By Nathan Allen

Abandoned for many decades, it is the final resting place for many early Chinese pioneers…and currently home to a lot of colorful wildlife–such as kingfishers, woodpeckers, and even a troop of curious monkeys!

Singapore’s Chinese Heritage – Lost in a Jungle

Almost forgotten by time, the dense jungle has taken over much of this historic site. For me, that’s actually a huge part of its appeal. Bukit Brown was named after the original owner, George Henry Brown. He was a British trader that lived on this land.

Brown had sailed from Calcutta in the 1840s, and after purchasing the area, he named it “Mount Pleasant”.

It was then sold to Ong Kew Ho and Huay Kuan, but eventually transferred to the government when the need for a cemetery arose. It served Singapore’s Chinese community for about 50 years, and was actually considered the largest cemetery outside of China. It closed down decades ago, but you can still visit and take a self-guided tour of these mysterious gravesites.

I absolutely loved wandering and taking pictures here…with not a (living) soul around. It’s so solemn and peaceful – a wild and scenic counterpart to Singapore’s well-manicured green spaces (of which I am also a fan).

Photographers, birders, and general nature-lovers feel quite at home here. Have a look at this giant, “rain tree“! These are the kinds of jungle scenes I dreamed of as a kid. I never imagined ferns could grow high up in a tree, but these bird nest ferns feel right at home there.

Some Bukit Brown graves are adorned with stone statues and figurines.

This is one of those times when I wish I could read Chinese…I’m so curious about who these people were, and how they were immortalized and remembered on their tombstones.

A few have actual photos on them…and this helps to paint a picture of who these early Singaporeans actually were.

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While exploring these jungle trails on my own, I began to hear rustling in the trees around me. I’m not a very superstitious person, but Bukit Brown is supposedly one of the top 10 haunted sites in Singapore. In fact, the “Asia Paranormal Investigators” are one of the groups working to preserve this historic cemetery!

As it turned out, these “ghosts” were of the long-tailed variety…

Spirit Guardians? – Long Tailed Macaques

Eventually I spotted a curious face through the jungle trees…it was a family of monkeys! There must have been 11 or 12 of them.

I approached slowly, but was still met with a bit of resistance. Most of the group slowly shuffled away, but the dominant male stood his ground and showed his teeth. I did not push my luck, but instead just sat peacefully, hoping to show them that I was no threat.

It worked. The old male kept a watchful eye on me, but he began to relax…and even start foraging for food around him. The female and baby monkeys slowly inched back into view.

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Needing to get closer, I switched cameras. With my little Canon superzoom, I continued shooting photos in the fading afternoon light. Some of these monkeys even seemed to pose for me!

They were so fascinating to observe…I can see why anthropologists like Jane Goodall & Dian Fossey studied them so intensely. Their behavior seemed to mirror a human family’s so much…it was uncanny.

The youngest members were the most curious…but the easiest to be spooked as well. This makes sense, as they would be the most vulnerable. These baby monkeys were adorable…and so expressive!

Eventually, curiosity got the better of some members. They began to climb the trees and position themselves above me, so as to get a better look. At one point I had one almost reach down  and touch the top of my head. Of course, I didn’t let things progress too far, because wild animals are, after all, wild.

Still though, these monkeys and I bonded. They were nothing like the super aggressive ones I encountered in India or the Philippines. Those monkeys have no fear of humans, and will even steal food or attack if they feel at all threatened…or are simply in a bad mood! Haha. No…this group, this group was different.

Being in an abandoned jungle cemetery gives them some access to humans, but not too much. They are not too comfortable…but not too afraid, either. I had found a sweet spot. Being allowed to join them, in the wild…in such a humbling and surreal location…was an experience I will never forget.

How To Get There

Bukit Brown is near MacRitchie Reservoir. You can take a bus and get off here. Then walk a few steps down Kheam Hock Road until you see the sign for the cemetery on the left. I think there may be a possibility of guided tours, but I’m not certain.

