However, could I replicate this at home in the U.S.? Long term travel is much too expensive there, but at last, I figured out a simple solution.

“Lucille”, at the Petrified Forest – Arizona

I found a 2nd gen Toyota Sienna, in the exact color I wanted. I had to drive all the way to New Mexico to get it, but the cost was minimal – and it was loaded with fancy options.

It had a sunroof, leather seats, a 10 speaker JBL sound system, and most importantly…everything still worked.

“Sleeper Conversion”

Even though I’m over 6 feet tall, I loved staying in Asia’s tiny “pod hotels”. I used them for inspiration. If I was going to convert this van to a little family camper (I call it a “sleeper”), I’d have to make the bed as comfortable as possible. 

The first order of business was taking out the third row seat, which could fold down into the floor.

With that removed completely, a lot of cargo space opened up in the back. I built a bed frame with plenty of room for all our stuff underneath.

Believe it or not, we installed a full-size memory foam mattress and plush comforter. We used our large pillows from home, and even threw in one of those useless decorative cushions. This thing is cozy!

*Note, we were able to add 3 more inches of headroom since this photo was taken.

Our “sleeping pod” on wheels

The middle seats fold in half, and support the foot of the bed. When we pack up to drive, the mattress folds back on itself (totally flexible), and the middle seats pop back up for passengers.

We made custom-fit privacy covers for the windows, so the van is a completely incognito little “camper”.

Outside or In?

There are two schools of thought when it comes to RVs and camper vans. If you want to experience the outdoors on a limited basis (while having ultimate comfort in the process), a large, fancy RV is what you need. You can’t take it everywhere, and of course, you’re going to spend a lot of time behind a desk to pay for it.

However, if you plan on spending most of your time cooking, hiking, and relaxing outdoors (and you want to travel indefinitely), a humble little camper van fits the bill. You just need a comfortable, secure place to sleep. Think of it like a hard-walled tent on wheels. You save so much money, and can go soooo much further.

Yes, I learned valuable on simplicity while backpacking the world – the further you want to go, the less you end up taking with you.

Oh…and also, an adventurous spirit definitely helps.

AWD, Surprisingly Capable Off-Road

The “Alabama Hills” – California

This Toyota model (and even specific year) was carefully chosen because of its legendary reliability. It’s got a roof rack, a hitch, and a removable center console, which is super convenient (we replaced it with a fridge

Ground clearance is as good as it gets for Sienna models, but it’s still a minivan, so having a spotter definitely helps in rugged terrain.

My lil’ spotter in Moab, Utah

Our little van (we named her “Lucille”) is a perfect combination of minamalism and efficiency.

Mileage is fantastic, and she turns on a dime. We can get in and out of tricky locations where even 4X4 Sprinters won’t dare try.

Insurance is quite reasonable, parts are readily available if you happen to need them, and she is a dream to drive.

Monument Valley, AZ

This country has an abundance of beautiful public land you can camp on, and we learned there are also plenty of places you can pull in and sleep for the night. No expense whatsovever.

All of this adds up to saving a TON of money, so that means long-term U.S. travel really is feasible.

My wife, playing around in the desert

So hit the road, we did…and with no plan to come back. As you can see in the photos above, we started by driving to Arches National Park and Moab, Utah.

Our “Sun Powered” Lives

If we wake up and a certain location is warmer than we’d prefer, we simply pack up and head for higher ground. No matter where we go, we’re always “home”.

We have up to 400 watts of portable solar, and a total of 1200Kwh of battery power. This runs our little fridge, and all our devices.

We cook with a small electric induction stove. We also have a grill if we want to cook on a fire, but it’s much more messy and inconvenient.

A shade awning is a must – Ouray Colorado

It’s quite amazing how much we managed to fit in this van – we really are ready for anything.

There’s a 10ft X 10ft screen room, a full set of tables and chairs, and even a portable shower (though taking a dip in a cool, mountain stream is much more refreshing).

No swimming in Yellowstone’s hot springs

Into the Great Wide Open

It’s hard to put into words the feeling one gets from venturing untethered, deep into the American West. There is a romantic quality to it all; a poetry in the freedom to wander these vast, iconic landscapes at will.

We still have our creature comforts, and can even find signal in some of the most remote wildernesses.

The best part is we can avoid summer crowds – by carefully timing our visits to the busiest national parks.

So. Much. Wildlife.

Days turn to weeks, and before you know it, weeks can turn into a month. It’s addictive.

Here are more shots from Yellowstone National Park, and a Montana ranch where we visited friends for the 4th of July.

However, for us, Grand Tetons National Park in Wyoming was the peak of scenic beauty.

A hike to remember 

There are endless opportunities to teach my daughter about the world around us.

On this trip we spotted coyotes, elk, deer, marmots, bears, and bald eagles. Oh, and bison. Thousands of them.

She is is learning how to respect nature without being afraid – but also how to be prepared for anything.

Here we camped at a cool 8,000 feet elevation…which meant wildflowers were still blooming in the middle of summer.

Nature – It’s Not All Sunshine & Rainbows

If life were perfect all the time, I’d have no perspective to appreciate anything. That’s what I told myself as swarms of mosquitoes descended on me up here.

This was one of the few locations that we set up our screen room. Lifesaver!

There’s a strange satisfaction that comes from relaxing comfortably with a great view…and seeing hundreds of mosquitoes stuck to the netting just inches from your face.

Knowing that none of them are able to feast on you.

Ah, life’s simple pleasures.

Nothing like a campfire with a view like that.

The Sun Gives Energy…& Can Take it Away

A lesson we learned was how challenging it is keeping charged with sunlight each day. Sunny, open areas are best, but then you must be high enough in elevation to stay cool.

Lower elevations are warmer, so you need shade…but then you must keep moving the solar equipment as the shadows creep across your site every day.

Ugh.

Still worth it.

These final pictures were taken up above Mono Lake in California. The eastern Sierra is a great place to escape the peak summer heat.

What we love about being on the road is the constant new horizons. We get plenty of exercise as we hike and explore each day.

I don’t think Native Americans even had a word for exercise…

There is only living.

We fall into healthy, natural sleep cycles that follow the rising and setting of the sun.

It is a deep, restful sleep.

Not to mention how limited our screen time is, and how much we enjoy being in the great outdoors together as a family.

I’ll never forget the peace I felt waking up to a sunrise with my two favorite travel partners.

* I have included a few Amazon links to products I personally use and recommend. Visiting them will help me keep sharing adventures like this. Thanks for reading!

The post Family of 3 – So Wild, So Free appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

This photo session has a special place in my heart. Not only did it take place in one of the most beautiful destinations in the world, but it also features my lovely wife + our baby-to-be. Also: If you’re thinking about a Yosemite maternity shoot for you or someone you know, get in touch.

