Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

I was on Siargao island, one of the Philippines’ epic surf spots. A tall, weathered traveler sat across from me at a roadside eatery. As is so much easier when you’re traveling solo, I struck up a conversation with him.

I learned he was from Montreal…and had come to the Philippines for an ancient meditation course called Vipassana. I had heard about this “silent retreat” before, and I plied him for more information. It was intriguing.

I learned that volunteers run Vipassana Philippines.  It’s donation based, and therefor doesn’t cost anything to attend. This model helps keep the experience consistent and pure. Aside from this, he was very hesitant to share details about the experience. It was too intimate and personal, and besides, he pointed out that each person’s path will be unique.

After researching it a bit more, I fired off an email to the woman organizing the Vipassana Manila chapter. I was in luck – there were still a few openings.

Can I Even Handle Vipassana?

However, was I SURE I was ready to commit to this? She was asking the same question. People call this a “Silent Retreat”, but “retreat” might not be the best word for it. This ain’t no “Eat Pray Love”…it’s hardcore work. Buddha actually started the Vipassana technique thousands of years ago.

It is completely secular and non religious… practiced by people of all faiths. With Vipassana, students become more in tune with their bodies. One of the ultimate goals is to eliminate suffering.

Healing Old Wounds

Well, I wouldn’t exactly say I was suffering. However, I had recently made the news in the Philippines. This was because a small province declared me “persona non grata” in their region.

Strange but true – Yes, this actually happened

However, I received a LOT of support from Filipinos who knew they weren’t getting the full story. They were right. For me, the hardest part was keeping the truth inside until I left the country. I didn’t feel safe. I did this for about a year while I continued promoting tourism.

Well it took a toll on me. I worried that if I didn’t do something about it, I might end up resenting a country and culture that I loved. Perhaps a Vipassana Philippines course would do the trick.

Aside from all that, as a writer and explorer, I was just curious about the experience in general. I love pushing my mind and body to the limits….I always have.

So, in the sweltering summer, our group met in Manila and boarded a bus for Cavite, about 45 minutes south. We were dropped off on the side of the road, then loaded into “tricycles” – which are a bit like “tuk tuks” in Thailand.

Enter The Vipassana Philippines “Compound”

While Quezon is considered the “Manila area”, this location was actually quite rural. The best word to describe the place we arrived is a “compound”. When they swung the giant gate open and let us in, I half expected it to slam shut and see armed, masked men jump out of the bushes to capture us.

I wasn’t ready to make another appearance in the media – this time as a kidnap for ransom victim.

OK, also…the “jungle” part – it’s a bit of a stretch, These are the tropics, but this location’s not exactly a jungle. The Vipassana Philippines property actually appeared a bit sparse, open and dry. With the exception of the large Indian mango trees that provided shade, it actually reminded me of the California countryside.

Our group joined another in a simple “meeting hall”…basically a pole frame with giant tarps stretched over it. We were encouraged to meet and communicate as much as possible before “noble silence” commenced.

These Vipassana students had come from all over the world…the U.S., Canada, Russia, Spain, Taiwan, China, and Africa. I would say about 25% were Filipinos.

Signing a Waiver – The Shape of Things To Come

We signed waivers and surrendered our phones. This was getting real. They screen students pretty carefully, and it almost seemed like they were trying to convince us not to take the course. This is because the Vipassana experience can be quite intense.

This kind of silent retreat can shock the system more than people realize. Most people have never gone days without Internet, or just being able to read, write, or speak. People with a history of mental disorders might find the deafening silence to be too much.

As even I would find out, being alone with your thoughts (and with nothing to do) can become torture eventually. There is no escape.

Once you commit to a Vipassana course (10 days is already the short version!), they try very hard to keep you from giving up on it. They firmly believe that in order to truly reap the benefits, one must complete all the meditation steps in the 11 day period.

Waking Up Before Sunrise

I’m not exactly a morning person, and my mental state declines rapidly when I get hungry. Perhaps I have low blood sugar? Anyway, I learned we would be waking up at 4AM each morning. All meals at the silent retreat are vegetarian, but there is no dinner served. Ever. They’re not just trying to torture you, it’s actually a strategic part of the program.

We were to sleep in a large trailer, on simple cots separated by thin curtains. There is no breeze through the room, and only some of the cots have fans overhead. I chose mine a bit late, and was lucky to find a cot with a fan that reached me at least some of the time.

Men and women are kept apart…except during the actual course instruction, when they share opposite sides of the room.

Let The Silent Meditation Begin

Our daily Vipassana meditation would take place in what seemed like an oversized metal shipping container. It had one small wall fan on each end.

There was no going back now. I was determined to see this through. After our last dinner for 10 days, we headed to the meditation hall for the course intro and overview. After this, “noble silence” began. We could not communicate with each other in any way…be it verbally, with hand gestures, or any kind of eye contact.

I thought it would be too hot to sleep that first night, but somehow I was OK. At 4AM, a large bell (gong?) sounded. We were to report to the meditation hall right away. Waiting to eat breakfast was a challenge for me, especially considering that we were not fed dinner the previous night. We were required to meditate a few hours each morning – only then could we eat breakfast.

