Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Touring Leyte’s WWII history has always been on my bucket list. While visiting some friends in Singapore, they asked what my next trip might be. I told them it could be Leyte, but I had no real plans for it. Well, the power of suggestion is strong…and I do believe that “The universe conspires to help the dreamer”.

The next day I was hit with the urge to check flights. Boom. Promo flights, both to the Philippines, and also to Tacloban from Cebu. As we say back in California:

It’s on like Donkey Kong.

Before I knew it, I had reached out to my readers and lined up a pretty incredible trip, including a super nice motorbike (courtesy of  Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban). If you’re wondering, Leyte is a huge island province in the southern Philippines – one of the largest, I believe.

Time For the Open Road…On My Way To Kananga

I was on a mission to get to Palompon, the jump off point to beautiful Kalanggaman island. I zipped through the towns of Palo, Tunga, and quite a colorful fiesta in Carigara. Normally I would stop and enjoy the festivities, but I had an island tour lined up, so I had to push on.  I started winding up the beautiful mountain roads outside town, and noticed the air cooling a bit.

Soon, I headed over the pass and made my way down into a plain of lush, green rice fields.

These are the rice paddies along the highway in Kananga. Knowing that I was making good time, I decided to get off the bike and take some landscape pictures. As you can see my motorbike was quite customized, including a nice windshield (although I’m so tall…my head popped over the top! Haha.)

Kananga Parish Church

There is a similar looking church in Palo, but I was in a hurry when I rode passed it (plus the sky was cloudy there). I’m quite picky about the skies and colors in my photos. Anyhow, I was thrilled to see this beautiful alternative on my way through Kananga.

(There was a actually a 6.5 magnitude earthquake that happened as I was riding the motorbike out of Tacloban. I didn’t even realize. Sadly, a building collapsed in Kananga. One person died, but fortunately, all the others were rescued.)

Palompon Town, and San Juan Beach

I arrived in the (surprisingly) bustling town of Palompon just before sunset. I asked a local where a good place to photograph was, and they pointed me to San Juan Beach. By the time I found it, the light was really fading. Still had enough time to chat with friendly beachgoers and snap some photos, though.

I always love being on the beach at this time in the Philippines. You can find kids playing in the water while their fishermen fathers bring in the boats. Yes, island smiles abound when things finally cool off each day.

I said goodby to the surfers and skimboarders, and made my way back to Asayas Pension Plaza, where I ended up staying the night.

Funny how my life works, this place was recommended to me, and when I walked in the front door, I noticed old cameras and photography themed decor all over the room! The owner is Mr. Juanito D. Asaya, a renowned photographer who even snapped photos of former President Marcos water skiing back in the 70s. He even had an old Ricoh SLR on the shelf – the same brand I use today.

 (Continued below, but I do hope you’ll follow along with me)

Coastal Fishing Village of Ipil (Palompon)

The next morning I set out to explore Palompon town a bit. I became fascinated by this “floating” native village on stilts in the water. I asked some local kids how to go there, but I think they were too shy to respond. However, as I was walking away a boy crossing the street told me he would take me there.

Turns out he actually lived there, so he knew it well!

His name was Zar, and really was a bright kid. I was so grateful for his impromptu tour, though I was a bit worried that my excess weight might crack the bamboo walkways between houses! he looked worried, too. Haha…I’m sure he never saw somebody my size trying to navigate these elevated paths.

As for the local residents, they could practically walk these precarious planks and pathways with their eyes closed. It’s just an everyday part of life.

Anyhow, it was a fascinating place to document, and I appreciated his help very much. I hope somehow he might read this someday.

The next morning I embarked on my incredible overnight camping trip to Kalanggaman Island, but you can find the link for that story at the end of this post:)

The Road To Southern Leyte

The long trip had wiggled loose a small bolt on my tailpipe, and it began to rattle loudly as I rode. Luckily I noticed a huge Yamaha dealer as I passed through Ormoc City, and they replaced it at no cost. Very nice! I was in a hurry to make it all the way to Padre Burgos in the far south, so I didn’t have time to see more of Ormoc. As I left town, the road really opened up, and traffic started moving FAST.

Before I knew it, I had passed the beautiful coastline of Inopacan (which I vowed to come back and visit someday), and I arrived in the busy town of Maasin. I know this means “very salty” in Filipino, but I’m not sure if it means the same thing here. I also learned that Maasin is the birthplace of current president, Rodrigo Duterte. I always assumed he was born in Davao!

Sunburnt and exhausted, I had a very late lunch in Maasin and then continued to the Macrohon area, where I took this photo of a tree lined street. At least, I think it was the Macrohon area….in any case, it was an enchanting section of highway.

People in Leyte so far had been incredible warm and friendly, but for some reason, around this small section of road, I got some pretty odd looks from the locals. I couldn’t help but wonder if they had a particularly bad experience with a foreigner in the past here. In any case, soon enough, I finally made it to Padre Burgos. The good vibes resumed. The link to my experience @ Peter’s Dive Resort can be found at the end of this post…

After 2 amazing days of snorkeling / diving with new friends, I got back on the bike and rode up the coast to Sogod, where I snapped these photos from a bridge over the Hipgasan river (I think?). Again, I was sunburnt and famished (riding for countless hours in the tropical sun really takes a toll on you). I stopped for lunch at a friendly eatery near the Sogod Public Market.

Then I traveled to a remote part of St. Bernard, where there was a crowd of people gathered. Noticing a beautiful mountain landscape above their village, I pulled the bike over to take a picture.

I assumed the crowd was waiting along the road for a bus, but actually there was a massive neighborhood brawl. It sounded really serious, with a lot of screaming and commotion, but the guys next to me were just laughing. They looked at me and said “Don’t worry, they’re just drunk.”

Like an idiot, I had assumed I could make it all the way from Padre Burgos up to Tacloban in one day. This was a pipe dream…while beautiful, the road was far more windy and slow going than I anticipated. I pushed as hard as I could in the fading light, but was ready to eat dinner and pass out by the time I reached Hinundayan.

 (If you’re curious about Leyte hotels, you can check them out below)

I forgot to mention that this whole trip was pitch black once the sun went down, because the earthquake knocked out power all over Leyte. Riding at night in the Philippines is stressful and dangerous (road hazards).  A local pointed me to Julie’s Lodge, where I found a very warm and welcoming Julie + caretaker.

Her daughters and sons are working all over the world, such a fascinating story! Very kind people, and definitely an affordable place to stop along the way.

An American Peace Corps volunteer at the dive resort had told me about a fish sanctuary further up the road…I told him I didn’t have time to visit it, as I was planning to go all the way to Tacloban that day. Well, here I was with some time…after being forced to break the trip up.

When Mrs. Julie told me I should stop by there on the way too, I considered it a sign. I readied my snorkel and mask, and made my way up the rustic dirt road through the village.

Snorkeling @ Ambao / Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

Wow, I guess this was pretty meant to be! There’s not a lot of coral right off the dock where I snorkeled, but there are SO MANY fish. The caretaker was feeding them with bread that I had purchased from him, so I guess that explains the feeding frenzy. Haha.

It’s surreal being in the water with all these fish.  Similar to experiences I had at Juag Lagoon in Sorsogon, I suppose. If you’re wondering, I took these with my Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE.

Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

You’re basically just snorkeling along the edge of a cement wall, but there is a tiny coral growth there I found to photograph. It may be man made, but it’s worth it to see all these beautiful fish. Calagitan Fish Sanctuary is located in Ingan, Hinundayan, and has a 10 or 20 peso entry fee (I can’t remember, but it was cheap. You can pay 10 pesos for bread to feed them as well.)

The guys there were super nice, we shared fresh-caught octopus and rice for lunch, and I gave them a bit of extra money before continuing north. If you go, don’t forget to bring your own mask and snorkel.

Silago / Abuyog Boundary Creek

As I left the coast and started heading up into the mountains, the landscape began to change. When I came across a picturesque bridge with a small waterfall, I had to stop the bike and relax for a while. I really fell in love with this cool, creek canyon.

Just a rocky, babbling brook meandering through a lush jungle of ferns. I could have stayed there all day.

I came down from the mountains and felt the HEAT of the valley. There were some beautiful rice fields in the villages around Abuyog. These look they have been planted fairly recently, but I’m no expert. People here also seemed a bit wary of me, but Leyte Regional Prison is located way out here, so maybe they’re just wary of strangers in case they’re escapees. Do I look like one? Haha.

After this, the road opened up again, and I practically flew all the way back to Tacloban.

C’est fini.

