By Nathan Allen

Antique Province – “Where The Mountains Meet The Sea”

(Scroll down if you want to go directly to Antique hotels and attractions)

About a year ago I was researching new places to explore in the Philippines.  I came across a photo of Filipino blogger Melo Villareal “cooking” in giant pot. It was in a little-known province called Antique, and from then on, I knew I had to see this place for myself!

Found south of Boracay on the western side of Panay Island, the sleepy province of Antique provides many opportunities for adventure and relaxation – and all off the beaten path. 

While the province has some pretty good beaches, that’s not where Antique really shines – it’s more about the lush mountains, rice fields, cascading waterfalls, and warm smiles from the people that call it home. 

Oh yeah, that, and the unique experience of being “cooked” in a hot KAWA bath!  In truth, it’s very relaxing after a good hike and chilly swim in Bugtong Bato Falls:)

 (Some of my favorite photos from Antique)

One of my favorite things about Antique is that it spans the the whole west coast of Panay island, so there are so many opportunities to photograph beautiful sunsets.  Walking barefoot in the mud with a stunning sunset over the rice paddies – that was was something I’ll never forget!  I also loved how affordable food and accommodations were, and the fact that for some reason, mosquitoes in Antique don’t find me very delicious!  Ohh how I loved that…anyhow, here is the story of Antique and I…

“Kkkruhayyyy!!!” my local guide Flord enthusiastically yells out upon my arrival.  The language here is called “Kinaray-a”, and kruhay means welcome. 

Then he handed me a packed schedule of activities for the next three days of filming.  Wait…filming? 

It turns out ABS CBN’s “Rated K” crew was covering Antique   on the same weekend, and they wanted to use footage of me exploring as well.  I was hesitant at first, but life is like a river, I say…so you just go with the flow. 

The next morning we began touring the province to meet and dine with many of the provincial mayors.  I want to thank all of them for their warmth and hospitality!  We were even treated to a musical performance in one of their homes.

Later we attended a lively singing performance called “Istorya-Kanta Kinaray-a”.  I was so happy that these two talented singers are working hard to promote and preserve the local Karay-a culture.  The colorful young dancers added a nice dimension to the experience as well. 

Kinaray-a is a fascinating language – and it’s quite descriptive!  One very interesting example is how they have 3 different names for male and female genitalia – depending on the age and development stage of the person in question!  Kinaray-a is also one of the only Filipino languages I know of that has uses a “schwa” vowel sound.  An example is the Cebuano word ‘hubog’, which in Kinaray-a would be pronounced “hubug” – except the “u” is pronounced like the English words “hug” or “bug”. 

Kayaking and Hiking To Bugtong Bato Falls

Tibiao is known for its exciting eco-adventure park.  The Tibiao River offers kayaking at all skill levels.  After a brief kayaking session, I took a swim in the river to cool off.  Then I explored the surrounding area a bit and met some very friendly locals.

After all the kayaking footage was finished, we began the beautiful, brief trek to Bugtong Bato Falls. 

The trail starts in the village of Tuno, where our presence cause many curious smiles.  The scenery on the way to the falls was just stunning. Shown here are some rice terraces we passed along the way. Note: There are some other beautiful rice terraces that I didn’t have a chance to explore. Ask the locals!

We arrived at the falls, but had lunch  waiting for us at Bugtong Bato Falls Inn (formerly Peter’s Lodge).  I was so happy to finally have good Filipino food after being away in the States for so long! 

Afterward, they filmed members of our group repelling down the falls, and I took a swim in the chilly water.  Then I was finally ready for a soak in the hot kawa!  What a day – and what a beautiful place!

Boat Trip To Malalison Island

Malalison (also known as Mararison) island is part of Culasi, and is just a short boat ride away. 

We boarded the boat before sunrise, and first made our way toward far away Seco Island (in the process of being rehabilitated). 

We hit some rain and rough water on the way.  I fell asleep, but when I woke up, the skies had cleared up and the perfectly calm water looked like glass! 

To add to the magic of the moment, flying fish began to shoot out of the water and soar through the sky – I’ve never seen them before!

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-Nathan

There are a few pretty good snorkeling sections with corals and fish.  I saw a very large puffer fish, some clownfish, and a few lionfish, which was a first for me.   Ask the locals where the best places to snorkel are.  You will need to bring your own snorkel, mask, and fins.

The children of Malalison island (Culasi) are just adorable.  They love to sing – and in fact prepared a special Karay-a (local language)  version of the Frozen song “Let It Go” for us!  A few of them took me on a hike over the of of the island. If you are familiar with Batanes island, Malalison has dry, grassy hills that are a bit similar.  It seems quite uncharacteristic for this region of the Philippines. 

On the hike, I also noticed “pitcher plants“, which are fascinating insect-eating plants!  Since I was a kid, I always wanted to see one in real life.  I really loved the experience of being on this humble little island.

Again, Malalison Island can be reached via a brief boat trip from Culasi.  Ask the boat men on the beach, or use the contact info mentioned later.

Lambaklad Fishing in Tibiao

I almost skipped Lambaklad fishing, but I’m so glad I didn’t…just look at what an incredible experience this was! 

The name Lambaklad come from the word for “net” (lambat) and “fish corral” (baklad). 

You can join the fisherman very early in the morning, or at 3pm in the afternoon. 

The tradition is to leave your tsinelas (flip flops) on the beach, wash your feet in the water, then board the giant bamboo raft.  e words lambat (net) and baklad (fish corral).

As the name suggests, there is a large corral and net under the water.  As far as I know, the fisherman slowly pull the net in, which brings the raft toward the fish, and pushes them into net. 

Afterward, the fisherman take their share, and the rest is bought after a negotiation.  I loved witnessing this!

Tibiao Fish Spa – Don’t forget to “feed” the fish at Tibiao Fish Spa afterward!  It is directly across the street from the beach entrance for Lambaklad fishing.  I have tried a few different fish spas now, but the experience here is much better.  The fish are not so timid, and they will really nibble away at your feet!  It tickles at first, but I got used to it very quickly.  If you are brave enough to dip your feet into the pool with the bigger fish, my advice is to not keep them in too long:) 

Trekking to Igpasungaw Falls in Sebaste

I am very independent, and when I was told that I would have guides accompanying me to Igpasungaw Falls in Sebaste, I was a bit frustrated.  

