Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Tour Departs By Boat From Palompon Town

Due to the nature of my trip (weather…possible motorbike breakdowns…etc), unfortunately I couldn’t inform the tour company exactly when I would be there. I was impressed, because even at the last minute, they were able to throw an overnight camping trip together for me. What a dream come true!

I met my guide, Mrs. Warblitz at the Palompon port early the next morning. It was a bit cloudy, so I hoped the weather would clear for nice pictures.

It was only about a 45 minute boat trip, and before I knew it, I was already exploring the tiny island! I came across the rocky beach pictured above, and also a small island chapel...as well as a tree house on the far end. I heard that it’s private property, unfortunately.

I took a few photos and made some new friends…there were some tourist groups from the Philippines, and quite a large one from China. Soon, the clouds began to part, and I was thrilled to see the sun shine down on our little island paradise…

A Picture-Perfect White Sandbar

The tide was starting to come in by the time the sun came out…so the sandbar was slowly submerged by the sea. As you can see here, there is a native-style lifeguard tower, and the lifeguard is constantly kept busy chasing after tourists who try to cross the sandbar at high tide (you’re only allowed to cross when the sandbar is exposed).

There is a small mound of sand at the end of the sandbar…it becomes its own little island at high tide, too. It’s incredibly beautiful.

Blessed by powdery white sand and the shade of plenty of coconut trees, Kalanggaman island truly is a gem in the pacific. “Langgam” means “bird” in the local dialect, and the island gets that name from its shape, when viewed from above.

I climbed up in the nipa hut lifeguard tower for a better view of the sandbar.

The lifeguards were friendly, and I interviewed them a bit as they kept watch on the beach. Below is Nick, who came to Palompon because he has family here. With all the discipline of a military man, I had no doubt that Nick and the guys would keep the island safe throughout the night.

Some tourists recognized me on the beach, and requested a photo. Thanks for sending me the picture, Mrs. Suzette!

Overnight Camping on the Island

Here I am in my own little “bahay kubo”, or native hut. Made from bamboo and nipa, these are iconic in the Philippines. I just relaxed and got some reading done in my hammock. Not a bad life!

As you can see below, the tour company took good care of me. My trip was so last minute that they were not able to include an overnight tour guide. For me this was actually ideal…I love being on my own to take photos and explore. They introduced me to the island guards and the caretaker, and left me with all the supplies I could ever need…

I had a tent, a hammock, rain gear, coffee, tea, fresh vegetables, and an assortment of Filipino foods to last many meals. I even had nachos and beer…and there was enough food to share with new friends, which is the Filipino way. The team set up a beautiful campsite before departing the island. The boat would return to pick me up in the morning.

Being left on my own beautiful tropical island…this really is the kind of adventure I’ve always dreamed of. Guess what?  It gets better…

Snorkeling Off The Beach

A local told me where I might find some corals near the beach. You’ll have to ask for specifics once you’re there. In the fading afternoon light, I managed to get some underwater photography done. Here is a small school of colorful fish above the corals.

I took the these photos with my Olympus TG-5, The Amazon link is HERE. 

There were some beautiful flower-type coral gardens, with both hard and soft corals.

I also spotted a puffer fish, a large lionfish, and a beautiful giant clam. Not bad for an island which isn’t even known for its snorkeling! Something I’ll never forget is one of the young guards who wanted to go snorkeling with me, to make sure I was safe out there.

It was actually his first time using a snorkel & mask to see underwater! He was totally blown away, and I loved watching him experience it for the first time.

TIPS: Always wear a life vest, and do not swim or snorkel near the actual sandbar. The lifeguards told me the current is incredibly strong there. Also, please apply “reef safe” sunblock if you use it, as the chemical “oxybenzone” can kill or damage the coral reefs. I think Banana Boat for kids may be OK.

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Sunset on the Sandbar

By sunset, the tide had gone back down, and it was safe for us to walk along the sandbar and take photos. I can imagine the sunsets get even better than this on less cloudy days, too. Just magical.

The local guys and I listened to reggae music (I brought a tiny speaker) as we enjoyed the prepared food. Around 9pm they retired to the other end of the island, and I had the whole sandbar and coconut grove to myself. Perfect weather to sleep outside…so peaceful. I’ll never forget it.

How To Get To Kalanggaman

The most convenient way might be to take a cheap promo flight to Tacloban from Manila or Cebu, then join Leyte Gulf Travel and Tours. They provide vans for the 2-3 hour trip, and of course the boat and all your supplies.

Where to Stay

Overnight camping was pretty epic, but you can also stay in Palompon Town. I stayed at Asayas Pension Plaza…it was OK, but they don’t have online reservations.  Mrs. Warblitz or Mrs Ludette @ Leyte Gulf can make some good hotel recommendations for you if you need.

Again, many thanks to the team for providing this incredible experience! I’m not usually a “tours” kind of guy, but after experiencing everything they have to offer, I can see why it’s worth the extra money.  You can just enjoy your vacation…without the stress of planning so many things. They were super nice, and most importantly – professional.

For me, Kalanggaman Island is just incredible – not too developed or crowded…with a nice white-sand beach and plenty of shady coconut trees. Add to that friendly locals, and you’ve got a perfect recipe for paradise.

Really, this island is pure eye candy.

Enjoy, and be sure to check out my other Leyte posts!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

More Adventures in Leyte, Philippines

My motorbike tour of Leyte Province

Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving in Padre Burgos

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Have something to add? Feel free to leave a comment…

The post KALANGGAMAN ISLAND: The Best Beach in the Philippines? appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

I was on Siargao island, one of the Philippines’ epic surf spots. A tall, weathered traveler sat across from me at a roadside eatery. As is so much easier when you’re traveling solo, I struck up a conversation with him.

I learned he was from Montreal…and had come to the Philippines for an ancient meditation course called Vipassana. I had heard about this “silent retreat” before, and I plied him for more information. It was intriguing.

I learned that volunteers run Vipassana Philippines.  It’s donation based, and therefor doesn’t cost anything to attend. This model helps keep the experience consistent and pure. Aside from this, he was very hesitant to share details about the experience. It was too intimate and personal, and besides, he pointed out that each person’s path will be unique.

After researching it a bit more, I fired off an email to the woman organizing the Vipassana Manila chapter. I was in luck – there were still a few openings.

Can I Even Handle Vipassana?

However, was I SURE I was ready to commit to this? She was asking the same question. People call this a “Silent Retreat”, but “retreat” might not be the best word for it. This ain’t no “Eat Pray Love”…it’s hardcore work. Buddha actually started the Vipassana technique thousands of years ago.

It is completely secular and non religious… practiced by people of all faiths. With Vipassana, students become more in tune with their bodies. One of the ultimate goals is to eliminate suffering.

Healing Old Wounds

Well, I wouldn’t exactly say I was suffering. However, I had recently made the news in the Philippines. This was because a small province declared me “persona non grata” in their region.

Strange but true – Yes, this actually happened

However, I received a LOT of support from Filipinos who knew they weren’t getting the full story. They were right. For me, the hardest part was keeping the truth inside until I left the country. I didn’t feel safe. I did this for about a year while I continued promoting tourism.

Well it took a toll on me. I worried that if I didn’t do something about it, I might end up resenting a country and culture that I loved. Perhaps a Vipassana Philippines course would do the trick.

Aside from all that, as a writer and explorer, I was just curious about the experience in general. I love pushing my mind and body to the limits….I always have.

So, in the sweltering summer, our group met in Manila and boarded a bus for Cavite, about 45 minutes south. We were dropped off on the side of the road, then loaded into “tricycles” – which are a bit like “tuk tuks” in Thailand.

Enter The Vipassana Philippines “Compound”

While Quezon is considered the “Manila area”, this location was actually quite rural. The best word to describe the place we arrived is a “compound”. When they swung the giant gate open and let us in, I half expected it to slam shut and see armed, masked men jump out of the bushes to capture us.

I wasn’t ready to make another appearance in the media – this time as a kidnap for ransom victim.

OK, also…the “jungle” part – it’s a bit of a stretch, These are the tropics, but this location’s not exactly a jungle. The Vipassana Philippines property actually appeared a bit sparse, open and dry. With the exception of the large Indian mango trees that provided shade, it actually reminded me of the California countryside.

Our group joined another in a simple “meeting hall”…basically a pole frame with giant tarps stretched over it. We were encouraged to meet and communicate as much as possible before “noble silence” commenced.

These Vipassana students had come from all over the world…the U.S., Canada, Russia, Spain, Taiwan, China, and Africa. I would say about 25% were Filipinos.

Signing a Waiver – The Shape of Things To Come

We signed waivers and surrendered our phones. This was getting real. They screen students pretty carefully, and it almost seemed like they were trying to convince us not to take the course. This is because the Vipassana experience can be quite intense.

This kind of silent retreat can shock the system more than people realize. Most people have never gone days without Internet, or just being able to read, write, or speak. People with a history of mental disorders might find the deafening silence to be too much.

As even I would find out, being alone with your thoughts (and with nothing to do) can become torture eventually. There is no escape.

Once you commit to a Vipassana course (10 days is already the short version!), they try very hard to keep you from giving up on it. They firmly believe that in order to truly reap the benefits, one must complete all the meditation steps in the 11 day period.

Waking Up Before Sunrise

I’m not exactly a morning person, and my mental state declines rapidly when I get hungry. Perhaps I have low blood sugar? Anyway, I learned we would be waking up at 4AM each morning. All meals at the silent retreat are vegetarian, but there is no dinner served. Ever. They’re not just trying to torture you, it’s actually a strategic part of the program.

We were to sleep in a large trailer, on simple cots separated by thin curtains. There is no breeze through the room, and only some of the cots have fans overhead. I chose mine a bit late, and was lucky to find a cot with a fan that reached me at least some of the time.

Men and women are kept apart…except during the actual course instruction, when they share opposite sides of the room.

Let The Silent Meditation Begin

Our daily Vipassana meditation would take place in what seemed like an oversized metal shipping container. It had one small wall fan on each end.

