Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Tour Departs By Boat From Palompon Town

Due to the nature of my trip (weather…possible motorbike breakdowns…etc), unfortunately I couldn’t inform the tour company exactly when I would be there. I was impressed, because even at the last minute, they were able to throw an overnight camping trip together for me. What a dream come true!

I met my guide, Mrs. Warblitz at the Palompon port early the next morning. It was a bit cloudy, so I hoped the weather would clear for nice pictures.

It was only about a 45 minute boat trip, and before I knew it, I was already exploring the tiny island! I came across the rocky beach pictured above, and also a small island chapel...as well as a tree house on the far end. I heard that it’s private property, unfortunately.

I took a few photos and made some new friends…there were some tourist groups from the Philippines, and quite a large one from China. Soon, the clouds began to part, and I was thrilled to see the sun shine down on our little island paradise…

A Picture-Perfect White Sandbar

The tide was starting to come in by the time the sun came out…so the sandbar was slowly submerged by the sea. As you can see here, there is a native-style lifeguard tower, and the lifeguard is constantly kept busy chasing after tourists who try to cross the sandbar at high tide (you’re only allowed to cross when the sandbar is exposed).

There is a small mound of sand at the end of the sandbar…it becomes its own little island at high tide, too. It’s incredibly beautiful.

Blessed by powdery white sand and the shade of plenty of coconut trees, Kalanggaman island truly is a gem in the pacific. “Langgam” means “bird” in the local dialect, and the island gets that name from its shape, when viewed from above.

I climbed up in the nipa hut lifeguard tower for a better view of the sandbar.

The lifeguards were friendly, and I interviewed them a bit as they kept watch on the beach. Below is Nick, who came to Palompon because he has family here. With all the discipline of a military man, I had no doubt that Nick and the guys would keep the island safe throughout the night.

Some tourists recognized me on the beach, and requested a photo. Thanks for sending me the picture, Mrs. Suzette!

Overnight Camping on the Island

Here I am in my own little “bahay kubo”, or native hut. Made from bamboo and nipa, these are iconic in the Philippines. I just relaxed and got some reading done in my hammock. Not a bad life!

As you can see below, the tour company took good care of me. My trip was so last minute that they were not able to include an overnight tour guide. For me this was actually ideal…I love being on my own to take photos and explore. They introduced me to the island guards and the caretaker, and left me with all the supplies I could ever need…

I had a tent, a hammock, rain gear, coffee, tea, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of Filipino foods to last many meals. I even had nachos and beer…and there was enough food to share with new friends, which is the Filipino way. The team set up a beautiful campsite before departing the island. The boat would return to pick me up in the morning.

Being left on my own beautiful tropical island…this really is the kind of adventure I’ve always dreamed of. Guess what?  It gets better…

Snorkeling Off The Beach

A local told me where I might find some corals near the beach. You’ll have to ask for specifics once you’re there. In the fading afternoon light, I managed to get some underwater photography done. Here is a small school of colorful fish above the corals.

I took the these photos with my Olympus TG-5, The Amazon link is HERE. 

There were some beautiful flower-type coral gardens, with both hard and soft corals.

I also spotted a puffer fish, a large lionfish, and a beautiful giant clam. Not bad for an island which isn’t even known for its snorkeling! Something I’ll never forget is one of the young guards who wanted to go snorkeling with me, to make sure I was safe out there.

It was actually his first time using a snorkel & mask to see underwater! He was totally blown away, and I loved watching him experience it for the first time.

TIPS: Always wear a life vest, and do not swim or snorkel near the actual sandbar. The lifeguards told me the current is incredibly strong there. Also, please apply “reef safe” sunblock if you use it, as the chemical “oxybenzone” can kill or damage the coral reefs. I think Banana Boat for kids may be OK.

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Sunset on the Sandbar

By sunset, the tide had gone back down, and it was safe for us to walk along the sandbar and take photos. I can imagine the sunsets get even better than this on less cloudy days, too. Just magical.

The local guys and I listened to reggae music (I brought a tiny speaker) as we enjoyed the prepared food. Around 9pm they retired to the other end of the island, and I had the whole sandbar and coconut grove to myself. Perfect weather to sleep outside…so peaceful. I’ll never forget it.

