Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Tour Departs By Boat From Palompon Town

Due to the nature of my trip (weather…possible motorbike breakdowns…etc), unfortunately I couldn’t inform the tour company exactly when I would be there. I was impressed, because even at the last minute, they were able to throw an overnight camping trip together for me. What a dream come true!

I met my guide, Mrs. Warblitz at the Palompon port early the next morning. It was a bit cloudy, so I hoped the weather would clear for nice pictures.

It was only about a 45 minute boat trip, and before I knew it, I was already exploring the tiny island! I came across the rocky beach pictured above, and also a small island chapel...as well as a tree house on the far end. I heard that it’s private property, unfortunately.

I took a few photos and made some new friends…there were some tourist groups from the Philippines, and quite a large one from China. Soon, the clouds began to part, and I was thrilled to see the sun shine down on our little island paradise…

A Picture-Perfect White Sandbar

The tide was starting to come in by the time the sun came out…so the sandbar was slowly submerged by the sea. As you can see here, there is a native-style lifeguard tower, and the lifeguard is constantly kept busy chasing after tourists who try to cross the sandbar at high tide (you’re only allowed to cross when the sandbar is exposed).

There is a small mound of sand at the end of the sandbar…it becomes its own little island at high tide, too. It’s incredibly beautiful.

Blessed by powdery white sand and the shade of plenty of coconut trees, Kalanggaman island truly is a gem in the pacific. “Langgam” means “bird” in the local dialect, and the island gets that name from its shape, when viewed from above.

I climbed up in the nipa hut lifeguard tower for a better view of the sandbar.

The lifeguards were friendly, and I interviewed them a bit as they kept watch on the beach. Below is Nick, who came to Palompon because he has family here. With all the discipline of a military man, I had no doubt that Nick and the guys would keep the island safe throughout the night.

Some tourists recognized me on the beach, and requested a photo. Thanks for sending me the picture, Mrs. Suzette!

Overnight Camping on the Island

Here I am in my own little “bahay kubo”, or native hut. Made from bamboo and nipa, these are iconic in the Philippines. I just relaxed and got some reading done in my hammock. Not a bad life!

As you can see below, the tour company took good care of me. My trip was so last minute that they were not able to include an overnight tour guide. For me this was actually ideal…I love being on my own to take photos and explore. They introduced me to the island guards and the caretaker, and left me with all the supplies I could ever need…

I had a tent, a hammock, rain gear, coffee, tea, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of Filipino foods to last many meals. I even had nachos and beer…and there was enough food to share with new friends, which is the Filipino way. The team set up a beautiful campsite before departing the island. The boat would return to pick me up in the morning.

Being left on my own beautiful tropical island…this really is the kind of adventure I’ve always dreamed of. Guess what?  It gets better…

Snorkeling Off The Beach

A local told me where I might find some corals near the beach. You’ll have to ask for specifics once you’re there. In the fading afternoon light, I managed to get some underwater photography done. Here is a small school of colorful fish above the corals.

I took the these photos with my Olympus TG-5, The Amazon link is HERE. 

There were some beautiful flower-type coral gardens, with both hard and soft corals.

I also spotted a puffer fish, a large lionfish, and a beautiful giant clam. Not bad for an island which isn’t even known for its snorkeling! Something I’ll never forget is one of the young guards who wanted to go snorkeling with me, to make sure I was safe out there.

It was actually his first time using a snorkel & mask to see underwater! He was totally blown away, and I loved watching him experience it for the first time.

TIPS: Always wear a life vest, and do not swim or snorkel near the actual sandbar. The lifeguards told me the current is incredibly strong there. Also, please apply “reef safe” sunblock if you use it, as the chemical “oxybenzone” can kill or damage the coral reefs. I think Banana Boat for kids may be OK.

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Sunset on the Sandbar

By sunset, the tide had gone back down, and it was safe for us to walk along the sandbar and take photos. I can imagine the sunsets get even better than this on less cloudy days, too. Just magical.

The local guys and I listened to reggae music (I brought a tiny speaker) as we enjoyed the prepared food. Around 9pm they retired to the other end of the island, and I had the whole sandbar and coconut grove to myself. Perfect weather to sleep outside…so peaceful. I’ll never forget it.