(By the way, if you’re traveling to the Philippines, I recommend these hotel options HERE)

As far as I know, all Vipassana courses are led by video on a projector. An older Indian man named “Goenka” leads you through the meditations. When he was alive, he taught these courses in person. At this point, everything was so new to me that it was easy to stay focused. I wasn’t even particularly hungry. I was amazed.

What is Vipassana Meditation Like?

I won’t go into much detail about the actual meditation itself. You can experience Vipassana Philippines on your own if you’d like.

However, I will just say that it’s not the “spiritual” type you may have in mind. You are probably not going to enter some kind of hypnotic trance and have an out of body experience or something. (He does some light chanting in an ancient language, but it is not religious or spiritual in nature. Only to help you stay focused.)

Vipassana is basically just a series of sensory exercises that help you become aware of your body, and how it reacts to the world around you.

Ideally, it keeps you focused on the present moment, so your mind doesn’t start to wander and worry about the future or the past. Goenka says our mind is like an untrained beast, and Vipassana is a tool we can use to tame it.

Did I Just Join a Cult?

So let’s recap. Here I am in a tropical compound, in what seems like the middle of nowhere. I’m following every word and instruction…chanting “in tongues” with a room full of sweaty fanatics (for all I know). All eyes fixated on our “leader” – a mysterious man in a grainy old video.

Haha yes, to those who don’t know better, it really would seem like I had just joined a cult…and there I was, “drinking the kool aid” along with everybody else.

(continued below, but I’d be honored if you follow along with me)

Eating Vegetarian Meals – In Complete Silence

I think it was 6AM when the breakfast bell rang. We lined up for food, then sat across from each other while we ate in complete silence. Eye contact was a no no…and it was all quite awkward.  We used our original seats and tables for the entire course.

The food…it was quite good! I didn’t miss eating meat at all. I had been eating heavy, oily food in Manila prior to this, so these light, healthy dishes were much appreciated. My compliments to the Vipassana Philippines chefs! My very first silent retreat was off to a good start, I thought.

Fighting The Urge To Flee

We kept busy “doing nothing”…sitting down meditating on cushions literally 10 hours each day. During our “free time”, we could walk around the property. However, most of it was off limits, with a rope tied to mark the boundary.

When we were able to speak on arrival, I heard stories of students walking too far out, and then finding the temptation to escape was just too great. They ran for it, and abandoned the course. I think that’s why they had it roped off.

You can start to go a bit mad out there…you realize just how preoccupied and busy we keep ourselves in our daily lives. When you strip away everything you use to distract yourself from things you don’t want to think about, it gets pretty real.

You have no screens of any kind, no electronics, no games, and no books. No snacks allowed. Rosaries and other religious items, either.

You shouldn’t move too quickly…exercise is out of the question. Not even a brisk walk. All focus should be on the Vipassana techniques.

Zombies in the Yard

I mention “zombies” because we ended up staring vacantly into space, trying to avoid looking at each other. It was awkward because we were always so close together. 

I remember looking out the small window in our room, seeing all these bodies scattered in the yard. They just wandered back and forth aimlessly, staring at the ground or the sky. Looked like a total cliche zombie movie scene.

My Unexpected Challenge

The first 2 or 3 days of Vipassana were challenging, but not for reasons you might think. My problem was that I had figured out these meditation techniques on my own, many years prior to this experience. Not exactly, but I had learned how to become more in tune with my body, and those experiences made learning these techniques much, much easier.

Less than halfway through the first day, I was quite comfortable…and ready to move on to the next step. The problem was that most people had not learned these techniques previously, and the course needed to progress slowly for their sake. Totally understandable.

However, I was already going full steam ahead. I had to repeat the same, basic exercise over…and over…and over….

After 2 or 3 days I thought for sure we would be ready for the next big step. As it turned out, we weren’t. Don’t get me wrong…we did move on, but to me it was basically just a another baby step. The real struggle for me was realizing then that this whole course would progress at a snail’s pace, and I would spend 7 more days here like this.

My Real Test of Patience

Knowing what needed to be done (and how to do it) became a form of torture for me. I couldn’t help but wonder if this was the true test of patience I was here for.

I would open my eyes and peek at all the fortunate souls meditating around me. How I envied them…they had a clearly defined goal – something to work towards. Well I guess I did, too….to make it to the end of this glacial course without going completely bonkers.

Over the next few days, we tried our best to adjust to life at Vipassana Philippines. Not having wifi or my phone wasn’t as difficult as I thought! Still, I’m not going to lie….I’m a writer, and I had a TON of time to sit and think out there. I had so many ideas for future goals and projects; the hardest part was not being able to simply write them down!

I considered finding a hidden spot and writing notes in the dirt…but that would technically be cheating. I began to work on mental repetition exercises, hoping I could burn these thoughts into my aging mind – and do something about them once I was back out in the real world.

There is No Escape…From Yourself

Each day dragged on…and I’ll never forget the plastic red chair. On our free time, most of us sat on plastic stools at the meal tables.  However, there was one plastic red chair with a comfortable backrest.

That chair became our coveted prize…the lucky ones were able to claim it early and sit under the shade of the mango tree. Even luckier if you were able to watch the pair of colorful Kingfisher birds that called those trees home.