How To Get To Kalanggaman

The most convenient way might be to take a cheap promo flight to Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, then join Leyte Gulf Travel and Tours. They provide vans for the 2-3 hour trip, and of course the boat and all your supplies.

Where to Stay

Overnight camping was pretty epic, but you can also stay in Palompon Town. I stayed at Asayas Pension Plaza…it was OK, but they don’t have online reservations.  Mrs. Warblitz or Mrs Ludette @ Leyte Gulf can make some good hotel recommendations for you if you need.

Again, many thanks to the team for providing this incredible experience! I’m not usually a “tours” kind of guy, but after experiencing everything they have to offer, I can see why it’s worth the extra money.  You can just enjoy your vacation…without the stress of planning so many things. They were super nice, and most importantly – professional.

For me, Kalanggaman Island is just incredible – not too developed or crowded…with a nice white-sand beach and plenty of shady coconut trees. Add to that friendly locals, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for paradise.

Really, this island is pure eye candy.

Enjoy, and be sure to check out my other Leyte posts!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Leyte, Philippines

My motorbike tour of Leyte Province

Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos

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Have something to add? Feel free to leave a comment…

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  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

A Pristine Beach, Just Minutes From Romblon Town

Romblon Island, the middle of 3 islands in Romblon province, fast became one of my favorites anywhere in the Philippines. It’s off the beaten tourist path…I rented a motorbike and circled the entire island, taking photographs along the way. Conveniently, Bonbon Beach is just a 10 minute drive south from Romblon Town proper. You’ll follow the scenic coastline (pictured below).

With the help of some top secret info I received from the locals, I was able to locate the trail head and park my motorbike. A brief but beautiful trek through the jungle led me to an opening.

By the way, you can browse hotels in Romblon HERE

I found a few children playing here, on what turned out to be called “Margie’s Beach”. There are 3 beaches connected to each other: Tiamban Beach (to the left), Margie’s Beach (pictured below), and Bonbon Beach, which is to the right.

Below are the small rocks you must climb over to access Bonbon Beach and sandbar. Romblon province is known as “the marble capital of the Philippines”, and if you look closely at these rocks, you’ll see some patches of white marble embedded there. Anyhow, I was excited to continue to Bonbon, because as you can see, it’s quite beautiful.

I climbed up and sat under the shade of a coconut tree. What a view.

I suppose Bonbon Beach was named after this incredible “bonbon” shaped island at the other end of the sandbar. Unfortunately it was high tide, so the sandbar is not so visible in the picture below. I was able to get some natural framing with these palm tree silhouettes, though.

A word of warning: There are very sharp thorns in the brush along the beach. They come from the bush / tree below…the one on the left side of the photo. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this species? Anyhow, these thorns are LONG, and they can pierce bare feet or thin flip flops if you’re not careful.  Just be mindful.

I swam and snorkeled here (with my own mask). The pool pictured below is perfect for swimming, but there isn’t a whole lot to see in terms of corals or fish. The sandbar is located to the right of here, and on the other side of the sandbar is a strong current. Swimming there (especially alone) was not recommended to me.

Anyhow, there is a beautiful view of “bonbon island”, and you’ll notice a few starfish here and there, which makes for a nice photo. I set my hammock up in the little bit of shade I could find and took a nap. I would return to this beach 3 more times before I left Romblon Island, and I only ran into a total of 4 other people. I had the beach to myself for the vast majority of the time.

I headed back to the trail at Margie’s Beach, and found this friendly group of local kids playing in the water. I got back on my motorbike and continued around the island…but made sure to return for sunset.

Sunset on the Sandbar

The sun will go down behind the mountains, but you can still catch a spectacular sunset here. Pictured below are the silhouettes of a couple walking on the sandbar, while a fisherman in a small boat paddles nearby.

(Continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

I was so happy to catch a nice sunset like this on Bonbon beach. The tall coconut trees provided a perfect silhouette of paradise. These photos will keep me dreaming of Romblon for years to come…

If you’re wondering, I captured these images with my little Ricoh GR II camera. That link is for Lazada (Asia), but you can find it on Amazon HERE.