How To Get To Kalanggaman

The most convenient way might be to take a cheap promo flight to Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, then join Leyte Gulf Travel and Tours. They provide vans for the 2-3 hour trip, and of course the boat and all your supplies.

Where to Stay

Overnight camping was pretty epic, but you can also stay in Palompon Town. I stayed at Asayas Pension Plaza…it was OK, but they don’t have online reservations.  Mrs. Warblitz or Mrs Ludette @ Leyte Gulf can make some good hotel recommendations for you if you need.

Again, many thanks to the team for providing this incredible experience! I’m not usually a “tours” kind of guy, but after experiencing everything they have to offer, I can see why it’s worth the extra money.  You can just enjoy your vacation…without the stress of planning so many things. They were super nice, and most importantly – professional.

For me, Kalanggaman Island is just incredible – not too developed or crowded…with a nice white-sand beach and plenty of shady coconut trees. Add to that friendly locals, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for paradise.

Really, this island is pure eye candy.

Enjoy, and be sure to check out my other Leyte posts!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Leyte, Philippines

My motorbike tour of Leyte Province

Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos

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The post KALANGGAMAN ISLAND: The Best Beach in the Philippines? appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

1st Stop in Southern Leyte – Peter’s Dive Resort

When Peter’s Dive Resort sent me an invite to come and experience the region for myself, I jumped at the chance. Fascinating corals and thousands of colorful fish lied in wait just below the surface…and that was just the snorkeling…

On a beautiful day, our boat “set sail” out on the open sea. Next stop, Napantao Dive sanctuary on Panaon Island – just across Sogod Bay from Peter’s Dive Resort.

Napantao Dive Sanctuary

We anchored the boat about 10 meters from a rugged, coconut tree lined beach. After the divemaster pointed me to the best corals, I put my life vest, mask and snorkel on and swam out.

Full disclosure: I joined a group of Peace Corps Volunteers who were all diving, but I just snorkeled on this trip.

Snorkeling over Surreal Coral Landscapes

Just off the beach where we docked, I found the coral garden above while snorkeling in about 2-3 meters of water. Pretty cool!  They kind of remind me of flowers. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this type of corals? I have had no luck in my research so far…

I have snorkeled all over the Philippines, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen this many fish. They were small, but neon blue…and shimmering beautifully in the sunlight above. I also took a photo of a unique brain coral tucked away in a coral “cubby hole”. Never seen anything like it.

I also stumbled upon a massive group of Clownfish. Must have been 30 + in one location! I’ve seen a lot of clownfish in the Philippines, but never more than 3 or 4 in one place. I wonder if this was a breeding site, or what?

Feeling the after affects of my strenuous rifr around Leyte, after about 40 minutes in the water I was tired, cold, and hungry. Luckily, back on the beach,  the team was preparing lunch with fresh caught fish grilling over a fire. The problem was that the wood was moist, and not so easy to burn.

Here’s comes good ol’ Filipino ingenuity to save the day….a dive instructor borrowed one of my fins to fan the flames!

Totally worked.

There was much more to the meal than just fish…we had a full spread with rice, veggies, and even chicken, I think. We definitely didn’t go hungry, I’ll tell you that much. This was a pretty good intro to to snorkeling and diving in southern Leyte, but the next day I was super excited to join a boat trip to Limasawa island, to the south.

Limasawa Island Dive Site

The weather on the first day was a bit cloudy, which put a damper on my photography – both above and below the water. The Limasawa trip was much better, though. Beautiful, sunny day out on the water!

I noticed in southern Leyte the local fishermen wear conical hats, similar to the ones worn in Vietnam. I know they do a good job keeping the sun of your head, but I didn’t see them worn anywhere else in the country, so it makes me wonder if there’s a story behind them.

These fishermen were pretty curious about me taking pictures. At one point they started waiving their paddle in the air to get my attention for a shot! Haha.

Limasawa Island (which means “5 Wives” in Filipino) is supposedly the site of the very first Catholic mass in the Philippines, undertaken by father Pedro de Valderrama, sailing with the fleet of the explorer Ferdinand Magellan.