There was no going back now. I was determined to see this through. After our last dinner for 10 days, we headed to the meditation hall for the course intro and overview. After this, “noble silence” began. We could not communicate with each other in any way…be it verbally, with hand gestures, or any kind of eye contact.

I thought it would be too hot to sleep that first night, but somehow I was OK. At 4AM, a large bell (gong?) sounded. We were to report to the meditation hall right away. Waiting to eat breakfast was a challenge for me, especially considering that we were not fed dinner the previous night. We were required to meditate a few hours each morning – only then could we eat breakfast.

(By the way, if you’re traveling to the Philippines, I recommend these hotel options HERE)

As far as I know, all Vipassana courses are led by video on a projector. An older Indian man named “Goenka” leads you through the meditations. When he was alive, he taught these courses in person. At this point, everything was so new to me that it was easy to stay focused. I wasn’t even particularly hungry. I was amazed.

What is Vipassana Meditation Like?

I won’t go into much detail about the actual meditation itself. You can experience Vipassana Philippines on your own if you’d like.

However, I will just say that it’s not the “spiritual” type you may have in mind. You are probably not going to enter some kind of hypnotic trance and have an out of body experience or something. (He does some light chanting in an ancient language, but it is not religious or spiritual in nature. Only to help you stay focused.)

Vipassana is basically just a series of sensory exercises that help you become aware of your body, and how it reacts to the world around you.

Ideally, it keeps you focused on the present moment, so your mind doesn’t start to wander and worry about the future or the past. Goenka says our mind is like an untrained beast, and Vipassana is a tool we can use to tame it.

Did I Just Join a Cult?

So let’s recap. Here I am in a tropical compound, in what seems like the middle of nowhere. I’m following every word and instruction…chanting “in tongues” with a room full of sweaty fanatics (for all I know). All eyes fixated on our “leader” – a mysterious man in a grainy old video.

Haha yes, to those who don’t know better, it really would seem like I had just joined a cult…and there I was, “drinking the kool aid” along with everybody else.

(continued below, but I’d be honored if you follow along with me)

Eating Vegetarian Meals – In Complete Silence

I think it was 6AM when the breakfast bell rang. We lined up for food, then sat across from each other while we ate in complete silence. Eye contact was a no no…and it was all quite awkward.  We used our original seats and tables for the entire course.

The food…it was quite good! I didn’t miss eating meat at all. I had been eating heavy, oily food in Manila prior to this, so these light, healthy dishes were much appreciated. My compliments to the Vipassana Philippines chefs! My very first silent retreat was off to a good start, I thought.

Fighting The Urge To Flee

We kept busy “doing nothing”…sitting down meditating on cushions literally 10 hours each day. During our “free time”, we could walk around the property. However, most of it was off limits, with a rope tied to mark the boundary.

When we were able to speak on arrival, I heard stories of students walking too far out, and then finding the temptation to escape was just too great. They ran for it, and abandoned the course. I think that’s why they had it roped off.

You can start to go a bit mad out there…you realize just how preoccupied and busy we keep ourselves in our daily lives. When you strip away everything you use to distract yourself from things you don’t want to think about, it gets pretty real.

You have no screens of any kind, no electronics, no games, and no books. No snacks allowed. Rosaries and other religious items, either.

You shouldn’t move too quickly…exercise is out of the question. Not even a brisk walk. All focus should be on the Vipassana techniques.

Zombies in the Yard

I mention “zombies” because we ended up staring vacantly into space, trying to avoid looking at each other. It was awkward because we were always so close together. 

I remember looking out the small window in our room, seeing all these bodies scattered in the yard. They just wandered back and forth aimlessly, staring at the ground or the sky. Looked like a total cliche zombie movie scene.

My Unexpected Challenge

The first 2 or 3 days of Vipassana were challenging, but not for reasons you might think. My problem was that I had figured out these meditation techniques on my own, many years prior to this experience. Not exactly, but I had learned how to become more in tune with my body, and those experiences made learning these techniques much, much easier.

Less than halfway through the first day, I was quite comfortable…and ready to move on to the next step. The problem was that most people had not learned these techniques previously, and the course needed to progress slowly for their sake. Totally understandable.

However, I was already going full steam ahead. I had to repeat the same, basic exercise over…and over…and over….

After 2 or 3 days I thought for sure we would be ready for the next big step. As it turned out, we weren’t. Don’t get me wrong…we did move on, but to me it was basically just a another baby step. The real struggle for me was realizing then that this whole course would progress at a snail’s pace, and I would spend 7 more days here like this.

My Real Test of Patience

Knowing what needed to be done (and how to do it) became a form of torture for me. I couldn’t help but wonder if this was the true test of patience I was here for.

I would open my eyes and peek at all the fortunate souls meditating around me. How I envied them…they had a clearly defined goal – something to work towards. Well I guess I did, too….to make it to the end of this glacial course without going completely bonkers.

Over the next few days, we tried our best to adjust to life at Vipassana Philippines. Not having wifi or my phone wasn’t as difficult as I thought! Still, I’m not going to lie….I’m a writer, and I had a TON of time to sit and think out there. I had so many ideas for future goals and projects; the hardest part was not being able to simply write them down!

I considered finding a hidden spot and writing notes in the dirt…but that would technically be cheating. I began to work on mental repetition exercises, hoping I could burn these thoughts into my aging mind – and do something about them once I was back out in the real world.

There is No Escape…From Yourself

Each day dragged on…and I’ll never forget the plastic red chair. On our free time, most of us sat on plastic stools at the meal tables.  However, there was one plastic red chair with a comfortable backrest.

That chair became our coveted prize…the lucky ones were able to claim it early and sit under the shade of the mango tree. Even luckier if you were able to watch the pair of colorful Kingfisher birds that called those trees home.

Yes, any change in routine becomes a godsend during a silent retreat. For example, even a bowel movement becomes a welcomed and exciting event!

Students All In It Together

If there was one thing that helped me get through this experience, it was knowing that I wasn’t alone. You could see the struggle in everybody’s face. There is no way around it – these Vipassana courses are hard work…especially in this location. The heat and humidity are just brutal. If you’re one to believe in the benefits of “sweating out the toxins”, you’re in luck.

You’ll sweat like a beast, so drink a lot of water to stay hydrated.

Vipassana Philippines is like hot yoga…minus the yoga…and you do it all day long.

Honestly, seeing how miserable everybody looked began to take a toll on me. I began to wonder if I should really be here…if I really belonged. Many of these people seemed damaged…jaded. Broken. Was I one of them?

A Crude Symphony

As if subconsciously rebelling against our inability to make a sound, our tent cabin was a symphony of snoring, belching, and nuclear – grade flatulence each night.

As the days went on, I began to grow annoyed with people around me, and I’m sure others were feeling the same way. Familiar faces started to disappear…never to reemerge. I wondered how they convinced the staff to free them from the course…or did something sinister happen to them?? I kid, they’re fine.

The Light at the End of the Mediation Tunnel

By the last day at Vipassana Philippines, I think many of us were at the end of our rope. You have no idea how painful it is to simply sit in one position for hours and hours. What a test of patience and determination!

As if to taunt us, the last series of instruction and chanting seemed to carry on forever. However, when “noble silence” finally ended, something miraculous happened.

We started talking to each other.

We shared stories about our struggles during course days, and laughed about the “bodily function orchestra” which put on free shows each night.

I imagined that when the final Vipassana bell rang, we would all avoid each other and get out of there as soon as possible. Instead, we ended up sticking around…and even bonding. The people who annoyed me the most, the ones who always seemed to be in the way, or looked the most miserable…they were the ones who laughed the hardest with me.

It was also amusing to realize they were thinking the same things about me. They weren’t so unhappy, damaged, or broken after all.

The smiles returned.

We felt accomplished…we had seen battle together. After becoming fast friends, we exchanged contact information.

The Truth About Vipassana Philippines

Yes, I struggled getting through this silent retreat – and I joke about how cult like it seems from the outside. No, it’s not a cult, and I’m quite glad I saw it through to the end.

I probably wouldn’t do the Vipassana Philippines course again, but I do believe these techniques are useful. Most people will likely see the benefits, assuming they have the determination and willpower to push through it.

How It Helps: Benefits of Vipassana Meditation

According to students and teachers, Vipassana meditation can help ease suffering from the following conditions:

• Depression
• Anxiety
• Despair
• Guilt
• Addiction
• Pain

“Unplugging” With Vipassana

Vipassana meditation is also good for those who want to “unplug” from technology – and experience the world (and themselves) in an entirely new way. You’ll hear many testimonials before and after the course, and there is a reason that many people keep returning year after year.

One other thing: I should mention that the Vipassana Philippines location seems to be temporary. Personally, pushing my mind and body to extremes was exactly what I hoped for, but I think most other Vipassana locations are more comfortable and established.

Hopefully Manila will get a permanent location soon. It all depends on donations by former students and teachers.

Speaking of which, I’d like to thank the dedicated staff. Their cooking and hospitality was wonderful. Also, (I’m sorry if this disappoints you) the image at the top of the page isn’t from the silent retreat. The property looks a bit like that, though. A tiny bit. Haha.

What an experience…one I’ll never forget.

Website: Vipassana Philippines – Silent Retreat in Quezon (Just outside Manila)

For the main international Website: Dhamma Vipassana

(Again, if you’re traveling to the Philippines, I recommend these hotel options HERE)

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

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The post Vipassana: How I spent 10 Days of Silence in a Philippine Jungle appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

Words & Photos by Nathan Allen

Arranging a tour is easy, because you will receive many offers as you walk around the main town of General Luna.

If you do surf, don’t forget you can bring your board and enjoy some reef breaks during your trip! Just let your tour guide know that you would like to surf beforehand. This tour is great for taking photos…though it’s probably better if you bring an underwater camera. As a photographer, I prefer the Olympus TG4 over the Go Pro. I used it to take most of these island photos.

Naked Island – First Stop on the Tour

As you can see, there isn’t much to “Naked” Island. It’s still beautiful, though. You probably won’t spend too much time here, but It is a nice spot to swim. If you want to snorkel, there are some decent corals the tour guide can bring you to nearby.