So…Surprise – We’re Having a Girl!

Many of you didn’t even know we were expecting. For various reasons, it’s something we wanted to keep a secret. Turns out it’s quite easy to hide a pregnancy when you live deep in the mountains during a pandemic! Haha.

Fall Colors For Our Yosemite Maternity Shoot

We were fortunate to have a warm winter this year. I’ve never seen the gold of autumn last so long into December. We found a nice spot with a boulder and some stunning colors.

We stopped at a scenic stone bridge along El Portal Road. I am the photographer of course, so I set up a tripod in the road to snap this photo. A couple passing cars made this difficult from time to time!

Speaking of stonework, further into the valley we checked out the old LaConte Memorial Lodge. This is a great setting for castle-like photographs.

I think the shot below might be my favorite of all. The patchy, late afternoon light and autumn leaves create beautiful contrast and drama. This was taken near the road to Ahwahnee Lodge.

Related post: Yosemite in the Fall

Into The Snowy Forest…

Again, the great thing about living so close to this National Park is that we could easily make a second trip. Our first one had beautiful colors in the leaves, but no snow.

The second had good snow, but as you can imagine, you have to capture these photos as quickly as possible. Island girls are not used to temperatures like these, especially when you replace a winter jacket with a maternity dress! Haha. She was a trooper, though.

There’s an almost spiritual quality to these Yosemite valley forests. An energy you feel, though is hard to define.

Here’s another favorite of mine. It was taken between two majestic pine trees on the bank of the Merced River.

A Session @ Evergreen Lodge

This toasty campfire was a welcomed sight after a chilly day in the park. We warmed our bones and finished up the shoot in this beautiful cabin-style lobby. It’s technically just outside the park, but worth a visit I think.

Also be sure can check out my extensive Yosemite & Eastern Sierra photography.

Oh, and before I forget…this baby was born! Mamma and baby are healthy and well – how’s this for a perfect ending?

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By Nathan Allen

Abandoned for many decades, it is the final resting place for many early Chinese pioneers…and currently home to a lot of colorful wildlife–such as kingfishers, woodpeckers, and even a troop of curious monkeys!

Singapore’s Chinese Heritage – Lost in a Jungle

Almost forgotten by time, the dense jungle has taken over much of this historic site. For me, that’s actually a huge part of its appeal. Bukit Brown was named after the original owner, George Henry Brown. He was a British trader that lived on this land.

Brown had sailed from Calcutta in the 1840s, and after purchasing the area, he named it “Mount Pleasant”.

It was then sold to Ong Kew Ho and Huay Kuan, but eventually transferred to the government when the need for a cemetery arose. It served Singapore’s Chinese community for about 50 years, and was actually considered the largest cemetery outside of China. It closed down decades ago, but you can still visit and take a self-guided tour of these mysterious gravesites.

I absolutely loved wandering and taking pictures here…with not a (living) soul around. It’s so solemn and peaceful – a wild and scenic counterpart to Singapore’s well-manicured green spaces (of which I am also a fan).

Photographers, birders, and general nature-lovers feel quite at home here. Have a look at this giant, “rain tree“! These are the kinds of jungle scenes I dreamed of as a kid. I never imagined ferns could grow high up in a tree, but these bird nest ferns feel right at home there.

Some Bukit Brown graves are adorned with stone statues and figurines.

This is one of those times when I wish I could read Chinese…I’m so curious about who these people were, and how they were immortalized and remembered on their tombstones.

A few have actual photos on them…and this helps to paint a picture of who these early Singaporeans actually were.

(continued below)

While exploring these jungle trails on my own, I began to hear rustling in the trees around me. I’m not a very superstitious person, but Bukit Brown is supposedly one of the top 10 haunted sites in Singapore. In fact, the “Asia Paranormal Investigators” are one of the groups working to preserve this historic cemetery!

As it turned out, these “ghosts” were of the long-tailed variety…

Spirit Guardians? – Long Tailed Macaques

Eventually I spotted a curious face through the jungle trees…it was a family of monkeys! There must have been 11 or 12 of them.

I approached slowly, but was still met with a bit of resistance. Most of the group slowly shuffled away, but the dominant male stood his ground and showed his teeth. I did not push my luck, but instead just sat peacefully, hoping to show them that I was no threat.

It worked. The old male kept a watchful eye on me, but he began to relax…and even start foraging for food around him. The female and baby monkeys slowly inched back into view.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Needing to get closer, I switched cameras. With my little Canon superzoom, I continued shooting photos in the fading afternoon light. Some of these monkeys even seemed to pose for me!

They were so fascinating to observe…I can see why anthropologists like Jane Goodall & Dian Fossey studied them so intensely. Their behavior seemed to mirror a human family’s so much…it was uncanny.

The youngest members were the most curious…but the easiest to be spooked as well. This makes sense, as they would be the most vulnerable. These baby monkeys were adorable…and so expressive!

Eventually, curiosity got the better of some members. They began to climb the trees and position themselves above me, so as to get a better look. At one point I had one almost reach down  and touch the top of my head. Of course, I didn’t let things progress too far, because wild animals are, after all, wild.

Still though, these monkeys and I bonded. They were nothing like the super aggressive ones I encountered in India or the Philippines. Those monkeys have no fear of humans, and will even steal food or attack if they feel at all threatened…or are simply in a bad mood! Haha. No…this group, this group was different.

Being in an abandoned jungle cemetery gives them some access to humans, but not too much. They are not too comfortable…but not too afraid, either. I had found a sweet spot. Being allowed to join them, in the wild…in such a humbling and surreal location…was an experience I will never forget.

How To Get There

Bukit Brown is near MacRitchie Reservoir. You can take a bus and get off here. Then walk a few steps down Kheam Hock Road until you see the sign for the cemetery on the left. I think there may be a possibility of guided tours, but I’m not certain.

Tips: If you visit Bukit Brown, I hope you’ll be respectful in this solemn place. Please don’t feed the wildlife, and be sure to pack out all of your trash. Definitely don’t forget mosquito repellent if you’re going in the morning or late afternoon. Other than that…enjoy!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

These Singapore Photos Were Shot During a 50-Cent Bus Ride (Ricoh GR II)

Singapore Street Photography (Ricoh GR II)

My Detailed Comparison of the Sony RX100 vs the Ricoh GR II

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*I am not connected to Canon, I bought the camera myself. However, using my Amazon links will help me keep creating content like this, so I appreciate it!

The post How I Was Adopted By Monkeys in Bukit Brown, a Singapore Cemetery appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Tour Departs By Boat From Palompon Town

Due to the nature of my trip (weather…possible motorbike breakdowns…etc), unfortunately I couldn’t inform the tour company exactly when I would be there. I was impressed, because even at the last minute, they were able to throw an overnight camping trip together for me. What a dream come true!