Leyte Hotels

You can browse hotels with review on Agoda HERE

If you prefer Booking.com, you can click HERE

How To Get To Leyte

You can find super cheap Cebu Pacific promo flights to Tacloban or Ormoc City (I paid about $15 each!), but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila or Cebu. If you fly to Tacloban, you can pick up a motorbike or car near the airport and tour the area yourself. As a photographer, this is the only option for me. I’ll never forget this trip.

Again, big thanks to Rhoel @ Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban. My trip went off without a hitch because I had a solid, reliable bike. Rhoel’s an awesome guy, too. What an incredible experience Leyte was – overall, one of my favorite regions in the Philippines now. I love the history, I love the people, I love the food, and I love the countryside.

That’s a lot of love.

Thanks for taking such good care of me, Leyte.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Related Links

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

My Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving With Peter’s Dive Resort, Southern Leyte

Social Media

The post LEYTE, PHILIPPINES: A Motorbike Tour of a Beautiful, Historic Island appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

As I sat on the beach in Caramoan, I gazed across the water to the island of Catanduanes…I wasn’t sure how I would get there, but I knew I had to explore it. Suddenly, I noticed some tourists relaxing nearby. I started up a conversation with them, and realized that they had come all the way from Canada.

After a while, I learned that after their vacation in Caramoan, they were taking a speedboat across the water to Catanduanes. Not only that, but amazingly, they knew a friend of mine from Manila – she grew up in Catanduanes! Next thing you know, I’m hitching a ride on a thrilling speedboat.

I will never forget the motorbike trip I took around the “enchanted” island of Siquijor in 2013.

Well, I was excited about recreating that trip on the rugged island of Catanduanes. Photo adventures like these are a big part of why I came to the Philippines in the first place!

What I didn’t realize is that this island is much, much bigger than Siquijor. My 2 day trip ended up taking 5, and I’ll never forget it!

Exploring Catanduanes

A part of the Bicol region in the eastern Philippines, Catanduanes used to be part of Albay, and is said to be named after the “tandu” or giant click beetles that can be found flying around the area at night.

I put my feelers out to my friends and managed to locate a motorbike I could borrow on arrival. Catanduanes is rugged; there are still remote sections with no paved roads, and for me, it made my journey that much more exciting. My trip began in San Andres…

Sto. Domingo River

Sto. Domingo River is also known as Pajo River, and is a place where you can find floating huts and local children swimming in the fresh water. The water was awarded cleanest in Bicol back in 1999. I snapped this photo from a bridge that crosses over the river.

You don’t hear much about the waterfalls of Catanduanes, but when I looked at the tourist map, I could see that they were EVERYWHERE! I wanted to visit all of them, but there really were too many.

Hicming Falls

Hicming Falls isn’t too well known, but it was quite impressive! You can reach it via a short hike from the village of Hicming, near Sto. Domingo.

Trike drivers may be able to take you there. This brief, beautiful hike up a scenic creek bed will reward you with a gushing, 3-tier waterfall at the end.

There are many smaller falls and tranquil pools on the way up…This really was one of my favorite waterfalls in Catanduanes, and I’m surprised it’s not more publicized.

I guess the lack of crowds and development is what I liked most about it, though. For now, hopefully these falls can remain our little secret…

Luyang Cave in San Andres

Just off the highway is impressive Luyang Cave(see photo). This vast, limestone cave is quite accessible, and fascinating to explore. You can bring your own flashlight and do a DIY walkthrough tour, but just be careful, because the path can be very slippery.

There is a tragic story attached to Luyang Cave. Reportedly, all the locals hid in the cave when the Moro invaders arrived. They would carefully send a woman out to fetch water when needed, but eventually her luck ran out. She was spotted returning to the cave, and she gave away their hiding spot.

Knowing that they would all meet their demise at the hands of the Moros, the locals quickly piled up sticks and branches at the entrance to the cave.

When they realized that wasn’t enough to protect themselves, as a last resort, they lit the branches on fire…hoping that the flames would deter the pirates.

Sadly, the wind changed directions, and filled their cave with thick, black smoke. They could not breathe, and there were no survivors.

Mamangal Beach

Mamangal Beach, can be found in barangay Balite, Virac. It’s one of the nicest beaches I came across in Catanduanes. However, to be honest, I was more focused on waterfalls than beaches, so keep that in mind:) Roads are a bit rough to get here, and there is an entry fee upon arrival. Many thanks to Che and the Gurrobat family for the assistance getting here! Che’s blog is called Backpacking Pilipinas.

From my research, some other popular beaches are Twin Rocks Resort Beach, Marilima Beach, Batag Beach…all within Virac. Sakahon Beach is nice as well, in Bato.

For a real off-the-beaten-path Catanduanes adventure (and the most stunning beach of all), check my Palumbanes Island Blog.

Snorkeling at Agojo Marine Park and Sanctuary

I went exactly where they told me to and explored for over an hour. Unfortunately there wasn’t much to see. After being protected for 20 years, there should be much more coral regrowth here. It’s mostly dead still, and there aren’t a whole lot of fish. Either people are sneaking in to do dynamite / cyanide fishing still, or somehow there are other environmental factors at work.

The best part of Agojo for me was actually the fascinating mangrove trees, as you can see pictured here..

I was told that Agojo was the best place to snorkel and see corals in Catanduanes…sadly, this was not my experience. The bantay dagat (security guards for the marine life)  were not able to take me out in the boat, because it was broken. However, they told me I could just swim out a few hundred yards in the shallow water to gosnorkeling. Btw, if you are curious, I took these photos with my TG4 underwater camera.

Note: The photo of this beautiful coral reef was actually taken in Catanduanes also, but it was taken north of Agojo, at a random (unprotected) spot I pulled my motorbike over and decided to explore.

I really was snorkeling in the middle of nowhere, and I guess that explains why there were still corals and fish.

I hope the Local Government Units will look into this, because Catanduanes has some beautiful corals and marine life that could really draw tourists if preserved and protected.

Hiyop Point – Pandan

In the far northwest part of the island, you can find the rolling green hills and vistas of Hiyop Point. Below are more various photos from my ride along the west side of the island.

Carangyan Resort is near here, but it’s a bit pricey for being so provincial. The couple who runs it is very nice, and the food is quite good, though. It might be worth stopping by for lunch, if nothing else.

One thing I loved seeing around Catanduanes was all the colorful buildings and churches…this pink church was a first for me!

(continued below)

Catanduanes is known for its production of Tiger Grass, or Sugbo, as it is known locally. It’s used to make brooms. Also produced here is the strong natural fiber called Abaca, (Manila Hemp).

“The Happy Island”

Catanduanes was most memorable to me because of the hospitality of the people I met along the way. Known as “The Happy Island”, I felt it from the moment I arrived.

Due to the plenty of roadside photo breaks and rough roads, my trip took longer than expected, and I was forced to spend an unplanned night in barangay Tokio, Pandan. A local introduced me to the barangay captain, a very nice lady by the name of Mrs. Bernacer.

After arranging a local guide to bring me to the nearby waterfall for a swim (see above), Mrs. Bernacer was so kind to prepare a dinner for me. Her family even made room in their home, so that I could rest before continuing my journey in the morning! Incredibly hospitable, and I appreciated it.

I also stopped at the School of Fisheries in Caramoran. I met many friendly people there.

Snorkeling in Soboc, Viga

What an unexpected surprise! There are some fascinating coral formations underwater there in Soboc. I was so happy to see that much of it has been preserved.

I saw quite a few clownfish, a lionfish, and a variety of other marine life such as colorful clams and urchins. Remember to bring your own snorkel, mask, and fins! As always, I used my Olympus TG-4 underwater camera.

Big thanks to my local guide Mathew Barceta, and also to a local mechanic – kuya Rey. My motorbike was having problems when I arrived, and he quickly repaired it for only the cost of parts! Kuya Rey and the rest of the guys there were very kind. I do hope to return to Catanduanes someday and repay their kindness.

Viga and Bagamanok – The Countryside

This was particularly beautiful stretch of the trip. I loved seeing the town marker they put up in Bagamanok – reminiscent of the Holywood sign:) I also came across a beautiful cemetery where I stopped and took some photos. The weather was just perfect.

I snapped this photo of a few carabaos (water buffaloes) cooling off in a creek.

If you’re going north to Viga from Virac (via the central route), check out Cathy’s Spring Resortalong the way.

There is a famous rock formation here near the beach. It’s called “Boto ni Kurakog“, which translates to “Kurakog’s penis“. Yes, you read that correctly.

Legend says that a sleeping giant on the beach was washed out to sea. Now he rests underwater on his back, with 5 meters of his…ummm…”manhood” rising up out of the water. Catanduanes…the “happy island” indeed. Haha.