Daku Island (My Favorite)

There are many reasons that Daku Island was the highlight of my tour…mainly, it’s because of the quality of the beach. Covered in powdery white sand, this is definitely the best place to relax on the beach or swim. If you bring fresh fish from the market, you can have it cooked for a fee here. Don’t forget to order a fresh coconut, too!

Daku Island in photos: 1. Beach huts & coconut trees 2. Local dogs playing in the sand 3. Small waves splashing the shore

4. Local man carrying nipa on the beach 5. View of the beach and huts from out at sea 6. Beach bungalow provides shade in the hot sun 

“Daku” means large in the local language, and it is by far the largest of the islands on the tour. There are some nipa huts available to rent overnight, so if you’re adventurous, you can arrange to be picked up in the morning. The huts are about $7.50USD from what I remember, and face the beach and sunset. Next time!

Guyam Island

This was the final stop on my tour. I love how this tiny island looks as you approach it by boat – the quintessential “island in the sun”. However, I did not enjoy actually being on the island as much as I did Daku. The sand is more course, and the beach is not quite as nice. If possible, I might ask if your tour guide is willing to go to Guyam island first, then Naked, then finish up at Daku for sunset.

Guyam Island in photos: 1. Perfect tiny island view from boat 2. German tourists & our guide in the boat

3. My feet – Relaxing in the sun on the boat 4. Strip of brilliant turquoise water out at sea 5. Circular beach of Guyam Island

I did enjoy putting my hammock up on Daku island – there are plenty of coconut trees if you want to bring yours. Half the island is a beach, and the other half is covered in rock, as you can see below. There are no facilities or residences on this island, but I think there might be a caretaker.

More Siargao Island-Hopping Tips

Your hotel probably offers tours, but the best place to arrange a cheap tour is in General Luna. There will be many touts offering as you walk around. I think it should cost about 1,500 pesos ($35USD) for 2-8 people. Your tour will depart from General Luna early in the morning, and that is also the best place to buy supplies for lunch at the market. Your guide can help with that.

If you want to snorkel, make sure you arrange the rental with the guide before you leave. Don’t forget plenty of water, and reef-safe sunblock!

Hope you Enjoy it as much as I did!

You can browse Siargao hotels on booking.com HERE , or if you prefer Agoda, HERE

Check out my full Siargao post HERE

– Nathan Allen

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share the island love!

Like my page to follow along with me:)  – Nathan

Related Blogs:

Sohoton Cove, Surigao – The “El Nido” of the Southern Philippines?

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

Have a question or comment? Let me know!

The post Island Hopping in Siargao, Philippines – A Must See! appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Touring Leyte’s WWII history has always been on my bucket list. While visiting some friends in Singapore, they asked what my next trip might be. I told them it could be Leyte, but I had no real plans for it. Well, the power of suggestion is strong…and I do believe that “The universe conspires to help the dreamer”.

The next day I was hit with the urge to check flights. Boom. Promo flights, both to the Philippines, and also to Tacloban from Cebu. As we say back in California:

It’s on like Donkey Kong.

Before I knew it, I had reached out to my readers and lined up a pretty incredible trip, including a super nice motorbike (courtesy of  Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban). If you’re wondering, Leyte is a huge island province in the southern Philippines – one of the largest, I believe.

Time For the Open Road…On My Way To Kananga

I was on a mission to get to Palompon, the jump off point to beautiful Kalanggaman island. I zipped through the towns of Palo, Tunga, and quite a colorful fiesta in Carigara. Normally I would stop and enjoy the festivities, but I had an island tour lined up, so I had to push on.  I started winding up the beautiful mountain roads outside town, and noticed the air cooling a bit.

Soon, I headed over the pass and made my way down into a plain of lush, green rice fields.

These are the rice paddies along the highway in Kananga. Knowing that I was making good time, I decided to get off the bike and take some landscape pictures. As you can see my motorbike was quite customized, including a nice windshield (although I’m so tall…my head popped over the top! Haha.)

Kananga Parish Church

There is a similar looking church in Palo, but I was in a hurry when I rode passed it (plus the sky was cloudy there). I’m quite picky about the skies and colors in my photos. Anyhow, I was thrilled to see this beautiful alternative on my way through Kananga.

(There was a actually a 6.5 magnitude earthquake that happened as I was riding the motorbike out of Tacloban. I didn’t even realize. Sadly, a building collapsed in Kananga. One person died, but fortunately, all the others were rescued.)

Palompon Town, and San Juan Beach

I arrived in the (surprisingly) bustling town of Palompon just before sunset. I asked a local where a good place to photograph was, and they pointed me to San Juan Beach. By the time I found it, the light was really fading. Still had enough time to chat with friendly beachgoers and snap some photos, though.

I always love being on the beach at this time in the Philippines. You can find kids playing in the water while their fishermen fathers bring in the boats. Yes, island smiles abound when things finally cool off each day.

I said goodby to the surfers and skimboarders, and made my way back to Asayas Pension Plaza, where I ended up staying the night.

Funny how my life works, this place was recommended to me, and when I walked in the front door, I noticed old cameras and photography themed decor all over the room! The owner is Mr. Juanito D. Asaya, a renowned photographer who even snapped photos of former President Marcos water skiing back in the 70s. He even had an old Ricoh SLR on the shelf – the same brand I use today.

 (Continued below, but I do hope you’ll follow along with me)

Coastal Fishing Village of Ipil (Palompon)

The next morning I set out to explore Palompon town a bit. I became fascinated by this “floating” native village on stilts in the water. I asked some local kids how to go there, but I think they were too shy to respond. However, as I was walking away a boy crossing the street told me he would take me there.

Turns out he actually lived there, so he knew it well!

His name was Zar, and really was a bright kid. I was so grateful for his impromptu tour, though I was a bit worried that my excess weight might crack the bamboo walkways between houses! he looked worried, too. Haha…I’m sure he never saw somebody my size trying to navigate these elevated paths.

As for the local residents, they could practically walk these precarious planks and pathways with their eyes closed. It’s just an everyday part of life.

Anyhow, it was a fascinating place to document, and I appreciated his help very much. I hope somehow he might read this someday.

The next morning I embarked on my incredible overnight camping trip to Kalanggaman Island, but you can find the link for that story at the end of this post:)

The Road To Southern Leyte

The long trip had wiggled loose a small bolt on my tailpipe, and it began to rattle loudly as I rode. Luckily I noticed a huge Yamaha dealer as I passed through Ormoc City, and they replaced it at no cost. Very nice! I was in a hurry to make it all the way to Padre Burgos in the far south, so I didn’t have time to see more of Ormoc. As I left town, the road really opened up, and traffic started moving FAST.

Before I knew it, I had passed the beautiful coastline of Inopacan (which I vowed to come back and visit someday), and I arrived in the busy town of Maasin. I know this means “very salty” in Filipino, but I’m not sure if it means the same thing here. I also learned that Maasin is the birthplace of current president, Rodrigo Duterte. I always assumed he was born in Davao!

Sunburnt and exhausted, I had a very late lunch in Maasin and then continued to the Macrohon area, where I took this photo of a tree lined street. At least, I think it was the Macrohon area….in any case, it was an enchanting section of highway.

People in Leyte so far had been incredible warm and friendly, but for some reason, around this small section of road, I got some pretty odd looks from the locals. I couldn’t help but wonder if they had a particularly bad experience with a foreigner in the past here. In any case, soon enough, I finally made it to Padre Burgos. The good vibes resumed. The link to my experience @ Peter’s Dive Resort can be found at the end of this post…

After 2 amazing days of snorkeling / diving with new friends, I got back on the bike and rode up the coast to Sogod, where I snapped these photos from a bridge over the Hipgasan river (I think?). Again, I was sunburnt and famished (riding for countless hours in the tropical sun really takes a toll on you). I stopped for lunch at a friendly eatery near the Sogod Public Market.

Then I traveled to a remote part of St. Bernard, where there was a crowd of people gathered. Noticing a beautiful mountain landscape above their village, I pulled the bike over to take a picture.

I assumed the crowd was waiting along the road for a bus, but actually there was a massive neighborhood brawl. It sounded really serious, with a lot of screaming and commotion, but the guys next to me were just laughing. They looked at me and said “Don’t worry, they’re just drunk.”

Like an idiot, I had assumed I could make it all the way from Padre Burgos up to Tacloban in one day. This was a pipe dream…while beautiful, the road was far more windy and slow going than I anticipated. I pushed as hard as I could in the fading light, but was ready to eat dinner and pass out by the time I reached Hinundayan.

 (If you’re curious about Leyte hotels, you can check them out below)

I forgot to mention that this whole trip was pitch black once the sun went down, because the earthquake knocked out power all over Leyte. Riding at night in the Philippines is stressful and dangerous (road hazards).  A local pointed me to Julie’s Lodge, where I found a very warm and welcoming Julie + caretaker.

Her daughters and sons are working all over the world, such a fascinating story! Very kind people, and definitely an affordable place to stop along the way.

An American Peace Corps volunteer at the dive resort had told me about a fish sanctuary further up the road…I told him I didn’t have time to visit it, as I was planning to go all the way to Tacloban that day. Well, here I was with some time…after being forced to break the trip up.

When Mrs. Julie told me I should stop by there on the way too, I considered it a sign. I readied my snorkel and mask, and made my way up the rustic dirt road through the village.

Snorkeling @ Ambao / Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

Wow, I guess this was pretty meant to be! There’s not a lot of coral right off the dock where I snorkeled, but there are SO MANY fish. The caretaker was feeding them with bread that I had purchased from him, so I guess that explains the feeding frenzy. Haha.

It’s surreal being in the water with all these fish.  Similar to experiences I had at Juag Lagoon in Sorsogon, I suppose. If you’re wondering, I took these with my Olympus TG-5 (That link is for Lazada, Asia). The Amazon link is HERE.

Calagitan Fish Sanctuary

You’re basically just snorkeling along the edge of a cement wall, but there is a tiny coral growth there I found to photograph. It may be man made, but it’s worth it to see all these beautiful fish. Calagitan Fish Sanctuary is located in Ingan, Hinundayan, and has a 10 or 20 peso entry fee (I can’t remember, but it was cheap. You can pay 10 pesos for bread to feed them as well.)