I met my guide, Mrs. Warblitz at the Palompon port early the next morning. It was a bit cloudy, so I hoped the weather would clear for nice pictures.

It was only about a 45 minute boat trip, and before I knew it, I was already exploring the tiny island! I came across the rocky beach pictured above, and also a small island chapel...as well as a tree house on the far end. I heard that it’s private property, unfortunately.

I took a few photos and made some new friends…there were some tourist groups from the Philippines, and quite a large one from China. Soon, the clouds began to part, and I was thrilled to see the sun shine down on our little island paradise…

A Picture-Perfect White Sandbar

The tide was starting to come in by the time the sun came out…so the sandbar was slowly submerged by the sea. As you can see here, there is a native-style lifeguard tower, and the lifeguard is constantly kept busy chasing after tourists who try to cross the sandbar at high tide (you’re only allowed to cross when the sandbar is exposed).

There is a small mound of sand at the end of the sandbar…it becomes its own little island at high tide, too. It’s incredibly beautiful.

Blessed by powdery white sand and the shade of plenty of coconut trees, Kalanggaman island truly is a gem in the pacific. “Langgam” means “bird” in the local dialect, and the island gets that name from its shape, when viewed from above.

I climbed up in the nipa hut lifeguard tower for a better view of the sandbar.

The lifeguards were friendly, and I interviewed them a bit as they kept watch on the beach. Below is Nick, who came to Palompon because he has family here. With all the discipline of a military man, I had no doubt that Nick and the guys would keep the island safe throughout the night.

Some tourists recognized me on the beach, and requested a photo. Thanks for sending me the picture, Mrs. Suzette!

Overnight Camping on the Island

Here I am in my own little “bahay kubo”, or native hut. Made from bamboo and nipa, these are iconic in the Philippines. I just relaxed and got some reading done in my hammock. Not a bad life!

As you can see below, the tour company took good care of me. My trip was so last minute that they were not able to include an overnight tour guide. For me this was actually ideal…I love being on my own to take photos and explore. They introduced me to the island guards and the caretaker, and left me with all the supplies I could ever need…

I had a tent, a hammock, rain gear, coffee, tea, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of Filipino foods to last many meals. I even had nachos and beer…and there was enough food to share with new friends, which is the Filipino way. The team set up a beautiful campsite before departing the island. The boat would return to pick me up in the morning.

Being left on my own beautiful tropical island…this really is the kind of adventure I’ve always dreamed of. Guess what?  It gets better…

Snorkeling Off The Beach

A local told me where I might find some corals near the beach. You’ll have to ask for specifics once you’re there. In the fading afternoon light, I managed to get some underwater photography done. Here is a small school of colorful fish above the corals.

I took the these photos with my Olympus TG-5, The Amazon link is HERE. 

There were some beautiful flower-type coral gardens, with both hard and soft corals.

I also spotted a puffer fish, a large lionfish, and a beautiful giant clam. Not bad for an island which isn’t even known for its snorkeling! Something I’ll never forget is one of the young guards who wanted to go snorkeling with me, to make sure I was safe out there.

It was actually his first time using a snorkel & mask to see underwater! He was totally blown away, and I loved watching him experience it for the first time.

TIPS: Always wear a life vest, and do not swim or snorkel near the actual sandbar. The lifeguards told me the current is incredibly strong there. Also, please apply “reef safe” sunblock if you use it, as the chemical “oxybenzone” can kill or damage the coral reefs. I think Banana Boat for kids may be OK.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Sunset on the Sandbar

By sunset, the tide had gone back down, and it was safe for us to walk along the sandbar and take photos. I can imagine the sunsets get even better than this on less cloudy days, too. Just magical.

The local guys and I listened to reggae music (I brought a tiny speaker) as we enjoyed the prepared food. Around 9pm they retired to the other end of the island, and I had the whole sandbar and coconut grove to myself. Perfect weather to sleep outside…so peaceful. I’ll never forget it.

How To Get To Kalanggaman

The most convenient way might be to take a cheap promo flight to Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, then join Leyte Gulf Travel and Tours. They provide vans for the 2-3 hour trip, and of course the boat and all your supplies.

Where to Stay

Overnight camping was pretty epic, but you can also stay in Palompon Town. I stayed at Asayas Pension Plaza…it was OK, but they don’t have online reservations.  Mrs. Warblitz or Mrs Ludette @ Leyte Gulf can make some good hotel recommendations for you if you need.

Again, many thanks to the team for providing this incredible experience! I’m not usually a “tours” kind of guy, but after experiencing everything they have to offer, I can see why it’s worth the extra money.  You can just enjoy your vacation…without the stress of planning so many things. They were super nice, and most importantly – professional.

For me, Kalanggaman Island is just incredible – not too developed or crowded…with a nice white-sand beach and plenty of shady coconut trees. Add to that friendly locals, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for paradise.

Really, this island is pure eye candy.

Enjoy, and be sure to check out my other Leyte posts!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Leyte, Philippines

My motorbike tour of Leyte Province

Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos

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By Nathan Allen

1st Stop in Southern Leyte – Peter’s Dive Resort

When Peter’s Dive Resort sent me an invite to come and experience the region for myself, I jumped at the chance. Fascinating corals and thousands of colorful fish lied in wait just below the surface…and that was just the snorkeling…

On a beautiful day, our boat “set sail” out on the open sea. Next stop, Napantao Dive sanctuary on Panaon Island – just across Sogod Bay from Peter’s Dive Resort.

Napantao Dive Sanctuary

We anchored the boat about 10 meters from a rugged, coconut tree lined beach. After the divemaster pointed me to the best corals, I put my life vest, mask and snorkel on and swam out.

Full disclosure: I joined a group of Peace Corps Volunteers who were all diving, but I just snorkeled on this trip.

Snorkeling over Surreal Coral Landscapes

Just off the beach where we docked, I found the coral garden above while snorkeling in about 2-3 meters of water. Pretty cool!  They kind of remind me of flowers. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this type of corals? I have had no luck in my research so far…

I have snorkeled all over the Philippines, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many fish. They were small, but neon blue…and shimmering beautifully in the sunlight above. I also took a photo of a unique brain coral tucked away in a coral “cubby hole”. Never seen anything like it.

I also stumbled upon a massive group of Clownfish. Must have been 30 + in one location! I’ve seen a lot of clownfish in the Philippines, but never more than 3 or 4 in one place. I wonder if this was a breeding site, or what?

Feeling the after affects of my strenuous rifr around Leyte, after about 40 minutes in the water I was tired, cold, and hungry. Luckily, back on the beach,  the team was preparing lunch with fresh caught fish grilling over a fire. The problem was that the wood was moist, and not so easy to burn.