Nahulugan Falls

Nahulugan Falls is a great place to take pictures, and very much worth the visit! You can take a trike all the way there, unlike Hicming Falls, where you have to hike a bit.

Nahulugan is in the town of Gigmoto, where I found a lot of really good people.

First, I stopped to leave my things at the local police department, because I thought I needed to hike to get to the falls, and my bag is quite heavy.

The officers were very friendly, and I really got the sense that I could trust them. I was right!

Unfortunately, on the way to the falls, my motorbike broke down once again. I was far from any ATM, and I wasn’t sure what to do.

Eventually a very nice man named Manny came to my aid, and not only took me to Nahulugan Falls, but also helped me get my motorbike repaired afterward…without asking for anything in return.

Kuya Manny and family, if you’re reading this, thanks for helping me in my time of need! Proving yet again that Catanduanes really is the “happy” and friendly island…

Balacay Point

Further south in Baras, I came across Balacay Point. Here you can find iconic, sweeping views of the coastline and small islands of Catanduanes & Pacific Ocean. Just be careful on the rocky dirt road going up…it was quite rough when I was there…the vista at the top is worth it, though!

Surfing in Puraran – Baras

Catanduanes is home to Bicol’s most famous surf spot, known as Puraran. This is a great place to learn, or just relax and enjoy the beach. I didn’t try surfing here, but I hope to learn soon! Balacay Point is only a few kilometers from here, and you can see Puraran Beach from the viewpoint.

Bato Church

St. John the Baptist Church can be found in the town of Bato. It is also known as “Bato Church“. Can you believe it was originally built from wood in the late 1500s? Rebuilding with stone materials began in 1830. The church has withstood the test of time ever since.

Maribina Falls

Nearby Maribina Falls (also in Bato) is the most well known and accessible of all the waterfalls on the island.

This is a great place to swim, relax, or have a picnic.

This mulit-tiered waterfall gets its name from the 2 surrounding neighborhoods, orbarangays:

The combination of Marinawa andBinanwahan = “Maribina”.

Virac Cathedral

Virac Cathedral is also known as “the Roman Catholic Diocese of Virac”.

It is located right in the heart of Virac, and is one of the most prominent landmarks.

Virac Cathedral is only a few decades old, but it was built over an older parish.

Virac is the largest city and capital of Catanduanes. I loved the vibrant energy here.

On a Friday night, I wandered over to the plaza and found many kids practicing everything from skateboarding, to dance routines, to their marching band songs.

I’m glad the city is supportive of this.

I didn’t get to try many restaurants in Virac, but I did find a pizza place that I LOVED! It’s called “Carrie’s Pizza“, and it really is a great value. The pizza was quite good for the price, and the service can’t be beat. Check it out!

Hotels & Guest Houses

Marem Pension House, Virac  – A beautiful and very affordable place to stay.  It has been operating for years, and is quite well maintained.  You can explore options at Marem Pension House HERE

Rackdell Inn, Virac – Also good for the budget-minded, and close to Jollibee! Haha. +63 908 885 0569

Catanduanes Midtown Inn (Virac)  – For a bit more money…you can take a big step up with the Midtown Inn. Still a great value! You can explore options at Catanduanes Midtown Inn HERE

Pacific Surfer’s Paradise Beach Resort, Puraran – This was my favorite option in Puraran. Service was great + accommodations / food were a good value. You can explore options atPacific Surfer’s Paradise Beach Resort HERE

More options HERE

How To Get To Catanduanes

The island can be reached by direct flight to from Manila to Virac, or overnight bus to Tabaco Port, where you can catch a 3 hour ferry to Virac. Once there, you should be able to take a bus to Puraran and other destinations. If not, you may have to rent a trike or van for the whole day, and it could be quite pricey.

Big thanks to Carmel Bonifacio and the Catanduanes tourism office in Virac! The tourism brochures I was provided with were well-designed, very professional, and quite useful. The museum above the office is worth seeing, too! Many thanks to Mayleine Olfindo, and all the good, humble people of “The Happy Island”! Thanks for reminding me why I fell in love with the Philippines in the first place.

Hope you enjoyed my photos & adventure.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Like my page to follow along with me:)  – Nathan

I use Agoda to book my rooms online, check it out below! – Nathan Allen

Related blogs:

Palumbanes Islands – The Grand Adventure Nobody’s Talking About

Life Goals: Island-Hopping in Caramoan

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Catanduanes By Motorbike – Exploring a Rugged, Scenic Beauty appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

The Ride of a Lifetime: The Long Way Home–Chapter 8

After the jaw-dropping island-hopping photos I captured at Linapacan with Tapik Resort, I decided to ride the “long” way back to Taytay. Ironically, the long way is actually shorter in distance, and much more direct. However, the road is still very long…and very much unpaved. 

I had it in my mind that I wanted explore the full loop of (north) Palawan, with as little backtracking as possible.  Despite people advising me against it, I continued. For this, I was rewarded with endless vast stretches of scenic coastline few tourists have ever seen.

Up until now, I had done 850 (often challenging) kilometers without any incident. The journey was beautiful, but I could see why the locals advise against it. It’s just very hot, very rough, and mostly quite secluded.

It was so far that I starting running low on gas. I found a hut with the ultimate symbol of “fuel” in the Philippine provinces: A row of 1 liter Coke bottles, full of green gas. After buying 10 litters of “Coke” for my thirsty Kawasaki, I snapped a photo of the nice sales girl and continued on my way.

Breakdown (In the Middle Of Nowhere)

It was about 2 hours later, and I was really in the middle of nowhere. Suddenly I saw a Caterpillar backhoe working in the dirt ahead of me. I slowed down and was signaled through by the young guy assisting the operator. I smiled and waived as I passed by, and that seemed to catch him off guard. His serious “work face” suddenly broke into an ear-to-ear grin, and he waived back at me.

I continued out of sight up the next ridge, and just then I heard a loud “clunk!!” come from my bike. Suddenly I couldn’t accelerate anymore. I came to a halt right there on the steep dirt hill. When I looked down, I noticed that my chain had come off.

I somehow managed to turn the bike around and coast back down toward the workers on the next ridge. When they saw me pushing the bike and waiving, they quickly ran down to meet me.

In a mixture of broken English and Tagalog, we were able to communicate what needed to be done. Amazingly, these guys just happened to have the tools needed to put the chain back on–and in the middle of nowhere!

They were nice as can be. We became friends as they quickly got my “trusty stallion” back on the road…but they told me it would be wise to ride to their house up the road so they could properly oil the chain. That was very kind of them, too.

(Continued below…but I’d be honored if you follow along with me on FB)

When I arrived at their nipa house, they laughed when I asked where the C.R. (bathroom) was. They just smiled and pointed to the trees along the edge of the property. I should have known better. It’s nature’s way. I snapped this photo of their native house:

I wanted to leave them with a bit money for their effort, I mean, they really saved me out there! How lucky I was that they were there, after all that time riding and not seeing a single person or structure. They refused any kind of payment many times, but I kept insisting, so eventually they reluctantly accepted.

Thank you so much kuya Noli, Gerry, and Ronnie! They asked that I text them when I made it safely back to Puerto Princesa. People in the Philippines are generally wonderful.

(Note: It is a bit misleading to call what happened a “breakdown”…nothing actually broke. The chain simply came off, which is quite common if you ride long enough. Simple fix for those who own motorbikes.)

The Longgggg Dirt Road Ahead

Once I was back on the road, I had no problems at all. Well, apart from the verrrry long rest of the ride back. Roads like the one above require quite a bit of concentration to ride, especially on a bike like mine.  It was hours and hours (and hours) of careful riding in the hot sun. I was already exhausted and sore by the time I reached Taytay.

I had been through Taytay before, but a new Australian friend told me to check out the old Spanish fort on the water there. I’m so glad I did! It was well worth the small admission price. Great for photos, especially on a nice day.

Fort Santa Isabel Photos

It is said that Taytay was ruled by a monarch king before the arrival of the Spanish. The king was waited on hand-and-foot by 10 scribes. After being conquered by the Spanish, Taytay became the capital of Palawan (then known as Paragua) in 1818.

Historic Taytay fort, known as Fuerza de Santa Isabel, was built in 1667. I think it was only 20 pesos to visit.  I loved seeing the artifacts in the museum, as well as the colorful tropical flowers along the outside walls.

You can still see the chapel and vintage military equipment, such as the canons they used to fight off Moro invaders. Such a fascinating place, I can’t believe I didn’t know about it on my previous trips to Palawan!