Yes, any change in routine becomes a godsend during a silent retreat. For example, even a bowel movement becomes a welcomed and exciting event!

Students All In It Together

If there was one thing that helped me get through this experience, it was knowing that I wasn’t alone. You could see the struggle in everybody’s face. There is no way around it – these Vipassana courses are hard work…especially in this location. The heat and humidity are just brutal. If you’re one to believe in the benefits of “sweating out the toxins”, you’re in luck.

You’ll sweat like a beast, so drink a lot of water to stay hydrated.

Vipassana Philippines is like hot yoga…minus the yoga…and you do it all day long.

Honestly, seeing how miserable everybody looked began to take a toll on me. I began to wonder if I should really be here…if I really belonged. Many of these people seemed damaged…jaded. Broken. Was I one of them?

A Crude Symphony

As if subconsciously rebelling against our inability to make a sound, our tent cabin was a symphony of snoring, belching, and nuclear – grade flatulence each night.

As the days went on, I began to grow annoyed with people around me, and I’m sure others were feeling the same way. Familiar faces started to disappear…never to reemerge. I wondered how they convinced the staff to free them from the course…or did something sinister happen to them?? I kid, they’re fine.

The Light at the End of the Mediation Tunnel

By the last day at Vipassana Philippines, I think many of us were at the end of our rope. You have no idea how painful it is to simply sit in one position for hours and hours. What a test of patience and determination!

As if to taunt us, the last series of instruction and chanting seemed to carry on forever. However, when “noble silence” finally ended, something miraculous happened.

We started talking to each other.

We shared stories about our struggles during course days, and laughed about the “bodily function orchestra” which put on free shows each night.

I imagined that when the final Vipassana bell rang, we would all avoid each other and get out of there as soon as possible. Instead, we ended up sticking around…and even bonding. The people who annoyed me the most, the ones who always seemed to be in the way, or looked the most miserable…they were the ones who laughed the hardest with me.

It was also amusing to realize they were thinking the same things about me. They weren’t so unhappy, damaged, or broken after all.

The smiles returned.

We felt accomplished…we had seen battle together. After becoming fast friends, we exchanged contact information.

The Truth About Vipassana Philippines

Yes, I struggled getting through this silent retreat – and I joke about how cult like it seems from the outside. No, it’s not a cult, and I’m quite glad I saw it through to the end.

I probably wouldn’t do the Vipassana Philippines course again, but I do believe these techniques are useful. Most people will likely see the benefits, assuming they have the determination and willpower to push through it.

How It Helps: Benefits of Vipassana Meditation

According to students and teachers, Vipassana meditation can help ease suffering from the following conditions:

• Depression
• Anxiety
• Despair
• Guilt
• Addiction
• Pain

“Unplugging” With Vipassana

Vipassana meditation is also good for those who want to “unplug” from technology – and experience the world (and themselves) in an entirely new way. You’ll hear many testimonials before and after the course, and there is a reason that many people keep returning year after year.

One other thing: I should mention that the Vipassana Philippines location seems to be temporary. Personally, pushing my mind and body to extremes was exactly what I hoped for, but I think most other Vipassana locations are more comfortable and established.

Hopefully Manila will get a permanent location soon. It all depends on donations by former students and teachers.

Speaking of which, I’d like to thank the dedicated staff. Their cooking and hospitality was wonderful. Also, (I’m sorry if this disappoints you) the image at the top of the page isn’t from the silent retreat. The property looks a bit like that, though. A tiny bit. Haha.

What an experience…one I’ll never forget.

Website: Vipassana Philippines – Silent Retreat in Quezon (Just outside Manila)

For the main international Website: Dhamma Vipassana

(Again, if you’re traveling to the Philippines, I recommend these hotel options HERE)

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

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By Nathan Allen

It’s pretty clear that it’s not just her famous desserts, but also Karen herself that keeps drawing customers back. Her joy is infectious, and her bubbly personality can be spotted throughout the restaurant. I knew my readers would absolutely love this place, so I had to share it.

Karen already had her successful dessert business, but as her children went off to college, she felt that she needed something to help her through the “empty nest” years. A devout Christian, she prayed for answers. Soon, she found a building in nice, quiet part of Kapitolyo – a building that, amazingly, looked just like the logo was already using. 

Next, she needed a new direction to go in. She came across a bible verse which inspired her to create some wholesome, healthy dinner options to compliment her desserts. “…and settle down; plant gardens…and eat what they produce”, the verse read.

…but the Desserts…

One bite of Karen’s desserts, and you will understand why she is so loved by sweet-toothed foodies! By far the highlight of my visit, my personal favorites were the sticky toffee pudding, frozen ube-cado brazo, and red velvet cake.

Not just a feast for the belly – Karen’s Kitchen is a feast for the eyes, as well! This is truly an Instagramer’s paradise. Note the small details like the vintage accessories and the tea cup chandeliers! The design and atmosphere of the place is thanks to a partnership with friend and decorator Joi Cutter (she is a lot of fun as well, and if you’re REALLY lucky, you’ll get to meet both of them!)