Anyhow, the island itself is just stunning. We weren’t able to get off the boat and climb up to the marker cross on the hill (I read about it), but the turquoise sea and white sand beaches dotting the island were just beautiful.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Coral Reef + Fish @ Limasawa Snorkeling Site

This was one of the more colorful and fascinating coral formations I came across. If you’re wondering, I took all these photos with my underwater camera, the Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE

(More photos)

I wish I knew more about the fish and coral species, so I could share the names with you. If you know, please leave a comment! I know I saw some nice table corals  + other hard corals…as well as some beautiful soft corals, and even a Banded Sea Krait (snake)!

They are highly venomous, but also highly harmless…haha. They pretty much ignore you. If you were unlucky enough to step on one you could *possibly* get bit. Even then, apparently they don’t always release their venom. Beautiful creatures, in any case.

These last 2 photos are my favorites from this snorkeling trip. Above is a male clownfish protecting his nest in a beautifully sunlit anemone.

Below…I have no idea what this leopard-patterned fish is called. I’m hoping somebody can tell me. It’s the first one I’ve ever seen…so striking! I think it’s some kind of a bottom feeder. * I just found out that this could be a Leopard Blenny…or some other type of blenny perhaps? I wonder if any of you have any ideas?

How To Get To Southern Leyte

You can take flights from Cebu or Manila to the smaller airports of Tacloban or Ormoc (that one’s further away). If you’re a bit flexible with schedule, you might find a great deal on a promo flight from Cebu Pacific Air. There are also fast ferries departing from Cebu (about a 3 hour trip) + a 45 minute bus transfer to the Resort.

If you’re adventurous, you could rent a car or motorbike from Haven’s transport in Tacloban and drive yourself!

Big thanks to Shelani and the Peter’s Dive Resort team! As a lot of dive resorts tend to be,  it’s pretty simple…but a good value with top notch food & service. Plus, the snorkeling and diving was fantastic. Definitely recommended.

Be sure to check out my other Leyte posts, too…

My Massive Motorbike Trip Around Leyte Province

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

A Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour – Leyte, Philippines

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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The post Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos – Leyte, Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

Open For Business – & Better Than Ever

I know it’s been over 3 years…but I guess I didn’t expect this much progress. The Philippines is a country close to my heart, and it has many strengths. However, if I’m being honest, progress isn’t really one of them. Like the U.S., there is so much political infighting. Progress moves at a snail’s pace…if things are even moving forward at all.

However, Tacloban looked great. It was bustling with shops and businesses, and the quality of goods and services went far beyond my expectations. It’s not a large city, but somehow it feels more sophisticated like one.

I had a motorbike very generously provided by Haven’s Tourist Transport near the airport. Rhoel, the owner, was a great guy. He gave me a quick tour of the area before I took the bike out myself.

I stopped by a few places downtown. The first was beautiful Hotel Alejandro, which dates back to prewar times. There is an impressive exhibit with hundreds of historical photos on the walls. After that, I checked out Sto Niño Church, which is a vibrant white color now that it has been restored post-typhoon.

(More Tacloban street photos)

Next was the Sto. Niño Shrine and Heritage Museum, a rest home built for former President Marcos’ wife Imelda. Apparently her bathroom was larger than most of the citizens’ homes, and she actually ended up staying in the place only once.

I was able to do some street photography downtown, where I captured the hustle and bustle of the jeepneys, trikes, and commuters. Last, I visited the Anibong Memorial, or Yolanda Shrine. Many cargo ships washed ashore during the storm, but people began visiting and taking photos of this one in particular. Knowing this, the government decided to turn it into a monument – to memorialize the victims of the super typhoon.

The MacArthur Landing Site

Leyte is famous with WWII history buffs. That’s because just south of Tacloban, you can find the site of General Douglas MacArthur’s famous return to the Philippines. The American general had been forced to flee from the Japanese previously, but he kept his promise – and these statues memorialize his unit’s return.

It was quite surreal for me, because I ended up here on the 4th a July, our Independence Day in the U.S. It’s a time of celebration with friends and family, which I was desperately missing, having been on the other side of the world for over a year. Somehow, visiting this monument on this day brought me home.

I’ve always wanted to come here. It’s actually a National Park, and it’s located in the town of Palo, about 10 kms south of Tacloban City.