The guys there were super nice, we shared fresh-caught octopus and rice for lunch, and I gave them a bit of extra money before continuing north. If you go, don’t forget to bring your own mask and snorkel.

Silago / Abuyog Boundary Creek

As I left the coast and started heading up into the mountains, the landscape began to change. When I came across a picturesque bridge with a small waterfall, I had to stop the bike and relax for a while. I really fell in love with this cool, creek canyon.

Just a rocky, babbling brook meandering through a lush jungle of ferns. I could have stayed there all day.

I came down from the mountains and felt the HEAT of the valley. There were some beautiful rice fields in the villages around Abuyog. These look they have been planted fairly recently, but I’m no expert. People here also seemed a bit wary of me, but Leyte Regional Prison is located way out here, so maybe they’re just wary of strangers in case they’re escapees. Do I look like one? Haha.

After this, the road opened up again, and I practically flew all the way back to Tacloban.

C’est fini.

Leyte Hotels

You can browse hotels with review on Agoda HERE

If you prefer Booking.com, you can click HERE

How To Get To Leyte

You can find super cheap Cebu Pacific promo flights to Tacloban or Ormoc City (I paid about $15 each!), but international flights must stop through larger cities like Manila or Cebu. If you fly to Tacloban, you can pick up a motorbike or car near the airport and tour the area yourself. As a photographer, this is the only option for me. I’ll never forget this trip.

Again, big thanks to Rhoel @ Haven’s Rentals in Tacloban. My trip went off without a hitch because I had a solid, reliable bike. Rhoel’s an awesome guy, too. What an incredible experience Leyte was – overall, one of my favorite regions in the Philippines now. I love the history, I love the people, I love the food, and I love the countryside.

That’s a lot of love.

Thanks for taking such good care of me, Leyte.

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

Related Links

Stunning Kalanggaman Island & Sandbar

My Tacloban City & Restaurant Tour

Snorkeling & Diving With Peter’s Dive Resort, Southern Leyte

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By Nathan Allen

It’s quite surprising that I haven’t been to Bali yet, considering all the places I have been, and how much I have always wanted to explore the fascinating sights, sounds and tastes of Indonesia.

When I ask hardcore travelers where they encountered the most warm and friendly people in the world, Indonesia is always up there near the top (right alongside the Philippines, which I have been fortunate to explore quite a bit).

Yes, the hospitality of the locals is legendary, but what else about Bali makes me want to pack my bags and go?

Traditional Balinese Culture

This is the stuff adventurer dreams are made of–I imagine myself trekking through dense, steamy  jungles…with curious parrots and monkeys keeping a watchful eye on me from above.

Suddenly I reach a clearing, and am stunned to unearth some ancient carvings and ruins…

Suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, I see some shadowy figures slip through the trees. Before I know it, they emerge from the thick vines. I am surrounded. With my hands up, I try to communicate that I come in peace…progress is slow going, but eventually they realize I pose no threat. They warm up to me.

Before I know it, we are back in their village, where we begin the process of bridging two very contrasting cultures…OK, OK…so I let my imagination run wild a bit. Travelers are quite unlikely to have an experience like this in this day and age, but a boy can dream, can’t he?  Haha.

Even though the island is quite developed and touristy, from what I’ve read, there is still plenty of rich culture and heritage to explore in Bali.

The Temples

I can’t wait to photograph and explore all the temples! Some that come highly recommended: Tanah Lot, Uluwatu Temple, Goa Gajah, and Ulun Danu Beratan Temple (Pictured here).

Do keep in mind that proper attire (sarong & sash) are usually required. These can be rented or supplied with a small donation.

Balinese Food & Drink

Like many people,  my desire for a trip to Bali was re-stoked by watching TV host and chef Anthony Bourdain fall in love with the island. I already know I love Indonesian food, with staples such as nasi goreng (stir fried rice with eggs, prawns, chilis, and vegetables) and mee goreng (the same, but with spicy noodles instead of rice).

However, I’m excited to try some Balinese specialties, such as nasi campur Bali (mixed rice) and betutu, which is a roasted poultry dish with spices.

Also on my menu is kopi Bali (local coffee), and brem, which is a Balinese version of the rice wine that is characteristic of much of Asia. I imagine these two are similar to “Barako” Coffee and “Tapuy” wine, which are their Philippine counterparts, respectively. 

The Beaches…and the Surfing

Word has gotten out about Bali’s surfing…apparently today’s spots are a bit different than the relatively unknown breaks of 20+ years ago. It’s really blown up, but I guess you can still find some glassy calm just as the early morning sun rises.

I just learned to surf in the Philippines, so I’m excited to try my luck in Bali.

From what I’ve gathered, some beaches are more crowded than others. Kuta Beach is where the party’s at, but I’m also excited to explore some lesser known beaches like Pasir Putih and Balangan. There really is so much coastline to explore, I’m excited to rent a motorbike and see as much as I can!

Yes, My Bali Adventure is Calling

Like many “digital nomads”, being based in Thailand gives me easy access to awesome destinations like Bali. The island is so centrally located–I can hop on a budget flight for $50 or less and be there within an hour or two. Not bad! I look forward to covering Bali in much more detail in the future. Stay tuned!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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By Nathan Allen

On a bumpy bus ride to Cambodia a few years ago, I met a young Swiss couple backpacking their way around the world.  At the time I was just 2 weeks into my first real overseas adventure, so I soaked up their photos and stories with wide-eyed astonishment.  “So you’ve been all over the world…what is your absolute favorite country?”  I just had to ask.

Their faces lit up, as if they had been waiting to tell me the whole time.

“The Philippines, without a doubt.”

Wait, what?  The Philippines?  One would expect them to mention exotic destinations like Thailand, Vietnam, India, or Peru.  To be honest, at that point, the first thing I thought of when I heard the word “Philippines” was poverty (well, thanks to my Filipino friends in California, the first thing was actually lumpia  The second thing I thought of was danger.  After all, the country has made appearances  on the U.S. Travel Advisory website a few times.

I Had To See It For Myself…

Well, I never forgot what that couple told me.  About two years later, I jumped at the chance to visit – and let me tell you – I ended up staying for an entire year!  I have been to many countries, but the Philippines is just different.  There I found a warmth and hospitality that is unrivaled anywhere in the world.  I traveled to many different regions and did my best to learn some of the different languages and customs.  

Check out my tips on Filipino food and phrases further down the page.  By the way, it’s not just for backpackers…there are also world-class resorts on stunning islands such as Boracay, Bohol, and those in Bacuit Bay, El Nido.

Related: My in-depth look at Filipino Culture

It’s a shame, because this country and its people have so much to offer.  So the real question is…

Yes, in that time I fell deeply in love with this beautiful country – just as that Swiss couple had.  Poor?  Yes, there is poverty like other parts of SE Asia, but there is also real wealth, and not just the monetary kind.  Dangerous?  Nope.  A few incidents in the far south have given people a false impression about the risk of traveling through the rest of the country. 

It’s a shame, because this country and its people have so much to offer.  So the real question is…

How Has the Philippines Remained Such a Tiny Blip on the Backpacking Radar??

 One reason the Philippines has gone unnoticed may be because of how isolated it is.  From Thailand you can easily take a cheap bus through a few other countries – Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos.  The Philippines, on the other hand, is a country of over 7,000 islands, and they are hanging out by themselves out in the vast Pacific Ocean. 

Another reason might be that, to western eyes, the country doesn’t seem as “exotic” (read: different) as other Asian nations.  It makes sense, given that it was colonized for hundreds of years by both the U.S. and Spain (from my understanding, Filipinos themselves are a melting pot of Malay, Chinese, and Spanish blood). 

Filipinos have a strong sense of modesty and prefer not to boast or show off.   Perhaps that’s why we haven’t heard much about the beauty of the Philippines yet!  Well I’ve witnessed the beauty and cultural diversity firsthand, and I’m not Filipino…so allow me to boast for them:)  

The country is in fact quite “exotic”, and it’s poised and ready to give other destinations in SE Asia (and even places like the Maldives and the Bahamas) a real run for their money!  In my opinion, backpacking meccas like Khao San Road in Bangkok are completely oversaturated and have just become havens for unruly tourists looking for cheap booze and young girls. 

Thailand has tuk-tuks; the Philippines has trikes and “jeepneys“.  Cambodia has Angkor Wat; the Philippines has the Banaue rice terraces.  Vietnam has bustling Ho Chi Minh City; the Philippines has Makati.  Laos has temples; the Philippines has countless 300+ year old Spanish churches.  Thailand has “Phi Phi Leh” island, where the movie “The Beach” was filmed; the Philippines has breathtaking El Nido, which inspired the movie in the first place. 

For all these reasons (and so many more), I want you to consider postponing that overdone SE Asia backpacking trip and travel to the incredible Philippine Islands instead.

Why? I Thought You’d Never Ask:

• Natural Beauty.  Yes, these islands are STUNNING.  I have seen some beautiful beaches in my life (Florida Keys, Bahamas, Vietnam), but these take the cake.  They are frequently compared to the beaches in southern Thailand and the Maldives, but at just a fraction of the cost.  Yes, budget minded travelers will be in heaven here. 

El Nido’s impressive limestone rock formations are definitely on par with Ha Long Bay in Vietnam, and the incredible 2,000 year-old Rice Terraces in Banaue and Batad are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Did I mention the waterfalls?   SO. MANY. WATERFALLS. 

By the way, it’s well known that this beauty extends to the people as well.  There is even a joke about how Filipina women have been banned from future beauty pageants because other countries want a fair chance of winning.  Haha! 

• Adventure Awaits.  We covered beaches, but what else do you want to do?  Snorkeling / Kayaking in El Nido?  Mind blowing.  Surfing in Siargao’s Cloud 9?  Amazing – and the Red Hot Chili Peppers beat you to it…they just left.  Trekking in the rice terraces of the cordillera?  Boat trip through the Underground River?  You got it.  Spelunking (cave exploring) in Sagada Mountain province?  Unforgettable.  Shipwreck diving in Coron?  Windsurfing / sunset gazing / partying at world famous Boracay beach?  Yes please. 
  