Here’s comes good ol’ Filipino ingenuity to save the day….a dive instructor borrowed one of my fins to fan the flames!

Totally worked.

There was much more to the meal than just fish…we had a full spread with rice, veggies, and even chicken, I think. We definitely didn’t go hungry, I’ll tell you that much. This was a pretty good intro to to snorkeling and diving in southern Leyte, but the next day I was super excited to join a boat trip to Limasawa island, to the south.

Limasawa Island Dive Site

The weather on the first day was a bit cloudy, which put a damper on my photography – both above and below the water. The Limasawa trip was much better, though. Beautiful, sunny day out on the water!

I noticed in southern Leyte the local fishermen wear conical hats, similar to the ones worn in Vietnam. I know they do a good job keeping the sun of your head, but I didn’t see them worn anywhere else in the country, so it makes me wonder if there’s a story behind them.

These fishermen were pretty curious about me taking pictures. At one point they started waiving their paddle in the air to get my attention for a shot! Haha.

Limasawa Island (which means “5 Wives” in Filipino) is supposedly the site of the very first Catholic mass in the Philippines, undertaken by father Pedro de Valderrama, sailing with the fleet of the explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

Anyhow, the island itself is just stunning. We weren’t able to get off the boat and climb up to the marker cross on the hill (I read about it), but the turquoise sea and white sand beaches dotting the island were just beautiful.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Coral Reef + Fish @ Limasawa Snorkeling Site

This was one of the more colorful and fascinating coral formations I came across. If you’re wondering, I took all these photos with my underwater camera, the Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE

(More photos)

I wish I knew more about the fish and coral species, so I could share the names with you. If you know, please leave a comment! I know I saw some nice table corals  + other hard corals…as well as some beautiful soft corals, and even a Banded Sea Krait (snake)!

They are highly venomous, but also highly harmless…haha. They pretty much ignore you. If you were unlucky enough to step on one you could *possibly* get bit. Even then, apparently they don’t always release their venom. Beautiful creatures, in any case.

These last 2 photos are my favorites from this snorkeling trip. Above is a male clownfish protecting his nest in a beautifully sunlit anemone.

Below…I have no idea what this leopard-patterned fish is called. I’m hoping somebody can tell me. It’s the first one I’ve ever seen…so striking! I think it’s some kind of a bottom feeder. * I just found out that this could be a Leopard Blenny…or some other type of blenny perhaps? I wonder if any of you have any ideas?

How To Get To Southern Leyte

You can take flights from Cebu or Manila to the smaller airports of Tacloban or Ormoc (that one’s further away). If you’re a bit flexible with schedule, you might find a great deal on a promo flight from Cebu Pacific Air. There are also fast ferries departing from Cebu (about a 3 hour trip) + a 45 minute bus transfer to the Resort.

If you’re adventurous, you could rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s transport in Tacloban and drive yourself!

Big thanks to Shelani and the Peter’s Dive Resort team! As a lot of dive resorts tend to be,  it’s pretty simple…but a good value with top notch food & service. Plus, the snorkeling and diving was fantastic. Definitely recommended.

Be sure to check out my other Leyte posts, too…

My Massive Motorbike Trip Around Leyte Province

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

A Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour – Leyte, Philippines

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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The post Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos – Leyte, Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

It was a long ride on the motorbike. I had come all the way from Bangon Falls in northern Samar, and being the start of the rainy season, it took longer than expected. Samar is huge, too. I had severely underestimated its size.

When I finally entered the municipality of Marabut, I could hardly believe my eyes. I was greeted by fascinating limestone cliffs and lush tropical trees along the coast. It felt every bit like the exotic landscapes of northern Palawan…only without all the development and crowds. I pulled into the resort just before the sun started going down.

 The staff showed me to my room, and I passed out. I was exhausted. After a good night’s rest, I awoke to some much needed morning sunshine. The resort was beautiful. I loved the rustic, cabana huts along the beach.

 Above are some of the aforementioned limestone cliffs, jutting out from the sea between the cabanas. Such beautiful scenery!

The sea and the beach definitely have a different feel than El Nido, though. The water is less turquoise, and it’s not really a white sand beach. To me it feels more like an exotic tropical lagoon. As a landscape photographer (and adventurer), I absolutely loved this lush, rugged-looking coastline.

On the way back to my room I took some photos of the swimming pool. It’s an infinity pool right up against the sea, so you have a pretty incredible view.

The pool was kept very clean, and I would later enjoy a San Miguel Pilsen here as the sun set.

Photos of my Room

 Conveniently, the rooms overlook the water, and also face the sunset.

Overall, my room was nice…you can tell that the property is kept up well. Wifi can be challenging when you get a bit off the beaten path like this, but I was able to use my Globe Tattoo (pocket wifi) on the balcony of my room.

Everything was quite clean and in perfect working order. Aircon was cool. I particularly liked the view of the pool and island landscapes from my balcony.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner in the Restaurant

My meals were definitely a highlight…first of all, the view while you eat could not be better!

Second of all, I was quite surprised by the freshness of the ingredients, especially considering the remote location. Decent vegetables can be hard to come by on the Philippine islands, so hats off to Caluwayan for this!

Third, they have somehow managed to keep the meal prices very reasonable, especially for this quality. I was definitely impressed. Every single meal I had seemed well thought-out and prepared. I was super happy to have a real pancake breakfast – made me feel right at home!

My compliments to the chef. Keep in mind you can also sit at “Bistro Bar” for drinks with a sea view, or check out the occasional music, dancing, and cultural performances @ the Clubhouse.

Overall Review

While the building exterior may be showing a few signs of wear, the interiors, pool, and restaurant grounds have been kept very well. I found the staff to be extremely warm and helpful. The resort somehow walks a line between charming, rustic, and upscale. In fact, it does this quite well.

For this level of service and accommodation, I think it’s well worth the price. Many other resorts of this caliber would come with a much higher price tag, and perhaps a level of pretentiousness that I don’t really care for. For me, Caluwayan is everything a rustic island getaway should be, and I do hope to come back and visit again someday.

TIP: I believe there may be a free boat tour included in the room rate, so ask about it! On a nice day, I imagine it could be beautiful to explore those rock formations out in the water:) You can also visit the resort just to swim (for a fee) or eat at the restaurant.

How To Get To Caluwayan Beach Resort

The resort is located in the barangay (neighborhood) of Caluwayan, in Marabut, Samar. It can be reached via a 45 minute van ride (or direct boat) from the city of Tacloban. Flights to Tacloban from Cebu or Manila can be quite affordable if you check out some of the Cebu Pacific promos.

You also have the option of renting your own car or motorbike…I can most confidently recommend Haven’s in Tacloban for this.