Healing Foods

Upon learning that her son was sick one day, Karen realized that her healthier options might help to heal him, and she began to dial in her dinner menu even more. I personally love the idea of offering wholesome, healthy food along with her famous, decadent desserts. As we all know, it is quite challenging to make healthy food that really tastes good, but for me, she really pulled it off with the Dalandan Chicken, pictured below. 

No matter what the dish, though, it is clear that they are all created with a healthy serving of love. In fact, hearts can be found decorating the plates of just about every dish! You could say she serves the most “hearty” meals in all of Manila….haha. Seriously, though, Karen’s passion and artistry shines through with every single offering. What a presentation!

The restaurant can be found on a quiet street directly behind behind Privato Hotel in Kapitolyo, Pasig. I heard some customers park in Capitol Commons and walk if there is no street parking.

Best for: Mouth-watering desserts, a memorable afternoon tea experience, wholesome and unique dinner options, people who need a place to cheer them up! That wraps up my review, see you at Karen’s!

Website: http://karenskitchen.com.ph/

Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/mykarenskitchen/

Karen’s Inspirational Blog: https://ButterflyInTheSpring.com/

My Kapitolyo Blog with Map can be found here

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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By Nathan Allen

Our technology-driven culture has given rise to the “flashpacker” movement – basically, it’s backpacking 2.0  Even though our packs are much lighter, today we travel with massive libraries of friends, books, movies and music…right there in our pockets, and anywhere in the world.

The modern traveler needs an updated approach to the hostel model. They need a safe place to recharge their batteries (figuratively and literally). They want to connect with each other, but perhaps more importantly, with their friends and family all over the world. 

One more thing. They have all the tools and resources to make the most of their money, and they expect it to go far…very far.  

Letting Their Customers Promote For Them

More than just a place to lay their heads after a long day of exploring, these travelers want a nice backdrop for their Instagram selfies.  Smart business owners understand that if they play their cards right and provide their customers with wifi, they will promote for them – and for free.

A creative example of this is a set of giant angel-wings painted onto a wall under a hostel’s logo. Guests will line up to stand in front of the wings, “putting them on” for a photo. Then they are posted to FB and IG, where they inspire all sorts of friend-envy.

Anyhow, speaking of inspiration, I was inspired to write this post after visiting the newly opened Z Hostel in Makati, Philippines.  It is perfect example of what I’m talking about. They have struck a nice balance between design, functionality, and affordability.

Due to their hip vibe and innovative user-experience, word-of-mouth has done a lot of the promoting for them! 

This is “Hosteling 2.0”

750 pesos ($18USD) might seem like a lot for a bed in a SE Asian dorm, but when you take a closer look, you’ll see why it’s such a great value (Makati is also notoriously expensive by SE Asian standards). Each room is well-lit and cooled with strong air-con. Each bed-bunk is semi-private, comfortable, and thoughtfully designed.

There are individual “charging stations” integrated right onto the wall, with private reading lamps as well. It seems we flashpackers never have enough outlets when we travel, and Z Hostel has addressed this issue in a big way.  They are literally all over the place!

I guess it’s “surprising” because many international tourists don’t realize just how sleek and cosmopolitan Manila has become.

I was very pleased to find a covered outlet next to the sink in the bathroom. Guys with electric shavers will love this, as will anybody who travels with a hair dryer.

When I think back on my hosteling experiences years ago, I think of cold, dirty showers in dimly-lit mosquito-infested bathrooms. This couldn’t be any further from the Z Hostel experience. The bathrooms are clean, bright, and equipped with relaxing hot-water showers.

Even the lockers in the rooms are strategically designed.  They automatically light when you open them, and come with outlets in each one – so you don’t have to worry about another traveler stealing your device while you leave it charging!  Well planned. 

The private rooms on the upper floors have the same functional design elements, and the views of the Makati skyline can’t be beat.

Cutting-Edge RFID Chip Bracelets For Payments

Z Hostel has generated quite a buzz by offering their guests RFID bracelets to make purchases at their cafe and roofdeck bar.  Personally, I love the idea of cashless transactions…I’ll never forget the first time I ordered  a tasty “Z-Brew” coffee and just touched my bracelet to the ipad screen to complete the transaction.  So cool!

You request a bracelet at the front desk and load a 150 peso minimum, which includes a 50 peso deposit to be returned when you give the bracelet back.  This is especially good for the backpackers who love to party (you know who you are), because they won’t have to worry about losing or keeping track of their cash during a hazy night of drinking on the roof deck.

Famous Roof Deck – Z Hostel Review

Speaking of which, the roofdeck is pretty epic.  The hostel hosts events and frequently features local artists, DJs, and musicians. As most hostels are, the upper rooms can be noisy during these weekend events.  Just something to keep in mind – the hostel conveniently offers earplugs upon request.

I never imagined a hostel could be the “place to be seen”…but Z has accomplished this. It’s not just for overnight guests, but perfect for those who want to mingle with rooftop drinks after a stressful work week as well.

Cafe With a Tastefully Done Menu

The upper rooms come with a thoughtfully prepared breakfast buffet…coffee included! As for other items on the menu, I recommend the burger and fries, as well as the pandesal and cheese. I also tried some traditional Filipino dishes that might pop up on the menu soon, and I can tell you that there is a lot to look forward to!