Swimming with the whalesharks (AKA “gentle giants”) in Oslob and Donsol?  Cebu Booze Cruise?  You’ll have a blast.  Zip lines, 4×4 tours in Ilocos Norte, canyon swings, ATV tours up the “perfect” volcano in Legazpi, wakeboarding in Naga City…and much more.  What are you waiting for?

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-Nathan

Pure Joy.  Filipinos are arguably the happiest people on earth, and happiness is not a bad thing to surround yourself with on your coveted vacation, right?  Who knows, some of it might even rub off on you.  Once you’re done reading this and looking over my photos, I think you’ll have an idea why Filipinos are so happy.

They are a people and a culture that have evolved in true paradise, and being such a communal culture, they have plenty of friends and family close by at all times (good priorities / quality of life).

Affordable.  The cheapest room I ever found was on the stunning volcanic island of Camiguin (read my blog post HERE), and it was run by a charming older couple.  I paid just $3.75USD a night!  I wasn’t sleeping in satin sheets, but I couldn’t complain!  In the off season you might pay an average of $7.50 for your own budget room, or as little $3.50 for a dorm.  $20 will get you a pretty nice place, perhaps even with AC instead of just fans. 

I found local carenderias (eateries) where I regularly ate rice, chicken and/or pork for just $1.50 a plate!  Tanduay rum is popular in the Visayas, and costs just $1.50 a bottle.  I read that it’s getting so popular internationally that they are even putting a dent in Bacardi sales!  In the north they drink “Emperador”, and it’s about the same price.  These are all the favorite ingredients of those backpacking on a budget!

Culture / Food. Trek for hours to discover the last remaining tribal tattoo artist (who happens to be a 93 year old woman) in Kalinga.  Sleep in a  nipa hut and explore remnants of the Ifugao warrior culture up there while you’re at it. You’ll find nothing but smiles there today, but hundreds of years ago there were fierce headhunters seeking vengeance on rival clans.  You can journey to the beautiful “enchanted” island of Siquijor, which is said to be inhabited by witch doctors and practitioners of black magic. This stunning island is not that popular with local tourists for some reason;)

There are over 100 different languages / dialects in the Philippines, which probably evolved due to being spread out among the isolated islands of the archipelago.  Virtually everybody speaks English, so don’t expect much of a communication barrier. Going hand in hand with language are the different regional foods, which have probably evolved for the same reasons. There is a fiesta going on somewhere each day of the year.

San Miguel beer is quite good, and can often be found for under $1 USD a bottle!  It’s right up there with Manny Pacquiao in terms of national pride, and for good reason!

Nosebleed? Do You Need a Tissue?

* Sometimes it may seem like there is a communication barrier, and it is times like this when you might hear locals say that they have a “nosebleed”.  I was so baffled by this expression at first!  It turns out they joke that they have a “nosebleed” when a foreigner comes up to them and they feel put on the spot with their English (even though they can speak perfectly).  They are so nervous that they expect their nose to just start bleeding because of all the pressure in their head!  I hear conflicting reports, but I think the term may have originated with a famous comedy movie from the 90s. 

• City Nightlife / Shopping.  Yes, you read that correctly.  Manila and Cebu have been developed and gone through quite a transformation in recent years.  The economy in the Philippines is growing by leaps and bounds, and is projected to continue rocketing up over the next 35 years.  You can already find plenty of high-end shops, clubs, bars and restaurants…and plenty more are on the way.

• Safety.  It’s actually NOT dangerous – the big cities of Manila and Cebu have some crime, but no more than other well-traveled cities like Rio or Rome.  I never had any problems during my stay for a year.  Just be street-smart and don’t travel any farther south than Davao City in Mindanao if you really want to play it safe.  These areas (far below Davao) have had some political unrest and terrorist activity in the past.                                                                                  I suspect that the actual risk even in the far south is much lower than we’re led to believe, but I haven’t actually yet been, so don’t take my word for it!

• Hosts.  Filipinos are very welcoming (the more you get away from touristy areas, the more you will notice this).  You may be invited for dinner or to stay with people you meet along the way.  Don’t miss this opportunity to experience the hospitality and culture!  Members of the Couchsurfing travel community will be happy to learn that there are plenty of amazing hosts in Manila and Cebu. 

They often take their own backpacking trips through SE Asia, Australia, and Europe.  Other smaller cities around the Philippines are gaining more and more members all the time as well!  I recommend Naga and Legazpi in the Bicol region if you want to get off the beaten path. This region is rich in spicy, delicious food (spicy is not common in the country otherwise), and has some stunning natural attractions like the “world’s most perfect” cone volcano (Mt. Mayon) and pristine Caramoan beach.

• Wifi / Data Coverage.  You may not know this, but the Philippines is the “social media capital of the world”!  There are 100 million people in this country, and they are quite tech savvy – calling/texting/surfing the Internet very often.  This means you’re in luck if you need to get online with your computer while you’re there.
  

You can easily purchase a Globe Tattoo or Smart Bro USB stick and you will find signal almost EVERYWHERE. It may not always be fast, but I loved the convenience – even on a ferry boat with no land in sight!  Cost might be about $50 USD for the stick and a 30 days of use.

Reasons Why You SHOULDN’T Go To The Philippines:

You hate fun, and happy people who like to have it. 

You’re allergic to any of the following:

• Good times
  
• The sun
  
• Powdery white sand
• Crystal clear blue water
• Seafood that’s so fresh, it might just bite you back

Haha.  Get the point?  Go.  Now.  Word is spreading fast, and places like this don’t stay a secret for long.  Feels like just yesterday Laos was off limits to tourists; now it feels like it’s crawling with them.  

I’ll never forget being at Changi airport in Singapore and seeing the “It’s More Fun In The Philippines” video above for the first time.  It’s a MUST WATCH!

OK, OK, It Really IS Paradise!! So What About The Food??

The way to any traveler’s heart is through cheap, authentic local food.  Here’s your crash course in Filipino food!

On first glance upon arrival in Manila, the food options may seem disappointing.  There will be American fast food chains everywhere, and even some of the local food at the eateries has been westernized (in a bad way).  The good news is that you can find cheap traditional dishes if you just put a little effort into it.  I never had any problems eating street food in the country, but I do have a fairly “well-traveled” stomach. 

If I was coming for a month, I would want to get used to the food as soon as possible.  Just as in other countries, it might take a few days to adjust, but hopefully you will be free to experiment with your eating after that.  After all, it’s a huge part of the travel experience, don’t you think? 

“Safe” Foods For Picky Eaters

• Chicken Adobo (adobong manok) and rice – this may end up being the national dish soon.  You can find it everywhere, and I’d say it’s safe for even the pickiest eaters.  Pininyahang manok (pineapple chicken) is similar, and is also recommended if you come across it!

• Grilled Fish and Rice –There are many common varieties of fish readily available…tuna, bangus (milkfish)…etc.  It is commonly fried as well.

• Chicken soup (Tinola) – This is delicious, and fairly easy to find as well.  My mouth is watering just thinking about it. 

• Tocino and Tapsilog – These are very common pork dishes that are served with rice / egg and eaten for breakfast.  Tocino is sweet pork meat. 

• Pork (baboy) BBQ –  You can find this cooking on the streets each night around dinnertime.  Look for the plume of smoke and follow your nose!  Eat with rice.

• Halo-Halo – This dessert may look strange (it’s a combination of ice cream, preserves, shaved ice, and corn flakes), but I can assure you, on a hot day (which in the Philippines, it will be), it really hits the spot.  If you can find it served in a coconut, even better (buko halo-halo).  Masarap! (delicious).

•  Pandesal – This is a popular bread roll that is served in the mornings.  There is nothing like fresh, hot pandesal!

Related – She said she’d rather “starve to death” than eat Filipino food. This was my response.

Intermediate Bravery:

• Sinigang (tamarind soup made with pork, chicken, or fish) – To me this is quite tame and delicious…I almost want to include it in the “safe” category, but some people may find it too sour for their tastes. 

• Bulalo – Beef soup made with bone marrow.  Most of the time I enjoyed this dish, but once, in Sagada, it was so potent that I found it hard to stomach!

• Kinilaw na tuna – raw fish and vegetables in vinegar / calamansi (lime).  I didn’t see this too often, but I enjoyed it when I had the chance to eat it!

Pro Skills (Pinoy na Pinoy):

• Isaw (chicken intestines) – This seems to be well loved by most Filipinos, but I just don’t care for it.  It’s much better than the version I tried in Hong Kong, but still not my favorite. 

• Balut – This is the infamous partially-developed duck embryo that has been featured on adventurous eating shows for years.  Half fluid, half solid…sometimes with feathers.  They serve it in Vietnam also (trứng vịt lộn).  You crack the top with a spoon, put some salt on it, and drink the warm juice first.  Then you slowly peel the rest off the shell off and eat the remainder of it.  Fortunately this is served on dark street corners where you can’t easily see what you’re eating. 

It tastes good if you can get past the psychological issues – many Filipino friends of mine in Manila have never even tried it!  As for me, I didn’t travel half way around the world to not eat balut!  Haha.  I had it 3 times.  By the way, I didn’t post any photos, and you’re welcome.

• Tamilok (woodworm) – This huge “worm” is actually a mollusk that can be found in rotting mangroves on the island of Palawan.  From what I hear it tastes like an oyster.  Again, I suspect the psychology of eating a giant worm that you just pulled out of some rotting wood makes the experience much worse than it really is. 

• Dinuguan – This is a meat stew containing lungs, kidneys, intestines, ears, heart and snout.  it’s served in a rich, spicy dark gravy of pig blood, garlic, vinegar and chili.  Believe it or not, this one I loved!

At some point during your stay, you might as well give Filipino fast food a try and go to Jolibee!  You know what they say…when in Rome…

Earn “Pinoy Points” With These Three Phrases

Filipinos are already very welcoming to foreigners, but you can ensure a good impression by sprinkling these three phrases into conversation:

• Vegetables are known as “gulay” (goo-lai ) in Filipino, and you can score some serious points by saying “OH MY GULAY!” instead of “Oh my goodness”.  That is sure to put a smile on a local’s face!