Booking a Room

You can browse more information about Caluwayan Palm Island Resort on their website HERE

Enjoy this beautiful place, and please tell the friendly staff I said hello!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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By Nathan Allen

Open For Business – & Better Than Ever

I know it’s been over 3 years…but I guess I didn’t expect this much progress. The Philippines is a country close to my heart, and it has many strengths. However, if I’m being honest, progress isn’t really one of them. Like the U.S., there is so much political infighting. Progress moves at a snail’s pace…if things are even moving forward at all.

However, Tacloban looked great. It was bustling with shops and businesses, and the quality of goods and services went far beyond my expectations. It’s not a large city, but somehow it feels more sophisticated like one.

I had a motorbike very generously provided by Haven’s Tourist Transport near the airport. Rhoel, the owner, was a great guy. He gave me a quick tour of the area before I took the bike out myself.

I stopped by a few places downtown. The first was beautiful Hotel Alejandro, which dates back to prewar times. There is an impressive exhibit with hundreds of historical photos on the walls. After that, I checked out Sto Niño Church, which is a vibrant white color now that it has been restored post-typhoon.

(More Tacloban street photos)

Next was the Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, a rest home built for former President Marcos’ wife Imelda. Apparently her bathroom was larger than most of the citizens’ homes, and she actually ended up staying in the place only once.

I was able to do some street photography downtown, where I captured the hustle and bustle of the jeepneys, trikes, and commuters. Last, I visited the Anibong Memorial, or Yolanda Shrine. Many cargo ships washed ashore during the storm, but people began visiting and taking photos of this one in particular. Knowing this, the government decided to turn it into a monument – to memorialize the victims of the super typhoon.

The MacArthur Landing Site

Leyte is famous with WWII history buffs. That’s because just south of Tacloban, you can find the site of General Douglas MacArthur’s famous return to the Philippines. The American general had been forced to flee from the Japanese previously, but he kept his promise – and these statues memorialize his unit’s return.

It was quite surreal for me, because I ended up here on the 4th a July, our Independence Day in the U.S. It’s a time of celebration with friends and family, which I was desperately missing, having been on the other side of the world for over a year. Somehow, visiting this monument on this day brought me home.

I’ve always wanted to come here. It’s actually a National Park, and it’s located in the town of Palo, about 10 kms south of Tacloban City.

Tacloban Restaurants

This is what particularly impressed me about Tacloban. The business owners seem to be so motivated, and the service + quality standards are a cut above much of the rest of the country. I guess I was impressed by the food in Leyte and Samar in general. Are the ingredients better in this region, or do people just have tastes that fall more in line with mine? 

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina

Rewind back to March, 2013. I’m wandering the streets of Dumaguete (southern Philippines), with a hunger in my belly. I find a nice looking chicken restaurant, and try some Chicken Inasal.

Now fast forward to present day. I never imagined I would receive an invite to dine with the owner of the Tacloban branch, 3 years later. Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina serves family-style Filipino food in a comfortable garden-style environment.

(Photos of Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina)

(Assortment of Filipino foods)

The owner, Apple Anido Alagon was kind to prepare a nice selection of dishes and desserts for me to sample. Loved the Pineapple Mango Ginger Slush…all shakes and slushes are made with real fruit.  Also pictured is the dessert turon (fried banana) with langka (jackfruit) and ice cream.

Next is the house specialty. It looks like Bacolod-style Chicken Inasal, but with a pork BBQ stick included. It’s called Jo’s Chicken Inato Combo. Last, a plate of Zamboanga-style Spicy Shrimp.

Yes, there’s also unli (unlimited) rice.

Another one of Apple’s claims to fame is her Salted Egg Potato Chips. Apparently they have proven quite popular with the locals, even some being taken back home as pasalubong, or souvenir gifts. If it’s not obvious, Jo’s is well suited for Asian / Filipino taste buds.

Apple’s family has been in the Leyte region for generations, as is evident by the 90 year-old fountain on display in the garden. It was built by her great grandparents. She does quite a bit of community outreach as well, and is just a bright and cheery person in general. Stop by and check the place out!

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina: 241 P. Burgos St. +63 53 832 2042

Canto Fresco Pizza (Italian Influenced)

Pizza is one of my guilty pleasures, and the best way to cure my homesickness when I’m out on the road. However, it’s not always easy to find decent pizza in the Philippines. Well, Canto Fresco goes well beyond decent pizza, in fact it’s quite gourmet. I was particularly interested in the Mozzarella Bites I saw on the menu…

Oh my, they really hit the spot. It’s so nice to nice to have legit pizza with authentic ingredients like this. I can’t remember name of the one I ordered, but I’ve never tasted anything like it. Very festive! Haha. Honestly, I enjoyed it, but the herb flavor they used could have been toned down a tiny bit. It was unique, but a bit overpowering.

(Photos – Canto Fresco)

The carafe of mixed fruit and vegetable juices was delicious! Very refreshing. I was hoping to find a menu online so I could specify all items, but no luck. Anyhow, the ingredients are fresh, pizza is homemade (and hand-tossed), and the indoor / outdoor seating atmosphere is rustic and charming. Very much recommended!

Canto Fresco: 279 Burgos St. +63 53 523 9085

 (Continued below, but I recommend Booking.com if you need a good hotel in Tacloban)

Highside Bar & Restaurant

How perfect is it to visit a motorcycle-themed restaurant during my motorbike trip around Leyte? Highside was born from a passion for riding, but also from the tragedy of typhoon Haiyan. I sat with a few of the owners, Jo Jo and Mal, and listened to their story.

Mal has quite a harrowing tale of loss and survival himself. After the storm, the old friends would gather to have drinks and perhaps try to cheer each other up. They only had each other, as their wives and remaining family members had been relocated to safer areas. Like thousands of other Taclobanons, they had lost so much. Their city was devastated. What to do now?

Well, you know the expression…when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. In their case, they rebuilt. Not only that, but they channeled their love of motorcycling into a restaurant business, and even repurposed the remnants of vehicles destroyed in the storm. These pieces were used to decorate the bar, along with some of their own complete motorcycles, which were left inoperable.

The guys told me that before, people were more timid to invest their money in new businesses, or to spend it around town having a good time. However, the storm taught them that you never know what will happen tomorrow, so you might as well enjoy today.

(Click photos for more info about Highside)

I’ll never forget Jo Jo telling me “Money could do nothing for us. During the storm, Taclobanons were all struggling together. ..regardless of their income or status. That storm leveled the playing field”. A powerful reminder of this sits right on the wall. It’s the hood and trunk of a fancy BMW, which completely washed away in the storm. Oil barrels are now creative lounge seating, Hummer tires serve as giant beer coasters.