The Philippines: Much More Than Beaches and Waterfalls

Most international travelers have no idea that the Philippines has such a sleek and modern side to it.  They would be surprised to learn that the country is the “social media capital of the world“, too! Z Hostel embodies this social media savvy spirit.

Just so you know, the property is quite large, and can accommodate group and corporate bookings as well.

Raising the Bar For Philippine Tourism

Overall, I’m quite impressed with what Z Hostel has accomplished.  The prices are just right, and the service and contemporary decor is spot-on. It has a classy, upscale feel to it, but with more of a hip, artistic flair. This is definitely not just another corporate hotel chain.

It is located on a quiet side-street…just far enough from the red light district, which thankfully doesn’t have the same sleazy feel. I believe it’s appropriately named “Williamsburgos“, and I felt very safe there. 

If this is the new face of Philippine tourism, the future’s looking bright! I’d like to thank Agoda and Z Hostel for extending an invitation to experience it. I’d come back in a heartbeat!

You can search options, reviews, and find the best deal on a room HERE.

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By Nathan Allen

To be honest, I asked many, many people (locals and foreigners) what they like about Manila, and over and over, I was met with head-scratching and silence.  They all told me they would think about it and get back to me.  

I’m still waiting.

You see, Manila is a city that people love to hate.  Dan Brown mentioned it being the “Gates Of Hell” in one of his novels, but for many travelers coming to the Philippines, Manila is in fact the jumping-off point to many stunning beaches – and paradise must be earned…by surviving Manila.  If you have anything less than 2 weeks in the Philippines, I suggest booking your flight out to the islands for a few hours after you land in Manila.  That way you have a little room just in case there are delays, but also don’t even have to leave the airport – because here’s the thing: DON’T LEAVE THE AIRPORT.  

Wait…So You DO Have To Leave The Airport?  Don’t stress.

If you do happen to have an extended layover or job post in Manila, don’t worry.  I’ll help you make the most of it.  The city is not everybody’s favorite, but if you go about visiting at the right time (and in the right way), you might even find that you enjoy it!  Once you get past the gauntlet of traffic and smog, there is plenty of good shopping, dining, and even historical attractions – assuming you know where to look.

Today’s Manila – Times Have Changed

The city is far different than what many people imagine.  While it still struggles with a massive population and quite a bit of poverty, paradoxically, it is also a bustling modern metropolis with a booming economy.  Somebody once told me that the Philippines isn’t a poor country, it’s actually a rich country full of poor people. 

Shiny skyscrapers are being erected at an almost unimaginable rate.  Manila boasts (though Filipinos are generally too modest to use such words) world-class hotels, shopping, and dining.  There is even a very hip, thriving art scene that has developed over the past few years.  Some people are shocked to learn this…and a few still think Filipinos all live in slums or in the jungle.  WRONG. 

As I mentioned in a previous article, Manila might frustrate foreign travellers who are used to other large cities.  Things just move at a different pace here, and just because the city is modern does not mean that it is efficient.  It takes time to adjust to.

However, what makes Manila unique to me is the fact that in a city of 12 million plus, Filipinos in Manila have still managed to preserve a sense of community.  To an extent, they still say hi to their neighbors and look out for each other.  What other megacity can say the same?

I would also venture to guess that Manila has more smiles per square kilometer than any other large city in the world.

I recently realized that even I have a distant connection to “the Pearl Of The Orient”.  My great great uncle fought in the battle of Manila Bay during the Spanish-American war of 1898!

I know this guide to Manila barely scratches the surface, and that there is SO much more to see and explore.  If you have anything to add, please leave a comment!  One place I’d like to explore more next time is Quezon City, because I really loved it when I briefly visited. 

Yes, Manila can certainly test our patience, but I make it a point to try and find the beauty in every place I go.  Eventually, I even found it there.

I challenge you to experience Manila through my eyes.

  Do you accept the challenge?  Let’s get started.

When To Arrive – Traffic is a Serious Concern

First of all, do NOT land during 7am-9am or 3pm-7pm during the week.  Choose your flight to avoid traffic during these hours.  If it has been raining for a day or two before your flight, you may have to take a raft to your hotel (I’m joking, but the threat of flooding is real, and sometimes I seriously wish this was an option!).  I met a U.S. citizen who, after a 17 hour flight, arrived at 5pm during the rainy season.  He spent 3 hours trying to get a taxi, and then 6 hours riding in one – going only 5km to his hotel!  To be fair, there was also substantial construction going on at the time.

Visas / Money Exchange

Upon arrival at the airport (please don’t judge the country based on the airport…NAIA is notoriously bad), travellers from many countries are granted a visa-free stay for 21 days.  If you insist, it is possible to pay for a visa for up to 59 days.  This may take up to an hour or two to process, and should cost around 2,600 pesos (around $55 USD). 

I prefer to bring minimal cash with me, because with a U.S. card, I can use the BPI ATM right outside the baggage claim area.  I’ve never had a problem with these machines.  If you want to bring money to exchange, I believe there are 24 hour options there in the airport, thought they might be slightly more pricey than options outside.  Might be better to pay more for the airport service and know you aren’t being short-changed.    