However, this hike was MUCH more challenging and confusing than I thought, so the guides were actually very much appreciated!  Go to the municipal hall in Sebaste to inquire about guides to this incredible place. 

I learned that Antique got its name from “hantik“, which is the word for the black ants which can be found on Panay. Island  Here at the falls, I put my hand down and was bitten by one! I always knew red ants bite, but I’ve never heard of black ants that do as well!  You learn something every day, they say:)

Brick & Pottery Making in Barangay Bandoja

Later I was fortunate to visit a brick making facility, and not only did I see where the clay was excavated from, but also the giant kiln which bakes the handmade bricks.   Nearby I attended a pottery demonstration as well.  You could see the fascination in her grandson’s eyes as she showed us the age-old tradition of this barangay. 

The Colorful Binirayan Festival – Dec 28th through the 30th

On a last-minute trip to Nogas island in southern Antique, I was sidetracked by bad weather and instead ended up at the colorful Binirayan Festival.  What an experience!  This was a perfect reminder that “when one door closes, another opens”.

All the cities in the province came together to compete in the capital, San Jose.  While I was quite impressed with all of the performances (I only witnessed 6, to be fair), two really caught my attention.  Caluya and Sibalom. 

Wow, they really went all out!  I was thankful to have a great view to take photos from the stage.  I was seated next to the governor, and they announced that “I Dreamed Of This” was visiting.  What an honor to be there.  This festival is technically 29 days long, because you know, it really is more fun in the Philippines!

Exploring and Snorkeling Nogas Island – Anini-y, Antique

After the festival, I finally had a chance to visit Nogas island in southern Antique.  Thanks to the local tourism officer, Mrs. Karen, I explored the famous “Kalachuchi”  flower walkway and lighthouse at the end.  The island has kubos (beach huts) you can rent, but no place to eat, sleep, or buy snacks. 

We hiked to the opposite end of the island, and on the way, experienced a fascinating rubber tree, along with unique mangrove forests along the shore. 

The snorkeling and diving here is quite underrated if you ask me!  I recommend taking a trip with The Divehouse – you can depart from the mainland in Anini-y.  There is more info about this below in the “Where To Stay” section. 

San Jose’s “Purple House” & Hanging With The Locals

What a unique “I Dreamed Of This” experience!  To say that Mrs. Violetta loves the color purple is an understatement.   She has decorated her entire house (and family) in the color purple! 

She is a very sweet lady, and once filming was finished, we were again treated to a nice meal (with purple snacks!)  Even the bedrooms, furniture, and kitchen utensils were purple! I felt like I was Alice In Wonderland. 

While here, I also had a chance to explore the surrounding barangay (neighborhood)  People were so curious to see me taking photos on the side of the road!  It was truly an unforgettable experience  to be immersed in the day-to-day life of Antiqueños! 

Where To Stay – Antique Hotels and Inns

Phaidon Beach Resort

If you are looking for a beach resort in Antique, Phaidon in Pandan is the #1 recommendation online.  Great for couples, divers, or just those looking for a peaceful alternative to the crowds of Boracay.  Staff is gracious, wifi is good, and breakfast is included.  Your money goes further in Antique. 

Book Phaidon Beach Resort HERE (Agoda) or for Booking.com, click HERE

Kayak Inn

This cheaper and more “native” alternative is located directly on the Tibiao River, and has a view of the rice fields as well.  It is the original location of the “kawa” bath, and is great for a photo op. 

Book Kayak Inn HERE

Kasa Raya Traveller’s Inn & Resto

Kasa Raya is a great budget option in Tibiao, and they recently even added aircon rooms.  Conveniently located on the main road where the junction to Tuno and Bugtong Bato Falls is.  There is a Petron station attached to the inn.  The falls are just 5km away from here.

I have to be honest, I am friends with the nice little family that runs it, but you can feel better knowing that I became friends with them by staying here:)

I like the feel that the bamboo construction gives the place.  The restaurant has a modest but solid menu with some great value options, and the budget rooms even come with breakfast! 

I was particularly impressed by the lechon manok and fried chicken.  They also serve a good brewed coffee.  The best part is that you can enjoy your meal overlooking the rice fields out back.

You can contact the owner Alex by phone here: 09175247875  I believe Kasa Raya is also listed on airbnb.com. Please say hi for me, and tell him I sent you…Alex also gives incredible personalized tours around Antique & Panay!

Zipline Inn and Bugtong Bato Falls Inn

The first photo is from Zipline Inn, which offers native-style rooms in a beautiful setting.  Zipline Inn is located on the road before you get to Tuno.  Yes, there is an actual zipline, but I’m not sure if it’s currently operating.  The rest of the photos are from Bugtong Bato Falls Inn – which is a bit more adventurous, as you have to hike in a bit to get there.  Don’t worry, it’s a mild 20 minute trek:)  Nearby the falls, they have a beautiful setting for a meal or hot kawa bath – and they have budget options as well!

The rest of the photos are from Bugtong Bato Falls Inn – which is a bit more adventurous, as you have to hike in a bit to get there.  Don’t worry, it’s a mild 20 minute trek:)  Nearby the falls, they have a beautiful setting for a meal or hot kawa bath – and they have budget options as well!

Dalaag Resort and Campsite, Dao

Dalaag Resort and Campsite is a complex under development, but the 800 square meter pool (yes, you read that correctly) and 3-story water slide is open now.  You can also rent the kubos (huts) for the day or evening.  There are many more exciting plans for this property, including the possibility of an obstacle course, zip line, and even fishing facilities!

The Divehouse – Anini-y

The Divehouse is rustic resort on the beach has been constructed in large part from reclaimed wood from old ships and sailing vessels.  I really got a sense of history from all the bits and pieces that comprise the beams and railings of the property.  I quite enjoyed taking photos of everything. 

The owner “Boy” and his cast of characters here are entertaining as well.  They are very welcoming, and a lot of fun.  The place is definitely more on the rustic side, and if you ask me, that’s what’s so charming about it – don’t come expecting an updated resort with a modern design.  You can stay overnight with all meals and 3-4 dives included.  In my opinion, Anini-y is an underrated snorkeling and diving destination!  Ask the staff where the most beautiful corals are.