Tacloban Restaurants

This is what particularly impressed me about Tacloban. The business owners seem to be so motivated, and the service + quality standards are a cut above much of the rest of the country. I guess I was impressed by the food in Leyte and Samar in general. Are the ingredients better in this region, or do people just have tastes that fall more in line with mine? 

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina

Rewind back to March, 2013. I’m wandering the streets of Dumaguete (southern Philippines), with a hunger in my belly. I find a nice looking chicken restaurant, and try some Chicken Inasal.

Now fast forward to present day. I never imagined I would receive an invite to dine with the owner of the Tacloban branch, 3 years later. Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina serves family-style Filipino food in a comfortable garden-style environment.

(Photos of Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina)

(Assortment of Filipino foods)

The owner, Apple Anido Alagon was kind to prepare a nice selection of dishes and desserts for me to sample. Loved the Pineapple Mango Ginger Slush…all shakes and slushes are made with real fruit.  Also pictured is the dessert turon (fried banana) with langka (jackfruit) and ice cream.

Next is the house specialty. It looks like Bacolod-style Chicken Inasal, but with a pork BBQ stick included. It’s called Jo’s Chicken Inato Combo. Last, a plate of Zamboanga-style Spicy Shrimp.

Yes, there’s also unli (unlimited) rice.

Another one of Apple’s claims to fame is her Salted Egg Potato Chips. Apparently they have proven quite popular with the locals, even some being taken back home as pasalubong, or souvenir gifts. If it’s not obvious, Jo’s is well suited for Asian / Filipino taste buds.

Apple’s family has been in the Leyte region for generations, as is evident by the 90 year-old fountain on display in the garden. It was built by her great grandparents. She does quite a bit of community outreach as well, and is just a bright and cheery person in general. Stop by and check the place out!

Jo’s Chicken Inato Milagrina: 241 P. Burgos St. +63 53 832 2042

Canto Fresco Pizza (Italian Influenced)

Pizza is one of my guilty pleasures, and the best way to cure my homesickness when I’m out on the road. However, it’s not always easy to find decent pizza in the Philippines. Well, Canto Fresco goes well beyond decent pizza, in fact it’s quite gourmet. I was particularly interested in the Mozzarella Bites I saw on the menu…

Oh my, they really hit the spot. It’s so nice to nice to have legit pizza with authentic ingredients like this. I can’t remember name of the one I ordered, but I’ve never tasted anything like it. Very festive! Haha. Honestly, I enjoyed it, but the herb flavor they used could have been toned down a tiny bit. It was unique, but a bit overpowering.

(Photos – Canto Fresco)

The carafe of mixed fruit and vegetable juices was delicious! Very refreshing. I was hoping to find a menu online so I could specify all items, but no luck. Anyhow, the ingredients are fresh, pizza is homemade (and hand-tossed), and the indoor / outdoor seating atmosphere is rustic and charming. Very much recommended!

Canto Fresco: 279 Burgos St. +63 53 523 9085

 (Continued below, but I recommend Booking.com if you need a good hotel in Tacloban)

Highside Bar & Restaurant

How perfect is it to visit a motorcycle-themed restaurant during my motorbike trip around Leyte? Highside was born from a passion for riding, but also from the tragedy of typhoon Haiyan. I sat with a few of the owners, Jo Jo and Mal, and listened to their story.

Mal has quite a harrowing tale of loss and survival himself. After the storm, the old friends would gather to have drinks and perhaps try to cheer each other up. They only had each other, as their wives and remaining family members had been relocated to safer areas. Like thousands of other Taclobanons, they had lost so much. Their city was devastated. What to do now?

Well, you know the expression…when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. In their case, they rebuilt. Not only that, but they channeled their love of motorcycling into a restaurant business, and even repurposed the remnants of vehicles destroyed in the storm. These pieces were used to decorate the bar, along with some of their own complete motorcycles, which were left inoperable.

The guys told me that before, people were more timid to invest their money in new businesses, or to spend it around town having a good time. However, the storm taught them that you never know what will happen tomorrow, so you might as well enjoy today.