Taxis

Taxi drivers in the Philippines are generally honest and will use the meters, but those around the airport have been known to inflate the price. Try to bargain and ask around as much as you can.  Also make sure you check the bills you hand the driver, because in low light, it is possible for foreigners to accidentally give a 1000 note instead of a 100.
 

Safety

To unseasoned travellers from the west, Manila may appear to be much more dangerous than it really is.  There are guards posted with very large guns in front of banks and government offices, but it’s just to intimidate any would-be criminals, and the guards are generally nice as can be.  Just be street smart (especially if you are heading to the shady red-light districts of Makati and Ermita) and you should be fine.   Better to leave any flashy jewellery in your safety deposit box – just in case.

Hotels and Accommodations

Speaking of the red-light districts, this is where most people choose to stay.  It’s not because they are all sex tourists, but because it also happens to be where many hotels, bars, and restaurants are.  At best, the taxi will cost only 250 pesos and take 20 minutes to get to either Ermita or Makati.  More likely it will be 300-400 pesos and take an hour, though.  Makati is probably safer and much less gritty than Ermita.  Here are my hotel choices:

Makati

MNL Boutique Hostel – This charming, colorful little hostel is tucked away behind A-Venue mall in Makati (tell the driver you want to go to the mall, then walk behind and look for the beautiful mural on the wall).  Reasonable rates on both private air-con and also dorm rooms.  It’s also a great place to meet fellow travellers from all over the world! 

By offering free serve-yourself coffee and a simple breakfast, they do a great job fostering a warm, social atmosphere.  The owners can be found popping in from time to time, and their genuine concern for their guests is quite refreshing.  MNL is also technically just outside of the noise and chaos of the red-light district, so that is a plus if you ask me as well.

You can book MNL Hostel HERE

Tune Hotel – I love the bright, clean, rooms and modern design here.  It is certainly one of the best values I have found while traveling as well.  They keep costs low by only charging you for the amenities you need (cable TV, Aircon…etc).  Customize your own stay!  Technically in the red light district, but tucked away on a side street, and I appreciate that.  You can find the local craft beer “Katipunan” in the attached bar here, so do try it!

You can book Tune Hotel HERE

Ermita / Malate

Tune Hotel Ermita – Another branch of Tune Hotel, very similar to the one in Makati.  I would prefer to stay in the Makati branch, but if you need to be in the Ermita area for some reason (immigration needs, for example), this is a great place.  Also closer to Luneta and Intramuros.

You can book Tune Hotel Ermita HERE

Malate Pensionne – If you’re looking for a slice of old Manila, this nice alternative is close by.  I loved the rich, old-world feel that the woodwork gives this hotel.  Very close to Remedios Circle as well, where you can find plenty of nice dining options.

You can book Malate Pensionne HERE

Intramuros (near Ermita)

White Knight Hotel – A very nice mid-range hotel right in the heart of historic Intramuros.  Tasteful and cozy, with good food and excellent service from the staff.  People love it, and I can see why.  The hotel is tucked away across the street from St. Agustin church inside a shady courtyard, and occasionally they play (subdued) live music.

You can book White Knight Hotel HERE

Ortigas

A bit further away is Ortigas, and I found that I really enjoyed it up there!  Far from the red light districts, it’s a nice area that’s probably more suited for business travellers.  Still a nice alternative for all travellers in my opinion, though.  There are plenty of good restaurants and a few shopping malls nearby.  

The Malayan Plaza Hotel – Sleek.  With a small kitchen that makes it suited for short or long stays, I felt very comfortable here.  I loved the modern design throughout the hotel.  The pool is elevated about half way up the building, and along with the roof deck, has some beautiful views of the Metro Manila skyline.  The staff is very warm and helpful, and they also have a quality breakfast buffet.   Solid Internet.  Better pricing for long term stays.  The hotel is very close to SM Megamall as well. 

You can book The Malayan Plaza HERE

If you prefer to use Booking.com, click below

The Richmonde – This hotel has homey suites that are also ideal for any length of stay.  My room had a small kitchen with a refrigerator.  The full-sized bathtub was very much appreciated after a long day out exploring.  There is also a nice gym, a beautiful indoor pool, and a generous breakfast buffet.  The lobby and common areas are quite luxurious here.  Lower rates for long term stays. 

You can book The Richmonde HERE

These are my personal recommendations through Agoda, but if you prefer Booking.com, you can use use this link to search for more options.

Where To Eat and Drink

Jollibee – The “McDonalds of the Philippines”, and if you don’t mind fast food, is worth a try.  See why it’s loved by millions of Filipinos all over the world!  Try Mang Inasal Chicken BBQ or Rufos in Makati if you want to move away from fast food a bit (while still remaining affordable).

Sentro – Upscale Filipino food at Greenbelt 3 mall.  I quite enjoyed it!
 
Northpark – A reasonably priced Chinese restaurant chain in Makati and Quezon City (I’m guessing there are other locations as well).  I’ve eaten here many times and recommend it. 