When I wrapped up my tour, I came back to find this little man trying to steal my bike! Haha…JK, that’s not mine. Have you already forgotten what my motorbike looks like?

One Wrong Turn is One Too Many

You’d think I would just stay there in Taytay, knowing how exhausted I was after this epic day of riding. The problem was that I was still hours away from Puerta Princesa, where I had an early flight the next morning. I basically had no choice but to push through. I stopped at an eatery near the turnoff to Puerto.

There was a roundabout, and it sent the road in 4 different directions. Confused and with no sign, I asked the woman at the eatery which direction I needed to go. She pointed to the same road I suspected.

Now, as a general rule, when traveling in another country, I always ask 3 separate people for directions…and make sure they all give the same answer before I follow it. This helps avoid language barrier issues, or just those times when people want to give you some kind of answer instead of admitting that they don’t know (you’d be surprised how often this happens).

Well, I went outside and asked a worker on the street as well. He pointed to the same road, so because I didn’t have a third person to ask (and I thought it was the right way already), I continued on my way. I couldn’t wait to be back in Puerto resting.

 *If you’re wondering, I took this most of these shots with my Sony RX100III. <–Amazon, but in the PHL you can find it HERE.

I was making good time…about 50 kms down the road when I noticed a tour bus that said “Puerto Princesa” pass the opposite direction. Wait a minute…if that bus was going to Puerto Princesa, that meant I had been going the wrong way for 50kms already! I was heartbroken.

I had to turn around and head all the way back to Taytay…adding an extra 100kms to my trip home. This is why I always ask THREE separate people. Haha.

Very, Very Happy To Get To Pagdayon Traveler’s Inn

Anyhow, after many long, dark hours, I finally made it back to Puerto Princesa. I was mentally and physically destroyed. I limped into a native-styled guest house that caught my eye when I arrived the first time. The owner was also very kind, and even recognized me from the blog! What a small world.

It was called Pagdayon Traveler’s Inn, and it’s really a great value. I think I paid 900 pesos ($18) for an aircon room with a private bathroom, veranda, and 2 beds. There was a particularly good breakfast included the next morning as well. Oh, and it’s so close to the airport.

If you’re lucky enough to catch the owner himself, he’s very nice, and can provide a wealth of information about touring Palawan. Famished, I asked for advice on where to eat dinner, and he pointed me to KaLui restaurant, right across the street. Man, am I happy I listened to him…

KaLui Restaurant Photos

Wow. KaLui is such a beautiful place. I have no idea how they manage to keep their prices so reasonable.  The ambience is warm and inviting, with native styling and artwork surrounding you. Expect to see a lot of tourists, because this is the #1 restaurant in Puerto Princesa. I can see why–the seafood was delicious and the experience is worth every penny.

I’m more of a traveler than a tourist, so I don’t always have room (or money) for souvenirs. However, I was visiting friends after this trip, so I decided to check out some of the handicrafts made by local Palawan tribes. So cool, and surprisingly affordable! This is very close to KaLui as well. 

Before I knew it, my epic day of travel was behind me, and I was snoozing back at the inn.

I’ll never forget this trip. 1000 (accident-free!) kilometers around one of the most breathtaking tropical islands in the world–truly the ride of a lifetime. Big thanks to all who made it possible, and all of you following along.  If you have any questions about this trip, feel free to let me know.

Stay tuned on FB for the next big adventure!

By the way, and the Philippines has excellent budget flights available. I flew to Manila from Singapore for just $40, and to to the paradise of Palawan from Manila for just $25! You can scan for the best deals HERE. 

Cheers.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Pt 1. <  Pt 2. <  Pt 3. <  Pt 4.  < Pt.5 < Pt 6. < Pt 7. < Pt 8.

*Aside from the tiny issue of my chain coming off (it happens to all motorbikes occasionally), my Kawasaki performed flawlessly on this trip. Started up every time, and I never had so much as a flat tire. It was very generously provided by rent-a-bike.ph, just steps from the Puerto Princesa airport. It’s the ONLY place I know of where you can choose & reserve a reliable bike online before your trip. Highly recommended. (Sorry, I think it may be closed now?)

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt.8: Sibaltan to Fort Santa Isabel…and “Home” appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words &Photos By Nathan Allen

The Ride of a Lifetime: Chapter 7

After exploring Duli and Diapila Beaches on my motorcycle, I continued north east up and around the top of Palawan island. I was heading somewhere I’d never been, to Sibaltan and the more remote eastern side of the island.

My destination was Tapik Beach Park and Resort, which had extended a generous offer to host me. Travelers are starting to explore this side of the island, in hopes of escaping the more crowded spots like El Nido.

The Rustic Beach Resort I’ve Always Imagined

When I arrived, I could see the appeal–this is the backpacking beach-mecca many dream of! A rustic native-styled property right on the water, with tent sites, huts and bungalows climbing up the side of a hill overlooking the sea.

The owner is named Voltaire, and yes, if you think you have an idea where the name came from, you are right. His brother’s name is Rudyard:) Hats off to this well-read father of theirs.

Voltaire is a great guy, and he quickly showed me to my room up on the hill. There was much to love about it…first, the elevated location ensures a nice breeze, which is much welcomed in beach cottages without aircon (there is a fan, though…and that’s what I actually prefer). The natural aircon up here is amazing!

Second, it feels somewhat private, with other bungalows being up or down the path in other directions.

Third, a mosquito net is provided, and even though I didn’t see any up on the hill, travelers love to have peace of mind. Especially in countries with a (very tiny) risk of malaria or dengue.

Finally, fourth, there is a great view of sunrise directly out the window, and right over the water. Can’t beat that!

There was even a proper bathroom and shower in my room…with nice tiling and everything.

4. Ocean view from my cottage up on the hill 5. Adobo (Filipino Dish) for dinner

Check Tapik Beach Park rates HERE

You can meet backpackers and travelers from all over the world at Tapik, and the kind of people who end up there really seem to be genuine, quality people. Dinner and drinks at the bar is usually a lively affair, and there is a local version of a billiard table, along with darts and DJ / Music station on the side. The staff is highly entertaining and personable. They make you feel comfortable right away.

The beach at Tapik is pretty nice, and I definitely recommend waking up for sunrise. If you really want to be “wowed”, consider taking an incredible island hopping / snorkeling tour! When I say “incredible”, it’s kind of an understatement. This place is unreal–without a doubt, the best corals and undersea life I have experienced in the Philippines (and I have been all over the islands for many years documenting the reefs).

Photos From Tapik’s Island Hopping Tour

Pical, Iloc Island

I joined 2 very friendly German and Spanish groups for this tour. We had lunch on the beach in Pical, part of Iloc island. As crazy as my life is, I should not have been surprised to see actual TURKEYS in the village–and on Thanksgiving, no less! What are the chances? I’ve never seen a turkey in 4 years exploring the Philippines.

Anyway, this is an absolutely stunning beach, and if you walk north a little ways, you can find a picturesque grove of coconut trees (see below), and also some friendly local kids (it helps if you try to learn and speak some Filipino with them).

The photos above were captured with my Canon Powershot G3x <-Amazon (In the PHL you can find it HERE)

(Continued below)

Coral Gardens While Snorkeling

Unforgettable! Make sure the boat drops you off in deep water so you don’t risk puncturing your feet (or damaging the coral). Contact with human skin can cause coral infections, so it’s best to wear a life vest so you never have to touch your feet on the bottom. This is a unique and delicate ecosystem that needs to be preserved.

Speaking of which, studies show that much of our sunblock maybe be killing the coral reefs. Just make sure you wear “reef safe” sunblock in the water (I think the harmful ingredients are “oxybenzone”…often the “kid-safe” sunblock is actually better for the reefs as well.  Put it on before you go out in hot weather, otherwise you might sweat it all off…or lose it in the water. It’s best to apply it in front of the fan and let it absorb for at least 10 minutes. Anyway, you’ll burn if you don’t!

By the way, I took the photos above with my Olympus TG-4 underwater camera, which I highly recommend.

Other Activities @ Tapik

Voltaire also offers unique local experiences like waterfall trekking and fishing. On the latter trip, our boatman’s name was Benji, and being from Mactan, Cebu, he was happy I could speak a tiny bit of his local language, Cebuano.

We didn’t catch any fish (I swear I am not good luck when fishing), but we had a great time out on the water just the same. We ended up exploring some rugged, remote coastline where we saw a giant sea turtle, and even stopped in Benji’s more recent hometown of San Miguel. Being invited into his home to meet his grandmother and have coffee + “pan de sal” bread was a unique experience I’ll never forget.