(Click photos for more info about Highside)

I’ll never forget Jo Jo telling me “Money could do nothing for us. During the storm, Taclobanons were all struggling together. ..regardless of their income or status. That storm leveled the playing field”. A powerful reminder of this sits right on the wall. It’s the hood and trunk of a fancy BMW, which completely washed away in the storm. Oil barrels are now creative lounge seating, Hummer tires serve as giant beer coasters.

Speaking of beer, this is the best place to make it happen. The food is excellent, too. While not a single dish let me down, I especially loved the spicy jalapeño “lumpia”, called “Dynamite”. It’s jalapeño, cheese, chili, and ground beef – wrapped up lumpia style, and served with a tangy sauce.

I have to give it to these guys, they have done a great job making the most of this truly unfortunate situation. They felt like brothers to me, and I hope to visit them in their popular hangout again someday.

Highside Bar & Restaurant Gomez St @ Paterno +63 917 504 9452

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HQ Food Park

While checking out the food stalls on Justice Romualdez Street, I met a guy who recommended a newly opened place south of town. It sounded familiar, and I realized I had passed it on my motorbike on the way to the MacArthur Landing site.

I came for an early dinner during the week (hence the smaller crowd). I imagine it gets pretty lively during the weekends. HQ is the first of its kind in Tacloban – a large food / gastro park, complete with drinks, darts,  and live music.

I love the graffiti mural of General MacArthur out front…due to its proximity to the landing site, that was a nice touch.

General MacArthur Graffiti & Grilled Pork Belly @ HQ

I found some super cheap and delicious liempo (pork belly) here…nice to have a kamayan dinner! That means you eat only with your hands. I loved that they serve the rice wrapped in coconut leaves…I think this is called puso in Cebu. Anyhow, HQ Food Park is open pretty late, and worth checking out!

HQ Food Park – Real St, Fatima Village

Cafe Lucia – Definitely Worth a Mention

This charming little cafe sits across from the Tacloban Astrodome. It serves delicious + affordable coffee and snacks. Really, I was impressed! Wish there were more places like it in the Philippines, and that I had more time to explore other menu options:)

Tacloban Hotels

(Agoda)

GV Hotel is a super cheap option right downtown. A good value, but you get what you pay for.

Ironwood Hotel is a classy place (more money, but still a great value). It has a very good reputation, with plenty of rave reviews.

(Booking.com)

If you prefer to use booking.com, check out more Tacloban City hotels here

How To Get There

Tacloban can be reached via boat or plane…but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila and Cebu. Again, if you need transportation when you arrive at the airport, check out Haven’s Car & Motorbike Rental.

Thanks for the Memories, Tacloban

This city is now high on my list of favorites in the Philippines. The people, the culture, and the food left a lasting impression on me. Big, big thanks to all who made this trip possible: Canto Fresco team, Mal, Jo Jo, Apple, Krizette and Rhoel…keep on making Tacloban proud.

I took this photo of the sunset at Tacloban Port. One of my favorites from this trip, and a great way to wrap up this piece.

I Shall  Return…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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The post A Tour of Tacloban City: Once Defined by Tragedy – Now, Ambition appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Touring Leyte’s WWII history has always been on my bucket list. While visiting some friends in Singapore, they asked what my next trip might be. I told them it could be Leyte, but I had no real plans for it. Well, the power of suggestion is strong…and I do believe that “The universe conspires to help the dreamer”.

The next day I was hit with the urge to check flights. Boom. Promo flights, both to the Philippines, and also to Tacloban from Cebu. As we say back in California:

It’s on like Donkey Kong.

Before I knew it, I had reached out to my readers and lined up a pretty incredible trip, including a super nice motorbike (courtesy of  Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban). If you’re wondering, Leyte is a huge island province in the southern Philippines – one of the largest, I believe.

Time For the Open Road…On My Way To Kananga

I was on a mission to get to Palompon, the jump off point to beautiful Kalanggaman island. I zipped through the towns of Palo, Tunga, and quite a colorful fiesta in Carigara. Normally I would stop and enjoy the festivities, but I had an island tour lined up, so I had to push on.  I started winding up the beautiful mountain roads outside town, and noticed the air cooling a bit.

Soon, I headed over the pass and made my way down into a plain of lush, green rice fields.