There is a nice veranda with a hammock and reliable wifi if you want to stay in and relax.  Great company and freshly prepared meals cooked over an open flame – this is what it’s all about.  Also make sure to witness the locals pulling the giant nets in right from the shore – it’s called “sahid” fishing!

How To Get To Antique – Contact Info & Tours

Antique province can be reached by bus or van from Kalibo or Caticlan airports, and also by bus or van from Iloilo city.  Depending on where you are going, it can be anywhere from a 2 hour to 5 hour trip.

If you have time and are very adventurous, the region can be explored independently, and you can contact Karmila Dimamay if you need any assistance.  I recommend connecting with Alex @ Kasa Raya Traveller’s Inn for tours. He is focused on providing excellent environmentally conscious tours, and he is a great guy. Alex can be reached at phone # 09175247875

Where To Eat in Antique

• Kasa Raya Traveller’s Inn and Resto (Tibiao) – Please see the listing above.  They have some delicious and affordable options here.

• The Green Mug Coffee shop (Tibiao) – I love this place, because they have great coffee – and it’s very reasonably priced!   I never understood why “real” coffee is so expensive in the Philippines – a coffee growing country!  Haha.  Anyhow, they have Americanos for 30 pesos, and lattes for just 50.  Some very affordable food options as well!  Hidden away location, so you may have to ask the local trike drivers. 

• Tibiao Bakery – I’ve seen these around the island of Panay, but of course, the first one can be found here in Tibiao.  Worth stopping by for pastries and snacks!

• Mamma Mia Pizzeria (Tibiao) – One of the owners is Italian I hear, so the ingredients are legit.  The pizza is pretty good, but it’s a bit pricey for the region.  The pasta was very good!

• Island Choice (Culasi) – I had a very affordable pizza here, and for the money, I was quite impressed!  Also tried a buko shake, and that was good as well.  Great prices and friendly service.  Located in the city center. 

(Tip:  I think there is an international ATM in San Jose (BPI, I believe), but as far as I know, there are no others around Antique. You might want to get cash in Iloilo, Caticlan, or Boracay if you are a foreigner)

Goodbye, Antique – My Home Away From Home

I felt so comfortable there, and I have a feeling I’ll be returning over the years.  I’d like to thank Flord + Katahum, Karmila Dimamay, and Alex de Moscoso+family for all the hospitality and help during my stay.  Like I mentioned at the start, while there are a few decent resorts here, this province is really great for the off-the-beaten-path adventures – the ones who want to roll up their sleeves and get dirty trekking to a stunning waterfall, or be invited to an impromptu dinner with a rice farmer and his family.  

Antique may have been over-hyped a bit in the past, but as long you’re realistic about what to expect, I think you’ll love it.  If you go and experience some of my recommendations, please give me your feedback! I will update info in my listing if needed. 

Thank you for an incredible, unforgettable experience, Antique.

Hope to see you again soon!

 Like the “I Dreamed Of This” page below to follow along.

– Nathan Allen

The post Explore Antique, Philippines – The Land of Cool Waterfalls and Hot Kawa Baths appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

Our technology-driven culture has given rise to the “flashpacker” movement – basically, it’s backpacking 2.0  Even though our packs are much lighter, today we travel with massive libraries of friends, books, movies and music…right there in our pockets, and anywhere in the world.

The modern traveler needs an updated approach to the hostel model. They need a safe place to recharge their batteries (figuratively and literally). They want to connect with each other, but perhaps more importantly, with their friends and family all over the world. 

One more thing. They have all the tools and resources to make the most of their money, and they expect it to go far…very far.  

Letting Their Customers Promote For Them

More than just a place to lay their heads after a long day of exploring, these travelers want a nice backdrop for their Instagram selfies.  Smart business owners understand that if they play their cards right and provide their customers with wifi, they will promote for them – and for free.

A creative example of this is a set of giant angel-wings painted onto a wall under a hostel’s logo. Guests will line up to stand in front of the wings, “putting them on” for a photo. Then they are posted to FB and IG, where they inspire all sorts of friend-envy.

Anyhow, speaking of inspiration, I was inspired to write this post after visiting the newly opened Z Hostel in Makati, Philippines.  It is perfect example of what I’m talking about. They have struck a nice balance between design, functionality, and affordability.

Due to their hip vibe and innovative user-experience, word-of-mouth has done a lot of the promoting for them! 

This is “Hosteling 2.0”

750 pesos ($18USD) might seem like a lot for a bed in a SE Asian dorm, but when you take a closer look, you’ll see why it’s such a great value (Makati is also notoriously expensive by SE Asian standards). Each room is well-lit and cooled with strong air-con. Each bed-bunk is semi-private, comfortable, and thoughtfully designed.

There are individual “charging stations” integrated right onto the wall, with private reading lamps as well. It seems we flashpackers never have enough outlets when we travel, and Z Hostel has addressed this issue in a big way.  They are literally all over the place!

I guess it’s “surprising” because many international tourists don’t realize just how sleek and cosmopolitan Manila has become.

I was very pleased to find a covered outlet next to the sink in the bathroom. Guys with electric shavers will love this, as will anybody who travels with a hair dryer.

When I think back on my hosteling experiences years ago, I think of cold, dirty showers in dimly-lit mosquito-infested bathrooms. This couldn’t be any further from the Z Hostel experience. The bathrooms are clean, bright, and equipped with relaxing hot-water showers.

Even the lockers in the rooms are strategically designed.  They automatically light when you open them, and come with outlets in each one – so you don’t have to worry about another traveler stealing your device while you leave it charging!  Well planned. 

The private rooms on the upper floors have the same functional design elements, and the views of the Makati skyline can’t be beat.

Cutting-Edge RFID Chip Bracelets For Payments

Z Hostel has generated quite a buzz by offering their guests RFID bracelets to make purchases at their cafe and roofdeck bar.  Personally, I love the idea of cashless transactions…I’ll never forget the first time I ordered  a tasty “Z-Brew” coffee and just touched my bracelet to the ipad screen to complete the transaction.  So cool!

You request a bracelet at the front desk and load a 150 peso minimum, which includes a 50 peso deposit to be returned when you give the bracelet back.  This is especially good for the backpackers who love to party (you know who you are), because they won’t have to worry about losing or keeping track of their cash during a hazy night of drinking on the roof deck.