• If you ever have a great interaction with a Filipino and feel the desire to “high five” them…put your hand up and say “APIR” (ah-peer)!!  This comes from the American G.I. days when the soldiers taught kids how to say “up here” while giving high fives.  It has been adopted as its own Filipino word now:)

• “Masarap” (mah-sah-rahp) means “delicious”, and I found it very useful to say to show gratitude wherever I was eating.

Planning Your Trip To The Philippines

Transportation

No, you can’t take a cheap bus to the other islands, but thankfully the country has a great budget airline called Cebu Pacific.  They say “it’s more fun in the Philippines”, and this airline proves it.  I once boarded at 7AM with Hip Hop music playing…I didn’t see it, but they are also famous for dancing flight attendants. 

Pay attention to the seat sales online (you can sign up for them), and you can score one-way tickets for as little as $7.50 USD (with taxes)!  I bought 2 tickets to Boracay from Manila for $25 with taxes.  I flew from Puerto Princesa to Cebu, from Cebu to Camiguin, and from Cebu to Manila all for just $12 per one way ticket.

You can also take relatively inexpensive ferry boats to many of the islands, and these can be beautiful, adventurous trips in their own right.  Just check the weather to make sure the seas won’t be too rough. 

Once you’re on the island, don’t hesitate to take a “jeepney” or a trike.  These are very common and inexpensive forms of local transportation.  For a real thrill you can ride “top load” in some parts of the country…it really IS more fun in the Philippines!

What should I Expect When I Arrive?

Escape To The Islands

For those based around Asia, you can get away with a quick trip to paradise.  For the rest of you, you will break my heart if you plan on spending any less than 2 weeks here – 1 month would be great. You need a bit of time to get over jet lag, and then some more time to adjust to the Filipino way of life.  Things move at a different pace, and you might find yourself frustrated at first …especially in Manila, where you’ll likely be flying in. 

Speaking of Manila, get out of there as soon as you can.  It has some sights I’d recommend (Intramuros, Rizal Park, U.P. Campus) if you are staying long term, but as a tourist with limited time, definitely get out and explore the rest of the county first.  Manila is very expensive and congested – not the best way to start your vacation. 

FYI:  The country isn’t known for scams, but the taxi drivers at the airport in Manila are notoriously bad about overcharging, and there’s not much you can do about it.  They know they can just find somebody else if you refuse to pay their “rate”.  It may be $7.50-$12.00 to get to your hotel, but you’ll have more luck getting drivers to use their meters once you leave the airport (normal rate from airport might be $3.00-$6.00.

When in Manila…

Another thing you might find shocking are the guards with giant guns all over the place – they protect most banks and government offices.  They usually have ear-to-ear smiles and are friendly as can be – don’t let them fool you into thinking it’s more dangerous than it is.  I just got used to it after a while.  Both Manila and Cebu have nice areas, but they also have seedier parts where there are red light districts.  Just a heads up. 

Like other parts of south east Asia, you will come face to face with poverty in the big cities.  What’s incredible to see is how the poor people outside of big cities (and even some inside) manage to smile and give, even when they have very little.   There are fishermen and farmers who are far removed from the treadmill of consumerism, and they find contentment in their simple, happy lives with friends and family.  I realized that these people were in fact quite wealthy when compared to the many ways our more “developed” societies are lacking.  It was a powerful realization.

Related: “What I REALLY Think of the Philippines“.

Weather / Tourist Seasons

The rainy season in most of the country is roughly from July to September or October.  This is also the low season where you can find better rates on accommodations.  Peak rates are Christmas, Easter (watch out for Holy Week!), and the Filipino summer months of April and May.  Remember, if places have vacancies, then you can try negotiating for a better price – especially if you are paying up front for a stay of 4 or more days.

Planning Your Itinerary

For a 2 Week Backpacking Trip

I’d say try to book a flight to either El Nido or Boracay a few hours after you land in Manila.  It could be cheaper and more scenic to fly to Puerto Princesa and take the 5 hour bus to El Nido…but you lose some time staying overnight in Puerto Princesa also. 

Related: El Nido – My Favorite Place on Earth!

If you’re looking for a well-developed beach to party on for a few days, choose Boracay instead of the more adventurous El Nido.  From either of these locations, I recommend flying next to the beautiful island of Bohol.  Here you should spend at least 3 days checking out the world-class beach resorts, the famous “Chocolate Hills, and the fascinating tarsier sanctuary.  Tarsiers are nocturnal, and have the largest eyes of any mammal – relative to their body weight.  From here I recommend flying back to Manila and catching a night bus up to the Banaue rice terraces. 

Make sure you ride “top load” on a jeepney for an unforgettable experience!  Spend 2 days there before continuing up to Sagada Mountain Province, where you can spend 2 or 3 days exploring the caves, famous “hanging coffins”, and beautiful Bomod Ok waterfall.  By then you should be able to take another overnight bus back to Manila and prepare for your flight home!  Wait…did you sing videoke somewhere along the way?  If not, start over!

The 2 two-week options I recommend are:

Manila>El Nido>Bohol>Manila>Banau>Sagada>Manila>Home

 and

Manila>Boracay>Bohol>Manila>Banau>Sagada>Manila>Home

For a 1 Month Backpacking Trip

If you have a full month, I recommend doing the exact same route, except consider adding a stop in Cebu City after El Nido or Boracay.  Try to time it so that you can catch the Cebu Booze Cruise, which is a blast.  You’ll find a great mix of locals and foreigners having a great time out on the water.  If you went to El Nido before, I recommend going to Bantayan Island in northern Cebu before continuing to Bohol.  Bantayan has perfect white sand beaches like Boracay, but it’s much less developed and much more relaxing. 

Related: Postcard-Perfect Bantayan Island

If you went to Boracay previously, I recommend skipping Bantayan and just going to Siquijor after Bohol.  It’s a few hours on the boat, but the “enchanted” island free of tourists is worth it.  Rent a motorbike and circle the entire island (don’t miss the enchanted Balete Tree).  Snorkeling at the marine sanctuary in front of Coco Grove Resort is recommended!  Then get back to Cebu and fly to Manila so you can board a bus to the Banaue Rice Terraces, except this time also spend a day or two hiking into the incredible Batad rice terraces.  Tip: Tapiya Falls is steep, but worth the effort! 

 Search for beautiful Philippine hotels below!

The 2 one-month routes I recommend are: 

Manila>El Nido>Cebu City>Bohol>Siquijor>Cebu City>Manila>Banau>Batad>Sagada>Manila>Home 

and  Manila>Boracay>Cebu City>Bantayan>Bohol>Cebu City>Manila>Banau>Batad>Sagada>Manila>Home

Something to consider if you’re a diver is substituting Coron for El Nido, and also making dive trips to Apo Island and Moalboal.  You might be able to accomplish this if you cut out the rice terraces and mountain provinces.  Another incredible experience would be flying to Legazpi City and traveling south down to Donsol to swim with the butandings (whale sharks).  I hear the experience is much better for the sharks there (as opposed to in Oslob, Cebu).  You can ride an ATV up beautiful Mt. Mayon while you’re in the area, too!

Other places on my wish list:  The Spanish colonial town of Vigan in Ilocos Sur, Caramoan in Bicol (the location of Survivor Philippines), Camotes, Moalboal, and swimming with Thresher sharks in Malapascua (all in Cebu). 

Hotels and Resorts

You can find everything from simple huts on the beach to 5 star resorts in the Philippines….no, it’s not just for backpackers. You can read reviews and check rates HERE (Agoda), or HERE (Booking.com)

Travel Tips and Etiquette

Rainy season or not, it will be hot and humid.  However, if you plan on going to Baguio, Sagada, or Banaue (or any of the mountain provinces), be prepared for cool weather.  You may even need a light jacket up there sometimes.  Something to keep in mind anywhere in the country – If you choose to take aircon buses, they are often FREEZING cold!

Don’t forget your rain gear, swimsuit, flip flops, umbrella, sunscreen, mosquito repellent, and big smile!  

If you do happen to forget something at home, don’t worry, because you can buy just about any supplies you might need in bigger cities, and also anywhere tourists are present. 

Try to support businesses that are environmentally aware, and notify the authorities if you see something that concerns you.   Environmental education and regulation is lacking, so the ecosystem is under more and more strain as the number of tourists climbs each year.  Consider volunteering if you have the desire and time!

The Philippines will put a spell on you!  I promise, you’ll never forget it.

The post Travel: Why I Think The Philippines is SE Asia’s Next Backpacking Paradise appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

This is Romblon, Romblon – Don’t Get Confused

Romblon island is the middle of the three islands in Romblon province. The island to the west is Tablas, Romblon, and the one to the east is called Sibuyan, Romblon.

Getting to this island from Tablas was a bit of an adventure itself, but there is a much easier way direct from Manila (I’ll cover that later). I arrived at the port of Romblon Town in the early morning. After a nice, brief rest at my B&B, I headed to JD&G Italian Restaurant. This place was recommended to me, and not only was the food fantastic, but the owner had a motorbike I could rent!

I finished my lunch and hopped on the bike. Within minutes (literally), I was treated to this view:

Yeah, right away I could tell I was going to love this island. Hardly any tourists, with breathtaking turquoise seas and white sand beaches.

About 1km after this overlook, I located the small trail going to a place called Bonbon Beach. I had seen some amazing photos online, so I was excited to check it out.

( If you prefer to use booking.com, you can browse Romblon Hotels HERE )

Well, it delivered. This place was sooo incredible – you can check out my separate Bonbon Beach Post if you’d like.

Colorful Romblon Town

The town itself has a lot of character. Many of the buildings are splashed with vibrant, pastel colors. It gives such a bright, cheery feel. I love it.

“Good Vibes” in Romblon’s Marble?

As you can see in that last photo, marble (the mineral) is Romblon Island’s claim to fame. I noticed many marble shops in town, and quite a few marble sculptures and statues along the countryside roads.  What I also noticed is that, quite simply, Romblon is full of good vibes. Really, there is an unexplainable energy I felt here.