Speaking of beer, this is the best place to make it happen. The food is excellent, too. While not a single dish let me down, I especially loved the spicy jalapeño “lumpia”, called “Dynamite”. It’s jalapeño, cheese, chili, and ground beef – wrapped up lumpia style, and served with a tangy sauce.

I have to give it to these guys, they have done a great job making the most of this truly unfortunate situation. They felt like brothers to me, and I hope to visit them in their popular hangout again someday.

Highside Bar & Restaurant Gomez St @ Paterno +63 917 504 9452

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

HQ Food Park

While checking out the food stalls on Justice Romualdez Street, I met a guy who recommended a newly opened place south of town. It sounded familiar, and I realized I had passed it on my motorbike on the way to the MacArthur Landing site.

I came for an early dinner during the week (hence the smaller crowd). I imagine it gets pretty lively during the weekends. HQ is the first of its kind in Tacloban – a large food / gastro park, complete with drinks, darts,  and live music.

I love the graffiti mural of General MacArthur out front…due to its proximity to the landing site, that was a nice touch.

General MacArthur Graffiti & Grilled Pork Belly @ HQ

I found some super cheap and delicious liempo (pork belly) here…nice to have a kamayan dinner! That means you eat only with your hands. I loved that they serve the rice wrapped in coconut leaves…I think this is called puso in Cebu. Anyhow, HQ Food Park is open pretty late, and worth checking out!

HQ Food Park – Real St, Fatima Village

Cafe Lucia – Definitely Worth a Mention

This charming little cafe sits across from the Tacloban Astrodome. It serves delicious + affordable coffee and snacks. Really, I was impressed! Wish there were more places like it in the Philippines, and that I had more time to explore other menu options:)

Tacloban Hotels

(Agoda)

GV Hotel is a super cheap option right downtown. A good value, but you get what you pay for.

Ironwood Hotel is a classy place (more money, but still a great value). It has a very good reputation, with plenty of rave reviews.

(Booking.com)

If you prefer to use booking.com, check out more Tacloban City hotels here

How To Get There

Tacloban can be reached via boat or plane…but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila and Cebu. Again, if you need transportation when you arrive at the airport, check out Haven’s Car & Motorbike Rental.

Thanks for the Memories, Tacloban

This city is now high on my list of favorites in the Philippines. The people, the culture, and the food left a lasting impression on me. Big, big thanks to all who made this trip possible: Canto Fresco team, Mal, Jo Jo, Apple, Krizette and Rhoel…keep on making Tacloban proud.

I took this photo of the sunset at Tacloban Port. One of my favorites from this trip, and a great way to wrap up this piece.

I Shall  Return…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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The post A Tour of Tacloban City: Once Defined by Tragedy – Now, Ambition appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

“Leaf Peeping” on The Drive Into The Park

You don’t even have to get out of the car for this dazzling display! Still, you might want to.

I hiked down the small canyon to find a small creek that was literally covered in brilliant reds, greens & yellows. Also came across a deer with a fawn! No good picture, sadly.

Merced River Scenes (Rapids Near The Junction)

The eye popping yellows of the Bigleaf Maple trees are on full display along the riverbank here.

I climbed some rocks and boulders to take close up pictures. I’ve been living in the tropics for the last few years, so this cool change of pace is much appreciated!

Autumn Waterfall (Long Exposure)

Over the course of 3 days in this area, there was hardly ever a breeze. This makes it great for still long exposure shots along the river. Anytime after 1pm is good, though lighting is even better after 3.

Calm Merced River Landscapes (Yosemite Valley)

This is a beautiful area to park the car and take a quick afternoon hike along the riverbank. As the sun gets lower and lower, the golden light filters through the yellow maple trees – casting serene reflections on the natural pools.

You’ll need to pull over on the left side of the road soon after leaving El Capitan Meadow. If you reach iconic “Valley View”, you’ve gone too far.

Pohono Bridge Area

Sometimes you’ll find this iconic location empty, and you get it all to yourself. However, as soon as somebody sees you parked there, they will follow in your footsteps.

Better enjoy that solitude while you can!

Hiking Near Pohono Bridge

There is a scenic trail that takes you right along the river. Super easy hike, and plenty of great photo opportunities with many mossy rocks and leaves on the ground. Don’t miss it!

El Capitan Meadow

The stately trees along the road have turned a dark reddish brown, and they tower over the grazing deer below. Here I tried to capture the scale of Yosemite Valley, it’s truly breathtaking…

(Continued below, but I do hope you’ll follow along with me)

When (& Where) to Find The Best Yosemite Fall Colors

The 3rd or 4th week of October really is the best time to visit. Not only can you find stunning autumn scenes all around you, but there’s also a healthy LACK of tourists (& mosquitoes)!

The only thing missing during this time of the year is the strong flow of valley waterfalls. Well, they say you can’t have everything.

List of locations:

• Crane Creek – A few miles after Crane Flat on Highway 120 (coming INTO the park). The road passes right through some beautiful fall colors.
• Merced River @ Junction (Big Oak Flat Rd & El Portal Rd) – Again, you can see the bright yellows from the Bigleaf Maple Trees directly from the road. Some river rock hopping may be required to get some nice long exposure or waterfall shots. I have seen multiple bears in this area, so keep an eye out! (Don’t worry if you see one, just consider yourself lucky)
• Pohono Bridge – This is quite the scenic spot for photos! The bridge is located right where El Portal Road splits to start the Yosemite Valley Loop. If you want to take long exposure photos, I recommend waiting until late afternoon for best lighting. At least 4pm.
• Swinging Bridge – Even though I didn’t post any photos from here, you can take some nice reflection shots in the still water of the Merced river. You just need to “follow your eye” and hike along the river a bit to find the perfect location.
• El Capitan Meadow – You won’t find the most striking colors here. However, the large trees, families of deer, and breathtaking valley backdrop make a visit well worth it. Late afternoon lighting is most dramatic, and chances of deer sightings are better then, too.
• Tioga Pass Aspens – I did not make it up to the Yosemite high country this autumn, but I hear there are some nice aspen trees along the drive. Note, due to the higher elevation, these yellow colors tend to peak weeks earlier than down in Yosemite Valley. I suspect you would want to visit Tioga Pass around the first week of October for best fall colors.

Yosemite Valley (& Nearby) Hotels

Weather was perfect when I was there, about 70 degrees (f) during the day, though down to 44 at night. You can try your luck with a walk in campsite, though they tend to fill up pretty quickly.

Those looking for a bit more comfort can check out hotel options with Booking.com HERE, or Agoda HERE.

In closing, I hope you enjoyed my Yosemite Fall Colors series. Stay tuned for more Yosemite landscapes…hint…WINTER’S COMING!