Famous Roof Deck – Z Hostel Review

Speaking of which, the roofdeck is pretty epic.  The hostel hosts events and frequently features local artists, DJs, and musicians. As most hostels are, the upper rooms can be noisy during these weekend events.  Just something to keep in mind – the hostel conveniently offers earplugs upon request.

I never imagined a hostel could be the “place to be seen”…but Z has accomplished this. It’s not just for overnight guests, but perfect for those who want to mingle with rooftop drinks after a stressful work week as well.

Cafe With a Tastefully Done Menu

The upper rooms come with a thoughtfully prepared breakfast buffet…coffee included! As for other items on the menu, I recommend the burger and fries, as well as the pandesal and cheese. I also tried some traditional Filipino dishes that might pop up on the menu soon, and I can tell you that there is a lot to look forward to!

The Philippines: Much More Than Beaches and Waterfalls

Most international travelers have no idea that the Philippines has such a sleek and modern side to it.  They would be surprised to learn that the country is the “social media capital of the world“, too! Z Hostel embodies this social media savvy spirit.

Just so you know, the property is quite large, and can accommodate group and corporate bookings as well.

Raising the Bar For Philippine Tourism

Overall, I’m quite impressed with what Z Hostel has accomplished.  The prices are just right, and the service and contemporary decor is spot-on. It has a classy, upscale feel to it, but with more of a hip, artistic flair. This is definitely not just another corporate hotel chain.

It is located on a quiet side-street…just far enough from the red light district, which thankfully doesn’t have the same sleazy feel. I believe it’s appropriately named “Williamsburgos“, and I felt very safe there. 

If this is the new face of Philippine tourism, the future’s looking bright! I’d like to thank Agoda and Z Hostel for extending an invitation to experience it. I’d come back in a heartbeat!

You can search options, reviews, and find the best deal on a room HERE.

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By Nathan Allen

On a bumpy bus ride to Cambodia a few years ago, I met a young Swiss couple backpacking their way around the world.  At the time I was just 2 weeks into my first real overseas adventure, so I soaked up their photos and stories with wide-eyed astonishment.  “So you’ve been all over the world…what is your absolute favorite country?”  I just had to ask.

Their faces lit up, as if they had been waiting to tell me the whole time.

“The Philippines, without a doubt.”

Wait, what?  The Philippines?  One would expect them to mention exotic destinations like Thailand, Vietnam, India, or Peru.  To be honest, at that point, the first thing I thought of when I heard the word “Philippines” was poverty (well, thanks to my Filipino friends in California, the first thing was actually lumpia  The second thing I thought of was danger.  After all, the country has made appearances  on the U.S. Travel Advisory website a few times.

I Had To See It For Myself…

Well, I never forgot what that couple told me.  About two years later, I jumped at the chance to visit – and let me tell you – I ended up staying for an entire year!  I have been to many countries, but the Philippines is just different.  There I found a warmth and hospitality that is unrivaled anywhere in the world.  I traveled to many different regions and did my best to learn some of the different languages and customs.  

Check out my tips on Filipino food and phrases further down the page.  By the way, it’s not just for backpackers…there are also world-class resorts on stunning islands such as Boracay, Bohol, and those in Bacuit Bay, El Nido.

Related: My in-depth look at Filipino Culture

It’s a shame, because this country and its people have so much to offer.  So the real question is…

Yes, in that time I fell deeply in love with this beautiful country – just as that Swiss couple had.  Poor?  Yes, there is poverty like other parts of SE Asia, but there is also real wealth, and not just the monetary kind.  Dangerous?  Nope.  A few incidents in the far south have given people a false impression about the risk of traveling through the rest of the country. 

It’s a shame, because this country and its people have so much to offer.  So the real question is…

How Has the Philippines Remained Such a Tiny Blip on the Backpacking Radar??

 One reason the Philippines has gone unnoticed may be because of how isolated it is.  From Thailand you can easily take a cheap bus through a few other countries – Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos.  The Philippines, on the other hand, is a country of over 7,000 islands, and they are hanging out by themselves out in the vast Pacific Ocean. 

Another reason might be that, to western eyes, the country doesn’t seem as “exotic” (read: different) as other Asian nations.  It makes sense, given that it was colonized for hundreds of years by both the U.S. and Spain (from my understanding, Filipinos themselves are a melting pot of Malay, Chinese, and Spanish blood). 

Filipinos have a strong sense of modesty and prefer not to boast or show off.   Perhaps that’s why we haven’t heard much about the beauty of the Philippines yet!  Well I’ve witnessed the beauty and cultural diversity firsthand, and I’m not Filipino…so allow me to boast for them:)  

The country is in fact quite “exotic”, and it’s poised and ready to give other destinations in SE Asia (and even places like the Maldives and the Bahamas) a real run for their money!  In my opinion, backpacking meccas like Khao San Road in Bangkok are completely oversaturated and have just become havens for unruly tourists looking for cheap booze and young girls. 

Thailand has tuk-tuks; the Philippines has trikes and “jeepneys“.  Cambodia has Angkor Wat; the Philippines has the Banaue rice terraces.  Vietnam has bustling Ho Chi Minh City; the Philippines has Makati.  Laos has temples; the Philippines has countless 300+ year old Spanish churches.  Thailand has “Phi Phi Leh” island, where the movie “The Beach” was filmed; the Philippines has breathtaking El Nido, which inspired the movie in the first place. 

For all these reasons (and so many more), I want you to consider postponing that overdone SE Asia backpacking trip and travel to the incredible Philippine Islands instead.

Why? I Thought You’d Never Ask:

• Natural Beauty.  Yes, these islands are STUNNING.  I have seen some beautiful beaches in my life (Florida Keys, Bahamas, Vietnam), but these take the cake.  They are frequently compared to the beaches in southern Thailand and the Maldives, but at just a fraction of the cost.  Yes, budget minded travelers will be in heaven here. 

El Nido’s impressive limestone rock formations are definitely on par with Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, and the incredible 2,000 year-old Rice Terraces in Banaue and Batad are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Did I mention the waterfalls?   SO. MANY. WATERFALLS. 

By the way, it’s well known that this beauty extends to the people as well.  There is even a joke about how Filipina women have been banned from future beauty pageants because other countries want a fair chance of winning.  Haha! 