In fact, as I rode my motorbike through the remote parts of the island, my arm literally started to hurt from waiving back at all the smiley locals. There were SO MANY. Don’t get me wrong – the Philippines is the friendliest country I’ve ever visited, but Romblon Island seems to take that friendliness to an exponential level!

Carlos Reyes, owner of Stone Creek House in town, half jokes that maybe it’s something in all that raw marble just below Romblon’s surface. Who knows, stranger things have happened. Whatever it is, I felt it…and it was good.

Fort San Andres

A steep 10 minute climb up some stairs by the market brings you to this historic Spanish Fort. The grounds are lush and well kept, and there are beautiful views of the harbor and sea from the top. You can find some information and history about the fort as well. There will probably be a caretaker who will collect a 20 peso fee (40 cents).

Anyhow, after this I continued south on the motorbike, snapping colorful photos along the way. It was a beautiful day.

Talipasak Beach Resort (San Pedro)

As usual, I didn’t really have a plan. When I saw a road veering off the right, I just took it. I noticed what looked like a huge eagle flying overhead, then the road started leading into a canopy of shady trees. There were kingfishers and other tropical birds all around, and the landscape was quite beautiful. I passed a place called Totoys, then the road dead ended at Dumagat Freedive.

I wanted to have lunch somewhere, and the guy at Dumagat said to check Talipasak Beach Resort next door. I’m so glad I did.

Also known as San Pedro Beach Resort, the food wasn’t incredible, but it was pretty tasty…and definitely affordable! The woman there was quite nice, and I loved the feel of the place. I relaxed in the hammock and then went for a swim and some snorkeling afterward (I brought my own mask). Nothing spectacular…but it was refreshing, at least.

The resort bungalows sit in the shade up a small hill, overlooking Talipasak Beach and the sea. Rooms are clean, but basic. Fan only. Last I checked it was just 700 pesos a night to stay there.

Someday I hope to come back and stay for a few nights. Beautiful, secluded place. I noticed that local groups like to come in and pay for day use. They just bring their own food and drinks to the beach.

If you want to stay here (and you don’t have a motorbike), you need a trike (public transportation) to drop you off. That could cost about 300 or 400 pesos ($6-8). You’ll be isolated out there, but perhaps that’s just what you’re after.

Countryside Landscapes

The southern part of the island brought me through some colorful and friendly local communities. I stopped at a few tropical vistas and lagoons – really breathtaking scenery.

(Ricoh GR II photos)

I heard people talk about going “up on the mountain” from time to time…so I asked how to get there. The last photo above was from a hike I took (the dirt road became too rough and dangerous, and I had to leave the motorbike).I believe the road going up is called Sawang-Cogon Shunt Rd.

As you ascend, the scenery really begins to shift to grassy, windswept hills…and the temperature cools off. Again, nothing spectacular, but it is cool and peaceful. Could be a good place to catch a sunset.

By the way, I also checked out the fascinating corals @ Agpanabat Marine Sanctuary while down south. Link is at the bottom of the page.

Beautiful, Rugged Coastline

Check out these views! These lush, grassy hillsides actually remind me home – the beautiful northern California coast.

I parked the motorbike and took these photos near Calabago lighthouse (not pictured).

(continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

Continuing up the east side of the island, I found these colorful buildings tucked away in the coconut trees along the beach.

There was also a native style “bahay kubo”, or hut. These were located very near to Lamao Beach Resort (this place seems to be popular with the locals). It’s a pretty remote area out here.

Why Do I Love Romblon So Much?

If the pictures weren’t enough for you, I’ll elaborate more: To me, Romblon Island is the perfect getaway / adventure. It has everything I love: Stunning beaches / swimming / snorkeling, access to a motorbike for rent, few crowds / little development, tropical jungles, windy coastal roads (with scenic vistas), a lot of friendly local culture, AND it’s small enough to circle on a motorbike in just a few hours.

I call Romblon Island “The Sweet Spot in the Heart Of The Philippines”.

To top it off, there is a tiny but tight-knit community of European and American expats there. They are highly entertaining to chat with, and they have even brought some flavors from home. As mentioned before, you’ll often find some at JD&G Italian Restaurant, which serves excellent pizza and calzones. Probably the best affordable Italian I had anywhere in the Philippines.

Anyhow, now to wrap up my story…on the way back to town, I stopped once more at Bonbon Beach. I caught a magical sunset, and captured these two fishermen bringing their boat in from the sea.

What a great way to say goodbye to my new favorite paradise.

How To Get There

You might be able to find a cheap Cebu Pacific flight to the neighboring island of Tablas, but then you need transportation to the San Agustin ferry port an hour away. The ferry only runs early in the morning and at 1pm each day. I think the best bet is to take the 2GO “party boat”, as I like to call it…

It’s an overnight sleeper ferry that goes from Batangas (south of Manila) directly to Romblon Town. It has a bar with live entertainment playing late into the night. Haha. Awesome.

Where To Stay

If you are looking to get away from it all in rustic fashion (warning: you WILL be isolated out there) check out Talipasak Beach Resort, mentioned above.

However, the best option might be sleek Stone Creek House. It’s located right in town proper, and is beautifully designed – with all the conveniences of home. The reason this is so great is because it’s nearby to excellent food, as well as the BEST beach on the island (Bonbon). In town you can easily rent the motorbike @ JD&G and explore more of the island as well.

Hope you enjoy Romblon’s charm as much as I did!

Also be sure to check out my other related posts:

Bonbon Beach 

Agpanabat Fish and Turtle Sanctuary

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

My Detailed Comparison of the Sony RX100 vs the Ricoh GR II

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By Nathan Allen

Anyway, once I was in town, eventually the road came to a dead end at the sea. I must have looked a bit disoriented, because a local boatman named Jensen approached me and asked if I needed directions. Great timing and I was very thankful, because I was trying to get to Summer Homes Palawan, where I could park my bike and settle in for the night. I was so tired.

Chicken Soup & Reggae Music to the Rescue

I wasn’t able to see much of the resort’s character in the night, but the staff was quite helpful showing me to my room and getting me situated. The first order of business was getting some food, and for some reason I wandered right down to the small tiki bar by the beach. I guess it was the reggae music playing that got my attention, and the music just got better and better. The girl behind the counter at the bar told me I could order my food there. Perfect! I ordered my favorite Filipino chicken soup, called tinola. It was excellent.

I stuck around after dinner to keep enjoying the music and good vibes. That’s when I started to realize just how laid back Summer Homes really is. Not many people know how important music is in my life, and as the playlist continued, I really started to wonder who created it. They seemed like my long lost twin! It was as if they put my own iPod on random at the bar. It’s rare to find a place in the Philippines where I instantly feel so at home, music-wise.

After some investigating as the night went on, I learned that the playlist was created by the British owner, who was close to my age and owns the place along with his wife, who is Filipino. Too bad they weren’t around while I was there, because I got the feeling we would have gotten along great.

The next morning I woke up to some great weather, and I realized just how colorful the place is!

Summer Homes is a good value, not really dirt-cheap like a backpacking hostel, but not wildly pricey like most seaside resorts, either.

My room was simple, and very clean + well lit.

Essentials like soap, shampoo, and toilet paper are provided, and importantly, so is a mosquito net. To be honest, I never even saw a mosquito in the 5 days I was there, but it was nice to know I had a net if I needed it.

Many of the more affordable options in the Philippines don’t provide screens on the windows, and that is the biggest problem when it comes to mosquitoes. Summer Homes had it all, and with a friendly staff and great location right on the beach.

Someday I hope to create a checklist / guide for people considering starting businesses like this. If you want to offer relatively affordable options for backpackers and long term travelers, you could use Summer Homes as a stellar example!

 
I loved seeing how diverse the guests were in terms of age and nationality. Most seemed to be European, but there were definitely Australians, North Americans and locals as well. Nice mix, and a great energy.
 

Restaurant With Fresh Ingredients

I must say, I was quite impressed by the food they serve! The restaurant is perfect for those with western tastes. You can enjoy versions of Filipino food that aren’t quite as sweet, salty, or heavy, which many westerners prefer. You can find many familiar western options as well. They even bake their own bread, and that certainly made my eggs and toast breakfast memorable! Instant coffee is provided free of charge, too.

Summer Homes also gives the option of eating dinner directly on the beach if you’d like, and even has the occasional bonfire! Here I’m enjoying a meal of chicken, rice, and fresh vegetables by candlelight.

The resort offers plenty of tour options for adventure seekers, you can inquire at the front desk. The first tour I took was island hopping, which included snorkeling with sea turtles and then lunch on beautiful “Exotic Island” afterward. Before we headed home we stopped to check out more snorkeling, and some of the most spectacular corals I have seen anywhere in the Philippines.

A Note About Snorkeling / Swimming:

Make sure you bring “reef safe” sunblock if you go in the water. I think “oxybenzone” is the ingredient you want to avoid. Many of the brands that are safe for kids are actually better for the coral reefs as well. Anyhow, afterward, we stopped by a sandbar and spotted some starfish to wrap up an absolutely perfect day.

Another tour I took was a quiet paddle boat through the mangrove forest. If you’re observant, you can find many species of colorful birds, including beautiful kingfishers. Also present are highly poisonous mangrove snakes, which pose no threat because they sleep coiled up high in the branches during the day. Your boatman will point them out to you if he sees any. This was a beautiful and fascinating tour for me.

The last one is a short trek to Pamuayan Falls, which can be arranged through the resort, or accomplished on foot 3 or 4 kms from town if you’re feeling a bit adventurous. Just make sure you get proper directions, because there are a few unmarked turns along the way. I loved seeing the “trashcans” along the trail, which were actually just burlap sacks tied to the trees. It is a very rustic and untouched place, so it’s nice that the locals are taking these steps to keep it clean. You can take a shallow swim or bring some food to have a picnic in the large hut by the falls.