How To Get To Bonbon Beach

As mentioned before, the beach is just a few minutes south of Romblon Town proper. I actually walked there, but keep in mind that it is 3 or 4kms, and quite hot. I walked because I love to take photographs along the way. 

Apparently the reason it’s hard to find is because the land between the beach and the road is privately owned, and they have fenced off the property. It would appear that the beach is private, too…but from what I hear, nobody is allowed to own the actual beaches in the Philippines.

So basically you’ll be trespassing if you cross the private land, but if you access Tiamban or Margie’s Beach and walk to Bonbon Beach, it is perfectly OK. At least, that’s the story I heard:)

If you’re in town and you rent a motorbike (I recommend asking JD&G Italian Restaurant), just pay attention to all the no trespassing signs…you’ll start seeing them on the right side as the road gets more shady. Just before you go up a small hill, the signs end and you can find the tiny jungle trail on the right. You may see a trike or motorbike parked there.

This short trail will take you to Margie’s Beach, where you can easily access Bonbon Beach as well. Please pack out all your trash, and enjoy this incredible place!

Looking for lodging? Stone Creek House is my recommendation for an awesome place to stay in Romblon Town. More general info on Romblon Island can be found in the related links below…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

 Related Links

Romblon Island Photos: A Road Trip in the Heart of the Philippines

Snorkeling @ Agpanabat Turtle Sanctuary in Romblon, Romblon

My Detailed Comparison of the Sony RX100 vs the Ricoh GR II

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I looked up photos of the Philippines on the Internet many months before I ever came.  I came across a travel blog that featured Camiguin island, and I knew I had to see it for myself!  I lived in Cebu City at the time I took my trip to Camiguin.  I was lucky enough to score a 500 peso ($13 USD) promo ticket each way through Cebu Pacific airlines. 

I woke up at 4AM to catch a taxi to the airport, but in the spirit of this adventure I decided to take a motorcycle taxi (habal habal) instead. It was a long trip over to Mactan island as the sun came up.

I was nervous about taking this small plane, but the flight was as smooth as can be! The views of the islands from above were not too shabby, I must say.

This plane route is brand new…the island was only accessible by boat previously. I was amazed how quickly we had to drop down from the sky to make the landing, and wondered how many times these pilots have even actually done it. Only 3 planes a week, for 2 months since the route began. No problems at all!  Excellent flying, I must say.

 I wasted no time renting a motorbike for my 4 days on the island. I don’t have much of a budget for my long-term travel, so I find that renting my own motorbike instead of paying for transportation saves me a lot of money.  It also makes the whole experience much more exhilarating and adventurous for me.  It appeals to my sense of freedom – and I thrive on that!

However, if you are concerned for your safety, I definitely recommend getting a guide and/or paying for transportation.  You can feel good knowing that the money is likely going to the driver’s family, and then back into the local economy of Camiguin. 

KATIBAWASAN FALLS

The map they gave me at the airport was a bit misleading, but eventually I did make it to beautifulKatibawasan falls.  (On the way I took a wrong turn and ended up at a beautiful resort where I stopped and cooled off by the pool.  I love “happy accidents” like that!)

I believe these falls are the most accessible, and by far the most popular in Camiguin.  Sometimes in the Philippines I can’t believe what I’m seeing is real, and as I arrived, my first glimpse on the left was one of those times!  Can you believe this place?  This is definitely the kind of scene I always dreamed about. 

It’s 250ft high, and reminded me of Yosemite falls back home in California.  On the right you can get an idea of how tall the falls actually are, even though the top is still cut off in this photo!  Swimming here on a hot day is very refreshing, and hiking around the area you can also find orchids growing.  It’s truly a sight to see. 

OLD CHURCH RUINS AND SUNKEN CEMETERY

The next day I continued touring the island on my motorbike. Here are some ruins from an old Spanish church from the 1500s. I believe it was destroyed by an eruption in the 1700s. I’m kind of a history nerd…I love the fact that here I am very likely walking in the explorer Ferdinand Magellan’s footsteps.