• Adventure Awaits.  We covered beaches, but what else do you want to do?  Snorkeling / Kayaking in El Nido?  Mind blowing.  Surfing in Siargao’s Cloud 9?  Amazing – and the Red Hot Chili Peppers beat you to it…they just left.  Trekking in the rice terraces of the cordillera?  Boat trip through the Underground River?  You got it.  Spelunking (cave exploring) in Sagada Mountain province?  Unforgettable.  Shipwreck diving in Coron?  Windsurfing / sunset gazing / partying at world famous Boracay beach?  Yes please. 
  

Swimming with the whalesharks (AKA “gentle giants”) in Oslob and Donsol?  Cebu Booze Cruise?  You’ll have a blast.  Zip lines, 4×4 tours in Ilocos Norte, canyon swings, ATV tours up the “perfect” volcano in Legazpi, wakeboarding in Naga City…and much more.  What are you waiting for?

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-Nathan

Pure Joy.  Filipinos are arguably the happiest people on earth, and happiness is not a bad thing to surround yourself with on your coveted vacation, right?  Who knows, some of it might even rub off on you.  Once you’re done reading this and looking over my photos, I think you’ll have an idea why Filipinos are so happy.

They are a people and a culture that have evolved in true paradise, and being such a communal culture, they have plenty of friends and family close by at all times (good priorities / quality of life).

Affordable.  The cheapest room I ever found was on the stunning volcanic island of Camiguin (read my blog post HERE), and it was run by a charming older couple.  I paid just $3.75USD a night!  I wasn’t sleeping in satin sheets, but I couldn’t complain!  In the off season you might pay an average of $7.50 for your own budget room, or as little $3.50 for a dorm.  $20 will get you a pretty nice place, perhaps even with AC instead of just fans. 

I found local carenderias (eateries) where I regularly ate rice, chicken and/or pork for just $1.50 a plate!  Tanduay rum is popular in the Visayas, and costs just $1.50 a bottle.  I read that it’s getting so popular internationally that they are even putting a dent in Bacardi sales!  In the north they drink “Emperador”, and it’s about the same price.  These are all the favorite ingredients of those backpacking on a budget!

Culture / Food. Trek for hours to discover the last remaining tribal tattoo artist (who happens to be a 93 year old woman) in Kalinga.  Sleep in a  nipa hut and explore remnants of the Ifugao warrior culture up there while you’re at it. You’ll find nothing but smiles there today, but hundreds of years ago there were fierce headhunters seeking vengeance on rival clans.  You can journey to the beautiful “enchanted” island of Siquijor, which is said to be inhabited by witch doctors and practitioners of black magic. This stunning island is not that popular with local tourists for some reason;)

There are over 100 different languages / dialects in the Philippines, which probably evolved due to being spread out among the isolated islands of the archipelago.  Virtually everybody speaks English, so don’t expect much of a communication barrier. Going hand in hand with language are the different regional foods, which have probably evolved for the same reasons. There is a fiesta going on somewhere each day of the year.

San Miguel beer is quite good, and can often be found for under $1 USD a bottle!  It’s right up there with Manny Pacquiao in terms of national pride, and for good reason!

Nosebleed? Do You Need a Tissue?

* Sometimes it may seem like there is a communication barrier, and it is times like this when you might hear locals say that they have a “nosebleed”.  I was so baffled by this expression at first!  It turns out they joke that they have a “nosebleed” when a foreigner comes up to them and they feel put on the spot with their English (even though they can speak perfectly).  They are so nervous that they expect their nose to just start bleeding because of all the pressure in their head!  I hear conflicting reports, but I think the term may have originated with a famous comedy movie from the 90s. 

• City Nightlife / Shopping.  Yes, you read that correctly.  Manila and Cebu have been developed and gone through quite a transformation in recent years.  The economy in the Philippines is growing by leaps and bounds, and is projected to continue rocketing up over the next 35 years.  You can already find plenty of high-end shops, clubs, bars and restaurants…and plenty more are on the way.

• Safety.  It’s actually NOT dangerous – the big cities of Manila and Cebu have some crime, but no more than other well-traveled cities like Rio or Rome.  I never had any problems during my stay for a year.  Just be street-smart and don’t travel any farther south than Davao City in Mindanao if you really want to play it safe.  These areas (far below Davao) have had some political unrest and terrorist activity in the past.                                                                                  I suspect that the actual risk even in the far south is much lower than we’re led to believe, but I haven’t actually yet been, so don’t take my word for it!

• Hosts.  Filipinos are very welcoming (the more you get away from touristy areas, the more you will notice this).  You may be invited for dinner or to stay with people you meet along the way.  Don’t miss this opportunity to experience the hospitality and culture!  Members of the Couchsurfing travel community will be happy to learn that there are plenty of amazing hosts in Manila and Cebu. 

They often take their own backpacking trips through SE Asia, Australia, and Europe.  Other smaller cities around the Philippines are gaining more and more members all the time as well!  I recommend Naga and Legazpi in the Bicol region if you want to get off the beaten path. This region is rich in spicy, delicious food (spicy is not common in the country otherwise), and has some stunning natural attractions like the “world’s most perfect” cone volcano (Mt. Mayon) and pristine Caramoan beach.

• Wifi / Data Coverage.  You may not know this, but the Philippines is the “social media capital of the world”!  There are 100 million people in this country, and they are quite tech savvy – calling/texting/surfing the Internet very often.  This means you’re in luck if you need to get online with your computer while you’re there.
  

You can easily purchase a Globe Tattoo or Smart Bro USB stick and you will find signal almost EVERYWHERE. It may not always be fast, but I loved the convenience – even on a ferry boat with no land in sight!  Cost might be about $50 USD for the stick and a 30 days of use.

Reasons Why You SHOULDN’T Go To The Philippines:

You hate fun, and happy people who like to have it. 

You’re allergic to any of the following:

• Good times
  
• The sun
  
• Powdery white sand
• Crystal clear blue water
• Seafood that’s so fresh, it might just bite you back

Haha.  Get the point?  Go.  Now.  Word is spreading fast, and places like this don’t stay a secret for long.  Feels like just yesterday Laos was off limits to tourists; now it feels like it’s crawling with them.  