I’ll save that trip (along with stunning Linapacan Island) for another post…

Contact Info, Reviews & Rates

Anyhow, Tapik is highly recommended. It may not be the cheapest no-frills backpacking place you can find in Palawan (though it probably is on this side of the island), but it is super affordable, especially considering the experience you get. I really love the staff, and the fact that it’s 100% Filipino owned and operated – something that is unfortunately not too common in Palawan. Enjoy this unique experience!

Check Tapik Beach Park rates HERE

How to get to and around the Philippines? My flight scanner of choice can be found HERE.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Pt 1. <  Pt 2. <  Pt 3. <  Pt 4.  < Pt.5 < Pt 6. < Pt 7. > Pt 8.

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt. 7: Tapik Beach Park Island Hopping appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

The Ride of a Lifetime: Chapter 5

On the ride from Long Beach, San Vicente to stunning El Nido, I encountered some beautiful scenery.

These are my favorite kinds of days for landscape photography. I always say…no clouds = boring. Too many clouds…also = boring. I like blue skies with just the right amount of puffy, white clouds. You’ll notice this is frequently featured in my photography.

Anyhow, after a few amazing days in El Nido, I headed north into uncharted territory, at least for me. I had to take refuge from the rain under the roof of a “sari sari” store on the way, and then eventually made my way to Duli Beach, which has become a popular surfing spot in north Palawan.

A few years back there weren’t many tourists coming here at all, but now word has spread, and quite a few adventurers are renting motorbikes and exploring these beautiful northern beaches. I didn’t spend too much time at Duli actually, and I don’t even have good photos to share. Haha. The weather wasn’t great there, and I was never planning on surfing or anything.

Instead, my goal was to make it all the way to Qi Palawan on the eastern side of the island. However, on a whim, I did decide to head down an unknown dirt road nearby, hoping it would quickly lead me to a new beach to explore.

Well, the road just kept going and going…it also had some large hills and plenty of rough, muddy patches. Every now and again I would see a tiny hand painted sign saying “Tin’s Canteen, this way —>”. There was hardly anything out there, so I became intrigued by these vague signs. The rough, dirt road seemed endless. I really felt like I was in the middle of nowhere.

Diapila Bay – My First Glimpse

Eventually the road led me up to lookout point…and wow, was I glad I continued all the way up there! It was an incredible view of a colorful fishing village below. I had come so far, I knew I had to explore this place…below is a close up photo with my Canon Powershot G3x (Find it HERE in PHL or SG)

I continued down the steep, rocky dirt road. It led me through a basketball game some local teens were playing, and I noticed a small opening nearby that led to the beach.

Suddenly the view widened, and I found myself staring out at the picturesque fishing village of Diapila Beach.

To my right was the fabled “Tin’s Canteen”, and Tin herself came out to greet me. It was just a simple shack right on the beach, but then again, I suppose that’s exactly what I was hoping for. Haha. It was after lunch, and I was starving. I ordered a drink and some fresh caught fish. There wasn’t a tourist in sight.

(Continued below…but I’d be honored if you follow along with me on FB)

After chatting with Tin for a while, I learned that her family came from Cebu and Masbate, both of which I had a chance to explore previously, so along with her husband, we reminisced about the language, food, and culture of Cebuanos and Masbateños. They were very kind.

The fish portion was massive, and that explained why the price seemed a bit high at first (by Filipino standards). It turns out that for the size and quality, it was actually a great deal! It could be good for 2.

Some locals kids became interested in the photos I was taking, and they requested I take some pictures of them. The older boys got excited and started “flipping out” on the beach. Literally. Haha.  I noticed a small boat with “Tao Philippines” painted on the side. I learned that this village is so remote, it’s usually only accessed by boat. In fact, it is one of the stops on the famed Tao Philippines island hopping tour.

Fishing Boats & Storm Clouds – Photos

It’s not easy to catch these kinds of dramatic colors in the sky and on the water. I was lucky to have the storm clouds in the distance.

These were taken with my Canon Powershot G3x <-Amazon (In the PHL or SG you can find it HERE)

Riding Off Into the Sunset (Or Rainstorm, As it Turns Out)

Feeling full and completely pleased with my unexpected discovery, I said my goodbyes to this nice family, and started on my way. I noticed these boats being carved on my way back up the mountain. What a worthwhile discovery Diapila Bay was!

At the vista point near the top, I noticed some storm clouds rolling in over the sea, creating some beautiful hues in the sky and water. Great for pictures, but as you’ll see if you read about my journey from here to Qi Palawan, those storm clouds created quite a challenge for me about an hour or two later.

I continued down the road and snapped one last photo before the heavens opened up on me…

Next chapter: The Wet & Wild Ride to Qi Palawan Resort

Curious about the cost of flights to and around the Philippines?

Pt 1. <  Pt 2. <  Pt 3. <  Pt 4.  < Pt.5 > Pt 6. > Pt 7. > Pt 8.

*Motorbike for this trip supplied by www.rent-a-bike.ph.

If you notice any misinformation or something that needs correcting, please don’t hesitate to let me know!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt.5: Diapila Beach, an Accidental Discovery appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

The following is my review of Long Beach, San Vicente, a beautiful stop along my tour of Palawan.

 Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

The Ride of a Lifetime: Chapter 4

My next stop was San Vicente’s “Long Beach” to the north–the longest stretch of white-sand beach in the Philippines. 14kms, I believe. However, getting there would be a real challenge. This time there WAS a dirt road connecting Port Barton and San Vicente, but it is quite long, and very rough.

Much of it was muddy after the recent rains, so that made things even more challenging, especially on a street bike with slick tires. As I was on a mission to take photos along the way anyhow, I just took my time and rode cautiously.

Bigaho Falls

About 30 minutes outside of Port Barton, I came into a small village and noticed a sign for “Bigaho Falls”. I like to “leave no stone unturned”, so of course I stopped to check it out. Very rewarding! There is a short hike through a beautiful and rustic community.

The waterfall is quite beautiful in my opinion, and the pool at the base is nice and refreshing. It’s a cool, shady area with a few large boulders you can climb around on. Nice place for photos.

The rocks are a bit slippery, so be careful. You can take a refreshing swim here, but prepare yourself for the cold!

I believe you can also take a boat tour here from Port Barton–it’s only about a 20 minute ride (and a 15 minute hike).

I was fortunate to have such nice weather here. This really was one of the most friendly and picturesque areas I have visited in the Philippines.

In Order: 1. Trail passing through native huts in Bigaho village 2. Colorful clothes drying in the jungle

A native house in the Philippines is called a “bahay kubo”, and they are often made of bamboo and nipa materials. This is one of the most beautiful examples I have ever come across!

It was a rewarding stop with plenty of good pictures, but I had much more ground to cover. I hopped back on the bike, and soon all signs of life had faded from view.

Letting My Instincts Guide Me…

I had assumed there was only one road, so it should be easy to navigate all the way to San Vicente. However, it was very remote out there, and the dirt road split off quite a few times. There are no people and no signs, so I really had to use my intuition.

I ended up studying the tire tracks in the dirt, to see which direction the majority of traffic was heading. I assumed that must be the way to San Vicente. In the end….whew. I was right.

Untouched, Remote Beaches

Being deep in the jungle for some time, I was relieved to catch a glimpse of the sea finally. As long as the coast was on the left, I knew I was going the right way. Haha. I was treated to some incredible views out here. Being so isolated on rough, dirt roads, I doubt many people have even seen some of these beaches.  What a feeling it was to be there…just my bike and I–not a soul around.

Thankfully the nice weather continued, so I wasn’t hit with any rain to further muddy up there roads. A couple times snakes, lizards, and even turtles scurried across my path…that was a first for me in the Philippines. I loved seeing all the wildlife. For many more hours in the hot, tropical sun, I carefully negotiated the rocky (and sometimes muddy) dirt road.

Crossing Rivers & Bridges

There were a few sections of road that were completely flooded. I really wasn’t sure how to get across–I had to get off the bike and really study the situation. I didn’t know how deep and soft the mud was. My bike wasn’t exactly designed for situations like this. Haha.

In photos: My motorbike confronted by a flooded section of road, and other shots crossing a river on a wooden bridge

I ended up slowly skirting the muddy edge of the pool, and somehow avoided dropping the bike and all my gear. I guess all my trail riding in California paid off. I found a picturesque wooden bridge and figured it’s a good place for a motorcycle photo shoot…

After what seemed like forever, I was dumped into a decent-sized town, and that was a welcomed sight. I was mentally and physically exhausted after such a long, technical ride. My shoulders ached. You can imagine how much sun I had been getting riding the past few days, too.