El Chupacabra – My absolute favorite place to eat! It’s tucked away in Makati.  Here you can get “Mexicali” street tacos and enchiladas.  It’s got a great patio, and is a fun place to meet friends for food and drinks.

Seattle’s Best Coffee – Starbucks is available, but if you want to try something different, this U.S. chain isn’t bad.  Surprisingly (because it’s a coffee shop), I found the best American-style pancakes here also!  I’m addicted.

Karen’s Kitchen – This quaint dessert and tea shop is an experience in and of itself. Karen is a charmer, and she makes a mean red velvet cake…as well as mouth watering sticky toffee pudding!

Cafe Andare Nightmarket / Foodtrucks – If you’re visiting on the weekend, there is a great night market in front of Glorietta mall and the Hard Rock Cafe.  Here you can find live music, plenty of great food options, and if she’s still there, a woman who sells American craft Ale and beer at a very good price!  It’s very hard to find in the Philippines, and if you do find it, it’s usually expensive.  I hope she is still there!

There is also a similar night market in Makati very close to MNL Hostel.  It’s next to A-Venue, and there are plenty of great food options there as well.

 
B-Side @ The Collective (Makati) – This is a great place to go for Sunday night Reggae.  Also a very creative art space with a diverse and welcoming crowd.
 
URBN @ The Fort – For those who would like to experience Manila’s dance clubs and thriving nightlife.  The Fort is also a high-end shopping destination, similar to Greenbelt.  It’s a bit further northeast, though.  
 
Chihuahua Mexican Grill – There is a location in greenbelt, but the one in Makati has salsa dancing on Saturday nights, and it’s a lot of fun.  Last I checked, they had a small selection of American craft beer as well!

Global Beer Exchange – All things in moderation, but speaking of craft beer, there is a place in Makati near Magallanes station called Global Beer Exchange.  First of all, definitely try the local San Miguel Pilsen first, because from a beer connoisseur’s perspective, it’s by far the best the country has to offer. 

The irony is that in many parts of the Philippines, Pilsen is considered the “low class” option behind San Miguel Light (beer snobs would refer to this as “piss water”) and super strong Red Horse (this is for getting the job done, taste is secondary). 

However, if you really want to experience some of the unique and hoppy American ale and beer, Global Beer Exchange is the place.  Of course, they have beer from many other countries as well, but I am particularly proud of the craft beer scene that has developed in the U.S. over the past 20 years.  It is just starting to take off overseas, but be prepared to pay a hefty price for it.  Anyhow, this place has a great atmosphere and friendly staff. 

*Update – The Filipino craft beer scene has EXPLODED in the 3 years since I wrote this article. Now there are breweries all over the country, and there are even plenty of “American style” Filipino ales. See below…

Joe’s Brew in Poblacion

“Fish Rider Pale Ale” is my absolute favorite from Joe’s brew, and Joe is an awesome guy. He can often be found drinking right in the bar with his customers, and he might even give you a tour of the upstairs brewery if you’re lucky!

Also check out Beerhouse in Kapitolyo. This place is a testament to just how far Filipino craft beer has come…that’s all they serve here, and from many, many breweries…including their own! It’s nice how supportive the craft beer scene seems to be be in the Philippines.

The Bar@1951 (Malate) – A friend brought me to this little bar/club one night, and I totally fell in love with it.  They have a funky, creative space with classic soul music performed live!  Truly a hidden gem if you ask me.

Rockeoke @ Bowler Restopub – It is claimed that karaoke was invented in the Philippines, not Japan.  These days it’s all about videoke, and to say that Filipinos love videoke is putting it mildly.  It’s is a practically a religion here.  Monday-night Rockeoke takes it to a new level by incorporating a full live band into the mix.  Find it in the ground floor of the Paseo Parkview Towers in Salcedo Village, Makati. Usually starts at 9pm and goes through 2-3 sets, depending on how many people attend.  It’s a blast!

Shopping

Let’s face it, Manila is basically just one giant shopping mall. 

I have never seen so many malls in my life, and navigating between them can be dizzying.  Each mall often has 3 separate numbered sections, which then connect to other malls with multiple numbered sections as well. 

They talk about how you can see the Great Wall of China from space, but sometimes I wonder if you can see the malls of Manila from space as well! 

If you’re a backpacker on a budget and are sleeping without air-con, do like so many locals do – spend a few hours cooling off at the mall!

From Makati, you can be boring and take a taxi to Ayala Center and the other malls, or you can be adventurous and take a jeepney – the “king of the Filipino road”!  Just ask the drivers or people on the street which one to hop in.  It’s a straight shot all the way down, so it’s hard to get lost.  If you decide to walk the 1.5km or so, you can check out beautiful Ayala triangle on the way.  It’s a nice park lined with plenty of shops and restaurants.

Greenbelt

The high end shopping and restaurants can be found at Greenbelt mall.  Note: As for the food, just because it’s expensive doesn’t mean it’s good.  I have found that when something is more expensive in the Philippines, it is rarely worth the extra cost.  I say do your research or stick to chains you are already familiar with (and know you like). 

Also take note of the giant chapel in the middle of Greenbelt mall!  It truly is a testament to how spirituality is woven into the fabric of daily life here. 