I’ll never forget being at Changi airport in Singapore and seeing the “It’s More Fun In The Philippines” video above for the first time.  It’s a MUST WATCH!

OK, OK, It Really IS Paradise!! So What About The Food??

The way to any traveler’s heart is through cheap, authentic local food.  Here’s your crash course in Filipino food!

On first glance upon arrival in Manila, the food options may seem disappointing.  There will be American fast food chains everywhere, and even some of the local food at the eateries has been westernized (in a bad way).  The good news is that you can find cheap traditional dishes if you just put a little effort into it.  I never had any problems eating street food in the country, but I do have a fairly “well-traveled” stomach. 

If I was coming for a month, I would want to get used to the food as soon as possible.  Just as in other countries, it might take a few days to adjust, but hopefully you will be free to experiment with your eating after that.  After all, it’s a huge part of the travel experience, don’t you think? 

“Safe” Foods For Picky Eaters

• Chicken Adobo (adobong manok) and rice – this may end up being the national dish soon.  You can find it everywhere, and I’d say it’s safe for even the pickiest eaters.  Pininyahang manok (pineapple chicken) is similar, and is also recommended if you come across it!

• Grilled Fish and Rice –There are many common varieties of fish readily available…tuna, bangus (milkfish)…etc.  It is commonly fried as well.

• Chicken soup (Tinola) – This is delicious, and fairly easy to find as well.  My mouth is watering just thinking about it. 

• Tocino and Tapsilog – These are very common pork dishes that are served with rice / egg and eaten for breakfast.  Tocino is sweet pork meat. 

• Pork (baboy) BBQ –  You can find this cooking on the streets each night around dinnertime.  Look for the plume of smoke and follow your nose!  Eat with rice.

• Halo-Halo – This dessert may look strange (it’s a combination of ice cream, preserves, shaved ice, and corn flakes), but I can assure you, on a hot day (which in the Philippines, it will be), it really hits the spot.  If you can find it served in a coconut, even better (buko halo-halo).  Masarap! (delicious).

•  Pandesal – This is a popular bread roll that is served in the mornings.  There is nothing like fresh, hot pandesal!

Related – She said she’d rather “starve to death” than eat Filipino food. This was my response.

Intermediate Bravery:

• Sinigang (tamarind soup made with pork, chicken, or fish) – To me this is quite tame and delicious…I almost want to include it in the “safe” category, but some people may find it too sour for their tastes. 

• Bulalo – Beef soup made with bone marrow.  Most of the time I enjoyed this dish, but once, in Sagada, it was so potent that I found it hard to stomach!

• Kinilaw na tuna – raw fish and vegetables in vinegar / calamansi (lime).  I didn’t see this too often, but I enjoyed it when I had the chance to eat it!

Pro Skills (Pinoy na Pinoy):

• Isaw (chicken intestines) – This seems to be well loved by most Filipinos, but I just don’t care for it.  It’s much better than the version I tried in Hong Kong, but still not my favorite. 

• Balut – This is the infamous partially-developed duck embryo that has been featured on adventurous eating shows for years.  Half fluid, half solid…sometimes with feathers.  They serve it in Vietnam also (trứng vịt lộn).  You crack the top with a spoon, put some salt on it, and drink the warm juice first.  Then you slowly peel the rest off the shell off and eat the remainder of it.  Fortunately this is served on dark street corners where you can’t easily see what you’re eating. 

It tastes good if you can get past the psychological issues – many Filipino friends of mine in Manila have never even tried it!  As for me, I didn’t travel half way around the world to not eat balut!  Haha.  I had it 3 times.  By the way, I didn’t post any photos, and you’re welcome.

• Tamilok (woodworm) – This huge “worm” is actually a mollusk that can be found in rotting mangroves on the island of Palawan.  From what I hear it tastes like an oyster.  Again, I suspect the psychology of eating a giant worm that you just pulled out of some rotting wood makes the experience much worse than it really is. 

• Dinuguan – This is a meat stew containing lungs, kidneys, intestines, ears, heart and snout.  it’s served in a rich, spicy dark gravy of pig blood, garlic, vinegar and chili.  Believe it or not, this one I loved!

At some point during your stay, you might as well give Filipino fast food a try and go to Jolibee!  You know what they say…when in Rome…

Earn “Pinoy Points” With These Three Phrases

Filipinos are already very welcoming to foreigners, but you can ensure a good impression by sprinkling these three phrases into conversation:

• Vegetables are known as “gulay” (goo-lai ) in Filipino, and you can score some serious points by saying “OH MY GULAY!” instead of “Oh my goodness”.  That is sure to put a smile on a local’s face!

• If you ever have a great interaction with a Filipino and feel the desire to “high five” them…put your hand up and say “APIR” (ah-peer)!!  This comes from the American G.I. days when the soldiers taught kids how to say “up here” while giving high fives.  It has been adopted as its own Filipino word now:)

• “Masarap” (mah-sah-rahp) means “delicious”, and I found it very useful to say to show gratitude wherever I was eating.

Planning Your Trip To The Philippines

Transportation

No, you can’t take a cheap bus to the other islands, but thankfully the country has a great budget airline called Cebu Pacific.  They say “it’s more fun in the Philippines”, and this airline proves it.  I once boarded at 7AM with Hip Hop music playing…I didn’t see it, but they are also famous for dancing flight attendants. 

Pay attention to the seat sales online (you can sign up for them), and you can score one-way tickets for as little as $7.50 USD (with taxes)!  I bought 2 tickets to Boracay from Manila for $25 with taxes.  I flew from Puerto Princesa to Cebu, from Cebu to Camiguin, and from Cebu to Manila all for just $12 per one way ticket.

You can also take relatively inexpensive ferry boats to many of the islands, and these can be beautiful, adventurous trips in their own right.  Just check the weather to make sure the seas won’t be too rough. 

Once you’re on the island, don’t hesitate to take a “jeepney” or a trike.  These are very common and inexpensive forms of local transportation.  For a real thrill you can ride “top load” in some parts of the country…it really IS more fun in the Philippines!

What should I Expect When I Arrive?

Escape To The Islands

For those based around Asia, you can get away with a quick trip to paradise.  For the rest of you, you will break my heart if you plan on spending any less than 2 weeks here – 1 month would be great. You need a bit of time to get over jet lag, and then some more time to adjust to the Filipino way of life.  Things move at a different pace, and you might find yourself frustrated at first …especially in Manila, where you’ll likely be flying in. 