These are the rice paddies along the highway in Kananga. Knowing that I was making good time, I decided to get off the bike and take some landscape pictures. As you can see my motorbike was quite customized, including a nice windshield (although I’m so tall…my head popped over the top! Haha.)

Kananga Parish Church

There is a similar looking church in Palo, but I was in a hurry when I rode passed it (plus the sky was cloudy there). I’m quite picky about the skies and colors in my photos. Anyhow, I was thrilled to see this beautiful alternative on my way through Kananga.

(There was a actually a 6.5 magnitude earthquake that happened as I was riding the motorbike out of Tacloban. I didn’t even realize. Sadly, a building collapsed in Kananga. One person died, but fortunately, all the others were rescued.)

Palompon Town, and San Juan Beach

I arrived in the (surprisingly) bustling town of Palompon just before sunset. I asked a local where a good place to photograph was, and they pointed me to San Juan Beach. By the time I found it, the light was really fading. Still had enough time to chat with friendly beachgoers and snap some photos, though.

I always love being on the beach at this time in the Philippines. You can find kids playing in the water while their fishermen fathers bring in the boats. Yes, island smiles abound when things finally cool off each day.

I said goodby to the surfers and skimboarders, and made my way back to Asayas Pension Plaza, where I ended up staying the night.

Funny how my life works, this place was recommended to me, and when I walked in the front door, I noticed old cameras and photography themed decor all over the room! The owner is Mr. Juanito D. Asaya, a renowned photographer who even snapped photos of former President Marcos water skiing back in the 70s. He even had an old Ricoh SLR on the shelf – the same brand I use today.

 (Continued below, but I do hope you’ll follow along with me)

Coastal Fishing Village of Ipil (Palompon)

The next morning I set out to explore Palompon town a bit. I became fascinated by this “floating” native village on stilts in the water. I asked some local kids how to go there, but I think they were too shy to respond. However, as I was walking away a boy crossing the street told me he would take me there.

Turns out he actually lived there, so he knew it well!

His name was Zar, and really was a bright kid. I was so grateful for his impromptu tour, though I was a bit worried that my excess weight might crack the bamboo walkways between houses! he looked worried, too. Haha…I’m sure he never saw somebody my size trying to navigate these elevated paths.

As for the local residents, they could practically walk these precarious planks and pathways with their eyes closed. It’s just an everyday part of life.

Anyhow, it was a fascinating place to document, and I appreciated his help very much. I hope somehow he might read this someday.

The next morning I embarked on my incredible overnight camping trip to Kalanggaman Island, but you can find the link for that story at the end of this post:)

The Road To Southern Leyte

The long trip had wiggled loose a small bolt on my tailpipe, and it began to rattle loudly as I rode. Luckily I noticed a huge Yamaha dealer as I passed through Ormoc City, and they replaced it at no cost. Very nice! I was in a hurry to make it all the way to Padre Burgos in the far south, so I didn’t have time to see more of Ormoc. As I left town, the road really opened up, and traffic started moving FAST.

Before I knew it, I had passed the beautiful coastline of Inopacan (which I vowed to come back and visit someday), and I arrived in the busy town of Maasin. I know this means “very salty” in Filipino, but I’m not sure if it means the same thing here. I also learned that Maasin is the birthplace of current president, Rodrigo Duterte. I always assumed he was born in Davao!

Sunburnt and exhausted, I had a very late lunch in Maasin and then continued to the Macrohon area, where I took this photo of a tree lined street. At least, I think it was the Macrohon area….in any case, it was an enchanting section of highway.

People in Leyte so far had been incredible warm and friendly, but for some reason, around this small section of road, I got some pretty odd looks from the locals. I couldn’t help but wonder if they had a particularly bad experience with a foreigner in the past here. In any case, soon enough, I finally made it to Padre Burgos. The good vibes resumed. The link to my experience @ Peter’s Dive Resort can be found at the end of this post…

After 2 amazing days of snorkeling / diving with new friends, I got back on the bike and rode up the coast to Sogod, where I snapped these photos from a bridge over the Hipgasan river (I think?). Again, I was sunburnt and famished (riding for countless hours in the tropical sun really takes a toll on you). I stopped for lunch at a friendly eatery near the Sogod Public Market.

