rituals…

Nighttime Festival Photos

Singapore’s procession starts quite late on the eve of the full moon.  Devotees gather at Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in “Little India”. The first group of worshipers depart carry pots of milk or offerings (paal kudam) on their heads.

For many, this is where the (intentional) suffering begins. Men and women stand and walk in this position for many hours. Friends and relatives join them on the festival route (3kms – 5kms), to offer not just moral support, but physical support as well. As you can see, it’s quite exhausting.

This suffering is seen as a way to pay back the “debts” owed to lord Murugan.

However, not everybody seemed to be suffering. Many devotees appeared to be in good spirits, laughing and visiting with each other along the way. Perhaps they were just getting started on the route, and exhaustion hadn’t set in yet.

This man is carrying a “kavadi”, a colorful, intricate cage that rests on (or all around) you. He is burdening himself with this weight to assist in the healing of a loved one…or perhaps to repay his own spiritual debts.

This seems to be a simple, unattached kavadi. As you’ll see later, others are much larger, and are often hooked directly into the flesh.

The devotees continue down Serangoon Road until they get backed up waiting to cross Bukit Timah and head downtown. This was a great place to photograph the group as a whole.

I can only imagine how painful it must be to stay locked in this position, carrying these heavy milk pots for hours and hours…

Kavadi Photos in Daylight

The attendees walk through the early morning, and the procession ends at Sri Thendayuthapani Temple on Tank Road. I opted to go home and rest before returning the next day for more photos.

I returned the next morning to a beautiful, but oppressively warm day.

Here you can see a kavadi “cage” that is pierced directly into the skin of this worshiper. Countless chains are “fish hooked” into his chest, and decorative spikes have been pierced through his tongue and cheeks.

I believe even his ears are chained to the kavadi poles on his sides.

The Kavadi Attam “Burden Dance”

As if this burden wasn’t enough to bear already, these men stop along the procession route and dance under the weight of their chained bondage. The soft, traditional voices being played through the speakers are cut, and replaced with thunderous, energetic drumming and singing.

Again, the route is 3km – 5kms, depending on the festival location. In the harsh tropical sun, it’s downright grueling.

However, it is also a colorful, lively affair…the crowd claps and sings along, taking photos and video.  Amazingly, the performers almost seem to enjoy it…

Almost.

Women & Children Join The Procession

Men aren’t the only ones showing their strength and courage. I noted hundreds of women carrying milk pots along the route, and quite a few with pierced tongues and cheeks as well. The woman above even appears to have a pierced forehead…

While there were many children simply walking alongside their parents, a few went the extra mile and carried a burden for themselves. I think they must be 18 or 21 years old to take part in the piercing, however. https://lap.lazada.com/banner/dynamic.php?banner_id=5a7a80633bf5f&theme=1&p=1

This is where the photos get a bit graphic. These are not just fishing hooks – they are massive, industrial-grade meat hooks, pierced and looped through the skin of the back. For what I assume is continual suffering, they are attached to ropes, and kept taught during the entirety of the festival.

It was quite surreal to see so many smiles amidst the suffering. Since they were out in public, part of me wondered if attendees are encouraged to “soften” things a bit by smiling for tourists when they see them. It would make sense, because some uninformed tourists might mistake a festival that brings people closer to God for one of pure torture instead.

Yes, this is religious devotion at its most intense.

This is the front view of the man with hooks in his back – carrying on a conversation like it’s just a normal day…astonishing.

This group was accompanied by a large chariot, which blesses the crowds’ offering plates as it passes by. These plates are filled with fruits and sweets.

Perhaps the heat and exhaustion is just too much for some. Even in a “resting” position, the ropes are pulled tight to continue the devotion.

Those without a “rope puller” often attach heavy fruits to their hooks – the weight adding to the pain and suffering. Presumably this is for more blessings / attention from lord Murugan.

(Continued below…but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me)

What an honor to be a guest, and witness such intense cultural traditions.

More Info About Thaipusam

Of course, Tamil people originated from the state of Tamil Nadu, India, so the Thaipusam Festival is not just restricted to Singapore…it takes place anywhere there is a sizeable Tamil Hindu population.

I learned that in Tamil, “Thai” means month, and “pusam” means star. The festival always takes place during the full moon in the month of Thai, which falls in January / February.

Photography is permitted, assuming you are respectful and avoid interrupting the procession.