(By the way, contact me if you’d like a framed print for the California / Yosemite lovers in your life…)

Cheers,

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share.

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By Nathan Allen

This is Marzio, an Italian who married a Filipina from Romblon. Together they operate JD&G Italian Restaurant in Romblon Town. Here, Marzio is making his way into the water so we can snorkel and explore the fascinating underwater world of Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary.

It took us a while to swim out to the corals, but we were handsomely rewarding once we did. Check out these intricate formations in about 2 meters of water…

This sanctuary was declared as a nesting site for endangered Hawksbill sea turtles, but we were not fortunate to see any. I hear that sightings are becoming rare.

Let’s hope that this is because they are nesting somewhere else, and not because they have been hunted or have died off. Anyhow, I quite enjoyed photographing the marine life around the sanctuary.

Below you’ll see…wait…is that a sea turtle? The funny thing is that I did not notice it until afterward when I was looking through my photos. I think it’s just an optical illusion, but it certainly does look like a turtle, right?

Anyhow, in this picture you’ll notice a very unique feature about this coral system – it has space underneath, kind of like a cave! It almost seems like the corals are floating just above the sea floor. I’ve really never seen anything quite like it.

Here are more detailed corals and underwater landscapes. Below I spotted a lone clownfish, guarding his young above its home in an anemone.

Perhaps along with Triggerfish, I call Clownfish the “Pitbulls of the sea”. They don’t care how big you are, they will swim right up to you and try to scare you away.

This one even bit my mask a few times. Good thing he’s only 25cm long, instead of 1 meter!

By the way, I took all these underwater photos with my Olympus TG-4. You can find the new model (in Asia) on Lazada HERE.

Perhaps due to overfishing or other environmental factors, there’s not a large number of fish here. However, I did see a pretty big school of the species above. I think they might be Butterfly fish, but I wonder if anybody has an idea? They seemed to be curious about me.

Snorkeling Tips

Sunscreen: If you’re going to wear sunscreen, please apply it at least 15 minutes before going in the sea. It’s best if you can apply it in a cool place, so that you don’t sweat it off right away. The chemical oxybenzone is found in many brands of sunscreen, and it can damage coral reefs. You can try “Safe Block”, which can be found in the Philippines. Also, some sunscreens made for kids seems to be OK. I use Banana Boat Kids SPF 50.

Life Vest: The best corals are in 2+ meters of water, so you need to be a strong swimmer, or wear  a life vest. I travel with an inflatable life vest – it helps me stay still at the top of the water for long periods while I photograph the corals.

WHO TO CONTACT:

It is advisable to bring your own gear for snorkeling and swimming here. However, there is a chance that Rose @ Reggae Vibes (see below) may have something for you to borrow. She can also provide you with more information about not only the sanctuary, but also Romblon island in general.

Reggae Vibes De Isla Romblon

Right next to Agpanabat Turtle Sanctuary, you’ll find this native-style / hippy homestay & Restaurant. Full disclosure: I did not stay here, but it looks really eclectic & cool! I did meet Rose, the owner. She was very kind, and seems to be involved with some good environmental advocacies. She also offers meals that are quite good.

She may have a snorkel and mask you can use for the sanctuary, but in remote places like this, it’s always best to be prepared with your own, just in case. Contact her with any questions HERE

(Reggae Vibes De Isla Romblon photos)

(Continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

How To Get There

Check my general Romblon Island post for more info on how to get to this region of the Philippines. Once on the island of Romblon, you just need to find transportation to barangay (neighborhood) Agpanabat, on the southern tip of the island. It’s about 18kms from town (along the coast).

I’m really not sure if a trike will bring you all the way here, though I think anything is possible for the right price I would guess a trike ride should be 450-600 pesos, perhaps.

You can also rent a motorbike directly from Marzio at his restaurant, JD&G Italian Food in Romblon Town proper.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

 Related Links

 Romblon Island by Motorbike – A Road Trip in the Heart of the Philippines

My Olympus TG-4 underwater camera review

Stunning Bonbon Beach, Romblon Island, Philippines

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  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Touring Leyte’s WWII history has always been on my bucket list. While visiting some friends in Singapore, they asked what my next trip might be. I told them it could be Leyte, but I had no real plans for it. Well, the power of suggestion is strong…and I do believe that “The universe conspires to help the dreamer”.

The next day I was hit with the urge to check flights. Boom. Promo flights, both to the Philippines, and also to Tacloban from Cebu. As we say back in California:

It’s on like Donkey Kong.

Before I knew it, I had reached out to my readers and lined up a pretty incredible trip, including a super nice motorbike (courtesy of  Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban). If you’re wondering, Leyte is a huge island province in the southern Philippines – one of the largest, I believe.

Time For the Open Road…On My Way To Kananga

I was on a mission to get to Palompon, the jump off point to beautiful Kalanggaman island. I zipped through the towns of Palo, Tunga, and quite a colorful fiesta in Carigara. Normally I would stop and enjoy the festivities, but I had an island tour lined up, so I had to push on.  I started winding up the beautiful mountain roads outside town, and noticed the air cooling a bit.

Soon, I headed over the pass and made my way down into a plain of lush, green rice fields.

These are the rice paddies along the highway in Kananga. Knowing that I was making good time, I decided to get off the bike and take some landscape pictures. As you can see my motorbike was quite customized, including a nice windshield (although I’m so tall…my head popped over the top! Haha.)

Kananga Parish Church

There is a similar looking church in Palo, but I was in a hurry when I rode passed it (plus the sky was cloudy there). I’m quite picky about the skies and colors in my photos. Anyhow, I was thrilled to see this beautiful alternative on my way through Kananga.

(There was a actually a 6.5 magnitude earthquake that happened as I was riding the motorbike out of Tacloban. I didn’t even realize. Sadly, a building collapsed in Kananga. One person died, but fortunately, all the others were rescued.)

Palompon Town, and San Juan Beach

I arrived in the (surprisingly) bustling town of Palompon just before sunset. I asked a local where a good place to photograph was, and they pointed me to San Juan Beach. By the time I found it, the light was really fading. Still had enough time to chat with friendly beachgoers and snap some photos, though.

I always love being on the beach at this time in the Philippines. You can find kids playing in the water while their fishermen fathers bring in the boats. Yes, island smiles abound when things finally cool off each day.

I said goodby to the surfers and skimboarders, and made my way back to Asayas Pension Plaza, where I ended up staying the night.

Funny how my life works, this place was recommended to me, and when I walked in the front door, I noticed old cameras and photography themed decor all over the room! The owner is Mr. Juanito D. Asaya, a renowned photographer who even snapped photos of former President Marcos water skiing back in the 70s. He even had an old Ricoh SLR on the shelf – the same brand I use today.