(Continued below)

As of now there is a “Full Moon Party” that takes place each month at the end of the beach. The night I went, there was a large diverse crowd with a live DJ and some fire dancers. There were even some people playing the Australian Aboriginal instrument known as a “didgeridoo”. Everybody was having a great time.

Contact Info, Reviews & Rates

Anyhow, I highly recommend staying at Summer Homes, especially if you want a pretty affordable place without sacrificing too much quality. I honestly doubt you’ll get more value anywhere else. They even shared some of their music playlist with me before I left, and that inspired me to share some of my own with them! So when you’re there, you might even hear some songs handpicked by me:)

I would like to thank them for the opportunity to share this experience with you, and for taking such good care of me while I was there. You’re welcome to read more reviews and see why people love it so much!

More contact and booking info HERE

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

 Related blog: Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera

Goodbye, Gopro…I Finally Review the TG-4 Underwater Camera in the Philippines

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The post Summer Homes Palawan – Laid Back, Affordable…Just Right. appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

By Nathan Allen

Romblon province is made up of 3 Philippine islands, and Romblon island is one of them. It’s easy to get confused. Stone Creek House is located on the island of Romblon.

I had just stepped off the ferry from Tablas, which is the island west of Romblon. Dazed from a lack of sleep over the past few days, I stumbled through the streets looking for a good person to ask where Stone Creek House was. The trike (tuk tuk) drivers swarmed me to offer a ride.

To my surprise, one of the drivers asked me if I was Nathan. “Carlos is expecting you”, he said. I looked down and noticed his tricycle had a New York taxi cab design.  Having lived in NYC at one time, I took this as a good sign.

Arnold was the friendly drivers’ name, and 1 minute later, we had arrived at Stone Creek House.

I felt bad, because I had no signal on Tablas island, and wasn’t able to confirm to Carlos (the owner) that I was coming for sure. To make matters worse, due to my crazy schedule, I arrived a day earlier than we had discussed.  Carlos was very kind, and handled all this quite gracefully.

My Bedroom Suite

He showed me to my spacious room (it was a suite, really) with a private entrance on the ground floor. First impression was definitely good! Carlos explained that Romblon island is the “marble capital of the Philippines”, and I could see the elegant, white stone incorporated into the design around my room.

There was also an interesting cutaway stone design on the wall, as you can see below. It quickly became apparent why he chose the name “Stone Creek House”.

Carlos is Filipino by blood, but actually very much American. He was raised in New York, hence the NYC themed trike that dropped me off at Stone Creek. However, his family goes back generations here in Romblon, and he is quite a wealth of knowledge for anything and everything tourism related.

(By the way, if you’re passing through Manila on your trip to Romblon, I recommend clicking HERE for hotel options). Those interested in super cheap flights might want to check THIS out)

Self Taught Designer w/ a Knack For Repurposing

Carlos has a background in advertising, not design….but amazingly, Stone Creek House is all his own design. He did an excellent job repurposing old materials, such as the piece of jeepney (jeep) suspension above, which now functions as a towel rack in the shower. When you’re there in the room, also note the cut-open Italian Coca Cola dispenser, which is now the bathroom sink!

As you can see below , the room is quite spacious, and the elegant marble “headboard” above the mahogany bed frame is a nice touch.

Here you will notice more repurposing: The corrugated metal on the wall, along with another part of the jeepney suspension, which is used as a door handle in this case. If you’re wondering….yes, the bed is as heavenly comfortable as it looks. I think it’s even a tempurpedic mattress!

Room Decor – It’s All About the Details

This rustic old door has been refinished, painted, and now supports a series of shelves displaying decorative items. Apparently Stone Creek House even has its own custom scent (see spray bottle below): Grapefruit + Jasmine.

Carlos’ knowledge is not just limited to Romblon tourism…he is a dedicated history + Star Wars + trivia buff as well. An avid reader, he keep plenty of books in the rooms for his guests.

Of course you would expect a room of this caliber to include air conditioning, and it does. There is also a water heater in the shower…even a simple thing like that can be rare on a small provincial island like this.

The flat screen TV is loaded with cable channels, and the upper rooms are best for wifi, from what I’ve heard (the wifi was actually being repaired when I was there, but supposedly, Stone Creek House usually has one of the fastest signals).

The upper floor has a common living room space with great natural light. There is also a unique spiral staircase that leads up to the roof deck.

The roof deck affords an overview of everyday life on the streets, and in the market nearby.

Actually, I think the location–right smack in the middle of the local community–is part of Stone Creek House’s charm. My room actually had floor-to-ceiling windows that face the street. It is a perfect mirror from the outside, but a normal window from the inside (you can see people outside, but they can’t see you.)

This provides a unique look at every day life…people coming and going…visiting the small shops and market nearby. A bit of warning, though: At night people can see inside the room a bit, so make sure you close the curtains when you’re inside or when you leave.

Another tip: Bring plenty of cash with you, because there’s only 1 international ATM in town, and it isn’t always reliable.

So yes, this location really gives you the best of both worlds: Boracay-grade beaches (without the crowds), and  “big city” standards in terms of service + accommodation.

To top it off, thanks to the island’s small but tight-knit expat community, you can also find excellent + affordable international food options within walking distance! Of course, there are plenty of good Filipino options as well.

Yes, if you make the effort to explore, you’ll find that Romblon is really something special (look for my full post soon).  Stone Creek House represents the best this charming island has to offer.

I appreciate the opportunity  to share this experience with my readers.

Contact Info, Rates & Reviews

I’m not the only one who loves Stone Creek House, check the reviews on Tripadvisor…nothing but glowing praise – both for the hotel, and Carlos as a top-notch host.

Find Stone Creek House on Facebook HERE

Tip: You may be able to rent the entire building on Airbnb HERE

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The post Stone Creek House – A Boutique Hotel Near Romblon’s Beaches appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

A Pristine Beach, Just Minutes From Romblon Town

Romblon Island, the middle of 3 islands in Romblon province, fast became one of my favorites anywhere in the Philippines. It’s off the beaten tourist path…I rented a motorbike and circled the entire island, taking photographs along the way. Conveniently, Bonbon Beach is just a 10 minute drive south from Romblon Town proper. You’ll follow the scenic coastline (pictured below).

With the help of some top secret info I received from the locals, I was able to locate the trail head and park my motorbike. A brief but beautiful trek through the jungle led me to an opening.

By the way, you can browse hotels in Romblon HERE

I found a few children playing here, on what turned out to be called “Margie’s Beach”. There are 3 beaches connected to each other: Tiamban Beach (to the left), Margie’s Beach (pictured below), and Bonbon Beach, which is to the right.

Below are the small rocks you must climb over to access Bonbon Beach and sandbar. Romblon province is known as “the marble capital of the Philippines”, and if you look closely at these rocks, you’ll see some patches of white marble embedded there. Anyhow, I was excited to continue to Bonbon, because as you can see, it’s quite beautiful.

I climbed up and sat under the shade of a coconut tree. What a view.

I suppose Bonbon Beach was named after this incredible “bonbon” shaped island at the other end of the sandbar. Unfortunately it was high tide, so the sandbar is not so visible in the picture below. I was able to get some natural framing with these palm tree silhouettes, though.

A word of warning: There are very sharp thorns in the brush along the beach. They come from the bush / tree below…the one on the left side of the photo. I wonder if anybody knows the name of this species? Anyhow, these thorns are LONG, and they can pierce bare feet or thin flip flops if you’re not careful.  Just be mindful.

I swam and snorkeled here (with my own mask). The pool pictured below is perfect for swimming, but there isn’t a whole lot to see in terms of corals or fish. The sandbar is located to the right of here, and on the other side of the sandbar is a strong current. Swimming there (especially alone) was not recommended to me.

Anyhow, there is a beautiful view of “bonbon island”, and you’ll notice a few starfish here and there, which makes for a nice photo. I set my hammock up in the little bit of shade I could find and took a nap. I would return to this beach 3 more times before I left Romblon Island, and I only ran into a total of 4 other people. I had the beach to myself for the vast majority of the time.

I headed back to the trail at Margie’s Beach, and found this friendly group of local kids playing in the water. I got back on my motorbike and continued around the island…but made sure to return for sunset.

Sunset on the Sandbar

The sun will go down behind the mountains, but you can still catch a spectacular sunset here. Pictured below are the silhouettes of a couple walking on the sandbar, while a fisherman in a small boat paddles nearby.

(Continued below, but I do hope you’ll consider following along with me…)

I was so happy to catch a nice sunset like this on Bonbon beach. The tall coconut trees provided a perfect silhouette of paradise. These photos will keep me dreaming of Romblon for years to come…

If you’re wondering, I captured these images with my little Ricoh GR II camera. That link is for Lazada (Asia), but you can find it on Amazon HERE.

How To Get To Bonbon Beach

As mentioned before, the beach is just a few minutes south of Romblon Town proper. I actually walked there, but keep in mind that it is 3 or 4kms, and quite hot. I walked because I love to take photographs along the way. 

Apparently the reason it’s hard to find is because the land between the beach and the road is privately owned, and they have fenced off the property. It would appear that the beach is private, too…but from what I hear, nobody is allowed to own the actual beaches in the Philippines.

So basically you’ll be trespassing if you cross the private land, but if you access Tiamban or Margie’s Beach and walk to Bonbon Beach, it is perfectly OK. At least, that’s the story I heard:)

If you’re in town and you rent a motorbike (I recommend asking JD&G Italian Restaurant), just pay attention to all the no trespassing signs…you’ll start seeing them on the right side as the road gets more shady. Just before you go up a small hill, the signs end and you can find the tiny jungle trail on the right. You may see a trike or motorbike parked there.

This short trail will take you to Margie’s Beach, where you can easily access Bonbon Beach as well. Please pack out all your trash, and enjoy this incredible place!

Looking for lodging? Stone Creek House is my recommendation for an awesome place to stay in Romblon Town. More general info on Romblon Island can be found in the related links below…

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

 Related Links

Romblon Island Photos: A Road Trip in the Heart of the Philippines

Snorkeling @ Agpanabat Turtle Sanctuary in Romblon, Romblon

My Detailed Comparison of the Sony RX100 vs the Ricoh GR II

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