It wasn’t clear which direction Long Beach was, so I stopped and asked directions. Turned out I was just a few kms away. When I finally joined the road alongside the famous beach, I could hardly contain my excitement. It really is almost completely undeveloped.

Long Beach At Last…

It’s easy to see how Long Beach is the “longest stretch of white sand” in the Philippines….if you catch it at the right angle, you can see that the beach goes on for miles and miles. I’d love to see it from a plane someday!

You really can have the beach to yourself…there’s hardly any development, but I doubt this will last long. Be wary of sand fleas, depending on the season.

I followed one of the only signs I could find, one pointing to “Turublien Resort”. The groves of coconut trees and perfect beach to my right was just too much ignore. I had to get of the bike and take some photos.

It Takes a (Fishing) Village…

Further up the trail I spotted two local fishermen pulling a net onto the shore. Soon many villagers joined in to help. I had witnessed this previously in Antique province, it was called “sahid fishing”. The locals (including children sometimes) work together to pull a heavy catch in from the sea. Sometimes it takes up to 2 hours, but then they all split the catch afterward.

(Continued below…but I’d be honored if you follow along with me on FB)

This fishing boat on Long Beach was captured with my Canon Powershot G3x <-Amazon (In the PHL or SG you can find it HERE)

Just before I reached the resort, I came across hundreds of fish drying on trays in the sun. When I noticed a few dogs playing by the water, I really had to do a double take. They weren’t dogs at all–they were pigs! These happy pigs roam one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, rolling around in the sand and cooling off in the sea.

More Long Beach photos: Thousands of fish drying on racks under the sun, while pigs roam the beach and locals ride through the sand on motorbikes

Another interesting things about Long Beach is that the locals ride their motorbikes right alongside the water. I suppose it really is the fastest way to get from point A to point B on a vast stretch of beach like this.

Turublien Long Beach Inn & Bar

When I finally arrived at the resort, you can imagine how exhausted I was. I was hot, dusty, sunburned, and covered in sweat. Alex, the owner of the simple place, was very helpful. He quickly brought me some cold water and cooked an excellent meal.

Turublien is one of very few lodging options on Long Beach. This is by far the more rustic and affordable option. The other is a very fancy resort called “Club Agutaya”. I hear it’s owned by the Governor of Palawan.

Photos of Turublien beachfront and lagoon

Sharing the place with me was a French/American couple, and 2 women from Denmark. Being the only people for quite a distance in any direction, the 5 of us quickly bonded, discussing my Danish heritage, travel blogging, and newly elected President Trump, among other things.

Also pictured are some friendly locals who were in Palawan for work. They stopped by for dinner and we had a great time hanging out.

Long Beach Moonglow

What a view we had. As the sun began to set, the sky lit up with fiery sunset hues. We noticed giant bats, known as “flying foxes”, making their nightly pilgrimages in search of fruit. Alex mentioned that we could go for a night swim and see the glowing plankton in the water.

How surreal it was to be out there in the warm, tropical sea…with each movement creating a glowing, phosphorescent trail through the water. I looked up in the fading light and saw a full, yellow moon rising from the coconut trees. I’ll never forget the magic of that moment.

 *If you’re wondering, I took this shot with my Sony RX100III. <–Amazon, but in the PHL or SG you can find it here.

Turublien is a simple place, and the beach front section is only the restaurant / bar area.

The actual lodging is unique, because to get to your room, you literally  have to take a paddle boat across a lagoon. The staff will assist you in this. The rooms have air-conditioning, but are quite spartan otherwise. If you want to get away from it all and have a very unique island experience, this is the place for you. The Tripadvisor reviews are fantastic, and after meeting Alex you’ll see why.

So Happy To Meet You, Long Beach

This place is just stunning. Fine, powdery white sand as far as the eye can see–and the water’s perfect for swimming. One for the memory books. Thanks, Alex and friends!

By the way, if you take a bus or van here, it’s a much more pleasant experience. Haha. I just love to push myself and explore backroads. Next episode will take us through the stunning beach town of El Nido, and on to the relatively unexplored northern tip of Palawan. Stay tuned!

You can check Turublien rates and reviews HERE

Check out other Palawan hotels HERE

Wondering how much flights to and around the Philippines might cost?

 Pt 1. <  Pt 2. <  Pt 3. <  Pt 4.  > Pt.5 > Pt 6. > Pt 7. > Pt 8.

*Motorbike for this trip was graciously provided by rent-a-bike.ph

If you notice any misinformation or something that needs correcting, please don’t hesitate to let me know!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt.4: Long Beach, San Vicente – A Wild Ride appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Below you’ll find my Port Barton review, I stopped here on a memorable journey around Palawan island.

The Ride of a Lifetime: Chapter 3

After I said goodbye to my new friends at Daluyon Resort in Sabang, I started the long ride to Port Barton, a place I have always dreamed of visiting. I actually had to backtrack a bit to get there, because there aren’t too many roads in this region yet. When I realized it was late afternoon and I hadn’t even reached the cutoff for Port Barton yet, I decided to stop at a local eatery. I was starving. Here’s a photo:

These are called “carinderias” in the Philippines, and this one was owned by a nice woman with a daughter in Canada. She was interested in my tourism projects, and I enjoyed practicing some Filipino (the national language) with her. She also taught me a bit about their local language, called Cuyonon.

End Of The (Paved) Road

Anyway, I thanked her, said goodbye, and turned off the main highway just as the afternoon sun was starting to fade. The small paved road I was on grew more and more narrow with each kilometer.  The nipa houses and shops started to disappear, and soon I was on a dirt road deep in the jungle.

For quite some time, there wasn’t a structure or person in sight. I motored loudly along, apologizing to the silent spirit of the jungle. Haha. I had to be careful on that slippery, muddy road. It started to rain, but luckily, just a tiny bit. This ended up being great practice for some of the very challenging riding the next few days.

I rode on and on, and just before it was completely dark, the road came to a dead end at the sea. I made it! There, I was greeted by a helpful boatman named Jensen. He was so nice that I decided to go on his island hopping tour the next morning. He pointed me to my destination, which was Summerhomes Palawan. I was so thankful to have a nice meal and get some good rest after my ride.

Port Barton Island Hopping Photos

I woke to a beautiful day in the paradise of Palawan…as promised, I met kuya Jensen and a small group of tourists on the beach the next morning. One man was from Russia, and the two women were from Belgium I think. In anxious anticipation the adventure ahead, we headed out to sea. First stop was snorkeling, where we were able to see a few sea turtles, along with stunning German Island in the distance.

German Island

This island has a private owner, but your tour can still stop there (assuming you purchased the right one). As far as I know, there is no charge to visit German Island. You can snorkel around here, but finding the best corals can be a bit tricky, so be sure to ask a knowledgeable guide. You may see a turtle as well!

Exotic Island’s “Water Bridge”

After this, we docked our boat on beautiful “Exotic Island”. This really is an incredible place to swim and relax. This kind of paradise is why I always travel with an ultralight hammock!

There are actually 2 islands here, with a crossing that gets swallowed up by the sea at high tide. Pretty unique!

This was our view from the boat as we left…and it was hard to say goodbye.

Port Barton hotel rates and reviews HERE (Agoda) or HERE (Booking.com)

Twin Reef Snorkeling Photos

We continued to Twin Reef for snorkeling…with some of the best corals I’ve seen anywhere in Palawan…and even in the Philippines! I really didn’t expect it. As always, I recommend using “reef safe” or “child friendly” sunblock if you’re going in the water. That kind generally doesn’t damage the corals.

It’s best to put it on 15-20 minutes before you go out and start sweating in the sun, otherwise it will be wasted (and contaminate the water).

There were also plenty of giant plate corals here. Really cool! Hopefully the boatman will drop you off in deep water, so you never touch the bottom. It’s best to avoid puncturing your skin, or damaging the fragile ecosystem here. Wearing a life vest is recommended – that way you can rest at the surface without having to put your feet down.

(Continued below…but I’d be honored if you follow along with me on FB)

Lunch, & The Sandbar @ Starfish Island

After a lunch of fresh caught fish in our nipa hut, our last stop was a sandbar full of starfish in the shallows. Our guide picked one up to show us, but I’m not sure this is good for the starfish. Probably best to avoiding touching any sea life.

4. Tourist Silhouettes on Sandbar 5. Starfish from the sea

By now the afternoon sun was creeping toward the horizon. We made our way back to the beach in town, and I snapped a few more photos along the way. 