 (Continued below, but I do hope you’ll follow along with me)

Coastal Fishing Village of Ipil (Palompon)

The next morning I set out to explore Palompon town a bit. I became fascinated by this “floating” native village on stilts in the water. I asked some local kids how to go there, but I think they were too shy to respond. However, as I was walking away a boy crossing the street told me he would take me there.

Turns out he actually lived there, so he knew it well!

His name was Zar, and really was a bright kid. I was so grateful for his impromptu tour, though I was a bit worried that my excess weight might crack the bamboo walkways between houses! he looked worried, too. Haha…I’m sure he never saw somebody my size trying to navigate these elevated paths.

As for the local residents, they could practically walk these precarious planks and pathways with their eyes closed. It’s just an everyday part of life.

Anyhow, it was a fascinating place to document, and I appreciated his help very much. I hope somehow he might read this someday.

The next morning I embarked on my incredible overnight camping trip to Kalanggaman Island, but you can find the link for that story at the end of this post:)

The Road To Southern Leyte

The long trip had wiggled loose a small bolt on my tailpipe, and it began to rattle loudly as I rode. Luckily I noticed a huge Yamaha dealer as I passed through Ormoc City, and they replaced it at no cost. Very nice! I was in a hurry to make it all the way to Padre Burgos in the far south, so I didn’t have time to see more of Ormoc. As I left town, the road really opened up, and traffic started moving FAST.

Before I knew it, I had passed the beautiful coastline of Inopacan (which I vowed to come back and visit someday), and I arrived in the busy town of Maasin. I know this means “very salty” in Filipino, but I’m not sure if it means the same thing here. I also learned that Maasin is the birthplace of current president, Rodrigo Duterte. I always assumed he was born in Davao!

Sunburnt and exhausted, I had a very late lunch in Maasin and then continued to the Macrohon area, where I took this photo of a tree lined street. At least, I think it was the Macrohon area….in any case, it was an enchanting section of highway.

People in Leyte so far had been incredible warm and friendly, but for some reason, around this small section of road, I got some pretty odd looks from the locals. I couldn’t help but wonder if they had a particularly bad experience with a foreigner in the past here. In any case, soon enough, I finally made it to Padre Burgos. The good vibes resumed. The link to my experience @ Peter’s Dive Resort can be found at the end of this post…

After 2 amazing days of snorkeling / diving with new friends, I got back on the bike and rode up the coast to Sogod, where I snapped these photos from a bridge over the Hipgasan river (I think?). Again, I was sunburnt and famished (riding for countless hours in the tropical sun really takes a toll on you). I stopped for lunch at a friendly eatery near the Sogod Public Market.

Then I traveled to a remote part of St. Bernard, where there was a crowd of people gathered. Noticing a beautiful mountain landscape above their village, I pulled the bike over to take a picture.

I assumed the crowd was waiting along the road for a bus, but actually there was a massive neighborhood brawl. It sounded really serious, with a lot of screaming and commotion, but the guys next to me were just laughing. They looked at me and said “Don’t worry, they’re just drunk.”

Like an idiot, I had assumed I could make it all the way from Padre Burgos up to Tacloban in one day. This was a pipe dream…while beautiful, the road was far more windy and slow going than I anticipated. I pushed as hard as I could in the fading light, but was ready to eat dinner and pass out by the time I reached Hinundayan.

 (If you’re curious about Leyte hotels, you can check them out below)

I forgot to mention that this whole trip was pitch black once the sun went down, because the earthquake knocked out power all over Leyte. Riding at night in the Philippines is stressful and dangerous (road hazards).  A local pointed me to Julie’s Lodge, where I found a very warm and welcoming Julie + caretaker.

Her daughters and sons are working all over the world, such a fascinating story! Very kind people, and definitely an affordable place to stop along the way.

An American Peace Corps volunteer at the dive resort had told me about a fish sanctuary further up the road…I told him I didn’t have time to visit it, as I was planning to go all the way to Tacloban that day. Well, here I was with some time…after being forced to break the trip up.

When Mrs. Julie told me I should stop by there on the way too, I considered it a sign. I readied my snorkel and mask, and made my way up the rustic dirt road through the village.

Snorkeling @ Ambao / Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

Wow, I guess this was pretty meant to be! There’s not a lot of coral right off the dock where I snorkeled, but there are SO MANY fish. The caretaker was feeding them with bread that I had purchased from him, so I guess that explains the feeding frenzy. Haha.

It’s surreal being in the water with all these fish.  Similar to experiences I had at Juag Lagoon in Sorsogon, I suppose. If you’re wondering, I took these with my Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE.

Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

You’re basically just snorkeling along the edge of a cement wall, but there is a tiny coral growth there I found to photograph. It may be man made, but it’s worth it to see all these beautiful fish. Calagitan Fish Sanctuary is located in Ingan, Hinundayan, and has a 10 or 20 peso entry fee (I can’t remember, but it was cheap. You can pay 10 pesos for bread to feed them as well.)

The guys there were super nice, we shared fresh-caught octopus and rice for lunch, and I gave them a bit of extra money before continuing north. If you go, don’t forget to bring your own mask and snorkel.

Silago / Abuyog Boundary Creek

As I left the coast and started heading up into the mountains, the landscape began to change. When I came across a picturesque bridge with a small waterfall, I had to stop the bike and relax for a while. I really fell in love with this cool, creek canyon.

Just a rocky, babbling brook meandering through a lush jungle of ferns. I could have stayed there all day.

I came down from the mountains and felt the HEAT of the valley. There were some beautiful rice fields in the villages around Abuyog. These look they have been planted fairly recently, but I’m no expert. People here also seemed a bit wary of me, but Leyte Regional Prison is located way out here, so maybe they’re just wary of strangers in case they’re escapees. Do I look like one? Haha.

After this, the road opened up again, and I practically flew all the way back to Tacloban.

C’est fini.

Leyte Hotels

You can browse hotels with review on Agoda HERE

If you prefer Booking.com, you can click HERE

How To Get To Leyte

You can find super cheap Cebu Pacific promo flights to Tacloban or Ormoc City (I paid about $15 each!), but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila or Cebu. If you fly to Tacloban, you can pick up a motorbike or car near the airport and tour the area yourself. As a photographer, this is the only option for me. I’ll never forget this trip.

Again, big thanks to Rhoel @ Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban. My trip went off without a hitch because I had a solid, reliable bike. Rhoel’s an awesome guy, too. What an incredible experience Leyte was – overall, one of my favorite regions in the Philippines now. I love the history, I love the people, I love the food, and I love the countryside.

That’s a lot of love.

Thanks for taking such good care of me, Leyte.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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Related Links

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

My Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving With Peter’s Dive Resort, Southern Leyte

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