Speaking of Manila, get out of there as soon as you can.  It has some sights I’d recommend (Intramuros, Rizal Park, U.P. Campus) if you are staying long term, but as a tourist with limited time, definitely get out and explore the rest of the county first.  Manila is very expensive and congested – not the best way to start your vacation. 

FYI:  The country isn’t known for scams, but the taxi drivers at the airport in Manila are notoriously bad about overcharging, and there’s not much you can do about it.  They know they can just find somebody else if you refuse to pay their “rate”.  It may be $7.50-$12.00 to get to your hotel, but you’ll have more luck getting drivers to use their meters once you leave the airport (normal rate from airport might be $3.00-$6.00.

When in Manila…

Another thing you might find shocking are the guards with giant guns all over the place – they protect most banks and government offices.  They usually have ear-to-ear smiles and are friendly as can be – don’t let them fool you into thinking it’s more dangerous than it is.  I just got used to it after a while.  Both Manila and Cebu have nice areas, but they also have seedier parts where there are red light districts.  Just a heads up. 

Like other parts of south east Asia, you will come face to face with poverty in the big cities.  What’s incredible to see is how the poor people outside of big cities (and even some inside) manage to smile and give, even when they have very little.   There are fishermen and farmers who are far removed from the treadmill of consumerism, and they find contentment in their simple, happy lives with friends and family.  I realized that these people were in fact quite wealthy when compared to the many ways our more “developed” societies are lacking.  It was a powerful realization.

Related: “What I REALLY Think of the Philippines“.

Weather / Tourist Seasons

The rainy season in most of the country is roughly from July to September or October.  This is also the low season where you can find better rates on accommodations.  Peak rates are Christmas, Easter (watch out for Holy Week!), and the Filipino summer months of April and May.  Remember, if places have vacancies, then you can try negotiating for a better price – especially if you are paying up front for a stay of 4 or more days.

Planning Your Itinerary

For a 2 Week Backpacking Trip

I’d say try to book a flight to either El Nido or Boracay a few hours after you land in Manila.  It could be cheaper and more scenic to fly to Puerto Princesa and take the 5 hour bus to El Nido…but you lose some time staying overnight in Puerto Princesa also. 

Related: El Nido – My Favorite Place on Earth!

If you’re looking for a well-developed beach to party on for a few days, choose Boracay instead of the more adventurous El Nido.  From either of these locations, I recommend flying next to the beautiful island of Bohol.  Here you should spend at least 3 days checking out the world-class beach resorts, the famous “Chocolate Hills, and the fascinating tarsier sanctuary.  Tarsiers are nocturnal, and have the largest eyes of any mammal – relative to their body weight.  From here I recommend flying back to Manila and catching a night bus up to the Banaue rice terraces. 

Make sure you ride “top load” on a jeepney for an unforgettable experience!  Spend 2 days there before continuing up to Sagada Mountain Province, where you can spend 2 or 3 days exploring the caves, famous “hanging coffins”, and beautiful Bomod Ok waterfall.  By then you should be able to take another overnight bus back to Manila and prepare for your flight home!  Wait…did you sing videoke somewhere along the way?  If not, start over!

The 2 two-week options I recommend are:

Manila>El Nido>Bohol>Manila>Banau>Sagada>Manila>Home

 and

Manila>Boracay>Bohol>Manila>Banau>Sagada>Manila>Home

For a 1 Month Backpacking Trip

If you have a full month, I recommend doing the exact same route, except consider adding a stop in Cebu City after El Nido or Boracay.  Try to time it so that you can catch the Cebu Booze Cruise, which is a blast.  You’ll find a great mix of locals and foreigners having a great time out on the water.  If you went to El Nido before, I recommend going to Bantayan Island in northern Cebu before continuing to Bohol.  Bantayan has perfect white sand beaches like Boracay, but it’s much less developed and much more relaxing. 

Related: Postcard-Perfect Bantayan Island

If you went to Boracay previously, I recommend skipping Bantayan and just going to Siquijor after Bohol.  It’s a few hours on the boat, but the “enchanted” island free of tourists is worth it.  Rent a motorbike and circle the entire island (don’t miss the enchanted Balete Tree).  Snorkeling at the marine sanctuary in front of Coco Grove Resort is recommended!  Then get back to Cebu and fly to Manila so you can board a bus to the Banaue Rice Terraces, except this time also spend a day or two hiking into the incredible Batad rice terraces.  Tip: Tapiya Falls is steep, but worth the effort! 

 Search for beautiful Philippine hotels below!

The 2 one-month routes I recommend are: 

Manila>El Nido>Cebu City>Bohol>Siquijor>Cebu City>Manila>Banau>Batad>Sagada>Manila>Home 

and  Manila>Boracay>Cebu City>Bantayan>Bohol>Cebu City>Manila>Banau>Batad>Sagada>Manila>Home

Something to consider if you’re a diver is substituting Coron for El Nido, and also making dive trips to Apo Island and Moalboal.  You might be able to accomplish this if you cut out the rice terraces and mountain provinces.  Another incredible experience would be flying to Legazpi City and traveling south down to Donsol to swim with the butandings (whale sharks).  I hear the experience is much better for the sharks there (as opposed to in Oslob, Cebu).  You can ride an ATV up beautiful Mt. Mayon while you’re in the area, too!

Other places on my wish list:  The Spanish colonial town of Vigan in Ilocos Sur, Caramoan in Bicol (the location of Survivor Philippines), Camotes, Moalboal, and swimming with Thresher sharks in Malapascua (all in Cebu). 

Hotels and Resorts

You can find everything from simple huts on the beach to 5 star resorts in the Philippines….no, it’s not just for backpackers. You can read reviews and check rates HERE (Agoda), or HERE (Booking.com)

Travel Tips and Etiquette

Rainy season or not, it will be hot and humid.  However, if you plan on going to Baguio, Sagada, or Banaue (or any of the mountain provinces), be prepared for cool weather.  You may even need a light jacket up there sometimes.  Something to keep in mind anywhere in the country – If you choose to take aircon buses, they are often FREEZING cold!

Don’t forget your rain gear, swimsuit, flip flops, umbrella, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and big smile!  