Where to Stay

Little India is actually a great place to find more affordable hotels in Singapore. There is a colorful “backpackers district” there, but of course, Singapore has options at all price points. If you’re looking for an modern, extravagant hotel, you can find that as well. Check out Booking.com:

Despite the (seemingly) brutal ritual, the participants and organisers were all in great spirits. They were very kind to me (and all guests), offering free water, juice, and snacks. I have to give it up to the police as well…it must be difficult running such a massive, cultural  festival through the heart of gleaming downtown Singapore, and on a workday no less.

It was masterfully done, and a joy to attend.

To those who still say Singapore has no culture, I offer this post…and many more to come:) This is part of the reason I love this country so much. You can simply walk through the city – and leave feeling like you’ve traveled the world.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Of My Singapore Photography

Dynamic Street Photography in Singapore

Festive Street Photography in Singapore’s Chinatown

Street Photography in Singapore’s “Little India”

Social Media

The post Thaipusam: A Deeply Religious Flesh-Piercing Festival in Singapore appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Out the Window of a Double Decker

If you are lucky enough to get a front row seat on the upper level, you will have an elevated, panoramic view as you pass by some beautiful and historic Singapore landmarks. In the photo below you’ll find colorful Rochor Centre, which is actually scheduled for demolition sometime soon.

As you can see, up here you can sit directly behind the windshield. The driver is down below, so the view is 100% unobstructed. From this vantage point it kind of feels as if you are flying above the city streets.

Also, being up so high provides a unique perspective on everyday life in the city. As you are just on a commuter bus, you can observe the comings and goings on the streets below…and do so unnoticed.

Here you’ll find St. Andrew’s Cathedral, which is the largest in Singapore, and quite a prominent landmark.

Also note the subway commuters, as this is the City Hall MRT Station. I had to be quick to capture this picture…the trees block much of the view, and the bus passes this area quickly.

Below is the same location, but view of North Bridge Road & Peninsula Plaza (on the right).

Clean, Uncongested City Streets

Along with Tokyo, Singapore has some of the cleanest streets in Asia. However, what Singapore doesn’t have is the crowds. I remember when I first visited Singapore, I asked a local when rush hour was. They just laughed.

It is prohibitively expensive to own a car in Singapore, and in my opinion, that’s a very good thing. With hardly any traffic, Singapore is very efficient, and residents enjoy some of the best quality of life in the world.

Yes, fewer cars on the road means cleaner air…but also helping out in this department are the beautiful trees that can be found all over the city. Not only do they help to clean the air, but they shade and cool the landscape as well. When it comes to heat and humidity, Singapore, being right on the equator, could use all the help it can get.

Seriously, these stately trees are one of my favorite things about Singapore. These are even small compared to some of the giants I have seen while exploring the country. I’m so glad they incorporated all this green space into such a modern, metropolitan area. I hope to write more about this soon.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Photos of the Bus Ride Through Chinatown

I “hovered” right through the heart of this historic district – where tradition and modernity collide.

Above you can see the base of The Pinnacle@Duxton, a 50 storey high-rise with the largest sky gardens in the world.

Below is the “Buddha Tooth Relic Temple“, which is not only incredibly striking, but also (clearly) wins the award for best named temple.

If you were wondering, yes, this photo was taken from the bus, too (you can see the window border in the upper left hand side). Hard to believe, but there really is a LOT to be seen on this route!

Church of St. Teresa – Further Down the Road

Seriously, could this bus commute get any more scenic?? St Teresa Church sits on a small, picturesque hill just beyond Chinatown.

Labrador Park MRT / Overhead Bridge

A few kilometers later I decided to get off the bus…though I do wonder what else I would have seen if I continued! Next time, I guess. I just walked around Labrador park and enjoyed the sunset before returning back to the city center.

A DIY “Commuter Tour”

So yes, if you’re ever in Singapore on a nice day, don’t hesitate to take one of these double decker buses! Sure, the SMRT train might be faster, but as you’ve seen above, you’ll miss out on a lot of colorful scenery on the way to your destination.

Again, every photo on this page was taken from a window seat on one of these buses.

(If you were wondering, these pictures were shot with a Ricoh GRII camera. It’s basically a DSLR that fits right in the palm of your hand.  You can check it out on Amazon…or if you’re in Asia, on Lazada. Using these links will find you a great deal, but also help me out…doesn’t cost you anything extra at all)

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Related Links

RX100 Street Photography in Manila, Philippines

15 Jaw-Dropping Photos of the Philippines

Social Media

Have a question or comment? I’d love to hear from you.

The post These Singapore Photos Were Shot During a 50-cent Bus Ride appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.