Overall, it was well worth the price of the tour, which is about half of what you’ll pay in places like El Nido now. Kuya Jensen’s boat is called “Tres Palawaneños”, and his contact # is: 09216269191

Mangrove River Tour Photos

The next day, Summerhomes offered another fascinating tour, this time of the nearby mangrove forests.

It’s a mystical place, full of colorful kingfisher birds and beautiful mangrove snakes that sleep high in the branches during the day. There’s nothing like slipping silently through these waters and taking in the otherworldly landscape.

3. Mangrove Snake high in trees 4. Lone fisherman on rustic boat

Pamuayan Falls Ride + Trek

The last tour I did was self guided, as I rode my motorcycle there. It’s a short trek to Pamuayan Waterfall, about 3 or 4 kms away. It’s a beautiful place, worth the trek if you ask me. If you ride there, it’s only about a 1km hike afterward. Just make sure you get good directions from your resort or from a local. If you prefer, you can pay for a guide / transport.

A Sunset Walk In The Village

I love low-light photography. It was nice to make friends with some families in the village nearby, and then take these shots of the kids (and cat) playing by the sea. Further up the coast, I found a group of fishermen pulling a large net in from the sea.

If you’re wondering, I took almost all (dry land) photos with my Sony RX100III. It’s a powerhouse of a little camera! That link is for Amazon, but in the Philippines you can find it here.

Hot To Get To Port Barton

There are Recaro vans which can transport you here to Port Barton from Puerto Princesa. They take 3 or 4 hours and the cost is 350 pesos ($7). There is an open air bus that is 100 pesos cheaper, check the Puerto Princesa bus terminal for more info. Note: You can also take a boat from here to Sabang if the weather is nice, and even from here  to El Nido!

The town has a great vibe, and is not nearly as crowded as other beach destinations in Palawan. There are plenty of restaurants and lodging options, yet it doesn’t feel overdeveloped at all. The paved road will be completed soon though, so let’s hope it retains its small town charm in the future!

Oh, almost forgot! They are starting to throw full moon parties in Port Barton, so if you happen to be in Palawan during that time, check it out.

Hotels – Where to Stay

You can check Port Barton hotel rates and reviews HERE (Agoda) or HERE (Booking.com)

Curious about how much a flight to Palawan (or the Philippines) costs? You might be surprised, check it out.

Special thanks to Summerhomes Palawan for making this part of my journey possible. The next episode is the verrrrry arduous ride to Long Beach, San Vicente. The longest white-sand beach in the Philippines! Spoiler: It was worth it.

Pt 1. <  Pt 2. <  Pt 3. >  Pt 4.  > Pt.5 > Pt 6. > Pt 7. > Pt 8.

*Motorbike for this trip was graciously provided by www.rent-a-bike.ph.

If you notice any misinformation or something that needs correcting, please don’t hesitate to let me know!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt. 3: Port Barton Island Hopping appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos By Nathan Allen – Updated January 18, 2021

The Ride of a Lifetime: Chapter 2

I said goodbye to the wonderful staff at Ivywall Hotel in Puerto Princesa and started riding north toward the beach town of Sabang. Before I left city proper, I noticed Robinson’s shopping mall on the right. I prefer to support “mom & pop” stores, but with limited time, this is probably your best best to find everything you need. Once you’re in paradise, options will be few and far between, and possibly more expensive.

Viet Ville Restaurant

Further up the road on the same side, you can find “Vietnamese Village”. During the Vietnam War, many refugees came to this part of Palawan, and a few remnants of their culture remains. There is a restaurant, a few bakeries, and even a Buddhist temple here.

This is a very worthwhile photo stop on the way to Sabang, because you can order some fresh baked Bánh mì (bread) and delicious phở gà, or chicken soup. The staff was very kind, and the decor and surroundings were quite beautiful.

The Fascinating Landscapes of Sabang

Soon, I was well on my way through the jungles and limestone cliffs near Sabang. There is nothing quite like this region in the Philippines. Tall, elegant trees with slender white trunks provide shade along the way. If you happen to know the name of these trees, please let me know!

To me they make the area look reminiscent of an African landscape…I kept expecting to see giraffes as I turned each corner! You will also pass quite a few sleepy local villages and huts along the way.

Karst Mountain – Elephant Cave

After a while I noticed some fascinating limestone cliffs on the right, jutting up from the rice fields. I decided to stop and hike around a bit. A signpost read that this is the “Elephant Cave”, and the location of one of the Amazing Race episodes. Today there wasn’t a soul around, just a lonely carabao (water buffalo) and I.

This was also a great place to take a photo of my trusty traveling companion:

As you can see below, I trekked around here a bit. Sometimes in the tropics, you have to take your flip flops off to avoid breaking them. They get stuck in the mud with each step, and when you pull your foot up, you can easily tear the strap. I’ve learned my lesson on previous trips:) Anyhow, it’s nice to feel the mud between your toes sometimes, right?

What you don’t see is the close up of all the bug bites I received on my feet during this trip. You’re welcome.

Don’t forget that insect repellent!

(Sabang, Puerto Princesa in photos: 1. Countryside hut made from bamboo 2. Tropical yellow flower near Elephant Cave 3. My muddy feet trekking through the grass

This is a great location to see the majestic limestone cliffs and mountains in the area. Just be warned, people familiar with the Rockies, Andes, or Alps might just call these “hills”. Haha. Very beautiful, in any case. 

Scenic Sabang Beach, Palawan

Soon I was back on the bike and arriving at Sabang Beach in no time. It was about a 4 hour ride, including my photo breaks. This area is famous because of the Underground River, but scenically, it’s also one of my favorite beaches in the Philippines.

I love how the coconut trees and fishing boats line the beach, and how you can see lush, green mountains off in the distance. This is the rugged paradise I came for.

One reason you don’t hear much about Sabang Beach is because it’s steep, and has a strong current. This doesn’t make it well suited for swimming, but for taking photos or simply relaxing in a hammock, it’s just perfect. Watch out for sand fleas (locally known as nikniks). They tend to be along the water’s edge around sunrise and sunset. I heard OFF lotion helps, but I can’t confirm.

These bites are the worst! Like mosquito bites that itch for 2 weeks instead of 15 minutes.

Anyhow…

My ultimate destination after this ride was Daluyon Beach and Mountain Resort, which was kind enough to invite me to share the experience with you. What an incredible place to rest and relax after a full day of riding and shooting! I recommend reading the full blog post when you get a chance.

Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park

I enjoyed Sabang Beach on a previous trip, but what I actually came for this time is the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park. It’s been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.

The next morning I woke up and met my guide Jay from 8 Dragons Tour Company. They were very kind to provide my tour as a token of thanks for promoting the Philippines. They even mentioned there was no need to promote their business specifically, but I honestly had a great time, and I love to share the best with my readers.

We ended up joining a boat with a family from the Bay Area in California, exactly where I’m from! What are the chances? Water was a bit choppy due to the windy season, but it was nothing we couldn’t handle. Within 20 minutes we arrived at the walkway to the world famous Underground River, one of the longest navigable water caves in the world.

Wildlife Near Underground River Entrance

On the walk to board the actual Underground River tour boat, you’ll have a chance to see some of the exotic animals that can be found in Palawan.

Giant Monitor Lizards

You will probably see large monitor lizards along the sides of the trails. They are harmless, unless you push your luck and get too close. These are relatives of the giant Komodo Dragons of Indonesia. They’re definitely not that large, but they still probably weight up to 25kgs (55lbs), and for a lizard, that’s pretty massive.

Monkeys

Monkeys can be found scavenging around the site, and if you’re carrying a plastic bag or snacks, they might come right up to you and swipe it out of your hands! They do this in other countries as well. It’s best to avoid carrying anything they might be interested in. They can be surprisingly aggressive if you challenge them, and you don’t want to cut your trip short because of an infectious bite or scratch from a cheeky monkey.

The Underground River Tour

I boarded the boat with the same group, but an elderly couple joined us and sat in the very front. I’m not sure if they were elder missionaries, or just a young-at-heart, but I loved the fact that they were on the other side of the world taking a boat tour through a mysterious jungle cave together at this age. Life goals!

The Underground River tour now includes an audio accompaniment. They provide headphones, which you can keep afterward. This was one of my favorite things about the tour, so kudos to whoever thought of it. Somehow closing yourself off in your own little “headphone world” makes it feel more personal and intimate.

The narration is quite fascinating and informative…my only suggestion is that they consider having a Filipino English speaker do the narration next time. It’s a bit odd to be in the Philippines, a very capable English-speaking country in SE Asia, and hear the narration done by a British person.