Landmark

Landmark Mall is just across the road from Greenbelt, which can only be accessed by an overhead walkway.  It is a much more affordable (and crowded) alternative to Greenbelt. 

Glorietta

Glorietta mall is connected to Landmark, and is somewhere in the middle (in terms of cost).

Greenhills

If you want to repair or find a great deal on electronics (or need to get an iPhone unlocked), head to Greenhills in San Juan (near Ortigas).  I actually enjoyed the Greenhills area quite a bit, and might consider staying near there on my next visit.

Cubao X (Expo)

Further north is Cubao X, which offers a hip assortment of everything from vinyl records to retro toys.  A great place for the local art scene and live music as well!

Divisoria

If you really are feeling adventurous, you can head to the chaotic bargain-heaven of Divisoria, a giant street market north of Intramuros.  There is also similar shopping about a kilometer away near Quiapo Church.  You can take the LRT1 and LRT2 trains to get up to this area, and that is an adventure in and of itself.  Try not to do this anywhere near rush hour, and as also goes for the markets, always be mindful of your pockets and bags just in case.  I’ve ridden many times and never had a problem, but I do pay attention – just in case.

Things To Do

Intramuros

My absolute favorite thing to see in Manila is Intramuros, a 600 year-old walled city that the Spanish built.  It is still rich with history, and home to some beautiful old cobblestone streets and churches. 

St. Agustin Church – A 440 year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site, where I eventually learned that the famous explorer Miguel Lopez de Legazpi’s tomb can be found.  If you’re looking directly at the alter from the back of the church, his tomb is in the room just to the left of the altar.  The church doesn’t look like much from the outside, but my jaw dropped when I walked in. 

St. Agustin Museum – Don’t forget to visit the incredible museum attached to the church!  I didn’t expect much, but was thoroughly surprised by how much there was to see and experience there.  You feel like you’re touring a medieval castle, and in a way, you are.  Well worth the entry fee.

Walking Tour with Carlos Celdran – (Sadly, I believe Carlos has passed away. I’m not sure if this tour is still available in a new form? Please do let me know in the comments if so.) I haven’t had the chance to take this tour yet, but the people have spoken.  From what I’ve gathered, it’s incredibly informative, and wildly entertaining.  Carlos does not hold back, so bring your thick-skin and sense of humor.  The tour is heavy on historical information about Intramuros and Manila, and light on actual walking, so don’t worry about any strenuous activity.  Not exactly cheap, but almost everybody agrees that this tour is worth it. 

Bamboo Bike Eco-Tour  – What an idea!  I haven’t taken this tour either, but again, I hear great things.  These unique bamboo bikes are crafted by the good folks at “Gawad Kalinga” which means to “give care” in Filipino, and is a poverty alleviation and nation-building movement.  This tour combines three things I love – biking, conservation, AND community empowerment!

Luneta (Rizal Park)

Nearby to Intramuros is Rizal Park, or Luneta.  Here you can visit the monument of the man many Filipinos consider to be the national hero – Dr. Jose Rizal.  After dark, the park cools off and the water fountains put on a colorful show.  You can ride a horse drawn carriage, or Kalesa here.  You may be able to ride one all the way to Intramuros as well, but I’m not positive about that.

Binondo

Binondo is also worth exploring.  It’s supposedly the oldest Chinatown in the world.  In fact, Binondo Church was founded in 1596 to serve the Chinese converts to Christianity.  Keep in mind that Intramuros, Luneta, Divisoria, and Binondo are all relatively close to each other, and could possibly all be explored in one long day.  It is wise to group things together by proximity, because as mentioned earlier, you can lose a LOT of time just getting from point A to point B.

Sunset on Roxas Blvd.

If you are staying in Ermita or Malate, don’t forget to wander over and take a stroll down  Roxas Blvd. during the famous Manila Bay sunset!  These shots were actually taken from Mandaluyong, though.  Mall of Asia is another good place to witness a nice Manila Bay sunset. 

Pinto Art Museum – Antipolo

I haven’t been yet, but people rave about the the Pinto Art Museum in Antipolo.  An impressive collection of Philippine art that even non-artsy people seem to be able to appreciate.  It’s a bit far, so probably only good for those who have an extended stay in Manila.  Antipolo is another place I want to explore, so the museum is a good excuse to check it out. 

U.P. Diliman

Finally, if you’re looking for a nice shady place to relax (and try some adventurous eating), explore the tree-lined University of the Philippines – Diliman campus, which is also known for it’s famous isaw (chicken intestines)!  Be sure to ride the unique “ikot” jeepney with the yellow roof, as these iconic vehicles have been around since the very early days of the campus.  “Toki” is,  of course, the reverse route:)  This visit is only advised if you have a long stay, as the campus is quite far.

Anything I missed?  What makes Manila unique, and what do you like about it?  Please comment and let me know!  Also don’t forget to “like” this page and ALSO the “I Dreamed Of This” FB page further below, so that you can follow along as I explore the beauty of the Philippines!

*Update – Kapitolyo, in Pasig, has really blown up with bars and restaurants lately. There are 2 huge food parks that I know of maybe more…you can check my Kapitolyo blog for more info!

– Nathan Allen

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