If you do happen to forget something at home, don’t worry, because you can buy just about any supplies you might need in bigger cities, and also anywhere tourists are present. 

Try to support businesses that are environmentally aware, and notify the authorities if you see something that concerns you.   Environmental education and regulation is lacking, so the ecosystem is under more and more strain as the number of tourists climbs each year.  Consider volunteering if you have the desire and time!

The Philippines will put a spell on you!  I promise, you’ll never forget it.

The post Travel: Why I Think The Philippines is SE Asia’s Next Backpacking Paradise appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

It’s not too well know outside the Philippines, but I hope my Caramoan Travel Guide will help convince international tourists (or locals who haven’t visited yet) to check this place out! I really did love it.

The Paradise That Just Might Have It All…

Caramoan is located in the province of Camarines Sur, in the Bicol region of the Philippines. It’s one of those places I always had a good feeling about…I just knew I was going to love it.  Well, when the team at Naga Excursions sent me an invitation to explore it, I jumped at the chance!

The Philippines is quite diverse…I love the beautiful beaches of Boracay, the rolling hillsides full of grazing cattle in Masbate, and the majestic limestone cliffs of El Nido. Somehow, Caramoan has all of that, but also the Bicolano food that I love so much! Spicy and coconut-infused…if you love the beaches and food in Thailand, you might want to check out uncrowded Caramoan instead.

Manlawi Island Sandbar – My Caramoan Travel Guide –

Manlawi Island had the most beautiful sandbar I’ve seen anywhere in the Philippines! We arrived just before noon, and within 1 hour, our boat was already on dry land! We had no choice but to wait until the tide came back up. Not a bad place to be stranded, though:) It was also fun to explore the rolling hills, Mangrove trees, and floating cottages nearby.

1st Stop on the Island Hopping Tour – Matukad Island

What a beautiful beach! Here you can snorkel, swim, or climb up a natural rock wall that leads to a hidden lagoon…legend has it that there is a lone bangus (milkfish) that guards the lagoon.

“Survivor Caramoan”

Did you know that Caramoan is where the TV show “Survivor” is filmed? Unfortunately, it makes visiting certain islands impossible much of the time. Some locals aren’t too happy about it, and I don’t blame them.

Trekking Through the Manapot River to Umang Cave

After relaxing and rock climbing on Matukad Island, our guide led us into the cool waters of the Manapot River. Our destination? Umang Cave, but we had to wade through the river to get there. You can touch the ground almost the whole way (unless you’re very short, I suppose). The cave is  pretty impressive, but just getting to it is half the fun!

The Breathtaking View and “Talking Rocks” of Pitogo Island

As the sun began it’s journey toward the sea, we stopped at fascinating Pitogo Island. Here you can hike up a grassy hill to a breathtaking 360 degree view of the islands. What’s truly fascinating about it are the “talking” rocks, though! The beach is made up of giant, smooth rocks (no sand), and as the waves crash onto the shore, it makes a loud sound unlike anything I’ve ever heard! Hopefully I’ll post a video sometime soon.

Sunset at Lahos Island

We stopped at this idyllic little island just in time for mother nature to put on a magical show for us. Yes, indeed there is something enchanting about a dramatic island-sunset in the Philippines – the perfect way to wrap up an island-hopping adventure in the sun.

Tugawe Cove Resort

What a beautiful place to unwind after island hopping! This private cove is a great place to kayak, snorkel, or swim (in the pool or the sea!). Even just getting to the resort was a blast, because we took a speedboat from the mainland. I think that was the first time I’ve ever been on one, and it’s a lot of fun!

Inspired Design

The bungalows get more and more beautiful and quaint as you continue up the hill. I’m a big fan of Frank Lloyd Wright’s architecture, and some of these bungalows were reminiscent of “Falling Water”.

The restaurant, game room, and pool are at the top of the hill, and as you can see, the views are spectacular! It is a fancy place, so I was actually surprised how reasonably priced the food and drinks were. Meals were quite good, and the staff was very attentive and friendly (I especially loved how they greeted us “marhay na hapon” – good afternoon in the Bicol dialect – when we arrived.

It’s billed as a 5-star resort, and while I don’t think it’s quite a 5-star resort by international standards, it is unquestionably beautiful. Guests have free use of the kayaks and snorkeling gear, and I took full advantage of that fact! Check the photos from these adventures further down below…

Incredible view from the pool, huh? If you ask the staff, they might let you see their resort mascot – a mischievous tropical bird called a hornbill. I think his name was Kevin, and I thought giving him such a human name was awesome.

Here you see what makes this resort so unique – it’s a beautiful cove that also has its own lagoon. Out in the water you can see how much coral there is to explore as you snorkel. The best views are in deeper water, so bring a life jacket and swim carefully!

Snorkeling in Tugawe Cove

Below are some photos I took while I snorkeled. As always, I used my Olympus TG-4 underwater camera. You can see quite a bit of fish if you are brave enough to venture out into deeper waters. The resort recommends that you stay within the cove, though. I agree….the waves and current quickly gets strong as you get further and further out.

Hotels in Caramoan (Tour Packages Often Included)

Tugawe Cove Resort – You can explore your options and book your unforgettable stay HERE

Casita Mia Bed and Breakfast – Excellent food and service. Not quite as fancy as Tugawe Cove, but a very good value. Explore options or book your stay HERE

Breeze and Waves Cottages – This is an excellent and affordable option. It’s also perfect for those who want to get further out and experience a bit of local life in Caramoan. You can explore and book a room HERE

More options HERE

Getting To Caramoan / Contact Info

If you want to visit Caramoan, contact Naga Excursions or Kaddlagan Tours. They took good care of me, but more importantly, they are committed to protecting and preserving these beautiful places for future generations.

Naga City can be reached by 1 hour flight from Manila, or overnight bus ride. From there you can now take a van or bus directly to the town of Caramoan. Please check the links above for more info.

Thanks so much to Alec and Naga Excursions, but also to team FlipTrip and fellow bloggers Traveling Light, The Lonely Travelogue, and The Pinay Solo Backpacker! We had a lot of fun together, and I can’t wait to return to Caramoan again someday!

– Nathan Allen

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The post Life Goals: Island-Hopping in Caramoan, Philippines appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.