Just as many others are, the cave itself is home to thousands of bats. You can see them peppering the ceiling along the way, assuming your guide has his flashlight aimed correctly. If you’re lucky, you might see a snake or two as well…they climb high up on the walls and snatch bats right out of mid air!

Along the way, the narrator will point out plenty of formations that resemble various animals, objects, and in a highly Catholic country, religious figures. Of course, there are plenty of stalactites and stalagmites as well. The scale of this water cave really is just massive. It’s no wonder it’s been named one of the world’s “New 7 Wonders of Nature”.

I don’t recommend using your camera flash here, so it helps if you have a very fast, low-light lens. Mine has an f1.8 aperture, so it worked pretty well to capture the enchanting scenes along the way. A piece of advice, though: Water drops fall from the cave ceiling every now and then, so be mindful of that. I had one hand covering my camera for a good portion of the tour, just in case.

Now that I think about it, a very good camera for this tour would be the Olympus TG-4, which I have previously reviewed. It has a fast f2.0 lens, and is completely waterproof! It takes great pictures, and is also a perfect underwater camera for snorkeling and diving in the Philippines.

After our tour, the American group decided to do the jungle hike on the way back (instead of returning in the boat). That is another option, just so you know. I caught up with them later on the beach in Sabang, and they said they quite enjoyed it.

(Continued below…but I’d be honored if you follow along with me on FB)

Filipino Food Lunch Buffet – and Tamilok!

My guide Jay and I took the boat back, and then walked to the far end of Sabang Beach, where a nice buffet of local Filipino food was waiting for us. Your guide can help make recommendations or answer any questions you might have about the food.

This is something interesting: At many buffets in the Philippines, they will actually charge you extra if you don’t finish all your food! This must be to keep people from feeding their friends with their single purchase:)

It’s a steep penalty, too! 200 pesos is equal to $1,000USD. OK, OK….just kidding. It’s actually less than $5, but still! Haha.

If it’s available, you might be able to try the infamous “tamilok” or giant “wood worm” here. You may have seen it on TV. I was able to try it at Daluyon Resort where I stayed. They made “kinilaw”, or Filipino ceviche with it. I guess that’s kind of cheating, but at least I tried it! Haha.

By the way, I took virtually all the shots on this page with my Sony RX100III. It’s a powerhouse of a little camera! That link is for Amazon, but in the Philippines or Singapore you can find it here.

All in all, the Underground River Tour was much better than I expected it to be. It can book up quickly, so try to make your reservations as early as possible. You can contact 8 Dragons Tour company HERE.

You can check hotel rates and reviews in this area HERE (Agoda), or HERE (Booking.com)

Flights to and around the Philippines don’t cost as much as you might think.

Big thanks to Jennifer & Jay @ 8 Dragons, and Kimberly @ Daluyon for making this leg of my Palawan trip possible. Next episode is the adventurous off road ride to the beautiful and sleepy beach town of Port Barton…

Pt 1. <  Pt 2. >  Pt 3. >  Pt 4.  > Pt.5 > Pt 6. > Pt 7. > Pt 8.

*Motorbike for this trip was graciously provided by www.rent-a-bike.ph.

If you notice any misinformation or something that needs correcting, please don’t hesitate to let me know!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Have something to add?  Please leave a comment! 

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt. 2: The Underground River Tour + Sabang appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

For me, there is no better way to explore Palawan than by motorcycle. It is the modern day stallion, providing nomads and wanderers the ultimate freedom and mobility. As a photographer, I especially love the ability to stop along the road anywhere I see something that catches my eye.

Bus rides may be more comfortable, however, they are torture for photographers.

In the Chinese zodiac, I was born in the year of the horse. According to tradition, this perfectly explains my penchant for wandering. In other words, I need to stretch my legs; gallop far and wide. It’s fitting that I have ended up in Asia the past few years, submersing myself in cultures and climates vastly different than my own.

A Motorbike Trip On Palawan Island, Philippines

For those of you who aren’t familiar with Palawan, it’s a large Philippine island bordering the South China / West Philippine Sea. Palawan has consistently been ranked as one of the top tropical islands – with the best beaches in the world. As you’ll see later, it surely deserves the honor! Along with Boracay island, it’s one of the top tourist draws in the Philippines.

However, the island still has vast stretches of rugged, untouched jungles and white sand beaches. Well off the beaten path. That’s why when rent-a-bike.ph offered to provide me a motorcycle, I jumped at the chance.

Where To Rent a Motorcycle in Palawan

I landed in Palawan’s main hub, Puerto Princesa, and stopped by the motorcycle rental place next door to the airport. I tested out a yellow Kawasaki Rouser, and loved the way it felt. It’s an on road bike, but I’ve had heaps of practice riding off road if needed.

Rent-a-bike.ph is owned by a Russian transplant named Sergey. He offered to take me on a quick ride to some of the nice beaches nearby. I certainly looked forward to seeing this region of Palawan!

The next morning, after a great stay at the Ivywall Hotel, I met Sergey and we made our way out of town. He rode a Honda XR150, which is better for off road. It’s available for rent as well. I figured most of my riding would be on paved roads, so the Kawasaki would be more comfortable for my trip.

The roads in Palawan are nice and windy, – quite scenic as well! We pulled over at a mountainous overlook, and Sergey posed his bike so we could get this shot.

The Rough Road Trip to Kalaodiong Beach

After that, we continued to little known Kalaodiong Beach. The last stretch of road is unpaved, steep and rough. However, the beach at the end is pretty good. It’s probably the nicest, undeveloped beach relatively close to Puerto Princesa.

To clarify, there’s actually nothing on this beach. Just a few locals who might ask for 20 pesos to park your motorbike. We had more to see in this part of Palawan, so after relaxing here for a few minutes, we started back for Nagtabon beach (another gem which we had passed on the way).

There’s a vista point along the way between the two beaches…at least I think that’s where it was. If you want to relax with a fresh coconut and views out to sea, this is a great place in central Palawan.

Nagtabon Beach, Palawan

Nagtabon beach is barely developed. To be sure, there are very few options for snacks, food, and drinks. If you walk to the end of the beach, an American has returned to his roots in the Philippines and opened up a unique guest house there. I think it’s called Caroline’s Secret Resort.

It’s basically a simple beach bar, but there is a giant castle “turret” which you can stay overnight in. However, it has no windows or screens, and is a bit pricey for what you get. I suppose it’s the unique experience you’re paying for?

We were pretty hungry by the time we arrived here, so we stayed for dinner. Drinks and burgers seemed a bit expensive, however, no other options are available on the beach. Prices reflect that. It’s a bit remote, so transporting supplies probably costs him.  In any case, super nice guy.

Nagtabon Beach View, From The Castle

Here is the vista from the top of the castle turret. In addition to nice views of the beach, there’s also an adventurous rope bridge you have to cross to get up here…

Caroline’s is an excellent place for watching the sunset, too. As chance would have it, 2 women from Latvia were there practicing “stick dancing” on the beach. I captured these silhouette shots just before we left…after the sun had dipped below the horizon.

( In photos: 1. Silhouette of 2 women checking their phone on beach 2. Nagtabon Sunset landscape )

In case you’re wondering, I took these shots with my Sony RX100III. A very impressive pocket camera! That link is for Amazon, but in the Philippines or Singapore you can get it here..

We walked all the way back to the motorbikes on the other end of the beach…and of course then I realized I left my sunglasses at the resort. I told Sergey I would just meet him back in Puerto Princesa later, and then I ran back to get them.

Luckily I found the sunglasses, and trekked all the way back to the bike again. I rode back to Puerto Princesa in the dark…the trip seemed to take forever! Without a doubt, I was completely exhausted.

(Continued below…but I’d be honored if you want to follow along with me on FB)

Once back in Puerto Princesa, I met with a tour operator to get more information about my next stop, the Underground River tour in Sabang (central Palawan). She invited me on the tour as a way of saying thanks for promoting the Philippines. Very kind, and she even told me there was no need to promote her company specifically!

Looking Forward To Day 2 on the Motorbike…

Basically, this short ride was just a warm up for the rest of Palawan. Just wait until you see how much better the beaches get! The ride to Sabang the next day was unforgettable, too I’ll leave that for chapter two…

You can find hotel rates and reviews for Puerto Princesa and Palawan HERE

Pt 1. >  Pt 2. > Pt 3. >  Pt 4.  > Pt.5 > Pt 6. > Pt 7. > Pt 8.

*Motorbike for this trip was provided by www.rent-a-bike.ph.

* Updated January 18, 2021

If you notice anything that needs correcting, please don’t hesitate to let me know!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

The post Palawan By Motorcycle – Pt. 1: Puerto Princesa and Nagtabon Beach appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.