Nearby is the “sunken cemetery”, which I believe sank into the sea during the same eruption. Apparently snorkeling over it is a really incredible experience, and unfortunately the ONLY thing I didn’t do while here. For some reason what I chose to do instead was take a 2km hike straight up the side of the volcano during the heat of the day (and with all my gear on me). Brilliant, especially when I stubbed (or sprained?) my toe on the way back down.  Ouch. 

People go CRAZY for the NBA here in the Philippines. Sometimes out in the provinces they can’t speak any English, but that doesn’t stop them from running up to me yelling “Kobe Bryant!!”  They have makeshift basketball hoops all over the villages, and even out in the jungles.  At 6ft 2 inches, I can’t count how many times they have joked about me joining their teams.  With these old knees??

This a nice clear view of “Hibok Hibok” volcano that I found on my motorbike trip. Near Catarman.  The island has both beautiful black (volcanic) AND white sand beaches.  Just after this was when a wasp decided to sting me in the neck while going 60kmh on my motorbike.  That was a surprise! 

ARDENT HOT SPRINGS

The next day I headed to Ardent hot springs to (ironically) cool off. It’s summertime already in the PI, and VERY hot. I usually don’t enjoy manmade stuff like this too much, but I must say that I love this place!  The staff was quite friendly and I met some locals that wanted their photo taken:)

TUASAN FALLS

Katibawasan falls might be the most popular on the island, but my favorite is Tuasan falls.  After Ardent hot springs I journeyed deep into the mountains to try and find this place, which turned out to be slightly challenging. Totally worth it once I made it, though! 

When I first arrived, I had the whole place to myself.  There’s really nothing like being in such a magical place, alone with your thoughts.  I have been fortunate to experience this at 4 different stunning waterfalls in the Philippines so far. 

I guess what I loved about Tuasan falls was the isolation and natural beauty.  It’s a bit of a trek to get there, and they hadn’t yet put any shops or tourist facilities nearby.  Isn’t it stunning?

Eventually a few locals did come by for a swim, and they were really nice, of course.  That’s something I have noticed about far-flung and beautiful natural places.  If you run across people out there (and I mean anywhere in the world), they are always very nice people!  I have never proven wrong with that theory, not even once. Eventually I got tired of watching other people swim, so I decided to give it a try.  Surprise!!  It’s freezing.  Well I shouldn’t have been surprised…but maybe the hot springs right before had spoiled me.  Haha. 

It was nearing sunset, so it wasn’t very hot outside anymore.  I only lasted a few minutes in the water, but I’m glad I made myself do it!   For various reasons, I think this might be my favorite waterfall in the Philippines…but I don’t want to build it up too much for you.

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SNORKELING AT THE GIANT CLAM SANCTUARY

It’s tricky to find this place on your own if you’re traveling solo. There didn’t seem to be a sign, but maybe that’s a good thing. If you have a map, just use other landmarks around there and stop and ask somebody when you feel you are close.

The road down the beach is rough, but beautiful. When I arrived, I was really struck by the place. By far the most beautiful beach/area I had been in Camiguin (White Island came later, but I still think it’s a tie).

Here is a typical “sari sari” (store) in the Philippines, at least outside of the big cities.

It’s kind of like a drive-through, but you just walk up to the window instead. I suspect it’s for economic reasons, but rural Filpinos usually buy supplies like shampoo and laundry soap in small single-use pouches that are draped over hanging wire (kind of like laundry hanging out to dry).

NEAR DEATH EXPERIENCE IN THE LAND OF THE GIANT CLAMS

I paid for admission and noticed how nice and helpful the people running everything were. Later I was led out into the water by my guide. I assumed if I wasn’t able to touch the bottom, there would be a boat to hold onto and rest, or at least a flotation device to keep me from drowning. I’m quite sure my entry fee provided a flotation device, but for some reason I wasn’t given one. I swim with no problems, but I am very lean, with hardly any body fat.  That means in deep water, I sink more easily. It’s much harder for me to stay afloat than people with even a little body fat (fat floats, muscle sinks).