Tips: If you visit Bukit Brown, I hope you’ll be respectful in this solemn place. Please don’t feed the wildlife, and be sure to pack out all of your trash. Definitely don’t forget mosquito repellent if you’re going in the morning or late afternoon. Other than that…enjoy!

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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The post How I Was Adopted By Monkeys in Bukit Brown, a Singapore Cemetery appeared first on I Dreamed Of This.

  Words & Photos By Nathan Allen

Out the Window of a Double Decker

If you are lucky enough to get a front row seat on the upper level, you will have an elevated, panoramic view as you pass by some beautiful and historic Singapore landmarks. In the photo below you’ll find colorful Rochor Centre, which is actually scheduled for demolition sometime soon.

As you can see, up here you can sit directly behind the windshield. The driver is down below, so the view is 100% unobstructed. From this vantage point it kind of feels as if you are flying above the city streets.

Also, being up so high provides a unique perspective on everyday life in the city. As you are just on a commuter bus, you can observe the comings and goings on the streets below…and do so unnoticed.

Here you’ll find St. Andrew’s Cathedral, which is the largest in Singapore, and quite a prominent landmark.

Also note the subway commuters, as this is the City Hall MRT Station. I had to be quick to capture this picture…the trees block much of the view, and the bus passes this area quickly.

Below is the same location, but view of North Bridge Road & Peninsula Plaza (on the right).

Clean, Uncongested City Streets

Along with Tokyo, Singapore has some of the cleanest streets in Asia. However, what Singapore doesn’t have is the crowds. I remember when I first visited Singapore, I asked a local when rush hour was. They just laughed.

It is prohibitively expensive to own a car in Singapore, and in my opinion, that’s a very good thing. With hardly any traffic, Singapore is very efficient, and residents enjoy some of the best quality of life in the world.

Yes, fewer cars on the road means cleaner air…but also helping out in this department are the beautiful trees that can be found all over the city. Not only do they help to clean the air, but they shade and cool the landscape as well. When it comes to heat and humidity, Singapore, being right on the equator, could use all the help it can get.

Seriously, these stately trees are one of my favorite things about Singapore. These are even small compared to some of the giants I have seen while exploring the country. I’m so glad they incorporated all this green space into such a modern, metropolitan area. I hope to write more about this soon.

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Photos of the Bus Ride Through Chinatown

I “hovered” right through the heart of this historic district – where tradition and modernity collide.

Above you can see the base of The Pinnacle@Duxton, a 50 storey high-rise with the largest sky gardens in the world.

Below is the “Buddha Tooth Relic Temple“, which is not only incredibly striking, but also (clearly) wins the award for best named temple.

If you were wondering, yes, this photo was taken from the bus, too (you can see the window border in the upper left hand side). Hard to believe, but there really is a LOT to be seen on this route!

Church of St. Teresa – Further Down the Road

Seriously, could this bus commute get any more scenic?? St Teresa Church sits on a small, picturesque hill just beyond Chinatown.

Labrador Park MRT / Overhead Bridge

A few kilometers later I decided to get off the bus…though I do wonder what else I would have seen if I continued! Next time, I guess. I just walked around Labrador park and enjoyed the sunset before returning back to the city center.

A DIY “Commuter Tour”

So yes, if you’re ever in Singapore on a nice day, don’t hesitate to take one of these double decker buses! Sure, the SMRT train might be faster, but as you’ve seen above, you’ll miss out on a lot of colorful scenery on the way to your destination.

Again, every photo on this page was taken from a window seat on one of these buses.

(If you were wondering, these pictures were shot with a Ricoh GRII camera. It’s basically a DSLR that fits right in the palm of your hand.  You can check it out on Amazon…or if you’re in Asia, on Lazada. Using these links will find you a great deal, but also help me out…doesn’t cost you anything extra at all)

– Nathan Allen

www.idreamedofthis.com

Thanks for reading, and feel free to share!

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