Then I traveled to a remote part of St. Bernard, where there was a crowd of people gathered. Noticing a beautiful mountain landscape above their village, I pulled the bike over to take a picture.

I assumed the crowd was waiting along the road for a bus, but actually there was a massive neighborhood brawl. It sounded really serious, with a lot of screaming and commotion, but the guys next to me were just laughing. They looked at me and said “Don’t worry, they’re just drunk.”

Like an idiot, I had assumed I could make it all the way from Padre Burgos up to Tacloban in one day. This was a pipe dream…while beautiful, the road was far more windy and slow going than I anticipated. I pushed as hard as I could in the fading light, but was ready to eat dinner and pass out by the time I reached Hinundayan.

 (If you’re curious about Leyte hotels, you can check them out below)

I forgot to mention that this whole trip was pitch black once the sun went down, because the earthquake knocked out power all over Leyte. Riding at night in the Philippines is stressful and dangerous (road hazards).  A local pointed me to Julie’s Lodge, where I found a very warm and welcoming Julie + caretaker.

Her daughters and sons are working all over the world, such a fascinating story! Very kind people, and definitely an affordable place to stop along the way.

An American Peace Corps volunteer at the dive resort had told me about a fish sanctuary further up the road…I told him I didn’t have time to visit it, as I was planning to go all the way to Tacloban that day. Well, here I was with some time…after being forced to break the trip up.

When Mrs. Julie told me I should stop by there on the way too, I considered it a sign. I readied my snorkel and mask, and made my way up the rustic dirt road through the village.

Snorkeling @ Ambao / Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

Wow, I guess this was pretty meant to be! There’s not a lot of coral right off the dock where I snorkeled, but there are SO MANY fish. The caretaker was feeding them with bread that I had purchased from him, so I guess that explains the feeding frenzy. Haha.

It’s surreal being in the water with all these fish.  Similar to experiences I had at Juag Lagoon in Sorsogon, I suppose. If you’re wondering, I took these with my Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE.

Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

You’re basically just snorkeling along the edge of a cement wall, but there is a tiny coral growth there I found to photograph. It may be man made, but it’s worth it to see all these beautiful fish. Calagitan Fish Sanctuary is located in Ingan, Hinundayan, and has a 10 or 20 peso entry fee (I can’t remember, but it was cheap. You can pay 10 pesos for bread to feed them as well.)

The guys there were super nice, we shared fresh-caught octopus and rice for lunch, and I gave them a bit of extra money before continuing north. If you go, don’t forget to bring your own mask and snorkel.

Silago / Abuyog Boundary Creek

As I left the coast and started heading up into the mountains, the landscape began to change. When I came across a picturesque bridge with a small waterfall, I had to stop the bike and relax for a while. I really fell in love with this cool, creek canyon.

Just a rocky, babbling brook meandering through a lush jungle of ferns. I could have stayed there all day.

I came down from the mountains and felt the HEAT of the valley. There were some beautiful rice fields in the villages around Abuyog. These look they have been planted fairly recently, but I’m no expert. People here also seemed a bit wary of me, but Leyte Regional Prison is located way out here, so maybe they’re just wary of strangers in case they’re escapees. Do I look like one? Haha.

After this, the road opened up again, and I practically flew all the way back to Tacloban.

C’est fini.

Leyte Hotels

You can browse hotels with review on Agoda HERE

If you prefer Booking.com, you can click HERE

How To Get To Leyte

You can find super cheap Cebu Pacific promo flights to Tacloban or Ormoc City (I paid about $15 each!), but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila or Cebu. If you fly to Tacloban, you can pick up a motorbike or car near the airport and tour the area yourself. As a photographer, this is the only option for me. I’ll never forget this trip.

Again, big thanks to Rhoel @ Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban. My trip went off without a hitch because I had a solid, reliable bike. Rhoel’s an awesome guy, too. What an incredible experience Leyte was – overall, one of my favorite regions in the Philippines now. I love the history, I love the people, I love the food, and I love the countryside.

That’s a lot of love.

Thanks for taking such good care of me, Leyte.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

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Related Links

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

My Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving With Peter’s Dive Resort, Southern Leyte

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