My guide had some small flotation device with HIM, so after flopping around for a bit and getting tired, I informed him that I needed to use it. He looked at me with a bit of shock, and told me he would “be right back”. Then he proceeded to swim off WITH the flotation device, leaving me flopping around in the water. Haha…I was in disbelief. I didn’t want to put my feet down and risk damaging any clams/corals…though I couldn’t touch the bottom even if I wanted to.

Luckily I had enough energy to find a small mound of sand which enabled me to drop my foot and get my nose and mouth out of the water so I could catch my breath.  He came back with an extra device and I then I got back to enjoying the tour.  Whew!

As for the experience itself, I absolutely loved it.  The massive clams were beautiful and fascinating, and when we ventured out into to deep water (10 meters) it was quite awe-inspiring. I’ve never been snorkeling in water that deep. It really was exhilarating, and the giant corals and various sea creatures really amazed me.   Please note that this isn’t my photo.  I didn’t have an underwater camera, so I found this picture (on the right) HERE.

My guide was very nice and informative, and I’m sure now they are much more careful about providing guests with floatation devices, regardless of how well they can swim. I suggest paying extra for flippers, because they will help you move through the water faster and stay afloat if you choose to not take a flotation device with you.  I have swam my whole life, but never was certified to dive or learn any techniques to help me float.  This is a goal of mine for my next trip:)   Highly recommended, this place was spectacular. 

WHITE ISLAND

Every day I was here it rained at least some of the time, and Hibok Hibok volcano was always obscured by clouds, making it much less photogenic. The last day ALWAYS works out perfectly for me, though. It’s like magical clockwork.  I knew I needed a clear view to photograph “White Island”, and I got it!

It’s basically a small sand bar out in the water, and it is known as the “crown jewel” of Camiguin. I was hoping to split the cost of the boat journey with other tourists, but I waited around as long as I could, and nobody came. So I got my own private boat…but told the boatman I wanted to stay on the island late to take photos. He reluctantly agreed.

What an incredible place!  I walked out to the edge of the “island” and then continued very far into the sea, because the water was only about a foot deep.  Eventually another sand bar popped back up out of the water resulting in the picture below. 

The only two fisherman parted ways as the sun dropped lower and lower. In a few hours this “island” would be swallowed by the sea…I stayed here until well after dark, it was just my boatman Gerald and I. I used the Tanduay that I brought to barter for some Bisaya language lessons…we became fast friends (as is the case with a lot of my taxi and trike drivers and I), and I hope to see him on my next trip.

As the locals say, I’m sure I will “come again to Camiguin”.  I loved the warmth of the people and sense of adventure on this island.  What a great introduction to Mindanao!  There is so much more to see.  Next time, next time. 

Sunriser Pension House

If you’re a backpacker and looking for something on a real budget, this place had the cheapest room I ever found in the Philippines.  I loved the older couple who run it, they were truly unforgettable!  I just had a simple fan room, and for 150 pesos ($3.80USD) a night, I really can’t complain!  I was impressed with the place, especially considering the price.  There isn’t too much information about it online, so I hope I’m remembering the name correctly.  Once in the main town of Mambajao, just ask the locals and they should know where it is.  It was very close to the public market. 

Action Geckos Dive & Adventure Resort

This is a nice midrange place, and it’s a bit more secluded if you’re looking for a real getaway. The food is not as cheap as some places on the island, but it is a good value, considering how nice the place is. You can organize a boat trip from here to White Island as well.

I took this photo while talking to the manager at the bar. They have different rooms and rates depending on what you’re looking for. The manager talked to me about another hotel his family owns in Sipalay I believe…ask him about it, I’m pretty sure each room has it’s own music them (jazz, metal, rock n’ roll…etc)

If you’re looking to book a room here and find more info, I recommend going through Agoda HERE

Paras Beach Resort

If you’re on a proper vacation and are looking to spend a bit more money, you can check Paras out.  It’s very centrally located, and also very close to the dock with boat trips to White Island.  Amenities include a full restaurant, TVs in the rooms, billiard tables, swimming pool, and ping pong.  You can book through Agoda HERE.

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